[LI98GTStang]

In order of install:

K&N air filter removed air silencer @ same time:
replaced paper air filter with approx. 15k the car and it seemed to rev faster, especially in upper rpms and gave a nice air intake noise from under the hood.

Steeda Tri Ax:
Excellent shifter. Shorter throws, wrapped electrical tape around the base shifter between the upper handle to eliminate transmission noise that was directly being generated after install. The tape works great.

Bassani X with cats:
My favorite mod as it not only did it noticibly increase hp&tq, but made a nice sounding stock stang into something of beauty (to my ears anyway). Louder than stock, but certainly not loud. Not drone with stock catback.

Bullitt suspension kit (includes springs/shocks/struts):
My second favorite mod as it transformed my stang from a softly sprung, pretender into a real handler. I never liked the stock variable rate springs, because it initially was too soft, upon further compression then would hold up. The Bullitt kit is specific rate springs with tokico OEM shocks/struts. No more brake dive, handles much better with no more leaning in the corners. I wish it would have dropped further in front by another 1/4" or so, but other than that, happy with the kit. Maybe I'd go with Steeda next time as the specs are right on with the Bullitt, but with more front drop.

Densecharger TB tube:
Gets rid of the stock waffle tube underhood improving looks, with the stock three turns and replaces it with a single turn into the MAF. Performance wise, felt better throttle response similiar to adding the K&N and similiar intake noise improvement as well.

Wheel Adapters for the rear:
These are AIM 1.25" wheel adapters - not just spacers as they come with thier own lugs. You properly torque them down on to your hub and then bolt your rims to it. I can highly recommended these if your staying with the stock rims. Brings the rear wheels flush with the fender even with stock sized tires, gettiing rid of the pinched in look of a stock SN95. Added bonus of percieved better handling with a wider rear track.

'02 PI cams:
Felt a similiar gain to the X-pipe, but install was for me approx. 15 hours over a weekend was much longer than the x pipe - a 2 hour job. Not a trivial installation, but worth the effort.

End of all this my car dyno'd at SAE corrected 218 hp / 281 tq.

[GraysonGT]

410s
Hooker LT Header
Flowmaster 2 chamber
K&N
Diablo

I love this car!

Not sure what to do next.

Maybe u/d pullies

[donsbad68]

OK, here's my mods with the numbers to back them up.

K&N drop in filter
First mod I did, install was 5 min. picked up 2.2 hp at the wheels

Flowmaster 40 series 2 chambers
Next mod, along with K&N, they dyno'd out to the tune of 9.7 hp to the wheels, plus you can never beat them at WOT. They scream.

Pro-5.0 shifter
What is there to say here? Install was a snap and how can you dyno a shifter? HAHA. Anywho I love the positive feel and the shorter throw.

Many other parts are laying in the shop.......I just have to get customers cars outta the way and have the nerve and time to play with mine!

Dustin

Unstable Racing of Oklahoma

[donsbad68]

Ok, update! To those of you that think taking the air silencer off is just BS.

Removed air silencer today and threw it on the dyno with the mods I previously stated and netted a 1.8 HP AVERAGE increase across the 1500-6500 RPM scale. Hey guys thats almost 2 HP at the wheels for free. Usually stuff like this is worthless to most of us, but come on you cant tell me u cant take 5 min to get 2hp for free! Easiest mod that has done anything to date!

[TARZAN]

Well, I have 4.10's at the house, waiting installation.

I'll post results.

REmoving the front sway bar did more than expected though

60' from consistent 2.3-2.4 to consistent 2.0-2.1



-Will

[~B7~]

Originally Posted by donsbad68

Ok, update! To those of you that think taking the air silencer off is just BS.

Removed air silencer today and threw it on the dyno with the mods I previously stated and netted a 1.8 HP AVERAGE increase across the 1500-6500 RPM scale. Hey guys thats almost 2 HP at the wheels for free. Usually stuff like this is worthless to most of us, but come on you cant tell me u cant take 5 min to get 2hp for free! Easiest mod that has done anything to date!

I just put mine back on (after a year w/o it) yesterday. Someone said that you gain hp but lose torque. Does anyone know if this is true? I would like to think that the air silencer brings in cooler air while the car is actually in motion, but what do I know?

To silence or not to silence?

[53BigDog]

Seeing that everyone has posted infor about my mods and they are fo r the most part right on, I figured I would just post incase there are any other 1997 GTs that are interested in find an opinion.

See sig for mods.

All mods were easy and like the gains even if they we cosmetic.

