[snowball]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

Here's what's been slowing me down on the convertible lately -- getting some work done on the ol' test mule. It rides, handles, steers, and stops like a new car now!

Nice. Wish I could have a test mule like that.

I'm looking for a set of high back front seats for my 67 hardtop. What are those out of?

Keep up the great work.

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by snowball

Nice. Wish I could have a test mule like that.

I'm looking for a set of high back front seats for my 67 hardtop. What are those out of?

Keep up the great work.

They're SCAT Procar Elites. I sell them on the website for $695 per pair complete with everything you need to put them in your Mustang:

http://www.reenmachine.com/parts.php

[SN65]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

Here's what's been slowing me down on the convertible lately -- getting some work done on the ol' test mule. It rides, handles, steers, and stops like a new car now!

Hi Reen,

Do you have any shsots of the car from the rear at ride height?

Are the control arms parrallel with the ground?

[stirling33]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

They're SCAT Procar Elites. I sell them on the website for $695 per pair complete with everything you need to put them in your Mustang:

http://www.reenmachine.com/parts.php

Hey Reen, Quick question in regards to the Elite seats - does that $695 come with your version of the seat rails with the welded studs, similar to the original?

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by stirling33

Hey Reen, Quick question in regards to the Elite seats - does that $695 come with your version of the seat rails with the welded studs, similar to the original?

Nope, but I'd be happy to show you exactly what I did. It comes with the mount in the pic you attached, with holes that line up with the holes in your floor. They expect you to use a bolt & nut, which is no problem if you have someone to help you out. Make sure you use a grade 8 bolt and lock nut.

[stirling33]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

Nope, but I'd be happy to show you exactly what I did. It comes with the mount in the pic you attached, with holes that line up with the holes in your floor. They expect you to use a bolt & nut, which is no problem if you have someone to help you out. Make sure you use a grade 8 bolt and lock nut.

thanks for the info, I really like the way the seats look in the 67'. Maybe I'll be placing a order soon.

[SNAKEPILOT]

Reen,
Have you made any progress on the Comfortweave inserts for the elite seats?

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by SN65

Hi Reen,

Do you have any shsots of the car from the rear at ride height?

Are the control arms parrallel with the ground?

Bob-
Here are some more pics. The control arms aren't as parallel to the ground as I'd like when the car is at the ride height I like. Dave at DVS has a good workaround for this that I am going to undertake that involves some modifications to the cradle. I saw it on one of his cars and it makes it perfect.

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by SNAKEPILOT

Reen,
Have you made any progress on the Comfortweave inserts for the elite seats?

Yes, I had a set made but I actually just sold them. They weren't quite perfect, and they have to be for the vert. I found a place here in AZ that can do the job perfectly and I'm about to get started on that. It'll run me about $350 per seat (not including the price of the seats themselves), so it's not cheap, but it'll be t*ts!

[SN65]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

Bob-
Here are some more pics. The control arms aren't as parallel to the ground as I'd like when the car is at the ride height I like. Dave at DVS has a good workaround for this that I am going to undertake that involves some modifications to the cradle. I saw it on one of his cars and it makes it perfect.

Hi Reen,

Looks pretty good.

Here is a picture of our project from the back



I know that you can't see the control arms in this shot, but they are sitting horizontal.

Catch you l8r.

Bob

[Edbert]

Hehehehe Bob...guess having the inner chassis from a SN95 helps that out a bit eh?

[SN65]

Originally Posted by Edbert

Hehehehe Bob...guess having the inner chassis from a SN95 helps that out a bit eh?

Hi E,

Yes the SN95 chassis helps, but the real difference is that when we grafted the two cars together, we possitioned the SN95 chassis about 1" higher than the original 65 trunk floor. That and the different rail configurations are the bigest reason for the different apperance.

Bob

[reenmachine]

The new cradle mods will lift all of that up over 2" into the car, so the rear appearances will be similar in the end.

[65mistress]

Reen-
Does it involve metal manipulation to the cradle or the underside of the car?

[SN65]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

The new cradle mods will lift all of that up over 2" into the car, so the rear appearances will be similar in the end.

Hi Reen,

2" should do it. That should give you a slight downward rake to the control arms, which should be just perfect. I look forward to seeing the end results.

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by 65mistress

Reen-
Does it involve metal manipulation to the cradle or the underside of the car?

To the cradle.

[65mistress]

Will you be posting pics and a how-to paper on this particular modification?

