[mustanglover32]

HANDS DOWN BEST DAMN SITE FOR TURBOCOUPE, SVO, MERK, XR..... INFO COVERS EVERYTHING, INCLUDES ALL OPTIONS


http://www.angelfire.com/wa3/fastest4d/faq.html

[Stinger]

Pictures showing how to hook up all the coolant lines and oil lines on your turbo as well as how to hook up your bypass valve can be found here:

http://forums.stangnet.net/showthrea...hreadid=241996

Stinger

[goland55]

2.3 DP DIS Turbo group

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ford23t-dp/

Discussion group on EEC Tuners

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/EECTuner/

[CruzNlife1]

HERE IS THE WIRING KEY.... THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO PREMIUM SOUND SYSTEMS THOUGH

http://installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.pdf

[Stinger]

Here is the cheapest source out there for rebuilt T3 turbo cartridges...it comes with the turbine and compressor wheel, backing plates, center section, and a housing gasket assembled and micro-balanced...all for 115 bucks...I've been using one for quite a while now and it works great.

Call 1 800 331 0616 and ask for Bev. The shop is located in Alabama I believe.

Stinger

[Brantley]

Rear control arm bolt sizes are as follows:

81mm long, 12mm X 1.75 pitch
103mm long, 12mm X 1.75pitch

You need 4 of each if you are going to replace the control arm bolts.

[goland55]

Lots of injector specs

http://www.geocities.com/ttskipp/injector.html

[mustanglover32]

Detonation,
The knocking sounds you hear are the cylinder walls set into oscillation by intense pressure waves, caused by abnormal combustion. Normal combustion is a controlled burn that starts from the spark plug and spreads outward, causing a pressure rise in the combustion chamber. This pressure is then converted into torque on the crankshaft. Ideally, the peak pressures will occur about ten to fifteen degrees after top dead center (TDC), as the piston is on its way down.

Detonation is a form of abnormal combustion that starts off right, but at the last millisecond, something goes wrong. The remaining air-fuel mixture, called the "end gas", explodes all at once, instead of burning in a controlled way. Resultant engine damage is caused by an instantaneous pressure rise that can excede 1500 psi. This is more than double the normal peak combustion pressure, and will blow head gaskets, break piston ring lands and hammer the rod bearings. Another form of damage seen is that the tops of the pistons will be eroded and can even melt.

High octane fuels are resistant to detonation because they contain compounds that slow down the chemical chain reaction we call combustion. If left unchecked, these chain reactions would quickly escalate, resulting in increasing damage to the piston and other engine components. All fuels, regardless of octane, have a knock limit. This is reached when the temperature of the "end gas" reaches an autoignition point. Combustion chamber designers use high swirl inlets and large "quench areas" to fight this "autoignition" problem. There are other factors beyond these mechanical design features which influence "end gas" temperatures. Some of these are: (1) Intake charge temperature, (2) Coolant temperature, (3) Compression Ratio, (4) Boost pressure, (5) Spark timing, (6) Air-fuel ratio, and (6) Humidity.

An increase in compression ratio, boost pressure, or spark timing will increase peak cylinder pressure, which in turn raises the "end gas" temperature. Higher inlet and coolant temperatures also increase the "end gas" temperature. Richer mixtures can be used to cool the charge. At some point beyond about 10:1, however, will again increase the tendency to detonate. A decrease in humidity will also tend to increase detonation.

Preignition,
Preignition and detonation are two separate and distinct events. It was first pointed out as far back as 1906 that the two phenomena were not only quite distinct but were in fact not related to each other. In the first place, preignition in itself does not produce an audible "knock" and if it is audible at all it could be described as a "dull thud". Because preignition is frequently brought about as a result of persistent detonation, the distinct "knock or ping" of the latter came quite erroneously to be associated with it.

It is by no means uncommon for preignition, or in this case it would be more correct to describe it as autoignition, to occur at the same phase as the timed spark. In this case the ignition can be switched off, and the engine could continue to run perfectly steadily without the slightest observable change in performance, sound, or any other characteristic. The danger, however, lies in the fact that all control of timing can be lost and ignition may creep in earlier in the cycle.

