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05-04-02, 08:28 PM
|  | Doubt I could be of much help, unless you need porn pics!! | | Join Date: August 1998 Location: Morgantown, WV...where couches meet their doom
Posts: 9,386
| |  >>>>TECH ARTICLES<<<<
OK, it finally came to me that since newbies are always asking the same questions, I might as well make a sticky thread with commonly-asked-for tech articles in it. So, I'll start it out:
This is my article on how to build a cold air intake for '87-90 EFI cars: http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost....5&postcount=52
And here is Jmanb13's article on making an intake for '91-93 cars: http://jman.stangnet.com/coldair.htm
So, everyone add your articles here (if you have any).
Last edited by Red_LX; 08-07-04 at 09:57 PM.
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05-04-02, 08:50 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: March 2002
Posts: 305
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05-04-02, 09:10 PM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: March 2000 Location: Rowlett, TEXAS
Posts: 5,510
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05-05-02, 10:05 AM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: October 1999 Location: Rahway, NJ
Posts: 4,516
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Last edited by Red; 06-13-07 at 09:06 PM.
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05-05-02, 07:34 PM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: July 2001 Location: Wilson, KS
Posts: 7,726
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Last edited by Stinger; 07-21-03 at 01:56 PM.
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05-06-02, 08:14 PM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: February 2001 Location: DFW/Austin, Texas
Posts: 812
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Everybody is alwys asking about duels, here are your part numbers:
Exhaust "Y" Pipe:
Ford: E4ZZ-5246-A
Walker replacement: 43982
Exhaust Pipes:
Left: Dynomax 45060
Right: Dynomax 45059 |
05-06-02, 10:00 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: July 2001 Location: Wilson, KS
Posts: 7,726
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I just sent this PM to slow88, he asked me to tell him all I knew about a turbo, tranny and rearend swap out of an 86 TC into his 88 Mustang. It's pretty universal for the most part, only minor things need to be changed depending on the years of the vehicles. Maybe at least parts of it could be used:
OK, I don't know your full intentions in terms of where you want your engine to end up. If you plan on leaving it mostly stock then don't listen to what I'm about to say except for the intercooler part. If you plan to modify your turbo engine by turning up the boost, adding an intercooler, adding a 3" downpipe etc. then listen up. Since you have an 86, you already have the good 35 lb/hour injectors. These are good for about 300 hp. If you plan to add an intercooler, front mount or SVO/Turbo Coupe style, then you will need an LA series or SVO computer. The LA2 (87 TC) and LA3 (88 TC) are the easiest to find and are also the best. They can be bought at turboford for 50-75 bucks. There are tons of intercooler options: saab, volvo, Isuzu, NPR, Sprearco, Mitsu, probe, as well as the SVO and Turbo Coupe style. The front mount are more efficient. I don't know what you mean by saying front mount ones tear up your intake. All they do is mount in front of the radiator, the inlet hooks up to the turbo and the outlet hooks up to the stock throttle body intake. I've yet to figure out if you can use the SVO/Turbo Coupe ones will work without an SVO or Turbo Coupe hood scoop. Here is a link for the front mount IC swap: http://www.rothfam.com/svo/volvo/index.html
I don't really know the wiring information by heart. I do know that you only have to change about 12 wires since you have an 88. If you decide to go with the 88 TC computer you will need to add wires for the ACT Sensor. Here is a link to the wiring information:
88-90 Mustang wiring: http://www.nettally.com/silly34/8890.htm
86 TC Wiring: http://www2.rothfam.com/techboard/r...ce/86SVO-TC.pdf
87-88 TC Wiring: http://www2.rothfam.com/techboard/r...87TC-merkur.pdf
As for the tranny. I don't know if you have a 5-speed or an auto or if the TC has a 5-speed or auto. If you have a 5-speed and the TC has a 5 speed, the swap is extremely easy, you can either leave your tranny in place or swap in the TC one with your bell housing and clutch. I would suggest using your current 5-speed. If you and the TC have autos then it will also be a pretty self explanatory swap. If you have a 5-speed and want to use an auto, you are crazy, use the 5-speed! If you have an auto and want to use the 5-speed then here is a link on how to do it: http://www.project-horsepower.dreams...com/howto.html
As for the rear end. It is a pretty straight forward swap. All of the mounts should line up with your car. All the control arms and such are interchangeable. I believe you have to use the TC brake hoses and lines at the rear of the car. The only thing you have to remember is that the TC rear is 1.5" wider than your rear end. If you are running the stock wheels this isn't a problem, it will actually look cooler. If your current wheels drag or are close to dragging on your fenders, you will need to get different wheels. I thought I had a link for the rear end swap but I guess not.
