[GTPhreak]

DIY Wideband O2 Meter
http://www.diy-wb.com/info.htm

Tech articles from TurboTbird
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/techarticles.html

[GTPhreak]

FAQ Page from TurboTBird
http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQPage/FAQpage2.html

[Teen'93stang5.0]

Originally posted by Red Rocket
"Bump & Grind" article from mm&ff. about a stroked, 390 rwhp merkur. sorry, i don't know the volume date/number... i do know it was in either 2000 or 2001.

http://geocities.com/red_rocket_rt/bgpage1.html

large pics btw...

it was august 2001

[Brantley]

The other day I found an article on the Volvo DOHC head conversion:

merkurtech.com

[AdamJ]

Per4mance Fords

-2.3L Registry
-Tech Articles
-Wiring Diagrams & Reference Info
-4tek Resource

[140cilx]

RE: 2.3 N/A engine turbocharged

(Since so many people are constantly asking questions about adding turbo parts to their naturally aspirated engines, I thought I would add this thread I saved. I don't recommend it, nor would anyone, it is for informational purposes. This was an interesting post on Turboford of a guy that did add a turbo to his n/a engine and seemed to be able to debug it. I take no responsibility for this information, just passing it on. Highly interesting! -140)

Topic: I added turbo to no turbo stang, can't put more than 11psi in it?
87turbostang
posted December 24, 2001 05:42 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My question is I put a turbo,manifold,and 24lb injectors on my 87 2.3l, the car is a speed density car. The setup works good, Idle's and run's great. I just can't put more than 11psi in it, I closed the gap on the plugs, unplugged fuel cut out switch. still can't get anymore boost out of it. I think it maybe the ingnition. Getting ready to add 6AL and 2step.And 255lph pump. If anyone has any advice it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------
87 mustang notchback
2.3l, added manifold,T3 turbo, and 24lb injectors running 11psi.
5-speed
Autometer phantom boost,
fuel pressure,and Air/Fuel gauge.

Response from Randy

What exactly do you mean? You can't get more than 11# total then it stops building boost? or do you run into detonation or a bad miss at anything over 11#?

Response from Chuck W

Two things stand out:
1) 24# injectors? turbo cars had at least 30# or 35#
2) If you're using the NA block as it sets, you really don't want too much boost or you will have several parts of pistons floating around the oil pan.

Also, the T3 is factory limited to a base of 10-11 psi boost the way the wastegate and such is set. To increase it you need to either restrict or divert the signal from the turbo to the wastegate. However, becasue of the 2 things listed above I would recommend against it. Unless you WANT to blow up the motor.

Response from JONESER

What computer are you using?

Response from stinkin' Lincoln

re-read the post... he added a turbo to a non-turbo stang... speed density setup... they come with 14? lb injectors, so the 24's are a definate step in the right direction! LOL!
are you running an FMU to increase fuel pressure under boost?

as they said above, do you have any sort of bleeder on there for boost control?

Response from 87turbostang

I have a boost controller for managing boost, when I hit like 13psi, It's like it fuel cut, but have the fuel cut unplugged. And I have 24lb injectors, fuel pressure regulator , and a T3 u can pull as much as 30psi of boost had a friend that had it on his tc and he was running 27psi. And I'm running the stock puter that was in car, car is speed density.If anyone can help, please do. Thanks

-and to add, I don't lose fuel pressure when I hit higher boost, it just like it's fuel cutout , but it's not

Response from kerry t brown

Check the fuel pressure and see what is on the fuel rail. You may just be running to lean. The stock fuel pump maynot hold the pressure you need. Under boost you should have"this is a guest" atleast 35psi and should have more to really go.
Wonder what your computer is thinking
"Where the hell is all this air comeing from"
LOL Hope you keep the bottom end strong.

Response from 87turbostang

I have a fuel pressure gauge on the car, it's 36 at idle and about 50psi or so in boost, and yeah I bet the' puter is like ? a whole lot more air , where'd that come from

-and to add I have a lean/rich gauge and under boost it fully rich

Response from 2.3 max hp

someone tell me what speed a speed density setup is please? Hope you have forged pistons if your going over 10 psi.

