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10-26-06, 02:58 PM
| | Member | | Join Date: October 2006
Posts: 41
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Did you get the turbo's from a manual turbocoupe or auto? Do they come with the correct wastegates to build at least 6-8PSI or do I need to buy something else for them?
Also which one do you have because I see one is watercooled and the other is oil fed:
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled)
Got it from here: http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=4365.0
I like your setup seems pretty straightfoward only thing confusin me right now is did you have to splice any wires to run that 3.5"(90mm) MAF that you had before the squirter? Will any Pro-M universal work as long as there programmed for the 42lbs injectors? Where did you have the MAF mounted, pass. fender? Would a BOV go before or after the MAF? And when you ordered the B&G headers did the flange they come with the turbo fit just right or do you tell them what turbo you plan on running first when you order them?
Last edited by ritc; 10-26-06 at 03:17 PM.
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10-26-06, 03:38 PM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
Posts: 1,935
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Originally Posted by ritc Did you get the turbo's from a manual turbocoupe or auto? Do they come with the correct wastegates to build at least 6-8PSI or do I need to buy something else for them?
Also which one do you have because I see one is watercooled and the other is oil fed:
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled)
Got it from here: http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=4365.0
I like your setup seems pretty straightfoward only thing confusin me right now is did you have to splice any wires to run that 3.5"(90mm) MAF that you had before the squirter? Will any Pro-M universal work as long as there programmed for the 42lbs injectors? Where did you have the MAF mounted, pass. fender? Would a BOV go before or after the MAF? And when you ordered the B&G headers did the flange they come with the turbo fit just right or do you tell them what turbo you plan on running first when you order them? | The only difference between the auto and manual tubo is one has a .48 housing and one has a .63. I beleive the both should be watercooled for those years. The .63 housings are more desireable...however you can use the .48's and switch to the .63 housings any time you want. They are interchangeable. I myself am using the .48's as they are easier to find. I also have one watercooled and one oil cooled turbo. They are a bit of a pain to plumb to the cooling system....and some argue that due to the open air in the 5.0 engine bay, the cooling is not even needed.
As far as the wasegates go, they are factory set to 8psi. If you have an intercooler you should figure a loss of ~ .5-1 psi from restriction.
The maf I used was cal'd for a 96-98 mustang. I modified the pigtail to fit into the connector and lengthened the wires to the meter. The maf was mounted in the passenger side fenderwell...and if you plan on using a bof and a maf, you'll need to mount the bov before the meter so you dont vent metered air.
The B&G headers come with any flange you want. The t3 flange is what is on the turbocoupe turbos...and the fit is perfect.  |
10-26-06, 04:45 PM
| | Member | | Join Date: October 2006
Posts: 41
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Thanks a lot for the all the answers you cleared up a lot for me glad to have members llike you on here that liked to have there brains picked  , what I asked was what I was most concerned about because as far as the hotside plumbing and intercooler piping which doesnt seem like much from your setup will be taken care of by a family friend who's a 20yr+ metal fabricator so basically i'd be payin just for material.
So from what your sayin that the stock .45trims come with 8lbs springs, I should just be able to put them both on with an intercooler with similiar dimensions to yours and expect somewhere around 6-7PSI? About the MAF's would a Pro-M calibrated for 42lbs for my 91 require no modification like your 96-98 MAF needed?(other than the lengthened wires)
And what do you mean by you have one watercooled and another oil? Can the 85-87 turbo's be watercooled and/or oil cooled? And by the people you mention that say they wouldnt need to be watercooled, would that mean I would just run oil feed and drain to the turbo's and be done with it? One more question about the hotside outlet on the turbo is there a custom flange that to be bolted there to go into a 2.5"/3" downpipe or is something an exhaust/fabrication place can work with?
What would have to be removed from this turbo to make it work: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-...QQcmdZViewItem
I just wanna know what to look for and take with me when I go lookin for good condtions one in the junkyard.
Last edited by ritc; 10-26-06 at 04:51 PM.
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10-26-06, 06:05 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
Posts: 1,935
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Hey...no problem.
Actually...both are considered 60 trim t3 turbos. I'd say 6psi is on the low side. I'd expect 7-8psi with a similar sized/effeciency intercooler. There is no spring..but rather a diaphram in the wastegate.
I'm not sure what year your stang is...but if it's 87-93 it should be fine.
