[99 FL PONY GT]

I don't know what I should do next and which would be better for my car and it's mods.

My car is basically a '99 GT with many bolt-ons and also an automatic.

I've been hearing conflicting stories on longtube headers on yes its a good bolt-on but is it really for what I've got done.....will I be making my car slower by adding longtubes because I'll lose any backpressure? My car doesn't have a blower, but has quite a few of the popular bolt ons.

Would a stall converter be the way to go to finally get into the 13s....my best @ Moroso last fall was a 14.1 @ 99.73 miles an hour...I'm also at least 50 lbs overweight husky big boned so I feel my car should already be in the high 13s with a lighter driver.....but the bottom end sucks the power comes all from the high revs halfway down the track....the first half I'm like comeon bitch move then she kicks in a makes a rush at the last half.

What stall converter do you all recommend and what speed for mostly street and some strip.....I have 3:73s already.

Anyone know of a very good tranny specialist in South Florida...or Florida.

Let me know your thoughts longtube (but remember to check my signature of mods before you comment) or stall converter.

[BO94ZA4]

Get a 2800-3200 converter.

[foncarelli]

I have a 2800 stall from Pecision Industries. Combined with the gears should put you over that 14sec. mark. Or try an H-pipe instead of Longtubes.

[99 FL PONY GT]

I have an offroad H Pipe in the Mac ProChamber.

Can you tell me more about the Precision Industries Stall converter.....how much who sells them for a reasonable price.

What about the Transgo shift kit.....where do you get that and how much? Are the shifts smooth like the factory or hard/jerky like a rollercoaster.

I really need to drive a car with these mods and see for myself but most Stangs are Sticks and the only autos are less modded than mine?

Need someone to mentor me and make me feel comfortable with making the tranny mod.....anyone up it. Would love to drive or be driven in someone's modded automatic to see for myself.....anyone in S.FLA?

Thanks

[JuicinSmurf]

Hopefully someone can shed some more light on the LT situation. Without much background in terms of the effects of lower backpressure, my opinion would be to go ahead with the longtubes. The concensus seems to be that you get around 15rwhp with them---which IMO would offset the amount of BP you lose.

For overall effect, I think you would be happier with the TC if you're more of a track junkie, which is what it sounds like you are.

Keep us all updated

Pete

[bamf70]

First off for better performance you should have chosen 4.10s. With a Gear, you should also be running DRs for best performance. A Tq Converter, shift kit, trans cooler and chip would make your car feel like a different animal. You already seem to have a few suspension mods done to let converter/shift kit really make a difference. If you couple that with a set of DRs, I would think mid to low 13s would be possible.

FYI, those chrome rims are heavy and have probably added .1 - .2 to your ET (assuming you run them at the track).

As far as LTs, they are a great mod period. They will add 10-20rwhp on a 2V and there is no need to worry about backpressure. My best run was with my LTs, o/r H pipe and MagnaPacks. You could pretty much put a snake in my tip and not stop until you hit exhaust valve. You would be fine with installing them, but I suggest a converter, shift kit, trans cooler and DRs before you spend the 1200+ for LTs, new mid pipe and install. Just my $0.02.

[Dark Knight GT]

I have an 01 auto GT. If you ask me, the best mods for an auto GT is Transmission mods. Get the following mods.

Transmission cooler( which you already have )
Torque converter( around 3k rpm stall ).
Shift kit ( Jerry mod or Transgo ).
Aluminum driveshaft ( buy one for a five speed then swap yokes).
4.10 gears. I see you already have 3.73s. If theyre not installed, sell them or send them back and get 4.10's instead. My brother tried 3.73's in his 01 GT. He likes them but kinda wishes he did 4.10's.

Also, I have Long tube headers, Mac prochamber, and mac cat back installed on the car. I dont seem to have much of a problem with backpressure. To be honest, I love my exhuast setup. Nice low rumble when driving but screams when you lay on it. Pulls really nice too. Especially past 3k rpms. I see you already have the prochamber and a flowmaster cat-back. The prochamber and long tube combo produces about 22-24 rwhp on most GT's. You'll probably gain about 12-14rwhp with the addition of long tubes to your combo.

As far as which one you should choose, its gonna depend on what you like. A new torque converter will get you out of the whole quicker. The long tubes will help you more on top end and will give you an impresive sounding motor. In the end, I feel transmission mods will do more for your acceleration, shifts, and overall performance than exhuast will. If you ask me, save your money and do both.

[Dark Knight GT]

One other thing. You asked about what kind of shifts does a shift kit give you. Well, I have the Jerry mod shift kit and Steeda transmission cooler in my car. I seem to like them. Shifts are nice and come quick. No worries about hitting the rev-limiter at wide open throttle. When the car shifts from 1st to 2nd gear at wide open throttle, hold on. It will throw you back in your seat and will bark your tires if you have standard street tires. All in all, I like the Jerry mod shift kit. It works great with my S-03 potenza's .

