[abouttobeglue]

SINGLE CHAMBER FLOWS first mod best sound with the stock h pipe out there
STEEDA TRIAX well worth the money
ROUSH CLASSIC SHIFTER HANDLE expensive, but love the look and feel
MAC STRAIGHT SHOT no difference in hp, lost 2mpg
PYPES CATTED X good sotp difference, sounded like ass with one chambers
SPINTECH PROSTREETS good sound with x pipe, slight sotp difference
MACPROCHAMBER great sound noticeable gains
STEEDA SPORT SPRINGS lowers the car perfect, no bottoming out
BULLIT SEATS hella lot more better than stock seats retro look

[nf9648]

Heres what I need to know, what people are doing to maximize the performance of their NPI engine with a blower. What combination of heads, cams, intake manifold did you use with your blower, a PI engine swap isnt going to be feasible, nor will replacing the NPI pistons to make it easier to use PI heads (recompensate for the bump in compression)...

[twogts4us]

K&N Filter - 4" universal
C&L TrueFlow Inlet Pipe - mostly for looks, as good as any other at getting air in the motor.
Ported and Polished 2002 Plenum - from my 2002 GT when I added the Accufab pieces to it, this was sitting around, begging to be ground on. Spent way to long on this project, but it was fun and it seems to have freed up a couple HP along with the...
1/2 inch Intake spacer - along with the ported elbow, this gets near what an aftermarket setup would gain.
180 Thermostat - replaced on 10/01/05 after an overheating episode...and found the 4V 180 stat in the manifold. (Stupid former owner) Hopefully, this problem is now gone.
MAC catted H - the standard and works perfectly with...
Flowmaster 40 series mufflers - welded in. Car is now sporting the OEM 'catback' exhaust from my 02, as it originally had dumps and grew tired of it.
Steeda Tri-Ax - the simpliest, easiest upgrade you could possibly do - makes shifting a pleasure. This replaced the Blue Thunder shifter, which I thought was the problem with shifting this beast. Later, we've found the T-45 just sucks compared to the precision feel of the TR-3650, and this T-45 has likely seen it's better days. It still pops out of reverse on a regular basis, but shifting smoothness was helped with Mobil 1 ATF. The Blue Thunder, a quality shifter itself, was sold on EBay.
FRPP 4.10 gears - the best mod, hands down.
Diablo chip - despite it's age (it's a old "I'm two horny" chip, if you remember those) makes good power.
1995 Cobra rims - 17X9, classic look, riding on Bridgestone Potenza RE-750 - awesome tires, wet or dry.
Tint - everywhere! 3% on all windows, custom (DIY) static cling smoke tint on the taillights, 3rd brake light, side markers.
Bullitt pedals - bitch to put on, but love the look and feel.
Billet headlight switch - simple little mod (well, as soon as you can get the OEM switch off!)
Steeda quadrant, clutch cable, firewall adjuster - standard stuff to do when adding....
Ford King Cobra Clutch - to replace the POS Spec Stage 2. Works great, cheap, very grippy.

[twogts4us]

Flowmaster American Thunder Catback - classic sound, love it, works great with...
MRT catted H pipe - quality stainless steel from Scott Hoag, former King of the Bullitt program for Ford.
Pro-5.0 shifter - simply the best shifter...now using the OEM knob as it is the quietest and most comfortable. Originally had added a Black FatKnob.
SCT chip - another chip, gains a few horsepower, but mainly purchased for correction of the...
FRPP 3.73 gears - wish I'd have listen to my heart and gone with 4.10s.
Mach 1 chin spoiler, grill delete - purchased both from Randy Stinchcomb, Liberty Ford, also on these boards, runs the Part Dept forum on www.modulardepot.com. Great guy, awesome serivce.
Tint - everywhere! 3% on all windows, FordPower.net tint for the taillights, static cling smoke tint on the 3rd brake light, side markers and fog lights.
Accufab plenum and Accufab 70mm throttle body - great mod, easy to do, definate power increase at 3000+ RPMS...pulls like it never did before.
K&N filter - univeral 9" x4" opening, mounted to the OEM MAF with a billet aluminum adapter.
MAC white face gauges - white during the day, dark at night. Easy mod, the only challenge being getting the needles accurate, but it really wasn't too hard, especially using the on-board diagnostic sequence available on the SN-95. Just need patience.
Bullitt pedals - bitch to put on, but love the look and feel.
Billet headlight switch - simple little mod (well, as soon as you can get the OEM switch off!)