I have no Idea which ones are oil cooled and which ones are water...nor why. I know that they both exist...and both have the same internals. You dont need to run the cooling lines to the centersection as I stated before...so they would just be oil cooled regardless.
You have a couple of options on the hotside outlet. You could do what I did and chop the housing that the wastegate attaches to. This is commonly known as the swing valve. You would then weld the downpipe to the cut swingvalve and be done with it. You could also buy a volvo swingvalve assembly which has a 3 bolt mounting flange. You would have to buy/fabricate a mating flange to the swingvalve. A search on turbomustangs should clear up any confusion.
As far as removing from the turbo...you'll need to just remove the header. Everything else should be useable.
One more thing...here is a link on how to modify the stock wastegates to a lower boost level. This is the only way I know of to do so with the factory style setup. http://www.denverspeed.com/wastegates.html
Last edited by millhouse; 10-26-06 at 06:13 PM.
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03-21-08, 04:04 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
Posts: 1,935
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03-21-08, 04:06 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
Posts: 1,935
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03-21-08, 04:33 PM
|  | Official Member | | Join Date: April 2004 Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 1,367
| |  congrats on finishing it! |
03-21-08, 04:45 PM
|  | it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end | | Join Date: November 2003 Location: Near Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 3,175
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Hell yeah man, very nice work. I love how you put it together without cutting up the inner fenders. Well done
I would try to make a sheetmetal heat shield to go between the intake plumbing and the passenger size turbo...that's pretty close. |
03-21-08, 04:49 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
Posts: 1,935
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Originally Posted by 85_SS_302_Coupe  Hell yeah man, very nice work. I love how you put it together without cutting up the inner fenders. Well done
I would try to make a sheetmetal heat shield to go between the intake plumbing and the passenger size turbo...that's pretty close. | Thanks! I really wanted to get it together without hacking anything up...and I think it turned out alright!
Surprisingly, the intake tube adjacent to the exhaust blanket doesn't get that hot. Between the blanket, the small air gap and the wrap on the cold side it seems to be just fine. |
03-21-08, 04:52 PM
| | it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end | | Join Date: November 2003 Location: Near Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 3,175
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03-21-08, 04:59 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
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Originally Posted by 85_SS_302_Coupe | Yep... it was something that really got me looking at twins long before I started my build. I am using just stock t3's....and evenutally I should have no problems laying down 10 second timeslips of my own (on a 302 instead of a 351 however). |
03-21-08, 05:02 PM
| | it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end | | Join Date: November 2003 Location: Near Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 3,175
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Sweet...now you just need to get two T3/T4 hybrids and a built aftermarket block and you'll really be rippin it up. |
03-21-08, 05:09 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
Posts: 1,935
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Originally Posted by 85_SS_302_Coupe Sweet...now you just need to get two T3/T4 hybrids and a built aftermarket block and you'll really be rippin it up. | Aftermarket block being the key word.
Really though, my exhuast housings are too small...so I'll swap em out for their .63 counterparts which will give me the top end charge my cam needs. The broader h/p torque curve should help my current combo out just that much more. |
03-21-08, 08:06 PM
|  | Official Member | | Join Date: August 2003 Location: Ashley, Ohio
Posts: 733
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Looks really good |
03-21-08, 08:54 PM
|  | Official Member | | Join Date: August 2006 Location: Niagara ,Ontario, Canada
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first thing ! being a welder i can say your welds are terrible ! you should have gotten a welder to do it for you! second where the hell are you building this thing in chicken coup with a dirt floor? all this being said if your doing and building to the best of your capabilities then good for you! hope it turns out the way you want! but judging by the pics of the car and stuff with that turbo you might just rip that car in half!! with the horse power and torque your making!
Last edited by fastford91; 03-21-08 at 08:57 PM.
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03-21-08, 09:19 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
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Originally Posted by fastford91 first thing ! being a welder i can say your welds are terrible ! you should have gotten a welder to do it for you! second where the hell are you building this thing in chicken coup with a dirt floor? all this being said if your doing and building to the best of your capabilities then good for you! hope it turns out the way you want! but judging by the pics of the car and stuff with that turbo you might just rip that car in half!! with the horse power and torque your making! | While my welds may not be perfect...they are quite functional. The only thing that a professional welder would have given me would have been a few more hours of my time and an empty wallet. This is the whole point of a DIY turbo project...and the budget is always high on the priority.