[StangLou]

As of today, I now have FRPP 3.73's and a Diablo Sport Chip on top of my Flowmaster 40's, BBK CAI, and Steeda Tri Ax

[Ruffrider]

K&N FIPK: Really easy to install, made a nice "whooshing" sound but I don't know how much, if any, power it added.

Bassani O/R X-Pipe: Another easy intall. I reused the stock gasket because the car had less than 1000 miles when the exhaust went on . I definately picked up so power off of this mod and din't lose any bottom end power like some people complain about.The qaulity is second to none, I love Bassani

Magnapack Cat-back: Installed it the same day as my X-Pipe. The sound these two parts make is AMAZING. I would never change my exhaust, and I wont have to since they are both made of stainless steel .

Pro 5.0 3.90s: The gears by far are the best mod I've done. The car is just so much more reponsive with them and being able to spin 4 gears is cool to. I'd recommend them as a first mod to everyone.

UPR Blue Thunder Shifter: Feels just like my Tri-Ax in my '88 GT except that it feels a lot more solid. I think its just because the '03 is newer and has the T-3650 in it. Great shifter for a great price though.

Steeda Aluminum Upper & Lower Control Arms: Car feels great with them, for some reason Im getting a lot more traction with my street tires. I di't think it would be that improved. I would have done them earlier if I knew they'd help this much.

[Dark Knight GT]

Originally Posted by ~B7~

I just put mine back on (after a year w/o it) yesterday. Someone said that you gain hp but lose torque. Does anyone know if this is true? I would like to think that the air silencer brings in cooler air while the car is actually in motion, but what do I know?

To silence or not to silence?

It will still draw the air from the fender without the silencer. The whole in the air box where the silencer once was is right next to the whole in the fenderwell. I dont see where its really going to cause you to loose torque either.

[ZIPP0]

Originally Posted by Dark Knight GT

It will still draw the air from the fender without the silencer. The whole in the air box where the silencer once was is right next to the whole in the fenderwell. I dont see where its really going to cause you to loose torque either.

Agreed, ...people that say you need the air silencer to suck in air from the fenderwell, obviously don't understand how an air induction system works.

[Ryan91Saleen]

hmm

[Ryan91Saleen]

hmm ok

[95.0Stang]

Maybe I missed it, but has anybody used a C&L inlet tube and MAF????

[Dark Knight GT]

Originally Posted by 95.0Stang

Maybe I missed it, but has anybody used a C&L inlet tube and MAF????

Conduct a search. Im sure someone on here has.

[Smooth_Operator]

Steeda Cold Air Intake - I saw a finite Change over 3000rpm's. Install was a snap.

Steeda High Flow Cat Back Exhaust - I think these puppies are really Borla Exhaust since that's what the box said, fiddled with by Steeda, any hoo Unique sound, no drone but roars if you get on it. Again no real change in the weather.

I'm new here, 1st post so howdy.

Quick questions, I'm new to the car world so to speak and I would like to modify my GT to make it a super sleeper but to keep it as a practical daily driver as well. Any suggestions would be great.

Also I would really like to S/C my car and was wondering if I should make any mods before S/C it? One more question what are the pro's/con's of say a vortech style S/C vs: a Kenne Bell style S/C? What will produce the most rwhp?

I apologize for all the questions for my first post but I really would like to to take my car to the next level. If these topics have all ready been addressed please point me in the right direction.

Thanks
-M-

[Pootiestang]

Originally Posted by Smooth_Operator

Steeda Cold Air Intake - I saw a finite Change over 3000rpm's. Install was a snap.

Steeda High Flow Cat Back Exhaust - I think these puppies are really Borla Exhaust since that's what the box said, fiddled with by Steeda, any hoo Unique sound, no drone but roars if you get on it. Again no real change in the weather.

I'm new here, 1st post so howdy.

Quick questions, I'm new to the car world so to speak and I would like to modify my GT to make it a super sleeper but to keep it as a practical daily driver as well. Any suggestions would be great.

Also I would really like to S/C my car and was wondering if I should make any mods before S/C it? One more question what are the pro's/con's of say a vortech style S/C vs: a Kenne Bell style S/C? What will produce the most rwhp?

I apologize for all the questions for my first post but I really would like to to take my car to the next level. If these topics have all ready been addressed please point me in the right direction.

Thanks
-M-

Welcome to the boards!!! For SCing advise just post a new thread about it in the 4.6 Tech section. But the guys in the power adder forum can probably do alot more for ya. Shouldn't be too much to do first, save for the little stuff unless you wanna forge the engine which never hurts. Gluck and again, welcome!

[4.6MustangSteve]

2003 Mustang GT 5spd

Magnaflow Cat-Back Exhaust
Sounds great. Can't really tell if there are any gains as I don't have headers or mid-pipe yet, but it sounds great.

Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Great mod. The shifts are so much better now, the throw is much shorter and everything is closer together. Feels great powering through the gears.

FRPP 4.10s
Awesome mod. The car pulls SO much harder now. 5th gear is now a power gear. My city mileage remained the same and my highway mileage went down slightly, but the gains are well worth that slight loss in mpg. I am still running the stock tires so traction is limited in 1st gear and launches are a bit harder now, but I quickly learned how to launch on the 245's. I would recommend some Nitto DR's or wider street tires if you go with the 4.10s to get the most out of them.

[Blue 98 GT]

Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers - worthless mod. no gains, very little sound improvement.
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter - worth more than the stock T-45 transmission. In reality, it just makes you want to buy a performance tranny. Great for cruising though. Loud.
BF Goodrich G-Force T/A KDW 275-40-17 tires - much better than stock tires! Better wet and dry traction, also 10.5" wide. Fits 17x8 rims snug. Minor rubbing up front.
Baer 13" Track Brakes (Front only) - Awesome mod! one of my favorites. If you have braking problems, get these! Spend the money... Fairly easy install.
DeMolet Densecharger - Felt a little gain from it. Not too much though.
FRPP King Cobra Clutch (10.5") - really didn't see a difference except a harder clutch pedal.
Steeda Adjustable Clutch Quadrant and Cable with UPR adjuster - nice inexpensive mod. takes away spongy clutch feel. I opted for the UPR adjuster b/c I heard the Steeda one was crappy. Happy with UPR adjuster.
Tremec 3550-TKO transmission - Throw out your T-45 or 3650! Imagine shifting without wondering if you're gonna blow up your tranny. RECOMMENDED! Also picked up .1 sec. 1/8 mi. with quicker shifts and closer gear ratios. Also the TKO is louder than my O/R x-pipe...
Steeda Tri-Ax shifter for TKO - I though it couldn't get better than a TKO until I installed Steeda's Tri-Ax on it! Awesome!
BBK 70mm Throttle Body - picked up .1 second 1/8th mile. Had odd idling problems for about 1000 miles. Had to raise idle to keep it from sticking.
Moser 31 spline axles, FRPP Trak-Lok 31 spline
differential, FRPP Aluminum Drive shaft, FRPP 4.10:1
Ring and Pinion gears, Summit Racing Bearing Kit,
Brother’s Performance housing seals, TA Aluminum Axle
Girdle, Redline 75w90 Gear oil, Ford Differential friction
modifier, 3" axle studs, 23 tooth speedometer gear - my rear-end mod to support a future boosted engine. 4.10's are great. Gas milage dropped about 3-4mpg. I can still hit 150mph though! Aluminum D/S took a lot of vibrations out of the new TKO. 3" studs stick out past the center cap. Cut holes in cap!
Lakewood Driveshaft Loop - $40 mod that could save your undercarriage/car
Bassani Off-road X-Pipe - Pretty loud. Sounds TERRIBLE with chambered mufflers (Dynomax Super-Turbo). Gained about 1.5 tenths in 1/8 mi. Had to buy MIL eliminators to keep "check engine" light off.
BF Goodrich Comp T/A Drag Radials 275-50-15 - Needed if you have 4.10 gears. Can't really hook without them. I ran 9.30's (1/8 mi.)without them, and 8.95 (1.8 mi.) with them. Put them on 15" v6 wheels. They bulge a little.
NGK TR-55 Spark Plugs - Didn't notice any power gains, but felt smoother than crappy Bosch Platinums.
AutoMeter Shift Light - This is kind of a mod, but it sure helps with drag racing. It allows you to keep your eyes on the ROAD instead of the TACH!
Bassani After-Cat Exhaust System - This inlcuded everything after the X-pipe. Sounds really nice and LOUD. Absolutely no performance gains for my car. No losses either...

[AutomaticWeapon]

good post Blue 98 GT.