Response from 87turbostang

speed density is there is no vain meter to regulate the air coming in. timing is at 13 and inlet tube is not sucking shut

Response from Chuck W

I got that he added a turbo to an originally NA motor. Just a guess, are the 2.3l speed-desity systems similar to the 5.0l ones that were not able to compensate for big changes in the breathing charcteristics of the motor. I would think forcing that much air in there would cause things to go a bit awry. Forrest your thoughts? Why did they add the VAM to the turbo cars? I still think the fuel system is a bit light for this application too, but he does have gauges.
I hope you don't think you're going to squeeze 27psi out of this setup like your friend. Your pistons will not handle anything close to that. Also, do you have an IC on the car? I know my XR7 which doesn't have the IC installed yet will pull out timing when it's hot and I'm running 15-16 psi boost. I won't turn it up until I get the IC on.
What about getting an turbo ECM, VAM and harness?
Chuck

Response from CaptainTurbo

Okay, Vane Air Meter sees the amount of air coming into the engine, no matter what mods you do. If you're blowing in 14 times the amount of air that the engine is used to seeing, it will know exactly the amount of air coming in because it monitors it directly. A speed density system used a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (I think) and it sorta guesses the amount of air based upon the absolute pressure. It doesn't respond to changes very well because it just doesn't have all the paramaters available for every mod to change the amount of airflow, so it's less easily adaptable to HUGE engine mods (i.e. turbo) Someone with more knowledge, please correct any mistakes in my statement or add anything I left out.

Response from None2Slow

Does the 2.3n\a blocks have knock sensors? Could it be pulling so much timing that it just feels like a loss of fuel?

Response from 87turbostang

I don't have an IC on it, I am getting ready to buy a stock tc ic for it for like $30. and try it. I know on the NA block I can't run alot of boost. I am building a turbo coupe motor for it, w/40 over forged piston's , recondition rods , and crank, and a mild cam, with alot of port work on the head and bigger valves. And 8.8 with 4.30'
s. Then I will add big boost. I have thought about going and getting the puter, harness,and vain meter from the TC that I got the turbo from. But want to try and make it work without having to do that . That's my last resort. And a NA motor does have knock sensor, but I have it unplugged. Well if anymore advice will be appreciated, and thanks for the advice guy's.

Response from Chuck W

Well, My thoughts are still that you are at the limits of what the speed-desity system can handle.

Response from 5ohsNturbos

I tend to agree with Chuck - your speed density system is at its limit. It sees all the extra air and is giving you a great big ???..computers do have an attitude you know. You may go for the last resort on the TC electronics setup until such time as you assemble a system that can handle the excess.

Response from slash

WOW!! A stock 2.3 N/A longblock, with stock cast pistons, and you threw on the turbo stuff. Pretty amazing that you haven't injured someone with piston fragments yet! Cast pistons are pretty reliable to about 6 psi, then all bets are off. Whatever you do, DO NOT let that thing detonate (clatter). That'll be all she wrote.
I tend to agree that your speed density setup is giving you the razberry! If you are building a real turbo engine, why don't you take the time now and get the correct computer, wiring, and sensors, including a VAM, and upgrade the grenade. That way, if you get probation instead of prison for killing all those innocent by-standers when that N/A motor goes to heaven , you will be READY to throw that turbo-block, forged-pistoned, big chamber headed monster in for some real fun. And as mentioned, you will need @ least 35# injectors, but they will be good to nearly 400 hp.

The stock TO3 is only effecient to about 18 psi. After that, it's scorching the air, building boost by adding heat. Even on the big motor, I wouldn't flog that squirrel any harder than 18psi, or that new motor may be gargling turbo impeller bits. Minty fresh, but hard to digest.

PS: I notice you mention a "cam". Do some homework if you haven't yet. These motors do not respond to camming like regular N/A motors. Traditional wisdom does not apply. Big cam + turbo = pissed-off owner.

Anyway, good luck with your private low-orbit project. Keep us informed . . .