[99 FL PONY GT]

Thanks for the replies and posts......can you guys give me more info on pricing and where to get the Jerry mod or transgo shift kit. Also where to buy the Precision Industries Torque Converter and what does these things cost.......do you have to tear apart the tranny?

Any good tranny shops in S.Fla you would recommend.
I really would love to be in someone's auto who has these mods before spending all this money and possibly not be happy.

I bet I'd be smiling every time I hit the accelerator....

Let me know.

[san~man]

Originally Posted by 99 FL PONY GT

Thanks for the replies and posts......can you guys give me more info on pricing and where to get the Jerry mod or transgo shift kit. Also where to buy the Precision Industries Torque Converter and what does these things cost.......do you have to tear apart the tranny?

Any good tranny shops in S.Fla you would recommend.
I really would love to be in someone's auto who has these mods before spending all this money and possibly not be happy.

I bet I'd be smiling every time I hit the accelerator....

Let me know.

Get rid of the 3.73's. If you're staying N/A, get 4.10's.

A good TC will cost you about 700 or so. I got a PI 2800 stallion convertor, and am very happy with it. I personally got mine from Houston Performance. Give Steve a call, he's a good guy. Driving with a new TC will be strange at first. You'll notice "slippage" more than before, meaning that it'll take more revs before the car starts moving. Depending on the stall, your car will start to roll later than before from a dead stop on a flat road. You'll get use to it, don't worry.

The Jerry Mod will be hard, unless you can find someone who can drill the seperator plates for you. If not, you'll have to do what I did: buy a brand new one, have someone drill it for you, and then sell your old one. Dom did mine for me (RFFPerformance.com), so you can give him a call and he can get you prices. Driving around town, you'd hardly notice it was there until you hammer the accelerator. Normal shifting is BETTER than stock...quicker and less noticable.

If you don't already, get a good trans cooler. Most of us have the B&M 28k GVW cooler, about 60 bux from Summit. Heat kills the trans.

IMO, get the LT's. You won't look back. The difference in power is very noticable, especially in the upper RPMs. I got the Hooker LT's and matching X pipe.

Also, make sure you have someone competent to do your chip. Fordchip, Dennis Reinhart, and RFFPerformance all specialize in auto trannies. If done wrong, your shift points will be off, and your torque convertor lockup schedule will be wrong and you'll hate life.

Good luck.

[jsp01gt]

Get the Stall!! Thats one my my next mods without a doubt. I'm getting the PI 3200 stall and a transgo shift kit from the same place. I think this in itself will knock off about .5 or more. I have the same rims that you do and they're definently adding time. Good luck and find a better track than Moroso.

[99 FL PONY GT]

San Man,

Is the 2800 PI a lock up convertor?

I'm ignorant to this Jerry Mod....is it a shift kit or something you do to your existing tranny parts? I'm definitely not playing with the tranny...I'm not qualified and wouldn't try even if they included a instructional tape.

I had my SuperChips installed @ Steeda who also adjusted the shift points when I put in my 3:73s and I did notice and was happy when they put the chip in the shift points are nice and smooth so I guess I could go back to Steeda after putting in 4:10s.....now I drive about 1.5 hrs on the highway......will I still be able to hit 110 with no problem on the highway and how much worse is gas mileage from 3:73 to 4:10s?

[san~man]

Originally Posted by 99 FL PONY GT

San Man,

Is the 2800 PI a lock up convertor?

I'm ignorant to this Jerry Mod....is it a shift kit or something you do to your existing tranny parts? I'm definitely not playing with the tranny...I'm not qualified and wouldn't try even if they included a instructional tape.

I had my SuperChips installed @ Steeda who also adjusted the shift points when I put in my 3:73s and I did notice and was happy when they put the chip in the shift points are nice and smooth so I guess I could go back to Steeda after putting in 4:10s.....now I drive about 1.5 hrs on the highway......will I still be able to hit 110 with no problem on the highway and how much worse is gas mileage from 3:73 to 4:10s?

PI sells both, lock up and non locking. You want a lock up convertor.

The Jerry Mod can be found here....www.tccoa.com / tech articles/transmissions/modifying valve body to Jerry's specifications. Basically, you take apart the existing valve body and drill different sized holes in the seperator plates. You also remove some springs as spec'd by Jerry. It's free if you can do it yourself, but you'll need some specialty drill bits and knowledge.

Your chip, it's your call. When you start getting into the torque convertor schedules, I'd go with one of the three I recommended. You can always sell your chip to re-coup some money.

110mph?....no problem....I did 135 passing the lightning the other day...heehee

[99 FL PONY GT]

San Man

Thanks for the info thus far as I'm trying to get as much info without the benefit of being in someone's car with these couple of tranny mods- a stall convertor and shift kit or Jerry Mod.

Again, anyone in S.Florida or Florida for that matter who can assist by giving me a test drive even as a passenger I'd be extremelt thankful........I usually hangout @ the infamous Tower Shops In Davie on a Friday night (over 300 classic Muscle, Street Rods, & Late Model Sports cars and open yr. round even has a DJ and vendors.) I'd also be grateful for any Great transmission shops in S. Florida or Florida who would know how to do the Jerry Mod and has done a lot of work on these late models.