[mustanggt3685]

1997 Mustang GT
BBK 75mm Throttle body and Plenum- I great purchase for around $330. I did feel some gains from it and if planning to supercharge your stang' in the future definitly go with the 75mm. Install took around 2 hours.
SuperchipYes, these do run a bit high in price, around $399 or so is what I paid, but like any tuner they are worth it. I did feel an awesome gain, around 10% advertised. You cannot really mess with anything in specific, but its a 10 minute instant power adder.
March Underdrive Pulleys- I bought the $60 stainless steel set, because it was cheap. Really no noticable power gaisn, but like most have said it is there. The engine runs a lot smoother and the pulleys do extend the life of your engine.
K&n Cold Air Intake- With any new car I think everyone should purchase a K&N. It adds power and the with heat shield, even more! The plastic tubing does not retain heat like the stock rubber hose or the metal ones you see. $200 or so but worth it! Plus the air filter itself is rechargable with a $10 kit.
GTECH TunerNot exactly a power adder, but it does calculate horsepower and 1/4 mile times pretty damn accuratly. Bought the old school one off of ebay for $30, a lot of fun, just do not get stupid.
Steeda Tri-Ax Shorth Throw Shifter- Makes the car feel like a real race car after putting that in. Its an easy install, just need the right tools and a little strength to get some of the bolts off. For $179 it was great deal.

[bgbg22]

Yea i dont have my mustang yet. IM waiting for this crappy winter to pass by in New York. I am getting rid of my old rice ways: I drive an Acura RSX and i am selling it for a 01 or 02 gt.

I have been trying to set how much money i will have from selling my RSX and money saved after buying the GT. I figure anywhere from 1500-2000.

My first mods i wanna get are the 4.10 gears. A place installs them by me for 400, parts and installation included, and they have a good rep, so should be a nice fit. However, to tune it, like the speedometer, i cant find a tuner that works on an automatic gt in the 01-02 years. They all only work on 96-98 version gts and all 99-04 manual.

Also, what other upgrades do you think i should purchase: This is what i invision soo far:

4.10 Gears- 400.00
Mac Prochamber X Pipe wit Cats- 409.00
Mac 2 1/2 Catback 3 inch Tips- 319.99
K n L Cold Air Intake- 174.99
Accufab 75 mm Throttle Body and Plenum- 419.00
Brings me close to 1800 with installation:


So what do you guys think. I want my gt to be running close to 275hp-300hp. I will be gettin it dynotuned when i am fully done with all the upgrades i have listed here. Any ideas, suggestions are welcome. email me bgbg22billy@yahoo.com if you got any ideas.

[Dorsai]

I think you should ask questions in a new thread is what I think....

Anywho..

2004 GT - 5 spd

MGW short throw shifter. Love it, made the whole car seem different. It is as quiet as the stock shifter and much much better shift action.

MGW various Billet interior pieces items like the cup holder rings etcetera just because they look great and add some class to the interior...

MRT hood strut kit on order because I hate prop rod's with a passion

More to follow....

[Adverse2Change]

'00 V6

Dual Exhaust - Flowmaster 40 Series
Looks good, sounds a lot better than I expected. No real change to gas mileage in either direction.

MGW Shifter
Smooth, plan and simple...

[motosys]

My mods are as follows

Mac cold Air intake 2005

Mac cat back exahust 8 hours under the car with jack stands but it sounds like a dream and with the 3 inch tips looks great 2006

Steeda under drive pulleys 2008

steeda subframe connectors 2005

the best strongest new motorcraft Automatic (I wish it was a 5 speed) (ford is not cheap for thoes trannys 6k ugh) 2005

Xcalibrator II custom tune 2007

I just purchased a set of PI heads and am getting ready to purchas the intake plennum 2008

I plan to purchase a twin turbo kit in the next year or so

[BurningRubber]

Great thread, I must have missed it or else don't remember looking at it.