*slash goes running for the bunker*

Response from Turbo II

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by slash:
WOW!! A stock 2.3 N/A longblock, with stock cast pistons, and you threw on the turbo stuff. Pretty amazing that you haven't injured someone with piston fragments yet! Cast pistons are pretty reliable to about 6 psi, then all bets are off. Whatever you do, DO NOT let that thing detonate (clatter). That'll be all she wrote....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think that's the key...no detonation
under boost. I was speaking to the owner of the shop I use for engine work, his feeling was that cast pistons are plenty strong but the problem is they are very hard (read brittle) detonation causes them to break..he said forged are much more forgiving as rather than break they simply start deteriorating when detonation happens..it's pieces of piston that causes the silver spots on your plugs if your a "plug reader" Also the reason for greater piston/wall clearances with forged.

Irregardless, running the cast ones sounds like playin with dynamite

Response from sctur601

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by slash:
[BThe stock TO3 is only effecient to about 18 psi. After that, it's scorching the air, building boost by adding heat. Even on the big motor, I wouldn't flog that squirrel any harder than 18psi, or that new motor may be gargling turbo impeller bits. Minty fresh, but hard to digest.
[/B]

18 might be the peak effeciency but 24 psi made the most HP on the dyno for my car, it was in the sweet spot. I have been running my turbo at 22psi for about 3500-4000 hard miles and the 100,000+ mile turbo still is doing fine. You pretty much need to experiment. I wouldnt go much past 18 on an IHI though.
I agree with everybody else about your computer and injectors. 24lbrs would be good up to around 200hp correct? Its not hard to pass 200hp with these turbo motors. I would atleast swap in 30-35lb and the first turbo computer and Vam you can find.

Response from TurboRay

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by 87turbostang:
I am building a turbo coupe motor for it, w/40 over forged piston's...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Did you already buy the .040-over pistons &/or bore the block? If not, I would suggest you reconsider boring it that much. It's really not gonna add much displacement, and it could hurt ring sealing due to cyl-wall instability. Just my 2-cents.

C'ya - RAY

Response from 87turbostang

I have a cam that my friend gave that does my motor work, it's only a 420 lift cam. He has had a TC that ran on stock T3 turbo, had 255 pump,Stock IC, throttle body, same cam, 40 over pistons, bigger valves, and head work and he ran the T3 at 27psi, and has had it up to 30+, but liked 27 the best. I am getting ready to build a motor for the car, he is giving me the piston's and cam. On a speed density puter there is nothing to regulate the air so the puter doesn't no if there is more air being pushed in. I think I just need to step up to the 255 pump and put on MSD box. I appreciate all of ur guy's help. I will keep u posted on when I try the pump and msd box. and when I get the new motor done. And will post a timeslip as soon as next season start's. Thanks again for the info and thoughts.

Response from RS450

This is simple.. The SD MAP sensor is not designed to see positive pressure. You will need to put a check valve inline to the MAP.
RS

Response from RS450

where is the fuel cut out switch?

Response from 87turbostang

The fuel cut out switch is located on passenger side of car right behind strut tower. I have it unplugged. RS I have been talking with a few other buddies with turbo cars and the one thinks the same as u that the map sensor is freaking out. Now with what u were saying about putting a check ball inline with the map's vacuam line. Is that what u are talking about? Please let me know so I can try it. Thanks

Response from sabbasaun

I'm don't know too much about the n/a 2.3l fords, but i believe if they have a map sensor that normally reads a vacumn, then you will need to put a check valve to prevent the map seeing any kind of boost pressure. This should keep the engine/mal light from coming on, even on obd controlled cars.
Perhaps if the map is seeing boost above 11 psi, the ecu may "cut-out" like it does on the dodge cars, even though you have the fuel cut switch unplugged. On the dodge cars, if they see above 14.7 psi, they cut-out.

Response from 87turbostang

RS And SS thanks for the advice, I am waiting for the check valve to come, it should be here on wed. then will try it. I hope it works. Thanks again and I will keep u posted on if it works or not. And ss u are right the map does run on vacaum. So will see if the check valve works. Thanks again

Response from 88lxr4ti

I'd switch 2 turbo pistons(8:1 comp.)
And my '88 came with 30# injectors stock n/a.
I didn't think so,so I had ford check on it.
They said this factory on all 2.3 n/a because of small displacement.If you don't believe take it up with them.If so 24#'s would be taking away from original.Check with the sites for the 2.3 n/a clubs.