-Mike

[chicks-dig-it]

First of all, great thread!!! The more feedback the better, IMO. I'm a very new mustang owner and can contribute views from a newbie's standpoint. I think I have some things to add that aren't spelled out for us in the parts' directions.
2003 Black/Tan GT Vert
Installs are in order:

BBK 75mm Throttle body: Easy install for a newbie. Had a problem with the throttle position sensor screws (nasty locktite) since I didn't have an impact wrench, but if you find a way to drill/cut the screw caps off, the sensor will slide off the threads easily. Pull straight up on the cruise control cable on the throttle body (since it's hard to see, it took a minute to verify)to disconnect. Installed it and saw that the upper intake plenum was noticably smaller in diameter...hmm. Sticky throttle but adjusting the idle setting with an allen wrench(METRIC?) fixed that. SOTP didn't notice much of a gain here, BUT----------->

BBK Fenderwell Cold Air Intake If anything, it looks terrific. Some random dudes at the performance shop stopped in their tracks to look. Again, easy install for the newbie, but be familiar with the names of basic engine parts and hoses. After hearing a noticable whooshing sound, I thought I had a bad air leak when I took it out the first time, but good 'ol Brad at the perfomance shop checked my set up for leaks and confirmed that this was absolutly normal. I also read in the forum someone had this, too. Also, there was a mesh screen between the mass air sensor and the filter that sure confused the hell out of me. Why was it there with the stock intake? It looked restrictive, so I just set it aside. Now I'm noticing the gains when I step on it!

With these two mods, I feel that I can claim 10 more horses. I think that the intake plenum may have to go next for the C&L True Flow. I want the air flowing just right before heading to exhaust bolt-ons. Looking to get BBK headers and the Steeda Cat back. Real quick, do the new headers require another X/H pipe or will stock fit it?

Paul

[Dark Knight GT]

Here is a review of my induction modifications.


BBK Cold Air Induction Kit: Not a good mod. Made of chrome plated metal and has a bend in front of the MAF meter which can cause the car to run rich. Noticed a slight increase in throttle response. Other than that, I had no results with it. I since then have replaced it with a K&N FIPK Gen. II syste.

K&N FIPK Gen.II system: I purchased this piece in the from of a trade with 760-MPH(a member on here). I traded him a K&N filter for his Mach 1 for his K&N FIPK system he had for his old 02 GT. The kit wasnt too hard to install. Lining up the gaskets was a bit tricky but none the less got it done. Overall, the kit is nice. Stays cooler than metal intake parts because its made of plastic and gave a nice SOTP gain over the BBK cold air induction kit. Probably because it lacks the 90 degree bend in front of the MAF meter. Good piece.

FRPP 70mm throttle body: This piece was a waste of money. I tried it on my GT and the only thing I gained was throttle response. I since have switched back to my stock 65mm throttle body after I ported and polished it. I noticed with the 70mm throttle body there is a loss of power in the low rpms compared to the stock 65mm throttle body. There apparently isnt a noticeable different between the two on top end. Personally, I like the stock 65mm throttle body better.

1/2in. Intake spacer: Install wasnt too bad. Kind of hard to get the EGR tube re-connected though since everything is up 1/2in. further. I installed this piece the same time I ported and polished my upper intake. Noticed a slight increase in take off and a bit harder pull on top end. Wether it was the intake spacer, p&p upper intake, or both, I dont know. Didnt notice a loss in power either. Ive seen dynos that have shown this piece to be worth a couple rwhp. Ive also never seen any before/after time slips or dyno's which show a loss either. Overall, its an ok piece. I feel it actually works but I dont have any solid proof to document this either.

Ported and polished upper intake: I did this to my stock upper intake using a dremel kit and sandpaper. I did this the same time I installed the intake spacer. I noticed a seat of the pants gain and a bit harder pull on top end. How much power I gained, I cannot say since I didnt have any before/after dyno's performed. In my honest opinion, this is worth doing. If you can find the time and have a dremel kit, just do it yourself. Its worth a shot.

[ga01blkgt]

01 Black Gt 5 Speed modded in this order:

2 Chamber Flowmasters welded into stock system - sounded just like every other Stang on the street but better than the stock mufflers.

Bassani X-pipe with cats and MIL eliminators - added a more muscular sound to the flows and seemed to free up breathing. Mils done just in case SES light tripped.

FRP 3.73 rearend gear - should have done the 4.10 but was told that I would not be able to go above 130 mph on top end. NOT!!!! Switching to the 4.10 soon to get back the 3/10's of a second I lost going to 18" rims tires.

FRP 70MM Throttle body - seemed to get better throttle response with the throttle body and the K/N again freed up exhaust breatheability.

80MM C&L Mass air and 9" conical K/N - seemed like the car was pulling more air in and loved the "whoosh" sound when the car was shut off. Never had an idle that others suffered.

Suspension Technique lower springs and Carrera shock/strut package - lowering springs were not low enough so I cut 1.5 coils out of the rear and 1 out of the front since the install. The Carrera shock and strut package was had on a deal with Dugan Racing. Quality on the same level as Bilsteins and struts are rebuildable. Took away the floatiness of the stock suspension and the feeling of "sitting on top of the car" with the stock height instead of sitting in it.
X2C coilover kit ordered and will be installed after 10/24/2003. (allows for raise and lowering of height and takes weight off the car)

ASP pullies- felt no real difference in the performance of the car but you really won't feel anything below 10 rwhp anyway.