Cosmetics

Late Model Restoration Mach-1 Grille Delete: Easy install, looks great, and the quality is awesome. I paid $50 for it, and it got here quick. Great company to deal with.

Spring Edition Hood Stripes: Someone took these off my car, so I bought a new set from Late Model Restoration. They came quick, and they are NOT cheap versions you might find elsewhere. Over 2 years and the vinyl looks the same it did the day I applied it. $75.


Tires

Federal Super Steele: They were 245/45/17's. They hooked well for a stock sized tire, and they lasted a while especially running on a bad alignment and using a heavy right foot. These were on the car when I bought them.

General Exclaim UHP: I ordered these from Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels EXCELLENT and fast service. These are 245/45/17 in size, but I am only running them on the front end. Wear has been OUTSTANDING on these tires. They look almost brand new with close to a year on them, and a decent amount of hard driving and a few trips around an autocross track. They work well in rain. My only gripe is when they are pushed really hard they tend to plow a little bit. $86/tire.

Sumitumo HTR-Z: I ordered these from Tire Rack also. Two 315/35/17's. At first, they hooked ok. No better than the Federal 245's that used to be on the car. I accidently ran them over-inflated for a long time, and did some very abuse burnouts and the treadwear has impressed me for what they have gone through. They are allright in the rain when they have tread, but now at the end of their life you MUST drive easy on them almost like a drag radial. Dry traction lacks in all of first and second gear, this wasn't too bad at first but after they wear a little kiss it goodbye. At $99/tire I don't expect much, but these exceeded what I thought they would be.


Drivetrain:

MGW Short Throw Shifter: Smooth as butter! The quality is outstanding on this shifter, you will be hard pressed to find one that can touch this shifter in quality and user adjustability. You can raise or lower the shift handle, and set the angle you want it at. It works only SO/SO for drag racing, but that wasn't really what it was designed for. MGW is a great company to deal with. $190.

Summit Racing 4.10 Gears: I decided to be different and bought these instead of FRPP or Motive gears. Prior to installation, they looked to be very good quality. They were not cast cheaply and were nice and smoothly cut. Since the day of installation these gears have whined. The guy who I had install them is a 35+ year ASE mechanic and has done COUNTLESS other Mustang gear installs for people I personally know. Pinion depth and lash all checked out. We both figure it is just the cut of the gears. We tried to figure out who actually made them (we thought Richmond), as some companies gears are naturally a little noisy. No problems other than that though. They have stood up to 10+ passes at the track, most of which on BIG drag radials launching over 4k RPM. HUGE seat of the pants improvment. I also cut my 1/8th mile times down 2/10ths by switching to these gears. Definatly a first mod if you know where to spend your money correctly. $120 + 300 for install.

Ratech Bearings: I changed the bearings with a fresh set of Ratech's when I had the gears done. I purchased their full bearing kit, aswell as axle bearings. All of them are quality, and are quiet as a mouse in the rear end. Highly reccomend them. Got them from Summit Racing, literally the best automotive company I have ordered from. $100 + axle bearings.

FRPP Trac-lok Rebuild Kit: Got this from Summit also. Comes with all the stuff you need to rebuild your stock limited slip differential, plus friction modifier. I could only see a little bit of difference between performance before and after it was rebuilt. I doubt this was because of bad parts, but more along the lines of the trac-lok not being worn out when I had it rebuilt. $45.


Performance

K&N FIPK: This was on the car when I bought it. It is quiet, and it is made of plastic so there is almost zero heat soak. Highly reccomend it.

Professional Products 75mm TB: This is the non-polished version. Quality is great, I noticed and improvment with throttle response and top end performance when this was paired with a ported plenum. Got it from RPM Outlet with no issues. $225 as a plenum/TB combo.