It's so far been 3 years since those pictures and the welds have been holding just fine. It just so happens that the worst welds were the ones with the close up pics (I was adjusting wire feed...and yes, this was my first weld job) while the best are the least visible. While looking at the engine compartment however, you will see no welds...as they have been either all ground down, wrapped with header wrap...or both. I'm not sure why your concerned with me welding on a dirt (actually pea stone) floor. There was virtually no dust from it...and it's not like I was painting the damn thing.
Keep in mind...again, this was done 3 years ago, and it has handled daily driver abuse as well as dragstrip and dyno runs. |
03-21-08, 11:34 PM
|  | Founding Member | | Join Date: December 2001 Location: Jefferson, WI
Posts: 1,362
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Originally Posted by fastford91 first thing ! being a welder i can say your welds are terrible ! you should have gotten a welder to do it for you! second where the hell are you building this thing in chicken coup with a dirt floor? all this being said if your doing and building to the best of your capabilities then good for you! hope it turns out the way you want! but judging by the pics of the car and stuff with that turbo you might just rip that car in half!! with the horse power and torque your making! | This coming from the man with the sweetest tail lights known to mankind. At least his car was put together in good taste.  |
03-24-08, 05:30 PM
| | it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end | | Join Date: November 2003 Location: Near Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 3,175
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So how much money would you say you have in this? |
03-24-08, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 85_SS_302_Coupe So how much money would you say you have in this? | If your talking just the turbo kit as you see it (including then MAF and 42lb Injectors)...under $2k ($1700 range). I have a bit more into it now with the new oil feed and drain setup...along with the turbo blankets and a few other misc items (figure add another $250). |
03-24-08, 05:47 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: November 2002 Location: Augsta GA
Posts: 142
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Originally Posted by millhouse If your talking just the turbo kit as you see it (including then MAF and 42lb Injectors)...under $2k ($1700 range). I have a bit more into it now with the new oil feed and drain setup...along with the turbo blankets and a few other misc items (figure add another $250). |
Damn thats alot less than the supercharger im about to bolt on, and probably wont yield near the results, bravo! Wish i had the place and time to build a turbo kit, id be all over that. Too bad they wont let you do too much work where I'm at... Keep it up.
--Chuck |
03-24-08, 05:56 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: MI (Lansing/Howell/Farmington Hillls)
Posts: 1,935
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Originally Posted by DrMaxit Damn thats alot less than the supercharger im about to bolt on, and probably wont yield near the results, bravo! Wish i had the place and time to build a turbo kit, id be all over that. Too bad they wont let you do too much work where I'm at... Keep it up.
--Chuck | Thanks! I feel for all those with strict requirements and or testing. It kind of takes the hot-rodding out of hot-rodding.  |
03-25-08, 10:37 AM
|  | Official Member | | Join Date: April 2005 Location: Oakwood, GA
Posts: 530
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great project man!
I am about to start my diy single with a Holset H1E and a blow-thru carb, I hope it puts down close to what yours makes.  |
03-25-08, 01:36 PM
| | Founding Member | | Join Date: November 2002 Location: Augsta GA
Posts: 142
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Originally Posted by millhouse Thanks! I feel for all those with strict requirements and or testing. It kind of takes the hot-rodding out of hot-rodding. | Yeah no kiddin' bro. I don't any emissions rules due to the fact my cars registered in GA, but their just isnt a whole lot of space on base here to work on your car and they wont let you have a "deadlined" car here for more than X amount of time, but hell, a blower will work for now, F-it. Again, Keep up the good work, I'm sure ill copycat your setup soon enough.
--Chuck |
03-25-08, 03:44 PM
| | Official Member | | Join Date: November 2007
Posts: 187
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Originally Posted by fastford91 first thing ! being a welder i can say your welds are terrible ! you should have gotten a welder to do it for you! second where the hell are you building this thing in chicken coup with a dirt floor? all this being said if your doing and building to the best of your capabilities then good for you! hope it turns out the way you want! but judging by the pics of the car and stuff with that turbo you might just rip that car in half!! with the horse power and torque your making! | Let the man without sin cast the first stone. Jirkoff. |
03-25-08, 03:44 PM
| | Official Member | | Join Date: November 2007
Posts: 187
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