Steeda Timing Adjustor - set a 13 degrees and car felt livelier after the install. Bolted right up to the ASP pulley kit.

FRP Aluminum driveshaft - took weight off the car and it seemed to spool up a bit faster.

Densecharger from Throttle body to Mass air- Loved it and still do. Plastic intake is the way to go because metal conducts heat so the BBK and Mac just look nice to me. Wonder why most companies use plactic now huh?? 4" tubing is huge and did not want to mount the mass air down in the fenderwell due to the fact that C&L stated that you will experience idle problems and the filter needs to be mounted directly to the Mass air.

FRP shorty headers - ported by Atlanta Chasis and Dyno prior to install. Went against conventional wisdom regarding long tubes because I happen to like a lowered car and my driveway is at a 30 degree incline all the way up.

Steeda clutch/quadrant adjustable kit - little did I realize that my clutch was slipping but thought that I just needed to tighten it up. Should have done the clutch instead.

Steeda subframe connectors - strengthened the chasis and car felt tighter; sort of like tightening your own belt.

Steeda aluminum upper contol arms/Pro3i lower control arms - again to take away more of the Mustang's tendency to float.

Steeda G-Trac bar and Steeda rear sway bar - continued to tighten everything up and allowed for the car to plant better (upper and lower control arms helped also) and gained the ability to take corners much better.

Pro3i camber and caster plates - c/c plates a MUST with a lowered car unless you want your tires to wear on the inside and corrects front wheel "bow".

Steeda Triax - shortened throws. Nuff said.

18" rim/tire package - wanted a more muscular look. Originally had real 00 Cobra R rims 18X9.5 rims with Kumho Ecstas (245/40f and 275/35r). I have since switched to 18x9f and 18X10r Hyperblack Saleen replica wheels. Sweet. (9/03)

Wrecked the car in February 2003 to a tune of 9K in damage.
Got the car back in March 2003 and to the track 2 weeks later. (April)
Ran 14.091@99.80 mph at Silver Dollar with slipping clutch on 2" dropped suspension and 18" wheels in April 2003 with mods listed above.

Since then.....

Intake spacer - caught up in the moment. Nuff said.

Mac Prochamber - Took Bassani off and put Prochamber on since this was the big thing at the time. Felt more of a pull up top without cats but power gain maybe 3 horsepower. Getting tired of the hollow sound of the Prochamber and will be switching back to the Bassani with cats soon.

Dynotune - Dynoed at 243hp and 287tq at the rear wheels. Dynotune with Diablo chip yielded 256.6rwhp/302.2tq. Car felt stronger and rev limiter taken off. Made a mistake and added 3 more degeees of timing with Steeda t/a and car was strong but too much timing added in. Timing adjustor backed down to 10 TDC on 10/20/2003. Car feels better now.

Aluminum water pump and pulley kit from RPM Outlet - took weight off the front and water pump pulley is smaller than ASP water pump pulley. The pulley also weighs only 10 oz at best. Took 11.3lbs off the front of the car. Good mod.

Motorvator throttle body spacer - it whistles!! Not sure of any performance gain.

C&L upper Intake Pleunm - ported and smoothed prior to putting this one one. Love this mod because it sucks like a
prostitute at a Japanese businessman's convention!! Car pulls better in all gears; especially third where we historically have a dead spot. Along with the 4" Densecharger and TB spacer, makes a means ass sound. No leaks!!!!
Can't wait for the lower plenum to be complete.

Dynomx Race Bullett mufflers - 3 inch inlet and straight thru design welded into stock system and cut Flows out. States for "Race use Only" but I love the sound. Different than other Stangs around. Still feel like the Flows choked me off.

Visual changes are fiberglass Cobra R hood, Hyperblack Saleen replica wheels (now), 00 Cobra R wing, Bullitt side scoops, 03 Cobra side skirts, shortened billett antenna, Mach 1 chin spoiler and 30% tint. I ahve since taken my Cobra R wing off (10/18/2003) and put back on the stock wing moved back 2". Deciding on what look I ultimately want.

Reese

[ga01blkgt]

Damn, forgot the Spec II clutch - bites like a pitbull......

Reese

[AutomaticWeapon]

Originally Posted by ga01blkgt

FRP 3.73 rearend gear - should have done the 4.10 but was told that I would not be able to go above 130 mph on top end. NOT!!!!

where the hell are you planning to drive 130 mph?

-Mike