S197 Ford Mustang PMP Line Lock Kit Install

Filed Under: Mustang Tech

S197 Ford Mustang PMP Line Lock Kit Install25 Feb

S197 Ford Mustang PMP Line Lock installation Continuing to provide race tech for the S197 Ford Mustang in our illustrated write-up series, the StangNet crew hopes that every late model Ford Mustang drag fan can enjoy our contributions. In this latest installation, StangNet Staff member DarkFireGT shows us how to eat up some rubber while avoiding a thrashing on the rear brakes. A PMP Line Lock kit does the trick and allows the Ford Mustang to put on a show in the driveway and heat up the rear tires at the track. Take a closer look inside, with a video and lots of hi res images available in full detail.

Continuing to provide race tech for the S197 Ford Mustang in our illustrated write-up series, the StangNet crew hopes that every late model Ford Mustang drag fan can enjoy our contributions. In this latest installation, StangNet Staff member DarkFireGT shows us how to eat up some rubber while avoiding a thrashing on the rear brakes. A PMP Line Lock kit does the trick and allows the Ford Mustang to put on a show in the driveway and heat up the rear tires at the track.

Kit Includes:

2 braided lines with straight connects
2 braided lines with straight and 90 degree connects
2 master cylinder line adapters
2 caliper line adapters
4 solenoid adapters

Tools Needed:

Power Drill (With ¼” drive socket adapter)
13/16 Socket (for wheel removal)
½ Drive Breaker Bar / ½ Drive Extensions (for wheel removal)
½ Drive Torque Wrench (for wheel installation)
¼ Drive Extensions
¼ Drive Ratchet
½” Drill bit
5/16, 10mm ¼” Drive Socket
10mm, 11mm, 13mm, 17mm open end wrenches (line wrenches if available)
(2) 7/16 open-end wrenches
1/2, 11/16 open-end wrenches
Phillips head screw driver
Body pin removal tool
Crimping Pliers (Can use regular pliers, but crimping pliers are recommended.)
Soldering Iron/solder/heat shrink tubing (Optional)

Materials Needed:

2 Stage Control Solenoids (I used Jegs Part No. 555-63000)
18 or 16 gauge primary wire (Several colors if possible/preferred)
Brake fluid
Momentary or rocker switch (depending on preference)
(3) Butt connectors (if not using solder)
(3) Ring terminals
18 or 16 gauge crimp-on disconnects
Add-A-Fuse (mini)
Self-tapping sheet metal screws
Zip ties
Teflon tape or paste

Installation times will vary depending on switch mounting location and previous experience. Expect 2-4 hours for installation.

Installation:

Step 1: Cut off 1/2 to 2/3 of one of the wires and install a ring terminal on each solenoid. Your ground will be right there, so not much wire is needed. It does not matter which wire that you choose. I chose the left wire on one, and the right wire on the other, so that I could best route the wire.

Step 2: Install solenoid adapters into both of the solenoids. Use teflon tape or paste on the fittings that are going into the solenoids. This is the only time you will use the teflon. Use a 7/16″ open-end wrench to tighten. Do not overtighten, but make sure you get a good seal. Use an 11/16″ open-end wrench to hold the solenoid in place.

Step 3: Park the car on a level surface. Chock the rear wheels. Break the lug nuts loose using your breaker bar and the 13/16″ socket. Jack the car up and support with jack stands on the K member. Leave the jack for added safety, if you prefer. Remove the wheels and set aside. You may want to lie some newspaper down, as you will have some brake fluid dripping. Here’s the stock brake setup, for reference:

Step 4: Carefully remove the ABS Sensor wire clamp from the body using a body panel pin removal tool.

Step 5: Remove the stock hard brake line from the rubber caliper hose using a 13MM wrench. Pull the hard line up and out. Then remove the bracket bolt using a 10MM wrench or socket. You can pull the hard line out of the bracket for more room to work if you like. DO NOT bend the hard line, however. Once you pull the hard line out, you’ll notice some brake fluid leaking out. This is normal. After a few minutes it will stop.

Step 6: Chose a spot to mount the solenoid. I chose to mark the spot and drill starter holes for the screws, so that I could line it up accurately. You can mount the solenoid vertical or horizontal. It is up to you. This is just the way I chose.

Step 7: Attach one of the included master cylinder adapters to the stock hard line. Tighten using an 11/16″ wrench while holding the hard line’s fitting with a 13MM wrench. Tighten all fittings to approximately 15 ft/lbs. You don’t want to overtighten them, but you want a good seal.

Step 8: Attach the caliper side adapter to the fitting on the stock rubber line using a 1/2″ wrench.