Response from 87turbostang

Well guy's I got a vacuam check valve and installed it on the vacuam for the map and now I can add as much boost as I need. But playing it on the safe side and only running 15psi. Thanks for everyone's inpute.

Response from weiz69

very interesting readings.....now what about a 8 plug motor??can you put a turbo on it and run say 10 pounds????would that give any extra power???could you still run factory computer???these things I just got to know..

Response from Merkurblue

I would strongly recomend installing a turbo ECM (pk1,pf3, la1,2,3, ta, pc1) these are all very common turbo ecm's. plus they are readilly available. I personally have done 3 mustang turbo conversions, and they are a piece of cake. the major important items u need other than an obvious turbo block and head are: atleast 32# injectors, VAM, ECM, and TC fuel pump, a turbo fuel rail also makes somewhat of a difference. all this stuff off of an 87 or 87 TC is usually best and easier than that off a Merkur. also with the T-bird computer all u have to do is move, splice, and install a few wires into the stock harness ( strongly recommended that u have a pin-out for old and new ECM's)

Response from mysticclam

Ill double check of course but im pretty sure the NA injectors are 14# why on earth would they be larger than the 19# injectors on a 5.0?

Response from 87turbostang

I have added 24lb injectors, factory one's on car were to small.
And yes I race at Norwalk, haven't raced this car yet just got it together about a month ago. But used to race my 5.0 there. Along with other friend's cars.

Response from Jason Watts

WOW! somebody who's actually done it!
I've been thinking about doing it to my ranger, there are a few things i have issue with.
1. your car has a high compression ratio with cast pistons. They are strong but very brittle, detonation tends to destroy/fracture ring lands and or just fracture/crack pistons. NO MATTER WHAT ELSE YOU DO, THIS WILL LIMIT YOUR ABILITY TO MAKE MORE POWER.
2. Speed density is great for regular engines. Essentially if you know the the rpm you can "guess-timate" how much air is in your engine, the computer goes to a table and see how much air is at that RPM and then how much fuel is to be injected into the chamber. Works pretty good with a NA engine, but what happens when you modify the engine. As stated above, the computer goes ??? and every parameter is not correct for the engine.
If you can switch to a mass air system with correspondingly calibrated mass air meter and injectors. This will give you the EXACT amount of air into the engine and give you corresponding the correct air/fuel mixture.

3. 15psi with the stock exhaust is offering lots of back pressure, get rid of it and put something decent on it. This will give you more power and better spool up time.

4. As for your friend's car, it is a different animal all togaher. Different pistons, differen't cam, different head, different ignition, different fuel system, probably a different turbo. You've gone pretty far with what you have, I would not recommend anymore. Maybe try to get the most out of your intake, exhaust, air filter, lighten up the car, better rear gears etc.

Well now that you've done it I feel much better in doing for myself! But WOW! 15PSI!!
-Jason

Summary: SO SHOULD YOU TRY IT??? Only if you can consider your current engine temporary and are willing to replace it! Maybe it will last, maybe not. I've never found a post from "87Turbostang" following up to this work. He did visit Stangnet and Turboford quite a bit during the time he posted this info, but has been gone since (best I can tell).

[Red]

asdf

[79pace]

A lot of my info is geared towards V8 cars but a lot of it is also useful to anyone with a car so here is a link to the Tech page of my website. It has:

MPH/Gear/Shift point calculator
Dyno Program thats very acurate
Transmission Specs for almost anythhing
Piston to Valve Clearance Calculator
And some other various articles and links.

[CruzNlife1]

DO NOT BUY THE GE HIGH OUTPUT BULBS IN THE RED BOX !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THEY ARE TERRIBLE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I SEE LESS THAN BEFORE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I WILL BE GOING DOWN TO THE LOCAL RICE SHOP, THEY HAVE THESE NEW PLATINUM BULBS, MY FRIEND GOT A SET I REALLY LIKE THEM, THEY SHINE LIKE A SILVER LIGHT, EXTREMELY INTENSE

[140cilx]

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/3...%20Install.htm

[140cilx]

http://www.greensalescompany.com/Inventory%20Search.asp

1-800-543-4959

examples I've found are the 2.3T stock rings, wristpins, rubber plug in timing cover, etc.

