[Justin03GT]

like i said, if you THINK thats all i have, then you are mistaken...for your info i'm 60rwhp over your bogus claim...so please go play elsewhere with cars in your league.

[01Steeda]

and i just bought a forged block to run N/A.. yeah... believe that. ill have a 150 shot myself... dont try to play the e-race game. Nobody wins

[Justin03GT]

no e-race, ive ran my car and know what it does...you havent...you can have all the power you want, if you cant put it down you'll get nowhere.

[hotmustang331]

Problem is dude, YOUR A NEWB! You come in here posting crazy #s, now once you get a little slack you have a forged SB going in next week or whatever lol. Just sounds like someone who is making stuff up. And yep with no LT headers your not going to be making THAT much power. I too say 300-305RWHP MAX. After your built motor (sure) you will hit about 320-325 at best.

[hotmustang331]

^ and whats that supposed to mean? You have nitrous?

[01Steeda]

if your talking to me.. yes i will have Nitrous.. I havent had it until now.. but after the car is done I will.

And I understand I am a newb here.. I have been a lurker for a long time and wanted some help deciding on an engine so i finally joined. You may be right man, I might have gotten a bad Dyno.. but I am just saying what I have been shown.

Lets look at this another way since my car is under the knife right now. I know calculators are just estimates and tools to be used, but look at an estimator for a 3700LB car (which is what mine weighs with me in it). To cut a 13.6 it says you need about 290 Crank HP. Take the 15% loss and you end up with 246. I dont know.. you have me second guessing, but everything in my car points to the Dyno was right. When I had that Dyno, I had not yet had a tune, and My car did fall on its face in the upper RPM.. turned out I was WAAAYYY lean. After the tune it ran better up top.

but here are some links about the ET/HP argument

My run http://members.cox.net/joseph.kennedy/spike_5.wmv (edit to add correct file)

my timeslip for the 13.66 http://members.cox.net/pitbull23/1366timeslip.jpg

and a link to a calc http://www.modularfords.com/calculators.php?c=5

I know this is all talk until i get the car back and on a dyno... but hey thats what a forum is for, talk.

[01Steeda]

btw.. here is a guy with close to the same mods.. same numbers.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...306#post409306

[billfisher]

Originally Posted by Mustanggt108

so i could replace my stock 04 heads with 05-06GT's heads? will the fit right on? will i need a tune??

yes. they bolt on. you need some other parts with it.

of course cams,valve covers, front cover, make adapter plates for your exhaust manifolds/headers,intake manifold,TB from 351w with idle circuit and 1/4" adapter plate. we aren't talking pennies, but if you are going to spend 1500.00 or more then wait for them to hit boneyards or e-bay and make 05 power.

[hotmustang331]

all you did was find another guy who strapped his car down on an innaccurate dyno. take a look at his three runs.
242/313
245/354
246/316

Now you just dont gain 40RWTQ out of the blue lol. That dyno was also jacked. these cars have a VERY simular patter when stock/mildly modded. These cars just dont vary that much, they are designed to be very consistent. And they are.

[01Steeda]

yeah i thought that was kinda fishy.. I dunno.. I hope I am right lol... but even if I end up with 300 to 315.. I am still going to be happy. I found a mustang Dyno close by today. I'll use him next time. I got a question. I bought a block with flat tops that is suppose to bring me to around 10:1... how much boost, if I decided to go that route could I safely run intercooled? I have heard alot of conflicting stories.

[01Steeda]

oh and I think I might know why I got faulty numbers.. if I did. When they hooked my car up they had a hard time getting what I guess is the timing to read. So they went by RPM and speed. does that make sense?

I also noticed on his dyno he has speeds on the graph, same reason maybe?

[DropTopPony]

flat tops are going to bring you higher then 10.1, more like 12.1 ish with flat tops on a 2V. My PI swap has me @10.3 to 1 and my NPI pistons have some dish in them...don't remember how much but not quite flat tops...so flat tops and boost is a bad idea. add lots of nitrous.

[01Steeda]

Yeah but I got the heads ported and they claim that dropped it considerably. I'll have to check on that, but say it is 10:1.. what would I be looking at? 8psi intercooled?

[san~man]

Enough with the flames. I think 01Steeda understands that his dyno may have been wrong.

Keep it to tech or the thread goes away.

[01Steeda]

Just makes me mad I blew money on what could be bad dyno's.


but does 13.6 sound right for a vert with U/D'S and Gears?

[DropTopPony]

ported heads will maybe drop your compression 1/2 point. if your truely at @10.1 and have forged internals you could run a centrifugal supercharger. The higher compression with assist with power when boost isn't high. Roots/Twin screws are not recommended with high compression even forged. 8.5 to 1 is good for positive displacement blowers. I personally wouldn't push much boost through even a forged engine @ 10.1 to 1 compression if you want it to last long.

[01Steeda]

Thanx, my plans right now are a 100 to 150 shot.. but just wanting to know all the routes i could take.

[DropTopPony]

high compression and 100-150 shot is the way to go!

[01Steeda]

thanx

[hotmustang331]

Exactly! N20 is the way to go with that kinda motor. And we arent really flaming, I believe he dynoed his car and those were the results. But my point is for him to get another.

And the mustang dyno isnt an accurate way to compare #s either LOL, it goes by weight entered along with ALOT of other variables. it reads LOW in most cases...but GREAT for tuning. Call up some car dealeships and see which has a dyno...like the super centers should all have dynos. 13.6 is a good time for those few mods BTW.

[01Steeda]

Thanks.. and other than Justin, I didnt take anyone else as flaming.

sorry didnt realize he had removed that video.. here it is on my webspace13.66@99

[hotmustang331]

and just between you and me im a little sceptical about his info too LOL. His car seems VERY fast for what it has...maybe its the weather, I dont know. I always question when things are out of the ordinary (we see SOOO many dyno graphs and ETs you know)...nothing personal at all.

[Justin03GT]

i do run n20 yes, the car went 7.72@94.38mph in the 1/8th on a 125shot with DR's and a 2.01 60'

with an xcal tune, 104 octane and a catback the car went 13.6@100.78 with a 2.03 60' they arent made up, the car dynoed 241hp/296tq at the time of the 13.6 run and dynoed 394hp/476tq on the 125shot n20 makes a ****ton of tq which drops of extremely fast after the initial hit..

edit- and i do run at a track that has an elevation of 12feet...so that does help.

[hotmustang331]

How did you see that post?

No i didnt really think you were making it up, just knew there were other factors @ work. Now I know them hahaha....and 12' helps alot lol. I tend to forget that not everyone lives in Tx and runs on a track that 688 ft MSL. LOL. No offence whatsoever intended...I figured you ran at a close to sea lv track.
Just showing the guy that im not picking on him lol, and that ill question anyone. But once the factors and/or proof is shown I will quickly accept it...like I said, I picture everyone at my track lol.
I even backed down from the guy that went mid 12s @ 113 with a 50 shot on a GT that just had full exhaust, because the presented factors put it in the "possable range". Yours was always WELL into that range...just a little higher than normal thats all. Heck, I hardly believe my own times

[01Steeda]

You ran 13.6 on the gas? Or was that before the N20?