Step 9: Reattach the bracket on the rubber caliper hose to the body using the 10MM bolt. You can put your ground ring terminal on this bolt, or on your screw for the solenoid, depending on the size of your ring terminal.

Step 10: Attach one end your braided hose with straight fittings to the “in” side of the solenoid (the right side in my setup). Use a 7/16″ wrench for the fitting and a 7/16″ wrench for the hose. Attach the other end to the hard line fitting. Hold the hard line in place with an 11/16″ wrench and use a 7/16″ wrench for the hose fitting. Use the 90 degree end of the other hose to connect to the “out” side of the solenoid. Use a 7/16″ wrench to hold the fitting in place and a 7/16″ wrench for the hose. Connect the other end to the rubber caliper side hose. Use a 1/2″ wrench to hold the rubber hose adapter in place and tighten the braided hose with a 7/16″ wrench. I went a little crazy with the zip ties, but wanted to make sure to keep everything out of the way.

Step 11: Reattach the ABS line. You can either zip tie it to the solenoid, or drill a new hole and use the body pin to hold it in place.

Step 12: Remove the rear portion of the fender liner. It is held in place with four body pins. Use a Phillips screw driver to turn counter clockwise and pull the pins out. Your body pin removal tool can help for stubborn pins. There’s 2 on the top, one at the back, towards the bottom, and one in the middle. (Sorry, no pictures here.)

Step 13: Cut about 8 feet of primary wire (more or less, depending on your switch mounting position) and crimp one end to the end of the wire from the solenoid. Poke a hole in the large rubber grommet leading into the cabin. Push (or pull) your wire all the way through. Zip tire your wiring and replace the fender liner.

Repeat steps 4-13 for the other side. Both sides are exactly the same, just reverse direction.

Step 14: Chose your switch mounting location. Wherever you chose, the wiring will be similar, but your interior panel removal may differ. I chose to use the lower dash, just below the instrument cluster behind the windshield wiper control arm. PMP recommends a momentary switch for safety. I chose to use an illuminated rocker switch, because I want to be able to shift to second during my burnout. After your location is selected, dismantle your interior as needed. You’ll most likely need your body pin remover, your Phillips screw driver, and a bit of force (though not too much).

Step 15: Open the fuse panel located on the lower passenger kick panel. Install the add-a-fuse as shown. The first 5 or so fuse spots on the left are only on with the ignition. The rest are on always. I chose to go with the right side, so that the fuse box cover would fit back on. I cut a small notch in the fuse box cover, so it could go back on with the wire hanging out. I routed the wiring behind the radio. I used a flyswatter, but anything thin and rigid would work, to pull my power and passenger solenoid wire through. Route all wiring to your switch location and connect to the switch. Use a butt connector to combine the two solenoid wires together. Use a small piece of wire on the other side, connected to a crimp disconnect. Add a crimp disconnect to the ground (if used) and power. Connect all wires to the switch. If using an illuminated switch, find a ground. I found a small screw right near my switch location that I put a ring terminal on.

Step 16: Turn on ignition if using a switched power source. Test the switch. I like using an illuminated switch, because I know that the switch is working, so if the locks aren’t working, I know the switch is not the problem. When you engage the switch, you’ll hear a click come from the solenoids if they’re working. Make sure the sound is coming from both sides. Once you’ve got that working, put the interior back together.

Step 17: Bleed the brake system. Start with the passenger’s rear wheel, then the driver’s rear, then the passenger’s front, then the driver’s front. Make sure you have all air out of the line and top off the brake fluid after every wheel. I’ve also heard of people losing pressure in the brake system due to an ill fitting OEM master cylinder cap. I went around the threads on the master cylinder a couple of times before replacing the cap for the last time, to make sure I’ve got a good seal. ABS systems are very sensitive to air. While bleeding the brakes, make sure to check for any leaks and address those if needed.

Step 18: Find a suitable, off-road, location to test the line locks. Firmly depress the brake pedal and engage your switch. If using a momentary switch, keep it depressed. Release the brake pedal. At this time, only the front brakes should be locked. When you are finished, release the momentary switch (or turn the rocker switch off) and your front brakes should release.

If your line locks are not working, try the following:

Double check your grounds
Check the add-a-fuse. Make sure the fuse is not blown and the assembly is oriented properly
Make sure all lines are attached properly and there are no leaks
Double check all of your wiring

Disclaimers: Line locks are intended for off-road use only. StangNet and its staff do not condone the use of off-road products on the street. If you are unfamiliar with ABS systems or electrical wiring, do not attempt to install without a trained professional. Improper installation or use could lead to death. Install and use at your own risk.

Tags: install, line lock, pmp, s197

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S197 Ford Mustang PMP Line Lock Kit Install25 Feb

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