Remember, I've learned 90% of this information from reading stuff online. The internet is a great source for all of this. Also notice that I used the www.rothfam.com website for 3 of the links. This means there is also other information that may benefit you there as well so check it out.
Stinger
Last edited by Stinger; 09-13-02 at 12:18 PM.
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05-07-02, 08:41 AM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: September 2001 Location: GA
Posts: 2,382
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05-07-02, 09:32 AM
| | Doubt I could be of much help, unless you need porn pics!! | | Join Date: August 1998 Location: Morgantown, WV...where couches meet their doom
Posts: 9,386
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05-08-02, 10:30 PM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: January 2002 Location: Brunswick, OH
Posts: 1,955
| | | Intercooler Selection guide
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05-09-02, 11:28 AM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: September 2001 Location: GA
Posts: 2,382
| | | How to remove your EGR
so Red, where are you gonna put all this and what are you gonna call it?
Here's an EGR Removal walk thru (initially for '87-90's but with info for '91-93's:
I have disconnected the EGR pipe on the original exhaust manifold, unplugged the vacuum lines that ran to the valve body of the EGR and plugged them. And then took out the two bolts that mount it at the top to the throttle body.
Then - and some may gasp at this, I took the 2 bolt flange (part of the EGR) that mounts to the throttle body and sawed it off with a hacksaw from the main EGR body. Then I remounted it back to the throttle body but turned it upside down so that the porthole for the EGR was capped. You'll see when you take it off that the EGR hole is not centered. It's on one end, I believe the bottom end, so if you flip that mounting flange over and put some gasket sealer on it, you've essenstially sealed off the EGR intake. Very simple.
*on the 91-93's they use a different computer, I recommend you cap it by some other means temporarily so as not to destroy the EGR mount - I say this because perhaps the new computer these use may miss the EGR - BUT I HIGHLY DOUBT IT, just a precaution. If your "check engine light" doesn't come on in a day or so, you're fine and you can permanently cap it.
BTW I've seen some very black cruddy coated intakes from EGR's. Also, a lot of people find out their EGR was already plugged anyway and not working for some time. Some run and idle smoother without the EGR due to it being stuck open from carbon buildup, etc. |
05-09-02, 11:42 AM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: February 2000 Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,335
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For the record, you will need a 5/8 inch flare cap to cap off the EGR on the Ranger Manifold. |
05-15-02, 06:02 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: July 2001 Location: Wilson, KS
Posts: 7,726
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05-16-02, 12:03 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: February 2000 Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,335
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05-29-02, 12:26 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: October 1999 Location: Rahway, NJ
Posts: 4,516
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power steering rack limiter bushings (for wider tires i.e. 10 holes, turbines etc. w/ 225/60/15's +):
one pkg of 4 pcs
N804842-S
washers
ax 26
Q29AA w/o 269469 |
06-27-02, 09:53 AM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: September 1999 Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,046
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- sorry, I dont think I have a link to this anymore, but here is the write-up that I did.
Installing under drive pulleys ./
The pulleys that I installed are from Racer Walsh, but they are also available from other companies. A smaller diameter crank pulley and a larger diameter alternator pulley are used. Both pulleys are made of aluminum. The water pump pulley is not changed. For this install, I am assuming that the person installing does not have an impact wrench. If you do the install will be much easier and quicker, and many steps can be left out.
1. Loosen the bolt holding the crank pulley
a. Put the car in gear, set the parking break, and have a buddy sit in the car and hold down on the breaks really hard (if you don't the crank will turn and the car may move).
b. Using a breaker bar and socket wrench loosen the bolt holding the crank pulley. It may take several tries to break the bolt loose.
2. Remove the belt
a. Using the breaker bar and a socket wrench, move the belt tensioner to relieve tension from the belt, and remove the belt.
3. Remove the crank pulley
a. Remove the bolt you loosened previously
b. Wiggle the pulley back and forth and it should come right off
4. Install the new crank pulley
a. Line up the groove in the pulley with the notch on the crank and wiggle it on.
b. Insert the bolt and hand tighten.
5. Remove the alternator
a. Remove the two bolts holding the alternator, remove the wiring harnesses, and remove the alternator.
b. Take the alternator and the new pulley into an Advance Auto Parts Store, or a similar store, and they should be able to change the pulleys for you for free (if not, find someone with an impact wrench, because that's the only way to get the pulley off).
