[chrisz02]

2002 GT 5 Speed

3.73 Gears My first and most favorite mod. IMHO every 4.6 mustang should have a gear change. If I was doing it over I would go with 4.10's.
MAC CAI Not worth the hassle or the money. Did make a neat sucking sound, but I took it off and put the stock filter with the silencer trimmed.
Diablo Sport Chip Bought it for a little more power and to correct the speedo for my gear change. Wish I had gotten a custom chip, (remove rev limit, more timing, etc.) Did feel like a bit more power and I haven't had any problems.
Steeda Triax Shifter Good change, definately a better feel than stock and shifts are more positive (no looking for 3rd).
Steeda Pullies Bought them a while back and was installing and noticed I had the wrong water pump. (I didn't check) Still need to install along with timing adjuster.

[vipergts281]

Update:

MAC O/R H-pipe- Install was a pain in the ass. I will never do the install again unless I have a lift. My car is way louder now. And it definitely gave my car a little more power. Not too bad for $140 and lots of elbow grease.

[Topstang2001]

2001 Stang GT

Vortech V-2 supercharger-I sure the heck didnt put it in.
Steeda sport springs-Nor these either
2000 Cobra R wing-That was easy
Flowmasters
Thats about it.More on the way tho.

[5111]

1 1/4" Wheel spacers - I know it is only cosmetic, but it is DEFINITELY worth it. It really adds to the look of the car and only costs $100. You put them on just like a tire.

K&N drop-in Filter - I felt nothing. After removing the silencer the car was louder, but I still felt nothing. Later I switched to a MAC CAI.

3.73s - The best mod you can do. The car feels much stronger. 4.10s would also be good. I paid to have the install done.

FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft - I am sure that it makes a difference, but I can't feel it . Install is a piece of cake though and it only costs $150.

Denso Iridium plugs - The car might accelerate a little smoother but not much. If NA I would not recommend them. They install easy enough but are not worth $80.

Steeda Tri-ax - Easy install once you break the stock shifter off the tranny. I wasn't that impressed after I did it until I went back and then drove with the stock shifter. Tri-ax is MUCH better. Cost me $205 but you can find them for about $150.

Steeda U/D Pulleys - I noticed that the car seemed to rev much faster at 3000+ rpms. Worth $150 IMO. I paid someone $40 to install them. The Bullitt already comes with U/D pulleys but these are more underdriven. The alternator one was the same size.

MAC CAI - The kit was given to me so it was definitely worth it Install was a major PITA! I got the old kit that has the really big filter that points down. If you are driving through water that is about a foot deep you could have trouble, but otherwise it is not a problem. I did not really notice any gains in switching from a drop-in K&N without a silencer. BTW, the metal pipe has not even gotten warm yet in 3 months. The 90* bends, however, have caused the MAF to get an incorrect reading and now I am running rich.

MAC Catted H-pipe - I got the pipe used for $150 and although it is catted it set off the MIL so I had to get MIL Eliminators. The car is somewhat louder, but not much. The drone with the Bullitt mufflers, however, is worse. As far as power gains I am not sure. It is louder now at the same speed so it is hard to translate that into the SOTP dyno.

Magnaflow Catback - I bought this system off of someone else new and in the box but for only $200! It has been worth every cent. It has great sound and seems to add some performance to the car. The installation was not overly difficult, just time consuming. Definitely get the car up as high as possible and get a sawzall to cut the stock pipe. The fit and finish is excellent.

I dynoed 243.6/279.6 with these mods.

BBK Ceramic coated Long Tube Headers - I got these for $450. I paid someone $400 to install it along with the Dr. Gas X pipe. I noticed a definite SOTP improvement in the upper rpms. The part appears to be very high quality.

Dr. Gas O/R X pipe I got this for $350 installed. It is expensive to install because the part comes in parts and has to be welded together. The installer told me that it takes about 3 hours to install. I did it with the long tubes.

With these I dynoed 256.7/291.9 but was running rich.

[Raben]

BBK Fender mount Cold air intake I dynoed with this mod with everything else stock at 217.6rqhp and 259.8rwtq. Not sure what the stock numbers would have been but don't think this is bad with only a intake. Not to mention

Magnaflow X-pipe & Magnaflow Cat-back with Magnapacks Really love this exhaust setup! Haven't had it dynoed with the exhaust installed yet but will be soon. Me and the wife has a baby on the way so getting geared up for the little girl

I'll post more mods when I get them.


But the exhaust and intake did make a nice performance difference, espeically in the mid rpms

[Saleen201]

UPDATE

BBK LT headers and BBK O/R H pipe- It was a PITA to install but worth every knuckle breaking, tool trowing moment
If i was to do it again it would be so bad... i think i made every mistake the first time. Gains are very noticeable. The car doesnt seem so slugish anymore.