[CruzNlife1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/Tachwiring.html

2.3L - off the PCM (powertrain control module) go to pin 4, which is a tan wire with a yellow stripe. Or, go to the ICM (ignition control module) and splice pin 12, which is a tan wire w/yellow stripe - this is the same for the 4.0L, too, except for the ICM connection, it will be pin 2 instead of 12.

I here its the same for our cars

[goland55]

Just added my homemade CAI article to my website.

http://24.91.96.177/caimerkur.shtml

Still haven't tested it so there might be some changes later on.

[Red]

'83-'86 "ET" 4 speed transmission gear ratios:

1st. - 3.98:1
2nd. - 2.14:1
3rd. - 1.42:1
4th. - 1:1
rev. - 3.99:1

[Crovax]

T-5 gear ratio's

[Crovax]

previously posted elsewhere by Vrykolakas Angel
Well the shorty header is just 4 unequal tubes meeting at the
collector. The long tube is just longer than all the others.
Equal length are usually the shorty's with equal length tubes.

I'm not sure where the Ranger header would go. It's short and
may be close to equal length's. That's one option. The other is a
longtube from a few places. That's all you have. You can look for
the Ranger header for about $20-$60 and have it bolt right up,
sans the EGR. Or go looking for a used longtube, or new one, from $80-$160. You get what you pay for.

I'm very pleased with my longtube header.

This header is available from Racer Walsh and J.C. Whitney.

[bhuff30]

I stumbled upon this and thought I would share it.
They tell you how to bolt on a turbo to your mass air 2.3 and make 10 psi of boost. Note that the ranger motor in question is the same as the 91-93 mustang 2.3 motor.

[Red]

6 cyl. engines were only available in '79-'86 fox bodies. after '86, there was no 6 cyl engine available in a mustang till '94.

so, here's the skinney on 6 cyl. four eye'd foxes...

'79: 2.8L v6 AND 3.3L I6 available, both carb'ed. both available as an option. rare 2.8 tags on the fenders - same design as the later 5.0 tags. 2.3 tags even rarer. only year for the 2.8L in a fox.

V6- 109 HP I6- 85 HP

'80-'82: 3.3L I6, carb'ed. never seen one with a manual trans.

'80 I6- up-rated to 91 HP
'81 I6- up-rated to 94 HP
'82 I6- 94 HP

'83: 3.8L V6, carb'ed. standard engine for verts. only came with an auto.

V6- 112 HP

'84-'86: 3.8L V6, CFI. only came with an auto. standard engine for verts. while the auto GT HP rating went down with CFI, the V6 increase 8 HP.

V6- 120 HP

[Aquilor]

Anybody else have a link for a cold air intake install guide for a 90 lx? the one in the first post doesn't seem to be working.

[Red]

asdf

[goland55]

Put some wiring schematics from a Merkur shop manual that were emailed to me on my site. http://24.91.96.177/merkur_docs.shtml . I should be adding more merkur docs in the future, hopefully some more schematics since they're so hard to find.

[chaka]

Find all the below at http://www.pomoforacing.com/tech/

Installing an Intank Fuel Pump In Your Ford Mustang

Chris' Tried and True 8.8 Gear Install Article

Make your own Torque-Box Reinforcement Plates

How to Rebuild the Ford T5 Manual Transmission

How To Rebuild your Ford T45 Manual Transmission

Ford Harmonic Balancer Installer Tool

Ford Rear Shock Install

Making Headstands

ALSO:

Anti-Roll Bars

http://people.ucsc.edu/~kbrandt/mustang/ARbars.shtml

[Red_LX]

Here ya go, Aguilor, that link apparently hasnt' worked for awhile (reindeer is having problems with his page).