The danger of preignition lies not so much in the development of high pressures but rather in the very great increase in heat flow to the piston and cylinder walls when the ignition occurs too early in the cycle. This increase in heat flow, in turn, raises still further the temperature of the hot spot or surface which is causing the preignition resulting in even earlier ignition. At some point the temperatures are elevated to the point where the incoming charge is ignited, causing backfiring in the inlet tract. The belief, still widely held, that preignition can give rise to dangerously high cylinder pressures is totally false. Under no circumstances is the peak pressure resulting from preignition appreciably higher than from a spark-initiated ignition and, in both cases, the peak is reached when the maximum pressure is attained at or just after top dead center, that is to say, about 10 degrees earlier than the normal optimum. As the time of ignition is further advanced by either advancing the time of the spark or by earlier preignition, the maximum cylinder pressure falls again due to the excessive heat loss, for the piston is then compressing gas at or about its maximum temperature, and the intensity of heat flow is increased many times. The danger lies not in the production of excessive pressures but of excessive heat fow. The intense heat flow in the affected cylinder can result in piston seizure followed by the breaking-up of the piston with catastrophic results to the whole engine.

In nine cases out of ten, preignition is initiated by overheating of the sparkplug electrodes or some sharp point or edge that has gone "critical". We are accustomed these days to focus all our attention on the subject of detonation for it is the limiting factor controlling the performance of a spark-ignition engine. We are apt to forget that the real danger is that it leads on to preignition. In itself, detonation is not dangerous... It is the preignition it gives rise to that can so easily wreck an engine.

later,
david

[svowannabe]

This post is for anyone who wants to know the basics of how a turbo functions. These links contain information on turbos, waste gates, intercoolers and the like. Athough they are somewhat simple, they are good for new comers and those who are just interested.

This first link contains a bit more information than the second one but both are informative.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm



http://auto.howstuffworks.com/frame...ternational.com

Hope these were helpfull.

[351wcoupe]

I've heard a few people talk about their intercooler hoses coming off. This happened to me a bunch in the SVO and the main suggestion has been to find a radiator hose that works. Problem is that there are 2500+ hoses to look at.
If anybody needs them, I found the perfect hose that works awesome.
In autozone part #L-395
One end is pretty large and the hose has the perfect size flange in the middle to make the upper and lower hose.
Hope this helps.

[SVO1]

Basic overview of what you need ot swap a Turbo engine in an 87-90 2.3 car when using an 87-8 thunderbird ECU

In all honesty you have one wire that you have to run (if using the 87-8 TC ecu)
Cut the connector off of the EGR position solenoid, as the turbo ecu does not use it. The wires at the sol are an exact match for the VAM of the turbo car (pin 26,46,27)
and the wire you have to add is pin 43 (also for the vam)
Then at the ecu remove pin52 (egr)
and cut pin # 24 about 4" from the ecu, and then "t" the wire into pin #46 (sig return)-this will lock the ecu in premium fuel mode.
Also use the Mustang injector harness, as this has the o2 sesnor ground in it.

[2conLX]

I found this site while surfing for turbocharger websites

http://www.wilkinsondiesel.com

From their main page scroll down and click on Diesel Troubleshooting guide.

The center column has an image of a turbo, click on the image and it'll take you to the turbocharger troubleshooting guide.

The site is meant for Diesel engines but a turbo is a turbo is a turbo no matter what engine it's on.

[luna77]

Originally posted by 934Banger
Automatic to Manual transmission conversion:

http://www.westcoastfords.com/tech/t...ap/t5swap.html

Yeah, this site isn't working for me...thought I'd let ya know.

[chaka]

MAF adapter: http://therangerstation.com/airintake.htm

[Frumious B.]

5.0L

http://www.racesystems.com/3gproj/

2.3L

http://www.montac.com/mustang/3g_upgrade.htm

Turbo

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/...r%20Install.htm

[Stinger]

For turbo applications using the big vam the filter # re-0930 is the one commonly used to replace the stock airbox.

Stinger

[Dr_EluSivE]

To determine if you need a clutch check your compressor first by turning the center bolt to see if it turns freely (with ratchet) also check to make sure you system is charged. Checking For power to the clutch is also a good idea before starting, you dont want to replace something that isnt broken check out the rest of the sytem before you assume its the A/C clutch.