BBK LT, BBK O/R H pipe, Borla Catback Exhaust Sound- At idle it is pretty quite with a noticable grumble. Normal driving under 2500 RPM gives a sweet low tone and grumble but as soon as you go WOT above 2500 RPM it gets LOUD and i love it. From what i hear not as loud as the MagnaPacks but it is still loud

-Mike

[StaticTripSVT]

1999 Mustang Cobra

Dense Charger
Easy install,getting the 100mm tube on the TB required a hair dryer to heat and make plyable but easy none the less.

Dr gas Xpipe
Good gains,good sound,affordable.What more can you ask for?

Magnaflow Magnapack
Sounds awsome,makes good power and easy install.I recomend this exhaust for any car.

Phillips HID headlights
EASY install and work incredible.I will NEVER own a car without them again

Solid axle conversion
This was installed by a shop not myself.By far the most ET reducing mod.

Rear end parts for solid axle
I went with Moser axles,Eaton posi,TA girdle,ARP fasteners,4.30 and the UPR kit.I havn't had any troubl;e from any of the products other than the UPR upper control arm I split open.However,UPR sent the replacements out no questions asked,for free with 1 day of contacting them.

4.10 gear
Worked well,went with the IRS when I sold it.I still recomend a little deeper gear for the 32v cars.

4.30 gear
Really like it.Good all around gear.IOt gets the ETs and still has some top end for playing on the street.I am considering a 4.56 now but no regrets for going with the 4.30.

[phens281]

Diablosport Chip
OK, after having this mod for roughly 2 years, I can attest that it does something. I definitely notice when the chip isn't plugged in (it has gone in and out of the computer a few times). Something on this car is doing something right in the way of HP... it makes 217 at the wheels (corrected for gearsuck) and I have a hunch this may help that... (paid 175 for it I believe)

3.73 FRPP Gears
This is kind of a "duh". Yes, they help... I am much happier with my 3.73's than I would have been with 4.10s I think. Me, Highway @ 80mph =2500rpm.. My friend w/4.10's @ 80 = 3K!
(Paid 180 for the part and around the same for install 150-200) It was a long time ago

MAC Power Pullies
My roommates bought these for me for my birthday last year. It wasn't a SOTP increase, and I know I am not doing the electrical system any favors... I'm not sure whether or not Steeda pullies are felt in the pants, but I am happy enough with these to leave them on (plus they were free!)

Bassani O/R X-Pipe
Definitely love the sound of this one! My car is a '96 and came with SIX catalytic converters. I felt this one all over the power range and couldn't be happier! Paid $200 for this cause I got it used on Stangnet

Magnaflow Mufflers
$69.95 per muffler installed, can't beat that! I love the sound of 'em... as far as any gains?! I dunno, maybe a little..

Zoom King Cobra Clutch
Got a good deal on this one.. Had my tranny rebuilt and the factory clutch was not gone, but could stand to be replaced, so I popped this one in for around $200. I like it. It hooks!

BBK Cold Air Induction
This cost me $150. I cut it about a year ago cause I heard that if you rotate the MAF 90*, it will trick the engine into making the car run leaner/richer. I can't remember. After chopping up my part and rotating the MAF, it just turned on the MIL. I was thinkin, "shiiite". It's off for now, but I like the hissing sound it makes when I punch it.

Pro 5.0 Shifter
This thing is awesome. I paid around $150 for this as well, if I can remember correctly. I would highly recommend getting rid of the crappy factory shifter (You will be amazed at the difference in build quality when you have them side by side)

Borla Tips
Almost as much HP as a sticker... lol.. paid like $40 for these on E-Bay. I felt like I stole them, they are around $180-200 if I'm correct. It looked like ricer exhaust at first cause the tips are so much bigger than I'm used to. It may have changed the sound a little bit.

275/40/17 Nitto 555R Drag Radials (not for street use)
So far I can't hook with 'em. 2.07 60'. Don't kill me. I paid 160 per tire I think, then like 40 for mount/balance. Traction is cool.

Hope this thread stays alive, it's a good one! I didn't take the time to mention the appearance mods, if you have ?s PM me.

[1Badwhite99gt]

Level 10 shift kit

I absolutely love the way my tranny shifts. Chirps third.


Frpp 3.73's

The best mod I have.


Frpp underdrive pullies

Noticeable increase in acceleration, and install wasn't hard.

Flowmaster Delta Flow 40 series.

Came on the car when I bought it. Love the sound.

Best 1/4 time so far is 13.6@99.53 on street tires, with a 1.9 60'

[mrvax]

K&N Drop In Filter: Did not notice any real difference.

Cut air silencer: Same, did not notice much difference.