A simple cold air intake for your 2.3L Mustang-----
A cold air intake isn't that hard to make, and after my experimentation here and there with making an intake, I've finally found a design that works great, is easy to make, and is cheap. This intake will locate the filter in the inner fenderwell, right in front of the passenger side front wheel, however it will be safe from picking up water (unless you drive through a lake or something). It needs to be noted that this exact design WILL NOT WORK on mass-air cars ('91-93). It was performed on my '90 with speed-density, so will work on any speed density car exactly as I have it written here. However, if someone with a mass-air car can figure out a way to work the mass air sensor into this design, they could submit it to this page and help out some mass-air people J
What you will need to make this intake:

- A 5 foot long piece of 3" PVC pipe (white or black, your choice, the white is cheaper)
- One 3", 45* "street" elbow fitting with a flange at one end
- A flexible rubber coupling for this elbow
- One 3", 90* elbow fitting with flanges on both ends
- A K&N cone filter with a 3.5" flange (Jeg's part no. 599-RU-3130)
- PVC glue or super glue and some 3.5" hose clamps
- Some sort of insulation to cover the PVC in the engine bay; I used Thermo-Tec thermo shield tape (Summit part no. THE-14002) but you probably could use something like a Thermo-Tec Cool-It Mat (Part no. THE-14100)
- Note: If you have access to a garage, a floor jack, and some jack stands, it can make some parts of this installation MUCH easier. Later in the installation, when you need to test fit the pipe inside the fenderwell, having the car elevated makes it a lot easier to get the pipe up inside the fenderwell.

To get started, first you have to remove the old intake hose and airbox. This is easy to do, loosen the clamp closest to the intake pipe itself (not the clamp on the TB) and one of the clamps on the rubber boot on the airbox and pull the intake pipe free. Then, pull out the airbox after removing the bolts holding it down. You will notice now that there are three hoses connected to the airbox- two on top and one on the bottom. First, find the one on top that goes all the way back to the firewall (vacuum hose). Pull it off the airbox and tuck the end down by the inner fenderwell. Next, pull off the hose that runs between the airbox and the exhaust manifold heat shield. You can pull this hose off the heat shield too, if you want.

Now you're ready to start on the intake. First, measure off a piece of the PVC to approximately 15" long. (Note- when cutting this pipe, be sure to clean off all the plastic shavings before final installation onto the car. You don't want that stuff in your engine!) Cut this off, and slide the 45* degree fitting on the end of the pipe, making sure they are connected firmly. Test fit this in the engine bay and make sure it fits properly-the end of the pipe slips inside the rubber boot on the TB, and the 45* fitting needs to be aligned with the round hole in the inner fenderwell (right behind where the airbox was). Once you are satisfied that everything is the right length, get the rubber coupling. Loosen and remove the clamps and take out the tin piece wrapped around the rubber (if there is one). Slip the coupling onto the end of the fitting and make sure it's on as far as it will go, then make any necessary adjustments to the length of the main pipe so that the end of the coupling is flush with the round hole. Now, you can work on the rest of the intake. You'll need to cut two pieces of pipe-one about 4" long and another about 13". The purpose of the 4" piece is to go through the round hole in the firewall and connect the 45* and 90* fitting. The piece may need to be longer or shorter; I couldn't measure it exactly due to me forgetting to take measurements as I was building the intake. Fit the 13" piece and the 90* elbow together firmly, then slip the 4" piece in the other end of the fitting and push it in until it's snug. Test fit this by slipping it inside the fenderwell through the bottom (right in the corner, between the bottom of the front bumper and the plastic inner fender lining. If there isn't enough room to slip it up in, you'll need to trim away some of the plastic at the very front of the lining. Don't cut away too much, though, or you won't have anything to support the filter and you'll run a greater risk of water getting in the filter). Make sure you can get the end of the 4" piece through the round hole and slip it into the rubber coupling (it's kinda tough), and make sure there is a sufficient length of the pipe inside the coupling that it can be held in securely with the clamps. If everything fits good, then pull the pipe back out of the fenderwell and slip the filter on the end (don't tighten the clamp), and put it back up into the fenderwell to check the fit of things with the filter on the end. You may want to trim some off the end of the pipe so that there isn't so much of it inside the filter. If it looks like everything fits good, you're ready to move onto the final fitment.