Can you give me more info on Ford Chip such as a URL.
Also RFF claims on their website with their chip you don't need a shift kit...do you know anything about that?

Appreciate the help guys and San Man.....sounds like these Mods are just about the same in cost to do the Longtubes.
The more info one can give me the better....its early now but I'll get with Houston Performance and RFF and pick their brains as well.

Again, anyone in FLA. help me out here!

[san~man]

Originally Posted by 99 FL PONY GT

Can you give me more info on Ford Chip such as a URL.
Also RFF claims on their website with their chip you don't need a shift kit...do you know anything about that?

Appreciate the help guys and San Man.....sounds like these Mods are just about the same in cost to do the Longtubes.
The more info one can give me the better....its early now but I'll get with Houston Performance and RFF and pick their brains as well.

Well, you prolly have to email Dom since he's real busy. It's true, without an aftermarket TC, you don't need a shift kit. But when you do change the TC, the shifts will be sloppy w/o one. Ask Dom about the Jerry Mod...he'll give you the dealios.

The TC, chip, shift kit, and tranny cooler with labor will end up being more than the LT's, but the gains will be much greater. I paid 250.00 in labor, including all fluids (all that Mercon), to install the TC and valve body. This was a "side job" by a local Ford mechanic. I think it was more than reasonable.

Adding up the rough costs: 700 (TC) + 60 (cooler) + 300 (new valve body with Jerry Mod) + 250 (labor), and you're at 1310 or so. The LT's will be a bit less, but the gains won't be as noticable. Don't forget to add another 400 or so for the gear swap (recommended). You'll notice the trans mods the first time you mash the gas pedal.

www.fordchip.com

[99 FL PONY GT]

Question,

I'm on the Precision Industries Web site and I see 2 9.5 inch lock-up torque convertorsfor AODE. One states single disc, the other multidisk 3 plate......which one is the one to get.....do you have a part#?

Thanks.

[san~man]

Originally Posted by 99 FL PONY GT

Question,

I'm on the Precision Industries Web site and I see 2 9.5 inch lock-up torque convertorsfor AODE. One states single disc, the other multidisk 3 plate......which one is the one to get.....do you have a part#?

Thanks.

The multi disc one is if you're running a lot of power. I believe I have the single disc one.

[Abso]

Also, I hear if you are going with a T/C there are two kinds besides lock and non-lock. These are the positive and negative T/Cs. It has to do with the fins on the turbine and the direction they face. From everything I hear the postives are better. The have a lot less slip, so they perform better. I live in Southern California and have a shop near me that specializes in them. Its owned by Art Carr, NHRA legend. This guy has been doing transmissions for 40 years. BTW, do not confuse with the Art Carr shop in Texas. They bought it off of him, including the name rights. You will pay a bit more here, but for a better product. He also has some really nice shift kits, far better than the Trans-go crap.

[Bone Racing]

pi stallion converter

[BlackArtemis]

1200 for LT's a pipe? i got a set of used (low miles) bbk ceramic and catted H for 350 shipped, and you can get cheaper than that. I got a headache driving around behind and in friend's cars with o/r pipes :/

[aj1025]

I can't get over your car want run in the 13's with all the mods you have, you have way more mods than me, and with the mods in my sig my car runs consistant 13.8's and 13.60's @102 when the track is prepped right and that's on 245'sx17x8.5 on street tires, i'm sure if i had slicks or radials i could get a 13.3 easily.My car still has the factory 3.27's. With the extra mods you have on me and if you had drag radials or slicks, you should be able to get into the 12's. One big plus with your car is that you have suspension work done to it here and there, that should really help for when your launching.

[san~man]

Originally Posted by aj1025

I can't get over your car want run in the 13's with all the mods you have, you have way more mods than me, and with the mods in my sig my car runs consistant 13.8's and 13.60's @102 when the track is prepped right and that's on 245'sx17x8.5 on street tires, i'm sure if i had slicks or radials i could get a 13.3 easily.My car still has the factory 3.27's. With the extra mods you have on me and if you had drag radials or slicks, you should be able to get into the 12's. One big plus with your car is that you have suspension work done to it here and there, that should really help for when your launching.

Not necessarily. The type of springs he has makes his car less of a drag racer and more of a "handler." Your stock springs are actually better for drag racing than his.

If you were to compare 60's with him, yours are probably lower, hence your lower ET's.

[aj1025]

Well lower times also come with more practice, elevation, and track conditions, the track i run at often is concrete in the box for about 100 ft. then the rest of the track is asphalt which hooks up better if prepped right.

[san~man]

Originally Posted by aj1025

Well lower times also come with more practice, elevation, and track conditions, the track i run at often is concrete in the box for about 100 ft. then the rest of the track is asphalt which hooks up better if prepped right.

Absolutely, but if your suspension setup isn't meant for drag racing, your 60ft times will only get so good, no matter how much practice you have.

We have to consider all of the variables in 99 FL's equation before we can anaylze his times.