RPM Ported Plenum: RPM Outlet paired up with C&L to make a lower cost ported upper plenum. It is cast in the same shape of the C&L, but you can tell it is made very cheap. It doesn't have any moving parts, so it's really not a concern. I noticed a nice improvement when paired with the 75mm TB. $225 as a plenum/TB combo.

UPR Catless X Pipe: I bought this used from a buddy of mine. It hangs a little low, but I think it can be tweaked. Quality is great, it has withstood countless encounters with the pavement and isn't torn apart yet. I definatly noticed alot more grunt in the top end with this as opposed to the stock H pipe. This should be a first or second mod. $125 used.

Mac Flowpath Catback: I forget the name of the company I bought it from. Anyway, it has the Dura-Black coating (as long as it doesn't scrape on anything). Fit was good, but not great. Weld's were nice, everything bolted up smooth. The tails and tips are OUT-STANDING! This catback gives your 'Stang a mean snarl no matter what mid-pipe you are running. $320.

Diablosport Predator: Bought it used for $160 and its worth EVERY SINGLE PENNY. I used to to calibrate my gears, check trouble codes, shut of my exhaust-related CEL, and to tune my car. I gained 6.9 rwhp and 13 lb ft over the canned Diablo tune just by adjusting my fuel/spark curves in two dyno runs.


Suspension:

Roush Racing Springs: Very good quality, easy install. They dropped the car modestly, but not too much. I am able to get a very good alignment without caster/camber plates. They are pretty stiff and offer very little weight transfer when drag racing, but their ability to keep flat in the corners makes up for it. I paid $160 through a freind of mine.


Brakes:

Summit Racing Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors: Bought these shortly after they came out. Everyone warned me not to get cross drilled and slotted because they are prone to crack after a little while. Almost 1 year later and alot of hard driving, and one REALLY abusive trip to an oval track (I overheated them to the point they were smoking and I lost almost all pedal feel) and they have not warped, cracked, or had any problems thus far. They are very high quality, I paid $60/rotor for the front end only.

EBC Greenstuff Pads: These work great in wet or dry conditions. They are an organic pad and give off alot less dust than a metal pad, and what dust is produced comes right off. Once they get warmed up a little they bite really well. Pad wear has been great so far at almost a year. $75 for the front's, purchased through Summit Racing.


I think thats all I have worth posting about. I hope that helped somebody out...

[Hitman]

Originally Posted by bgbg22

Yea i dont have my mustang yet. IM waiting for this crappy winter to pass by in New York. I am getting rid of my old rice ways: I drive an Acura RSX and i am selling it for a 01 or 02 gt.

I have been trying to set how much money i will have from selling my RSX and money saved after buying the GT. I figure anywhere from 1500-2000.

My first mods i wanna get are the 4.10 gears. A place installs them by me for 400, parts and installation included, and they have a good rep, so should be a nice fit. However, to tune it, like the speedometer, i cant find a tuner that works on an automatic gt in the 01-02 years. They all only work on 96-98 version gts and all 99-04 manual.

Also, what other upgrades do you think i should purchase: This is what i invision soo far:

4.10 Gears- 400.00
Mac Prochamber X Pipe wit Cats- 409.00
Mac 2 1/2 Catback 3 inch Tips- 319.99
K n L Cold Air Intake- 174.99
Accufab 75 mm Throttle Body and Plenum- 419.00
Brings me close to 1800 with installation:


So what do you guys think. I want my gt to be running close to 275hp-300hp. I will be gettin it dynotuned when i am fully done with all the upgrades i have listed here. Any ideas, suggestions are welcome. email me bgbg22billy@yahoo.com if you got any ideas.

I think your sights are set too high for the 275 - 300 hp (to the rear wheels), especially if you go with an automatic. But don't fret, it should still be a fine running machine.

[crzyhrse99]

UPR O/R X: Grea product for the price, I replaced my BBK with this product and the fitment was a lot better in which it gave more ground clearance than the BBK. Price was around 150-160 plus shipping through UPR.

