[streetstang67]

My sig has most of my engine specs...I was looking into getting better heads, cam, and a stall converter to match. The only things I want to change are the heads, cam and stall...I want to keep my current gears, headers, intake, and carb. I want the parts to match, because I've heard over and over how that is so important. I'd also like to keep the price low, no set budget, but as far under $1500 as possible would be good. So what heads, cam, and stall do you suggest I get that match each other as well as the parts I currently have. Also, around how much hp will I have?

[Edbert]

A quality stall converter is going to run $300+ and can easily be closer to $500. Generally speaking anything over 2400 needs a significantly warmed up mill to work right. My converter is a 2800-3000.

A good set of heads for tight budgets are the aluminum GT40 units from Ford. You can get MUCH better heads than those but they're gonna run over $1,000 and blow your budget.

If you get the GT40 aluminum heads you're gonna want a more aggressive intake IMHO too. If you insist on keeping the performer then give up the idea of new heads and just have yours port matched.

Camshaft recomendations will vary greatly among the gurus here (and they're all right) but with stock heads and the perfromer intake I'd get one in the .475 lift range and the 250-260 total duration. If you want the GT40 heads you can get a bigger one but even the GT40 heads have smallish valves and should not get a radical cam.

[streetstang67]

Please also post a hp or quarter mile estimate with your advice, because thats the best way I can compare different combos.

Thanks

[Edbert]

Originally Posted by streetstang67

Please also post a hp or quarter mile estimate with your advice, because thats the best way I can compare different combos.

FWHP is not too hard to estimate, quarter mile times have too many variables to be accurate.

Stock '67 289 Mustangs ran high 15 or low 16 second quarters and made 210FWHP with a 2v and 225 with the 4v.

Do the aluminum GT40 heads, change that intake to the performer RPM, get a cam in the range I suggested and you'll be just over the 300 range on FWHP.

Get some better heads (TW PerfRPM AFR etc.), and a cam in the .500+ lift and 280 total duration and you'll be over 365 or so.

With 350FWHP you should see low 14s and maybe even high 13s assuming everything else is in your favor. Get the FWHP up towards 400 and the high 12s are not too hard.

EDIT:Check your PMs

[Fostang]

You only need about 300 rwhp and good traction to make it turn out 12's.

I already told you a combo that I know would work.

[D.Hearne]

How about a set of ported stock iron heads, a cam in the 280-290 duration, and a stall of around 2000? With your 3.55 rear you don't really need a higher stall converter. All these combined will keep you under budget and even allow upgrading your carb and intake to a 650 and a better intake (something like the Ford A321, Edelbrock's older F4b or an RPM can be had used for $100-150) . My Ranger ran just such a combo with a 4 speed and ran high 14's but it weighs in at 3600lbs, a good 800 lbs heavier than your 67.