6. Reinstall the alternator
a. This is done the opposite of removal.
7. Put the belt back on
a. Again, opposite of removal
8. With the belt back on, have your buddy sit in the car and hold the breaks again, and tighten the bolt holding the crank pulley as tight as you can get it.
9. Check the space between the belt and the alternator bolt. On mine, I had to rotate the bolt head just a bit so that it would not rub on the belt (see picture).
10. You are done! Go for a ride and see what you think. |
06-28-02, 02:31 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: September 2001 Location: GA
Posts: 2,382
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07-09-02, 07:51 PM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: PA
Posts: 264
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heres the horsepower for some 2.3 powered cars...correct me if i get any wrong. i can add more if you guys tell me them. just pm it.
83-84 Turbo GT - 140hp
84-85 SVO - 175hp
85.5 SVO - 205hp
86 SVO - 200hp
83-86Turbocoupes- 140hp
87-88 Turbocoupes - 190hp
(87-88 Turbocoupes auto - 155hp)
Merkur - 175hp
87-90 Mustang - 88hp
91-93 Mustang - 105hp |
07-12-02, 05:44 PM
|  | Stanger | | Join Date: August 2000 Location: Rockledge, FL
Posts: 2,703
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Not exactly the same as what has been posted...but here is a scan of some information from Project White Trash from MM&FF showing the 1/4 times of each modifcations up to the 302 install.  |
07-15-02, 10:24 PM
|  | Type O Danzigative the Dark Lord of All Dark Things in the Dark of Darkness | | Join Date: September 2000 Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 5,082
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And the Ford Mototrsport aluminum driveshaft fits 2.3 's T-5 and
7.5 rear. I believe the part number is 4602. |
07-16-02, 06:42 AM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: February 2002 Location: New Bedford, MA
Posts: 2,847
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07-17-02, 02:52 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: October 1999 Location: Rahway, NJ
Posts: 4,516
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Last edited by Red; 06-13-07 at 09:07 PM.
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07-21-02, 05:30 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: October 1999 Location: Rahway, NJ
Posts: 4,516
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07-24-02, 08:24 AM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: September 2001 Location: GA
Posts: 2,382
| | | Head Gasket Replacement
The best quick headgasket replacement for 2.3's by SVO1:
I Drained the radiator ( but did not remove it) pulled the fan out of the way, pulled the cover and dropped the timing belt.. I then unbolted the exhaust manifold ( left it bolted to the turbo/downpipe and I wired it up for a little support) Yanked the throttle body/upper intake. I then pulled the Valve cover, Head bolts, Unhooked the Sensors under the intake/fuel lines, and the oil feed line to turbo..
I popped the head loose with a couple small taps from my deadblow, then being able to use the intake for a bit of leverage hoisted it out on my own.. I always worry about TDC etc when I install the timing belt.. I put it back together that way I took it apart. I did re-use the headbolts, and My ford Shop manual had a Chart for re-using them ( typically twice) and it is back and running fine..
from SVO1 (04/23/02) |
07-24-02, 08:26 AM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: September 2001 Location: GA
Posts: 2,382
| | | Oil Pan Removal (with engine still in car)
To remove the oil pan "in-chassis", follow these steps:
1. Raise the car and place it on jack stands.
2. Drain the oil (seems obvious, but I've seen people forget and they're soooo embarrassed when they get soaked).
3. Remove the motor-mount nuts and raise the motor as high as you can - support it under the crank pulley with a stand and a block of wood (might wanna take the trigger wire off the solenoid so you don't accidentally bump the starter and drop the motor).
4. Disconnect the strg. shaft from the rack and pinion at the "rag" joint and tap it upward and out of the way (it's telescopic to prevent you from being impaled).
5. Take all 8 bolts out that attach the front crossmember to the "frame" (it won't fall - trust me). The bolts have a torx head, but you can use a standard 6-point socket.
6. Remove the four bolts holding the anti-sway bar brkts to the frame and let the bar hang.
7. Drive a wooden wedge between the rear of the crossmember and one side of the frame (this will not only lower it, as it compresses the susp springs which is what's holding it up, but it will usually slide forward as well.
8. Remove the starter.
9. Drop the pan down low enough to disconnect the oil pump from the block, allowing it to drop in the pan (you'll need an 8mm 12-pt socket for the pump body and a 14mm for the pickup support.
10. Slide the pan out the back (assuming it didn't already fall on yer head, lol).
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