SLP LM2 Catback: Sounds very good and has a nice tone. This paired with an O/R X sounds great IMO, can be kept quiet if you want and can scream during WOT, no drone, and none of that popping, wet farting sound when decelerating like I experienced with O/R pipe matched with flows. Price was about $420 shipped with discound code from american muscle.

MAC CAI: ehh its pretty. If I had it to do all over I would have either just dropped in a K&N in stock housing or bought a JLT or K&N RAI kit. I like having my filter where its easilly accessible for cleaning purposes and because I have had my fenderwell kit filter fall off. Bought this probably around '01 and it was aound $190.

Granatelli Plenum: For the $99 paid I thought it was a good deal. Its the same product as the C&L plenum just w/o the C&L stamp on the front. I know this because I installed this on my car and a C&L on my buddys 00 stang a few weeks later. Remember on whatever plenum you buy there is a difference between the years, 99-00 and 01-04, I cant remember the difference right off but I think its one of the hoses beside the IAC thats in a different location, just make sure you get the one for youre year. Price paid $99 plus shipping from jegs.

BBK 70mm TB: Compliments the other intake additions. Have had it on the car since '01 and have had no problems or issues. Purchased aound the same time as the intake and probably about the same price.

BBK Underdrive Pulleys: Lots of trouble from them, I went through a couple belts after putting these on (and could have been install error) I know I went through a couple tensioners also. But I must have finally got something right because I havent had any issues with them in about 3 years. Purchased around '02 for probably a hair under $200.


Steeda Tri-Ax: Cool shifter, I like it. Bought this before MGW shifter was even out for the stang so I would like to check out a MGW to compare. Price was around $150.

FRPP King Cobra Clutch: At least 60K miles on it and still bites as hard as it ever did with about 150-200 track passes. Paid around $150 from summit racing.


FRPP 3.73 Gears: Meh, shouldnt have pussed out and got the 4.10's. No issues, no noise at around 50K miles. Kit including all the installation hardware from the stealership for $150.

DSP: Used this to turn off CEL from the OR pipe, calibrate for the gears, set the fans for the 180* thermostat and its a scan tool. Very satisfied with this mod. Bought on Ebay used/unlocked for $200.

[SLN043]

I have the whole Saleen setup so this might seen repetitive

Saleen Flash Tune - Came with the car
Saleen/Magnaflow Catback, Extreme edition
Full Saleen Suspension
Saleen U/D pullies

And I had the C&L Intake Plenum - Good power at higher RPMs
3.73 Ford Racing Gears - Great purchase, they do whine a little because I tend to try and save money by DIY
S&B CAI, had to get rid of my BBK because it wasn't CARB legal... stupid California laws
BBK 75mm - had if for the longest time but sold it
Accufab 75mm throttle body
Fox Lake P-51 intake manifold - I found a guy that was selling it for 360, for the Manifold, accufab TB, and the Fox Lake Fuel rails

I was kinda skeptical about the P-51 at first, but its definatly is worth every penny, I'm running N/A now, and I can feel it pull so much harder from 3000rpm to redline. We dynoed my car, and compared it to the 04 Mustang GT with CAI, throttle body, pullies, and intake plenum, and there was a pretty big diffrence with the HP and tourqe. I dont have the sheets in front of me now, but you can see the power curve, and it was pretty amazing diffrence.

anyways, thats it for now

[blksq10psi]

my best mod was ditching the bottle and gettin a supercharger no more goin to the crack house and fillin up

[crazystang25]

for starters, i got a lot of suspension work,

maximum motorsports front k-member kit with bilsteins all around and delrin control arm bushings with adjustable aluminum rack bushings.

bolt through tie rod ends. basically everything for their front kit and i love it.

maximum motorsports xtreme rear LCA's- love em, got more road noise but i don't care. i say bring it.

urethane motormounts from prothane- work great no probs got em from maximum also

also got steeda full lenths with cross bolts

tubular tranny x-memeber with prothane tranny mount from maximum

moser 9 in. with 3.70's, detroit locker, 35 splines- can i say indestructible, although now i want 4.11's since im use to the 3.70's.

