[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by HHStang

Are your stripes painted or tape?

Painted, in a "no-feel" fashion buried in the clear coat.

[HHStang]

Thanks. Where did you get the dimensions for the stripes? I'm thinking of doing my 67FB in black with white side GT stripes and the KR stripes like yours on the body. Did you find someone to make the new "GT" logo for you yet?

[stackz]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

good project, very nice car thus far. been keeping up with the thread off and on.

few questions...

1. what kind of clamps are those on the fuel lines and where can I get some?

2. what kind of fuel line is that you're using? generic high pressure from the parts store or what?? can I see some pics of how you clamp it to the fuel pump and the fuel rail, etc?? do you use something like standard earls barbed fittings with simple clamps or something else??

3. you're running a standalone or stock ecu?? I saw the wiring pics and all. Regardless, what are you doing for the sensor plugs?? taking stock ones and splicing in wires or did you find a source for brand new plugs??

4. what gauge/type wire is that you're using for the ecu wiring??

thanks a bunch man.

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by HHStang

Thanks. Where did you get the dimensions for the stripes? I'm thinking of doing my 67FB in black with white side GT stripes and the KR stripes like yours on the body. Did you find someone to make the new "GT" logo for you yet?

We just eyeballed the stripe dimensions. The paint shop I use has done a bunch of Cobras, etc. and knows their stuff about tapering the stripes the perfect amount.

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by stackz

good project, very nice car thus far. been keeping up with the thread off and on.

few questions...

1. what kind of clamps are those on the fuel lines and where can I get some?

2. what kind of fuel line is that you're using? generic high pressure from the parts store or what?? can I see some pics of how you clamp it to the fuel pump and the fuel rail, etc?? do you use something like standard earls barbed fittings with simple clamps or something else??

3. you're running a standalone or stock ecu?? I saw the wiring pics and all. Regardless, what are you doing for the sensor plugs?? taking stock ones and splicing in wires or did you find a source for brand new plugs??

4. what gauge/type wire is that you're using for the ecu wiring??

thanks a bunch man.

1. The clamps are made for routing hydraulic hoses and you can probably find them at a decent industrial supply store.

2. The fuel line is Goodyear 300 psi fuel-rated socketless hose. All of the fittings I'm using are socketless on the hose end and AN on the other, and they're a mix of Aeroquip, Aeromotive, and Earl's.

3. The ECU is stock Ford EEC-V. There's a "Check Engine" light on the cluster, an OBD-II port under the dash, etc. All of the plugs are new, with the exception of a couple I cut from a new stock harness.

4. The wire gauge depends on the signal/load it's carrying. Everything's 125 C OEM-type wire -- don't use the stuff you get at the hardware or auto parts store.

[reenmachine]

I've been wiring, wiring, wiring lately (and working on another car). Wiring is one of those funny jobs where if you do it right, the more you do, the less it looks like you did. I've gone from huge gobs of wire everywhere to a car that almost looks like there's no wiring in it. I've been painstakingly harnessing everything and armoring any areas that could potentially rub anything to ensure reliability. Lots of mods to the Painless harness as well to remove unneeded stuff like the voltage regulator, coil, and apron-mounted solenoid wiring. I saw some cars while I was planning this project that had lots of unneeded wiring tucked away here and there and made a vow to avoid that.

As soon as I get things wrapped up with the chassis wiring it'll be time to make the cluster. I'm using Edbert's page as a guide, so keep your fingers crossed!

[h8louzn]

Hello Reen,
Wow I just read 11 pages!
That is one nice build up....
I am going to be doing a 4.6 dohc in a 55 fairlane in the near future.
I here there is a guy that does the wiring in So Cal.
He takes your engine harness and takes some wires out that we don't need like the 2nd set of 02's and makes it work for what we want to do.

Just can't figure out which way I want to go for the wiring.
Also what pan is on your 4.6?
I want to keep my stock front end but add the rack and pinion.
What do you think about that?
Thanks in advance,
Eddie

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by h8louzn

Hello Reen,
Wow I just read 11 pages!
That is one nice build up....
I am going to be doing a 4.6 dohc in a 55 fairlane in the near future.
I here there is a guy that does the wiring in So Cal.
He takes your engine harness and takes some wires out that we don't need like the 2nd set of 02's and makes it work for what we want to do.

Just can't figure out which way I want to go for the wiring.
Also what pan is on your 4.6?
I want to keep my stock front end but add the rack and pinion.
What do you think about that?
Thanks in advance,
Eddie

Eddie-
The pan is the stock Mustang rear sump pan. I have no idea what the engine compartment and suspension/steering looks like in a '55 Fairlane, so I can't be of much help there.

Good luck with the project!

[65mistress]

Eddie

What kind of R&P? I have access to a 57 Fairlane, and was thinking really hard on doing a 5.4 Lightning motor upgrade, which would require, brakes, trans and gobs of wiring unless I can figure out how to put a distributor module of some sort in there.

Reen, in your planning of your car have you come across any of the ignition control modules that are available? I know that they use some sort of crank mounted trigger to get the timing from there to the module then off to the coil packs, but I'm not finding much more information on them. I did hear that they are used widely on the modular race engines, any ideas? This is for a carburated modular engine btw...