--To Change--

*Special Tool Needed : Snap ring Pliers*

First you take off the belt, and the center nut on the clutch. Then use a puller and pull the clutch disc off.

Next Remove the snap ring in the center under the clutch, its a pain to get to, i reccommend using snap ring pliers. Screwdrivers dont work all that well for it. Then just pull the pully off.

After the pully has been removed you will expose the Clutch coil. There is another snap ring insde the center section of the coil. Its hard to see when its on the car but it is there. I used a mirror to Find it. Remove that snap ring. then the clutch Coil comes off.

When you reassemble use the New snap rings (i Bent the old ones) and put them in with the bevel toward the Front, they will not seat in the groove if you do not have the bevel facing the right way. After you have the coil and the pully on you must use shims (comes in the kit) to bring the clutch disc the correct distance from the pully. The annoying part about this is you must just do it by trial and error. The clutch kit should tell you the correct distance. but you must put the shims in and put the center nut back on befor you check it with feeler gauges. if it isnt right it will drag if too close, or slip if too tight. Keep removing and replacing shims behind the disc untill you get the distance right. After you get the spacing right you have to wear in the clutch by cycleing it on and off several times over a min or two. After you have done the break in check the distance again with the feeler gauges and check the center nut tightness. If they are good you are done. Enjoy your funtional air conditioner. if you have any questions just ask.

Dr.

P.S. I would NOT use a Junkyard one. Its alot of work to risk having to do it again. Plus the new ones have an Upgraded design that works better.

[Lx89Stang05]

site i found that have new parts for the t3 and t4 turbos
http://www.relentlessracing.com/turbo_parts_page.html

94-95 5.0 throttle body up-grade
http://www.mercurycapri.com/technica...23/23tltb.html

junkyard IC ratings
http://www.dohcfiero.com/intercoolerFlow.htm

[GTPhreak]

Make your own stainless steel braided brake lines (works for 5.0 upgrade, dunno about 2.3?)

For the hop from the rear axle to the rear brake calipers:
- (2) 10" rear caliper lines 63010110

For the hop from the chassis to the rear axle:
- (1) 8" rear axle lines 63010108

For the hop from the chassis to the front calipers:
- (2) 16" front capiler lines 63010116

To adapt the factory hardline fittings to -3AN fittings for the braided steel lines:
- (4) -3AN to 7/16-24 IF hard-to-flex adapt 989549 (For later front brakes (94+ I THINK,) one of these should be replaced with a -3AN to 3.8-24 inverted flare fitting.)

Factory banjos will be a little too long. Don't forget to get at least two new crush washers per banjo:
- (4) -3AN 10mm .425" banjos 997631

For the chassis fitting on the rear axle to chassis hop:
- (1) -3AN 3/8" .425" axle hop banjo 997603

For the axle end of the chassis to axle hop:
- (1) Tee, 3/8"-24 IF brass 972050

For the axle end of the chassis to axle hop:
- (1) adapter for tee, -3AN to 3/8-24 IF 581531

to order from summit, add "EAR-" before the p/n's
**Not DOT Approved, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK**
I will be using a set on my street car

[Tomato]

On Detonation and preignition....
preignition can cause detonation.
Too much spark advance causes detonation for the same reasons as preigntion

[Crovax]

How to open your car door:
1. Grab handle.
2. Pull up firmly.
3. Pull out door.
4. Enjoy.

[Slugstang]

Here is my 2.3T swap page. It covers 87 to 90 Mustangs using an 88 Turbo Coupe as the donor. I have the usual wiring diagrams but also created a vacuum diagram for those that can’t figure out what goes where. I started a pin out diagram with color codes but that’s not quite done yet. It should be within a few days though. Also have info on wiring in the EGR for people who need it for emissions and wiring instructions for using the stock Boost Controller.

www.flemworld.com = Click on Slugstang and then 85 How To’s.

Or go directly to it here = www.flemworld.com/slug/howto/8790T.html

[Jquintel]

Ok, i was poking around racer walsh's web page when i ran across some info thought you might be interested in...

http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/category...alinformation/

Back To Basics for the 2300
2300 Camshaft Specs
2300 Valve Springs

"woo To the Hoo"

[Slugstang]

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[Brantley]

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