bbk cold air that was on it when i bought it along with the garbage flowmaster catback. not hatin on flowmaster they make great systems but the guy that owned it before me put them in with 2 1/4 in. pipe instead of 2 1/2 in. (idiot)

spec stage 2+ i like it, grabs good.

msd coils, didn't feel much but needed new coils and these were cheaper than stockies, also put in autolite 104's

future mods- im wantin to do t-56 conversion with 4.11's, rebuild bottom end, comp 270's, intercooled procharger d1sc, full exhaust (magnapacks, o/r x-pipe, headers)

[1stanger1]

ok so now i'm getting somewhere!

99 mustang was a V6 automatic
mark VIII swap 4.6 dohc
01 gt T-45
03 cobra 1" eichbach lowering springs
cobra upper and lower intake
01 cobra catless H-pipe
01 cobra headers
96 gt stage 2 clutch
96 gt aluminum flywheel
3:73 gears
96 cobra ecm
09 mustang gt wheels
03 gt black headlights
saleen side exhaust
00 gt hydro boost
deleted all o2 sensors
I ACTUALLY HAVE A MUSTANG NOW NOT A WUSTANG!!!! sorry V6 owners

[JymboSlice]

My cars kinda stock but whatever..

[B]JLT CAI--[B]kinda a pain in the a$$ to install but it looks good. some perf gains but notmuch
accufab throttle body--easy to installl and barely any perf gains. not so much.
SLP longtube headers with catted xpipe and magnaflow magnapacks--longtubes are a bit*h to install. im not even saying that for the fun of it. if you dont have a hoist then your pretty much screwed. everything else was kinda easy to install.=] some perf gains. kinda felt them.
UPR short throw--to anyone with a stock shifter, go out and purchase a short throw. tighter shifts and you barely miss any gears
4.10's--screw gas milage. get them. thats all i need to say
upr k-member with coil overs and tubular control arms--really hard to install without a hoist. shaves some weight off the front end. kit is less than $700 so i would recommend it.
aluminum driveshaft--cheap mod. didnt really feel a difference but i would reccomend it. but please dont pay someone $80 or so to put it on for you. crawl under your car and get the 4 bolts. stop being lazy.
2003 cobra 10th anniversary front/rear brakes--better stoping. really easy to install. i would recommend them.
Zex 125 shot of juice..wet--really usefull if a ricer or someone wants to race you. kinda hard to install but whatever its definently worth it. only cost $550 or so.

also im only 16 and my dad and i installed everything on my car besides the 4.10 gears...by ourselves. if we can do it then im sure everyone else can. stop paying people to put your crap on your cars. waste of money!!

[Macksta]

Hello, First post here. Copied Burning Rubber's format.

2002 Mustang GT just hit 40k miles

Black on Black on Black on Black!


Cosmetics
-Smoked Headlights with Luminics 9007 Light Bulbs
-White Face Gauges
-Steeda race Pedals
-Tint


Wheels and Tires!

-Nitto NT555 245/40-18 up front -
-Nitto NT555 285/35-18 out back - No traction problems
-Mustang 18x9 & 18x10 Black Bullit deep dish wheels

Drivetrain

-Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Love it
-FRPP 3.73 gears - Choose these over 4.10 as i wasnt sure what forced induction to go with
-FRPP Aluminum Drive Shaft - hmm, it works... i guess

Performance

-JLT CAI - Pain in the ASS as filter is below the car and the 4" tube is HUGE and rubs on my oil cap
-Accufab Plenum - Great gain
-Accufab 75mm TB - Great Gain
-Steeda UD Pulleys - Pain in the ASS install for me. MY friend and I dam near had to tap the crankshaft bolt as we over-tightened the crank pulley so bad...
-Steeda Timing Adjuster - Set @ 13 and not sure if this is where its supposed to be as i think the breenspeed tune adjusted the timing in the tune so.. are they both working together or....
-MAC Long Tube Headers - Had a shop install
-MAC Pro Chamber
-MAC Cat Back - Almost went with full borla but something told me to go with MAC. Glad i did as in a recent review in a mustang mag they tested around 10 separate setups on a stock 2v and the MAC dominated all other setups by at least 10hp on the dyno.