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by 65mistress

Reen, in your planning of your car have you come across any of the ignition control modules that are available? I know that they use some sort of crank mounted trigger to get the timing from there to the module then off to the coil packs, but I'm not finding much more information on them. I did hear that they are used widely on the modular race engines, any ideas? This is for a carburated modular engine btw...

I have heard about these snippets as well, but I've never really looked into it because I'm sticking with EFI and factory-type control. The latest issue of M&F has a bunch of modular info, and there's info on a company that makes a carb intake for the 4.6L. I'm sure they know all about it.

[reenmachine]

I've made a ton of progress lately, but like I said most of it is "invisible" since it's been wiring work. Anyway, here are some update pics.

The battery is mounted in the trunk, and I'm running the negative cable all the way to the engine as well to make a better reference for the engine sensors. The late-model starter with integral solenoid is basically right through the firewall from here, and the engine ground is nearby, so it worked out perfectly to pop the cables through here. They tuck right up behind the HVAC box (it's out in this pic obviously):


I'm starting to stuff everything into the dash. The harness is basically done in there -- I just have to tape/loom it all up:


The engine compartment is being kept as tidy as possible given the myriad electrical and fluid connections. The fuel system is complete, the EFI wiring harness is complete, and the rest of the plumbing is coming along:


The radiator, remote oil filter, and oil cooler get plumbed up next:


Everything underneath is pretty much done except for the exhaust. I'm getting a different steering column than the one I originally intended to use and I want to get that into place and the linkage done before the exhaust goes in.

[reenmachine]

Sorry about the watermarks on the photos -- they've been showing up in some funny places on the internet lately so I've been forced to "pee on my turf"

[Florida Dave]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

Sorry about the watermarks on the photos -- they've been showing up in some funny places on the internet lately so I've been forced to "pee on my turf"

What exactly are you worried about? Someone having the exact same car with the exact same mods??? It's not like a million people have not seen or heard about your project.I would not be worried about someone stealing your photos...too many people know the the true source and would call BS on another claiming it to be theirs.BTW..I am still totally impressed with both yours and Bob's cars..outstanding work! Work faster we need updates!

[NasaGT]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

Sorry about the watermarks on the photos -- they've been showing up in some funny places on the internet lately so I've been forced to "pee on my turf"

Smart move - some people

[65mistress]

Besides, you probably don't want to go onto ebay and find that some guy from another country is selling your car for you for $20,000.

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by 65mistress

Besides, you probably don't want to go onto ebay and find that some guy from another country is selling your car for you for $20,000.

Bingo. That has happened to us before.

[65mistress]

I think that someone is experiencing that with a 67 Eleanor clone on ebay currently, the buy it now price is $6600. Who ever owns the car has that in the engine alone.

So any progress pictures?

[reenmachine]

Just been working on a bunch of little stuff lately...the little touches.

Wheel Vintiques makes these wheels that look like a '67 Shelby MagStar, but the center hole is the wrong size to fit MagStar center caps. So, I got some Mag 500 center caps and made my own:

[reenmachine]

I also got started on the instrument cluster. I'm fitting everything up with an old bezel and then it'll all go into a '67 deluxe bezel. I'd probably have it done tomorrow except that I dropped one of the glass lenses and they don't bounce!

Thanks to Edbert for tips & tricks on how to do this!

http://www.edbert.net/gauges.htm

[67efivert]

reen if it makes u feel better i dropped one of mine too when I was building mine
luckily i had a pos gague the same size

[Edbert]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

Thanks to Edbert for tips & tricks on how to do this!

NP bud, keep up the excellent work!

What choice are you making WRT only having thee holes for the smaller gauges? I took amp/oil/water and left out fuel. You gonna use an A-pillar pod? I tried but the ones on the market don't fit quite right for us vert owners.

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by Edbert

NP bud, keep up the excellent work!

What choice are you making WRT only having thee holes for the smaller gauges? I took amp/oil/water and left out fuel. You gonna use an A-pillar pod? I tried but the ones on the market don't fit quite right for us vert owners.

I'm doing fuel level on the left, oil pressure in the center (figured that should be most visible), and water temp on the right. The car is getting a custom console, and I'll put Volts and the clock on there.

[reenmachine]

Question for anyone who has done this conversion:

Has anyone used Phantom gauges or only Pro-Comps? It appears the Phantoms have larger diameter glass -- it is so big that it covers the screw holes (see pic; yes it's broken as a result of being a different design than the smaller gauges so the Dremel hit it inside the trim ring).

I may have a smaller piece of glass cut tomorrow, or I may switch to Pro-Comps.

As you can see in the second pic, I mounted the small gauges using part of the supplied bracket and welded it to the modified factory housing. I can't do this with the large Phantoms since the mounting brackets they come with are plastic. I'll probably just make some steel ones.

[reenmachine]

Got the fitment issues resolved (with the Phantoms) and the metal part of the cluster done. Tomorrow I'm going to get everything into the new deluxe bezel. Now if I could just manage to stop breaking the glass lenses!

[reenmachine]

OK - a local glass place made me new lenses (original size) for $4 a piece, and I dropped the modified metal housing off at the powder coater, who should have it done tomorrow (figured why not make it look bitchin'). I made the modifications to the new deluxe bezel, so once I get the housing back it should all go back together smoothly!