Seriously, I would be interested in seeing this process.

[SN65]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

The new cradle mods will lift all of that up over 2" into the car, so the rear appearances will be similar in the end.

Hi Reen,

Are you using the stock pumpkin mounts? If so, are you making any modifications to allow for the altered pinion angle?

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by SN65

Hi Reen,

Are you using the stock pumpkin mounts? If so, are you making any modifications to allow for the altered pinion angle?

I've done it a couple of different ways now. First, with the stock mount, I haven't experienced any problems associated with pinion angle (vibration @ speed, etc.). On the latest one I've used the Kenny Brown torque brace with the adjustable aluminum mounts.

[68rustang]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

1. The clamps are made for routing hydraulic hoses and you can probably find them at a decent industrial supply store.

2. The fuel line is Goodyear 300 psi fuel-rated socketless hose. All of the fittings I'm using are socketless on the hose end and AN on the other, and they're a mix of Aeroquip, Aeromotive, and Earl's.

3. The ECU is stock Ford EEC-V. There's a "Check Engine" light on the cluster, an OBD-II port under the dash, etc. All of the plugs are new, with the exception of a couple I cut from a new stock harness.

Where did you get the Goodyear hose, clamps, and wiring harness plugs? I need these for my 302 EFI project and haven't found a decent source. I have looked around everywhere near me and can't find anything.

Thanks,
Eric

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by 68rustang

Where did you get the Goodyear hose, clamps, and wiring harness plugs? I need these for my 302 EFI project and haven't found a decent source. I have looked around everywhere near me and can't find anything.

Thanks,
Eric

The plugs were kind of a one-time score, but they're out there. Talk to Painless.
There's a local place called Applied Industrial Technologies that sells the hose. It's the kind of place that construction companies, forklift guys, and the like go to for hydraulic hoses, etc. Here's the Goodyear link:

http://www.goodyearindustrialproduct...product_ID=194

You can also check out the chemical/oil resistance tables there to see its suitability for gasoline applications.

Search the Goodyear website for a distributor in your area and ask for this hose. Here's the search URL:

http://www.goodyearindustrialproduct....pl?business=4

Hope this is helpful!

[65-347]

Originally Posted by reenmachine

I've been workng on making a floor panel for the trunk. It will cap off the fuel cell, protecting the sending unit and fuel pump wiring that protrudes from the top, and it gives me a nice cubby hole to mount the ECU and related wiring associated with the EFI system. I'm going to carpet the whole thing so it looks clean.

I know this was do a while ago but did you use a stock filler tube? I'm looking into the same set up for my 65. Thanks (by the way this is a great car)

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by 65-347

I know this was do a while ago but did you use a stock filler tube? I'm looking into the same set up for my 65. Thanks (by the way this is a great car)

It's a modified stock filler tube that comes with the fuel cell remote fill kit. Fuel Safe welds in the bung for the cell's vent hose.

[70vert]

So I know you mentioned it rides, handles, and steers like a new car, but I'm wondering if you've taken it over rough pavement at speed to try out that Cobra IRS.

I'm most likely going to go with composite leaf springs and a panhard bar for cost reasons, but I'd love to know what I'm missing. ;-)

Originally Posted by reenmachine

It's a modified stock filler tube that comes with the fuel cell remote fill kit. Fuel Safe welds in the bung for the cell's vent hose.

[reenmachine]

Originally Posted by 70vert

So I know you mentioned it rides, handles, and steers like a new car, but I'm wondering if you've taken it over rough pavement at speed to try out that Cobra IRS.

I'm most likely going to go with composite leaf springs and a panhard bar for cost reasons, but I'd love to know what I'm missing. ;-)

Yes -- frankly, one of the most noticable things is how the car performs on the freeway. For example, going around a cloverleaf on ramp at speed, the car is very stable over the expansion joints and imperfections in the pavement. There is no "side hop."

However, as much as the handling has been improved, some aspects of the ride quality aren't so great. The super-stiff '03-'04 cradle bushings, designed for a brutish car that weighs a lot more, are overkill in this car and allow a lot of road vibration through. I've also got too much spring in the rear -- great for all-out handling, but that's not all I'm after. I want a more refined, smooth ride that still has a lot of handling capability. I'm going to replace the cradle bushings with softer '99 ones and back off on the spring rate a bit. The rear dampers are adjustable, so I can compensate for the softer spring.