-MSD Coil Packs - Works good with a tune for them
-Brisk Plugs - Ordered these from steeda and they only shipped me half of the plugs.. i didn't want to wait to test out my new MSD so i went and bought boshe until the other plugs came in.. car ran like **** with boshe and then ran perfect with brisk. threw the boshe away!
-SCT LiveWire - i hate this dam thing.. I am a computer engineer and had problems with updating this POS. SCT's website sucks as well.

-Tuned by BreenSpeed - Good guys over there


Brakes
-Cobra Front & Rear upgrade with 13" Brembo Plain Rotors and steel braided lines


And last but not least, about 3 grand in stereo equipment.

Sold my Ducati so i have 8 grand to play with right now

Debating 4 grand in suspension and then the new trick flow heads with comp cam's and the track heat intake for a N/a build.. Or 4 grand for a built bottom end and 4 grand for a tork tech blower.. i just don't know and need some advise please.

[JymboSlice]

Macksta...you should go with some suspension stuff. keep it mild to about like $1500-$2000 or so but definently get a k-member(I have a UPR and they are awsome and cheap=]). and then buy a blower. the tork tech would be the most bang for the buck...they would produce more hp than the heads, intake, cams, etc.

you dont necessarily need a built bottom end you have 40k miles...get the suspension taken care of, clutch, fuel and rear end so you dont twist your axles with all the power you plan to throw at it. then purchase the blower....then when the time comes when your engine blows get the bottom end and the ported heads/cams.

[Macksta]

Thank you for the help.

I am looking at this...
MM Road and Track Box - For 02-04 GT Coupe - StangSuspension.com

Is this a good start?

Suspension is way too complicated to purchase IMO so any and all recommendations are welcome. All these suspension packages have the same parts in them so i want to make sure i get the right starter package.

FYI this car is 100% daily driven.

Thanks

[v-3stallion172]

01 mustang gt

All these mods are listed in order as installed.

3.73 gears
already installed when ca was purchased

flow master cat back and bbk offroad x-pipes
This was the easiest install of everything. maybe took me about 30-45 min for each.

BBK UD PULLIES
very easy install, no power gains felt but frees up the motor requireing less hp needed to turn pullies.

Steeda tri-ax shifter
Another very simple install, this shifter does great on reduceing the travel to each gear and i personally love the feel of it.

BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY
realy liked this mod jus cuz its simple and increases you throttle response as well as mid range gains(high gains if you have a power adder)

C&L plenum
bigger, ported and polished inlet i felt the difference. easy bolt on.

vortech v-3 si trim supercharger
LOVE IT, LOVE IT, LOVE IT. install was very simple and straight forward. fineshed it in about 3 days.

STAGE 3 SPEC CLUTCH AND BBK ADJUSTABLE CLUTHC CABLE AND ALUMINUM QUATRANT
i like this clutch alot, its strong but still very streetable, only side affect is a big left leg. ( If you dont know much about pulling or stabin trannys or have little experience i would not recomend doing this install yourself) The clutch cable and quadrant install was a breeze... took around 20 min.

[MileHiSnk]

1998 Cobra Coupe

Ok, so I just joined after visiting the forum over a couple years, and here's what I've got, in chronological order.

3.73 Gears :: Ok, don't shoot me, I know 3.73s are wrong for 32V cars. They were already on the car when I bought it, so I have no comparison to a stock cobra, but it seems to pull pretty well. I also don't have the problem I have heard about, of being stuck at the end of the 1/4 between gears, because I'm in Denver, so I don't rev as high, due to less power, so they actually work well.

Pro5.0 shifter :: Another mod that was on the car when I bought it. I have driven a number of stock mustangs though, and I know it shifts MUCH better, but I don't like the handle design. It is laid back too much, whereas I would prefer it be more upright for comfort.

