Once again, the well-known black S197 Ford Mustang has returned to the workshop to get some additional aftermarket appliqué from J&M. Some stainless steel brake lines, with a fantastic OEM fit, are the topic of choice this time around. Our original StangNet.com write-up (with hi res images on demand) gives a real world overview and interpretation on how to perform the stainless steel brake line installation on a 2005 Ford Mustang GT. StangNet Staff member bigcat shows us just how it’s done.
After over a year of development J&M Products is proud to the release our new direct OEM fit D.O.T. certified Teflon lined brake hoses for the S197 Ford Mustangs. These brake hose assemblies use true OEM style direct replacement non-universal fittings along with proper center support fittings.
They also are the only Teflon lined stainless hoses that also use factory style ABS wire clips instead of zip ties to achieve proper OEM factory hose routing and fitment. Expansion of stock rubber hoses causes a spongy brake pedal feel and loss of initial braking force. Installation of our Teflon-lined stainless steel hose assemblies will give your car a firmer pedal, quicker braking response, and easier brake modulation. Every hose is tested to 3000 psi to guarantee a leak free hose assembly. Best of all these are made by J&M Products right here in the USA.
– Quicker brake response.
– Better brake modulation.
– The ONLY direct OEM fit hoses available.
– Every hose is pressure tested to 3000 psi.
– Every hose is stamped with our registered
-U.S. Department of Transportation number.
Part # Description List
22530F – 05-Pres. S197 Mustang Front Brake Hose Kit ……………… $138.26
22530R – 05-Pres. S197 Mustang Rear Brake Hose Kit ………………. $103.62
22530 – 05-Pres. S197 Mustang Front Rear Brake Hose Kit ………… $229.79
The detailed installation procedure starts on the next page.
Tools needed: 10mm & 12mm line wrenches, trim removal tool, 10mm socket, & ratchet.
Additional materials needed: DOT 3 brake fluid, new banjo bolt washers (optional).
TIP: Starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and working towards the master cylinder will help speed up the bleeding process.
Step 1. Raise the vehicle to working height, and properly support it. Remove the wheels and set aside.
Step 2. Starting at the passenger side rear wheel, remove the plastic retaining clips on the brake lines. Use the trim tool to gently pry the lines from the clip. Separating the ends of the clip will allow the lines to slide out easier
Step 3. Using your 12mm line wrench, loosen the nut at the front end of the brake lines, and the banjo bolt at the caliper connection point. Using the proper line wrench will ease removal and help prevent any possible damage to the fasteners. At this point, just loosen the fasteners, but do not remove them completely
Step 4. After the fasteners are loosened, you can remove the bracket near the front brake line connection, using a 10mm socket and ratchet. It is attached to the frame rail. If you try to remove this bracket before loosening the brake line fittings, you risk damaging the hard brake lines
Step 5. Finish removing the fasteners on each connection of the brake line, and remove the brake line. Make sure to note the angle the old brake line attaches to the caliper. You will need to reinstall the new lines the same way
Step 6. The connection at the brake caliper has what is called a banjo bolt. There is a hole drilled into the side and through the middle of the bolt to allow fluid to pass. On each side of the brake line, there is a copper washer. If you opted not to purchase new washers, you will need to gently remove the washers, being very careful to not damage them. The washers need to be clean, and free from nicks, gouges, bends, etc. to ensure a good seal when you reassemble the lines. Also note that one side of the washer is smooth, and the other has grooves. When assembling the hardware to the new lines, you will need to install the washers the correct way
Step 7. Install the washers and banjo bolt onto the new stainless steel brake lines, making sure the grooved part of each washer meets the grooves on the new brake lines
Step 8. Loosely install the fasteners for the new brake line at each connection point. Make sure the connection at the caliper is reinstalled in the same orientation that it was removed. It should point down and away from the caliper
Step 9. Reinstall the clips on the brake lines, and then reinstall the bracket on the frame rail. Tighten the brake line connections
Step 10. Remove the bleeder screw cover. The bleeder screw is located on the topside of the caliper. Gently pull on it or use the trim tool to gently lift on the bottom edge while pulling away from the caliper
Bleed the brakes using your preferred method. The tried and true two-man method is shown below.
Step 11. Open the hood and clean the master cylinder top and cap. Remove the master cylinder cap. Check the fluid level and add if necessary. Reinstall the cap. NOTE: DO NOT have the engine running during this process. Bleed the brakes with the car off.
Step 12. Have your helper jump in the car and pump the brake pedal several times, and then hold the pedal down. Open the bleeder screw, and then close it again. Have your helper pump the brake pedal several more times, and hold again. Open the bleeder screw and close before the pedal hits the floor. Continue this process until no more air bubbles are present when you open the bleeder screw. Check the fluid level regularly and fill as necessary. Once the air bubbles stop, you can move to the driver side rear wheel. Repeat this process for each brake line.
Step 13. Moving to the passenger side front, remove the clips on the brake lines. Use the same process as you did for the rear clips
Step 14. Remove the 10mm bolt that attaches the brake line to the strut
Step 15. Using a line wrench, loosen the nut at the front connection, but do not remove. Remove the 10mm bolt at the bracket that attaches the brake line to the front frame rail. Finish removing the nut and pull the front connection apart
Step 16. Note the orientation the brake line connects to the caliper. Remove the banjo bolt from the caliper. The banjo bolt is at the bottom rear of the caliper. Carefully remove the copper washers from the banjo bolt using the same method as for the rear lines
Step 17. Install the banjo bolt and washers into the new stainless steel brake line, making sure the grooves in the washers match the grooves on the new lines. Step 18. Loosely install the banjo bolt to the caliper and the nut to the hard line at the front connection
Step 19. Reinstall the bracket to the frame rail, and then attach the clips to the brake lines. If you attach the bracket before connecting the brake lines, it will be very difficult to connect the lines without damaging the hard lines.
Step 20. Tighten the connections and remove the bleeder screw cover. On the front brakes, the bleeder screw is at the rear of the caliper. Use the same method as was used for the rear brake lines. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and add if necessary. Repeat the bleeding process. Once the passenger side front line is bled, move to the driver side front
Repeat the process for the driver’s side. When finished bleeding the line, bleed all the lines again in the same order-farthest from the master cylinder to the closest. This will insure that all air has been removed from the lines.
- Bleeder screw: 89lb-in.
- Brake flexible hose bracket bolts: 15lb-ft.
- Brake line fittings: 13lb-ft.