To install the insulation, it will go one of two ways. If you use the mat, you should probably wait until the intake is completely installed, and then simply wrap the mat around any part of the intake that's inside the engine bay (including the rubber boot on the TB) and then secure it with two or three hose clamps or metal ties. If you use the tape, first remove the pipe from the engine bay, pull it apart, and remove the coupling from the fitting. If you wish to paint the fitting, now's the time to do it (you won't be able to see the pipe under the insulation). I painted mine black. Before painting, you'll probably want to thoroughly clean off the fitting with mineral spirits or else the paint won't stick too well; then you just use standard painting techniques. You should also clean the pipe with the solvent to aid adhesion of the tape. Once everything's dried sufficiently and the paint on the fitting is cured, connect the pipe and fitting again. When they are firmly and properly connected, put some super glue around the outside of the flange, where the pipe goes in (I used super glue and not PVC glue, so if you have some of that, read the package as to how you use it exactly). Applying the tape is easy, but the paper backing on the tape can be a pain in the butt. What I did was pull off fairly long sections of the tape, pull off the backing, and cut it off. Wrap the tape around the pipe, and wrap it towards the other end of the pipe (don't overlap the wraps). Once you wrap to the other end, wrap it back and be sure to cover any bare spots, and make sure you have insulation over the whole pipe, including the part inside the rubber boot on the TB (this was the part that softened and deformed on mine because I neglected to cover it). There should be plenty to cover the whole pipe as the roll is 15' long.
Now put the pipe back together, tighten the clamp on the rubber coupling on the fitting, and reinstall into the engine bay but don't tighten the clamp on the rubber boot. Before putting the other pipe back into the fenderwell, put some superglue around the flanges on the fitting to secure the pipes and make sure they won't come apart. Also make sure the clamp on the filter is facing toward the middle of the car so that you can tighten it down once you get the pipe inside the fenderwell. Slip the pipe back inside the fenderwell, and make sure the pipe is pointing as straight down as possible. Put the rubber coupling onto the end of the pipe once you get it through the hole, and tighten the clamp firmly so the pipe won't fall out. Then tighten the clamp on the boot on the TB. Now, reach up into the fenderwell and pull the filter down until it is against the plastic fender lining. Wedge it in tightly and hold it there while you tighten the clamp on the filter (you may have to use a "stubby" screwdriver and it is a little tough to get your arm in there). Once that's tightened down, voila, you're done. It's a good idea to check everything and make sure everything is good and tight, because you don't want this coming apart on you while you're driving.

Now you can go out and enjoy your new cold-air intake. You can feel the power increase, plus it makes your intake sound cool (if you have stock exhaust on your car, you can hear the intake outside the car). Total cost of this project is about $60, much cheaper than buying an intake from someone like KKM, plus this intake is insulated, which the KKM's are not. Only disadvantage is that this intake is not as pleasing to the eye (but who really cares about that, right?).

A couple notes: When the K&N is due for servicing, it can be easily removed for cleaning by loosening the clamp on the filter and sliding it up the pipe, then loosening the rubber coupling in the engine bay and removing the whole pipe from inside the fender well. Reinstallation is just a reverse of that. It's also a good idea to buy a K&N filter cleaning kit when you buy the filter, and follow the instructions on the box. I wouldn't recommend cleaning the filter any other way, as you are just more likely to damage the filter or wear it out before its time. Also, as I stated, this intake should be fine driving in rain, as there is really nothing to throw water up into it or anything. However, it would probably be a good idea to avoid large puddles or other such standing water because this COULD get in.

So there ya go, good luck and happy motoring!

[Red_LX]

Thought I'd add this....

Here's an easy way to add a fuel pressure gauge mounted directly on your fuel rail. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, it will make adjusting the fuel pressure much easier.

Parts you need, from Summit:

Fuel pressure gauge SUM-800160 (1 1/2" liquid filled gauge)
Adapter ATM-3280

This is a pretty easy job, really. First, get a 9mm deep socket and remove the schrader valve from the fuel rail. If you don't have a deep socket, you can use a regular wrench, but it takes forever. After you get it out, you have two options: You can either screw the gauge into the adapter, screw the whole assembly into the fuel rail, and tighten it with a wrench, or you can put in the adapter and tighten it with a socket, and then screw in the gauge. Honestly, I did it the first way, and I don't know which is easier (they're probably both about as hard as there isn't much room to work). Regardless, you need to put some pipe sealant on the threads of the adapter, and you will need a 9/16" wrench or socket to tighten it. Anyway that's about all there is to it...just make sure you tighten everything down good or it will leak fuel around the adapter!

[Stinger]

Turbo guys would be best off getting the summit 0-100psi fuel pressure gauge # SUM-800199 with the adapter RED_LX listed above.

Stinger