Steeda adjustable clutch cable, firewall adjuster and clutch quadrant :: Ok, had this installed when the stock clutch gave out shortly after I bought the car, and the pilot bearing grenaded. Good: The clutch was finally adjusted correctly, so I could actually change gears without grinding gears. Bad: There is no pedal stop built into the car, so the pedal rattles a little bit. Steeda has made a stop to fix that, but I have been lazy and haven't gotten it yet.

No-Name muffler shop X-merge and exhaust :: Last bit that was already installed when I bought the car. Previous owner had a muffler shop weld on an X junction behind the stock cats, and remove the mufflers. Does it improve power? Possibly, there's no mufflers. Does it improve sound? Oddly enough, it sounds fantastic. Wish he would have just bought a high flow catted X instead...

BFG Traction T/A 245/45-17 front BFG g-Force T/A kdws 275/40-17 Rears :: Hey, I live in Colorado and we do get freak snowstorms in July, so I wanted to make sure I could at least get home if that happened. The car came with 2 different kinds of tires on it...and the guy rotated them, so there were 2 pirellis on the pass. side, 2 continentals on the drivers side. Aside from fixing what I thought was an alignment issue, they seem to grip fairly well, but are a little slippery at the track. That could have been due to lack of experience with the car too, though, but overall they work well for what they are. Next tires will be much more performance oriented, for sure. Something like a Falken RT-615 or Nitto NT05s.

Now for the new stuff...
Fresh engine :: Ok, I spun a bearing...2 years ago, and finally got it put back together. I didn't do much more than a stock rebuild (seasonal work + new child + being a college student = not much money for forged rods, pistons, ported heads, etc), but I did do some cleaning up of the intake and head ports of any extra flash that could interrupt airflow. Compared to where it was a year ago, HUGE power gain, instead of a 1 mp(manpower), it's back to the stock 305ish hp. haha, bad joke, I know.

Moto-blue underdrive pulleys :: Installed with the rebuild. Crank pulley is SFI approved, is about 3lbs lighter than stock, and of course, is underdriven. Seems to be a very well made unit. Water pump pulley is also slightly smaller, and a bit lighter as well. I didn't install the alternator pulley, namely because I don't like the idea of slowing the alternator down even more. They might free up a couple hp, but I'd never know it.

Screamin' Demon Coil Packs and Livewires :: New engine needed new plug wires, so why not upgrade the coil packs at the same time? Advertised that you can increase spark plug gap to .065", so theoretically should increase power and efficiency. These came highly recommended from a friend who had them. Seems to idle smoother than before the engine blew, not sure if this is the reason or not...

C&L 85mm MAF and Trueflow Intake :: Agree with everyone else whole-heartedly. After the break-in period for the engine, it seems to pull better at higher RPMs than the old engine did. Does make an increased noise, possibly indicating more flow, but SOTP says it pulls harder, up high.

Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel :: I have used a lightweight flywheel on other cars with nothing but great things to say, so I did the same with this car. Unlike on my other cars that had them, there has been no downsides to this flywheel. The car doesn't need to be given any more gas to take off from a stop than before, but the engine definitely accelerates quicker, especially as the revs increase. With the stock flywheel previous, the revs wouldn't climb much on a powershift, but with this, it noticeably revs up.

SCT SF3 Flash Tuner :: I bought this in a package with the UDPs, but waited to install any custom tunes until the engine was past the break-in point. So far, I just have a pre-loaded tune installed, but I will be getting a custom tune made shortly. The engine seems to have idled even smoother after the tune, and has picked up quite a bit in the mid RPM range. I've been searching the forums to find what other end-users are changing (add timing, add/subtract fuel?), but haven't found anything thus far.

I hope to get it on the dyno sometime before winter, and get to the track to see how it runs, and compare it to my first set of runs. Just for reference, I ran it a month after I bought it, with very little experience with this car, bad clutch, being unable to shift above 3000rpm from 1-2, and ran a best of 15.264 and 94.39mph. Yeah yeah yeah, I can't drive...I figured that out already, I had a 2.37 60'.