Cobra (4V) Crower Stage II Camshaft Install


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front


Once you have the cams marked its time to remove the main chain and components. I did one side at a time to make everything easier. So let??s start on the passenger side.


Remove the main crank sensor gear, and the passenger side chain and main gear. Here comes a rather important step. Place vise grips onto the exhaust cam so that they are being pushed by the exhaust cam into the intake cam. Notice the vise grips in the picture. Also, you will need a small piece of flat stock steel to help in the process. Mark the relation of the cam marks with the steel plate just to make lining everything up easier. See the picture. It helps hold the cams during the removal and the reinstallation so they do not prematurely turn and mess up any valves on the cylinders or such.


vise


Before you put the steel on the front of the cams have someone hold the vise grips so the cams don??t turn while you compress the secondary chain tensioner with a large c-clamp. Remove the secondary chain and tensioner. If you remove the gears with the chain and keep them inside the chain, it is a lot easier to line them up when re-installing. Now put the plate back onto the front of the cams and tighten them down with an impact. Just make sure you don’t allow anything to turn during this process. If the cams move, which they will want to do due to spring tension, it can cause major problems with the valve train. With the plate snugged down, and the vice grips holding the cams against each other go ahead and start removing the main camshaft plates. VERY IMPORTANT- Only turn each bolt on the plates about ? of a turn since there is going to be unsprung spring tension pushing against the cams.


If you back out each bolt evenly you will not break any main caps. I just went from front to back starting on the top row. Once all are loose remove the caps keeping them in order and all the bolts in the same holes you are ready to remove the cams.


With the new cams on the floor, lay them next to the removed cams and make sure you mark them exactly as the factory cams that you painted the stripes on. Now tighten the steel plate to the new cams with their bolts. The new cams were marked right and left side Intake/Exhaust so its idiot proof. Make sure the plate marks like up with the cam marks that you painted. This is the most important part of the process is making sure the cams line up the exact same way you pulled them off.


Now re-install the cams making sure you tighten them down ? of a turn to inch pounds. In order to hold them like the factory cams the Crower’s offer a forged section that allows for a wrench. So we used a crescent wrench to hold the cams in alignment until we could put the main timing chain back on with tension.


wrenched


As you can see the wrench is being pressed against the wood next to the intake by the tension of the intake cam wanting to turn from the spring pressure. The front tensioner is re-installed and you can see the yellow pain mark on the cam for alignment. Now to the driver’s side. You will do basically the same thing up to the re-installation of the new cams. The driver’s side will need two wrenches one on each cam and a spare set of hands holding them until you have all the chains back on and the tensioners back on also. After you install and allow the driver’s side chains and the tensioners to retighten go ahead and re-assemble the passenger side.


Make sure when you tighten the cams and everything nothing turns and make sure the painted marks match up. When you go to torque the main cam bolts, have someone hold the cams in place so they do not turn while you torque them to. This is very crucial. Once everything is in alignment, release the drill bits in the main tensioners and re-assemble. Be sure that before you fire the car up, to turn the assembly by hand on the crank bolt a few times to make sure nothing binds up. Once you fire the car up you will hear some tapping but it should go away within a min or so. It does that because the tensioners have been compressed and all the oil is out of them.

They just need to refill with oil pressure. If you have any questions about this, feel free to contact me anytime.


You can find more pictures here:


http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=477028&goto=newpost

Categories: Mustang Tech

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