Gears; 3.73: WOW! Moved up from 2.73s. Great mod, must have gears, felt like I picked up 40 RWHP.

FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft: Stopped all vibration associated with steeper gears. Although my gear install was perfect, the gears can make their own vibration. The aluminum d/s was worth the purchase.

Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter: Great mod. Nice firm shifts. Fixes the 2-3 mis-shift problem also. Good shift position.

P&P ’01 Headswap kit: Huge difference. Car now feels good and fast.

MagnaFlow Catted X and MagnaFlow cat-back
I cannot believe the power difference this has made. Very noticible over the stock 6 cat system. Also picked up 2 mpg!

Griggs medium length subframe connectors
Made the car handle better and go over bumps better. The car feels a lot more solid. Good mod only cost $225 installed.

Steeda/Ford EEC Reflash
When using ½ throttle at about 3500 rpms, there is a very noticeable difference in the exhaust note. The car sounds more powerful, actually growls a bit more. The part throttle acceleration especially in the lower rpms has vastly improved. This was not what I expected. I’ve seen small gains from timing adjusters and wondered if they could be felt. This reflash has made a heck of a difference in power, especially down low.

[erichmess_]

UPDATE (Again):

(Note, all mods were done at same time)
K&N FIPK Gen II : Looks pretty cool, makes a sweet sound when you rev it up.
Steeda Pullies : Since they were all installed together, can't tell which is providing the most power.
FMS Aluminum Driveshaft : Quite, looks awesome, much lighter weight.

In all, I'm pleased with the mods, and I can DEFINATELY feel a lot more power through all first gear it seems and top end of all the other gears.

[stimmler]

Originally posted by Saleen201
UPDATE

BBK LT headers and BBK O/R H pipe- It was a PITA to install but worth every knuckle breaking, tool trowing moment
If i was to do it again it would be so bad... i think i made every mistake the first time. Gains are very noticeable. The car doesnt seem so slugish anymore.

BBK LT, BBK O/R H pipe, Borla Catback Exhaust Sound- At idle it is pretty quite with a noticable grumble. Normal driving under 2500 RPM gives a sweet low tone and grumble but as soon as you go WOT above 2500 RPM it gets LOUD and i love it. From what i hear not as loud as the MagnaPacks but it is still loud

-Mike

Mike,
I have a borla cat back and was thinking of going with the BBK longtubes. How much louder is it after the Longtubes are added and did you notice any more power?
John

[stimmler]

Anyone have the saleen series 2 on a '98? I am deciding between it and getting the headswap (p&p with .510x.530 cams). Looking for about 100 hp.

[vipergts281]

Originally posted by stimmler
Mike,
I have a borla cat back and was thinking of going with the BBK longtubes. How much louder is it after the Longtubes are added and did you notice any more power?
John

Not sure if Mike is able to be on SN for awhile. So, I will answer for him if you don't mind.

His car became much louder. If you are a few car lengths behind him and he accelerates, you can hear it loud and clear. And I am sure he noticed more power. L/T's give some nice HP gains.

Hope that helps.

[stimmler]

Thanks, that was exactly what I was wondering. Hope Mike does well, I'm also a , USNR.

[SpeedJunky]

Scotty, why don't you cruise around the local high school and find another 17y.o. girl to screw like you did with Sarah.

[Pootiestang]

Originally posted by SpeedJunky
Scotty, why don't you cruise around the local high school and find another 17y.o. girl to screw like you did with Sarah.

:confused:

[Fatty1570]

Here goes

Bassani X pipe with aftercats
My first significant mod....definitely worth the money. Easy installation....sounds absolutely awesome. If you want your car to sound FAST and want a noticeable performance gain, bassani is the pipe for you. If you want MEAN or loud, go with another

3.90 Motive Gear
Combined with the exhaust, turns my tame GT into a contender. Gears and high flow exhaust with a bit of good driving can make a world of a difference. 3.90 is a good gear, best of both worlds (3.73 vs. 4.10)

Ported Bullitt Intake, Accufab TB, Ferrea Valves, SVO springs, Ported Heads, radical cams
Ralph from powerheads did my port work. The bullitt intake is VERY expensive (both the intake itself and all the other nickel and dime parts that have to go with it). Although an aftermarket intake is a must to have really significant horsepower down the road, it's very overpriced for the amount of horsepower you're going to get. AND it's a real pain to install. Lots of parts that don't match up between bullitt and GT. (valve covers, vacuum setups, radiator hose, thermostat housing, gaskets, brackets....all sorts of painful purchases). However, port work and throttle body combined with the cams makes the car scream. After the work I did, the car would break loose at 70 mph (naturally aspirated) I wouldn't recommend getting custom cams until your ready to purchase an autolgic chip (you must get autologic so you can reset the rpm idle, the only way it will idle). If you really want to build horsepower without beating on your engine with a truckload of boost, powerheads does a great job. No complaints there

I haven't had the rest of my major mods long enough to give you feedback, the jury's still out....but if I were starting all over again, I'd do everything except I'd probably pass on the bullitt intake and put that money into my suspension.

