Engine break in

Cobain03 · #1 (**permalink**) 01-21-06, 04:56 PM

whats a fair amount of time ot break in a new engine. i may be picking my engine up on monday and doing install monday through wensday or so. my goal is to have it dynoed on saturday since that is a local dyno day. Is it fesible? there is a 3 month warranty on the engine but i dont want to go there either lol

krash kendall · #2 (**permalink**) 01-21-06, 04:59 PM

Did you end doing the 289 or the 302? What all did you get done?

Cobain03 · #3 (**permalink**) 01-21-06, 05:12 PM

complete rebuild of the 289. bored it 30 over and through in a mild cam.

malcons66 · #4 (**permalink**) 01-21-06, 05:15 PM

i had the same thing done man. i was ultra safe and didnt run it hard for 300 miles...but for a dyno im not sure if you would have to break it in that long.

DJE55 · #5 (**permalink**) 01-21-06, 05:15 PM

You should be able to break in the motor in a matter of minutes. I broke my motor in on the dyno in less than an hour and we were making pulls that afternoon. Made a little over 500hp at the rear wheels in less than a few hours after we first cranked it.

**rbohm** · #6 (**permalink**) 01-21-06, 05:27 PM

assuming the rebuilder didnt break the cam in, then you need 20 min for cam break in(run at 2000 rpm minimum and dont let the engine idle in that period). after the cam is broken in you can dyno the engine.

iskwezm · #7 (**permalink**) 01-21-06, 08:04 PM

question:why is it said to take it easy on a new engine, but its okay to put a load and dyno it???? I waited about 600 miles before jumping on mine and putting the blower belt on

cobains_dad · #8 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 07:37 AM

i hope you guys are telling him right,he has invested alot of his money on the car!!

steel1212 · #9 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 10:21 AM

I personally wouldn't dyno it right after its rebuilt. I took some time with my engine with non synthetic oils for about 300 miles then switched and took it to the track.

KillerKittyCat · #10 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 11:58 AM

If you have the hydraulic lifter setup the take it easy. Break in at 2000 RPM or better for half an hour. If you went solid then nail it!!!

iskwezm · #11 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KillerKittyCat

. If you went solid then nail it!!!

I hope people dont listen to you, a solid needs break in time too

iskwezm · #12 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steel1212

I personally wouldn't dyno it right after its rebuilt.

ditto

Cobain03 · #13 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 01:36 PM

alright, i'll wait a couple of weeks then

krash kendall · #14 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobains_dad

i hope you guys are telling him right,he has invested alot of his money on the car!!

Ask the engine builder, he'll be the one doing the warranty work not us.

That said, whenever we have to get a new jug (cylinder) on the airplane, we have to run mineral oil in it for the first 50 hrs. before switching back to synthetic. Nothing to do with cars other than the fact that metal on metal needs to be broken in.

**sportsroof69** · #15 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 02:07 PM

I broke mine in on the dyno and haven't had any problems at all. We did 10 pulls to 6000 and 1 to 6300. The real important thing is to break the cam in during the first 20 minutes after first start.

malcons66 · #16 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 02:13 PM

to be safe man give it like 300 miles. or more. for the cam, headwork, and all that stuff i went 500. better safe than ...you know what im talking about.make sure you retiten everything after a long run because of the heat and everything. you dont want to leak anything because of the gasketcs breaking etc etc

67coupe351w · #17 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 06:07 PM

There are two basic theories. one says to baby the engine for xxx number of miles after the cam break in and the other says break the cam in and run the engine as hard as you can (WOT or dyno) within the first 3 hours or so of its life.

The theory behind running the engine hard is that under high load the rings seat into the walls better while the hone is still on them providing a better seal for the life of the engine. light load or no load simple wipes the hone off the wall.

iskwezm · #18 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67coupe351w

There are two basic theories. one says to baby the engine for xxx number of miles after the cam break in and the other says break the cam in and run the engine as hard as you can (WOT or dyno) within the first 3 hours or so of its life.

The theory behind running the engine hard is that under high load the rings seat into the walls better while the hone is still on them providing a better seal for the life of the engine. light load or no load simple wipes the hone off the wall.

makes sence....but will i try it?????????dont think so

65fastback2+2 · #19 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 10:28 PM

As long as your cam was broke in properly you are fine. I know a roller motor doesnt have a 20 minute cam break in period, but 20 minutes after first start on my new roller 5.0 I was manually shifting it up to about 6k rpm racing a few ricers on the streets

....motors actually break in best if you drive them like your normal driving habits....hence why I was racing mine immediately

65fastback2+2 · #20 (**permalink**) 01-22-06, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67coupe351w

There are two basic theories. one says to baby the engine for xxx number of miles after the cam break in and the other says break the cam in and run the engine as hard as you can (WOT or dyno) within the first 3 hours or so of its life.

The theory behind running the engine hard is that under high load the rings seat into the walls better while the hone is still on them providing a better seal for the life of the engine. light load or no load simple wipes the hone off the wall.

ya, ronstang advised me on the second method of running it WOT....that motor never ran bad...i would tell anyone to run it WOT and dont do the baby thing

malcons66 · #21 (**permalink**) 01-23-06, 12:35 AM

ill have to try that next time... or will i dun dun dun

jerry S · #22 (**permalink**) 01-23-06, 12:53 AM

this topic came up here before and one of the contributors to the thread posted this link. At the time, my engine was still being assembled so I called the shop building it and repeated the key points of this article. The shop basically agreed. So the advice to "drive it like you stole it" for breaking in a new engine is also out there.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

69Rcode_Mach1 · #23 (**permalink**) 01-23-06, 02:23 AM

Yes I am in the same boat as well. If the clearances in the bearings are correct, run it hard. In fact I would recommend getting it on a dyno, it will put a sufficient load on it throughout the rpm range and seat those rings up nicely. Read that link Jerry posted it is full of good stuff. Ronstang also recommended I do it that way, he has been doing this forever so he knows his stuff. That is how the Mach1 is being broken in.

**NasaGT** · #24 (**permalink**) 01-23-06, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbohm

assuming the rebuilder didnt break the cam in, then you need 20 min for cam break in(run at 2000 rpm minimum and dont let the engine idle in that period). after the cam is broken in you can dyno the engine.

Not to hijack, why does a cam have to be broken in >> 2000 rpm for 20 minutes? I have never heard of this before...

cobains_dad · #25 (**permalink**) 01-23-06, 11:42 AM

hey guys i just talked to the garage and he said just break the cam at 2000 rpm for 20 min or so that should do the cam and get on the hwy and
start off at 30 and hard to 50 or 60 or so and then back down to 30 he said do that 4 or 5 times and that should seat the rings

Engine break in

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