[AutomaticWeapon]

Originally posted by Fatty1570
Ported Bullitt Intake, Accufab TB, Ferrea Valves, SVO springs, Ported Heads, radical cams

im looking for info on the same type of N/A heads/cams/intake setup that you have. im planning for the next off-season, so i do have time to research.

are you using re-grind cams? i have read some horror stories, and some success stories as far as regrinds go. from what ive gathered so far, the install of the cams is what makes or breaks them. any imput is appreciated. after you get more driving time on your combo, please re-post on its durability.

if i may ask, what did the top end cost you? a ballpark figure would do.

thanks,
-Mike

[Fatty1570]

All the N/A work I had done, was through powerheads.

Depending on what you have done, the cost varies. If you use your heads (which I did, ship them off, have them cnc port them and ship them back) it's around $1200 for the porting work. Include the cams (regrinds, which are awesome, no complaints) I'm not sure. I bought the intake and the accufab from powerheads as well. All in total, the powerheads purchase was $3675, not including shipping ($70 one way). Keep in mind that the bullitt/accufab was $1800 and the rest (heads, valves, springs, cams) was the remainder (around $1875). Then throw in all the bells and whistles to go with the intake (two sets of gaskets, radiator hose, alternator, mounting brackets, throttle cable, valve cover, air intake tube,) the cost of the bullitt with installation was somewhere in the neighborhood of $2500! I had the mechanic work done for me....because I wanted it done right and it was a bit beyond me (I could have done it....but the risk and the amount of time it would have taken was too much compared to the money I was spending). So....bottom line

heads (yours), cams (regrinds) valves and springs .....around $1800 (keep in mind my sit. was a package deal)

Bullitt/accufab....around $2500

If you want it done right....it costs money

Talk to Ralph at powerheads, they did an EXCELLENT job. My car N/A was seriously strong. The cams are way radical though, they don't even wake up until 3500 rpm. You'll have to have it tuned or an autologic chip like I said...(only autologic can reset the idle rpm)

[AutomaticWeapon]

hey man, thanks for posting the info.

did Powerheads actually do the regrinds?, or did they send thier specs to Crane (or whoever)? do you know who they used as an outsource for the cams (if applicable)? when you recieved your heads were the cams already installed?

i apoligize if some of these questiond seem 'stupid' but, truthfully im ignorant when it comes to the 4.6 engines. i only know about the bolt-ons that work... not the bolt ins.

i figured id be $5k+ deep into this next winter. i better figure on $6k just to be safe. hopefully ill have the money available.

thanks again,
-Mike

edit... im not concerened with anything below 4,000 rpm since i launch at 5k+, and id like to stretch the redline to 6,500 on the stock shortblock if possible.

[Fatty1570]

You'll have to talk to Ralph (powerheads). He did outsource the cam regrinds, not sure whom though, it was there local in CA though. I sent the heads complete, but when they come back, the cams will be out (they have to send them to regrind them) and so they just left them out. I suppose you could request them complete upon return.

[AutomaticWeapon]

Ralph @ Powerheads is on my list of contacts.

-Mike

[supastang97]

MAC O/R H Pipe: well worth the 120 something bucks...had a BBK pipe with cats and the cats went out...decided I really didn't want those damn things anyway...MUCH LOUDER and a little bit stronger. I had a bit of a problem with the install at first they were hitting the frame but after a bit of manipulating it was great.

K&N with silencer removed...car had 4:10s and flows already on it when I bought it but the engine was completely stock...dropped in the new filter and noticed a pretty good improvement right away...don't know why they didn't do this in the first place!

[GOROBGO]

SHM shortblock - nice foundation for a race motor!
SHM Blower cams - Really wakes it up!
Ported heads - allows other mods to make even more power!
JBA cat4Ward headers - i put these on mainly because of the carb #
Canton Road Racing Oil Pan - with the baffles in the bottom, i feel a lot safer
Canton Windage Tray - why not?
Vortech- was on the car already
AFM Power Pipe - i gained 4 psi boost and over 6 mph in the 1/4 mile! installation was failry easy, the benefits incredible!
Accufab single-blade S/C Throttle Body - lovely piece! works well @ the 500 HP level
MSD Dis-4 - Keeps everything nice and safe! best investment in a supercharged setup to avoid the factory limiter under boost.
Nitto 555R Drag Radials - hook and book!