[JimBowy]

Originally Posted by webslinger67

i think i might have been incorrect, but, i want to clear the codes from my EECM , how do i do that? I have already read them, now i just wanna clear them..

disconnect the battery, tap the brake a few times, then let the car sit for 10 minutes

[webslinger67]

i just found out the procedure to do it with the meter.... all codes are cleared..

[back2fox]

I checked everything and nothing helped. I unhooked my mass air meter and finally a good idle. I rotated the position of my mass air meter about 45 degrees and plugged it back in. It finally will run on it's own. Hopefully this will help someone else.

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by back2fox

I checked everything and nothing helped. I unhooked my mass air meter and finally a good idle. I rotated the position of my mass air meter about 45 degrees and plugged it back in. It finally will run on it's own. Hopefully this will help someone else.

See item #8 on the checklist...

Originally Posted by Surging Idle Checklist

8.) MAF meter on CAI system that needs clocking or protection from engine compartment air turbulence. A cone type filter located inside the engine compartment is almost sure to have surge problems due to the hot, turbulent airflow around it. Try cleaning the MAF element & then "clock" the MAF by rotating the entire MAF housing to see if changing its position helps any.

[back2fox]

Originally Posted by jrichker

See item #8 on the checklist...

I guess this is tue even if the air filter is mounted inside the fender.

[oldwantabe]

I did want to let everyone know.I checked and looked at a lot of things trying to correct the surging idle problem on my 93 coupe.It was chocking down and surginging from300 to 1600 RPM.I carried it to Bernie Prince in Bolingbroke,Ga.I watched him work on the car,he was all over the engine checking and correcting problems.In about an hour or less he had my mustang running like new.This car has a Ford E cam ,long tube headers ,trickflow intake ,GT40 heads roller rockers,and H pipe.It is very drivable now,Bernie Prince knows his stuff.They showed me also they also work on other cars and problems.I was amazed and thankful for the job well done.His shops name is Performance Center Inc.Bolingbroke,Ga.Thanks for a job well done.

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by oldwantabe

I did want to let everyone know.I checked and looked at a lot of things trying to correct the surging idle problem on my 93 coupe.It was chocking down and surginging from300 to 1600 RPM.I carried it to Bernie Prince in Bolingbroke,Ga.I watched him work on the car,he was all over the engine checking and correcting problems.In about an hour or less he had my mustang running like new.This car has a Ford E cam ,long tube headers ,trickflow intake ,GT40 heads roller rockers,and H pipe.It is very drivable now,Bernie Prince knows his stuff.They showed me also they also work on other cars and problems.I was amazed and thankful for the job well done.His shops name is Performance Center Inc.Bolingbroke,Ga.Thanks for a job well done.

It is good that you got your problem solved and that you are happy with the results.

However, the intent of this thread is to help the die hard Do It Yourself guys find and fix their idle problems without doing a lot of damage to their wallets. Bernie may not be accessible or affordable for them.

I would be interested in knowing how much of the first post in the checklist you actually did. Did you thoroughly follow each and every step? Did you get to the end of the checklist without finding the problem? If so, I would like to know more about your car and what you observed as it idled. Unusual cases help to improve this tech note and help others.

[oldwantabe]

I replaced bad O2 sensors and checked 12 volts to O2 sensors,cleanened both 10 pin connectors twice,replaced Idle air control,checked alt.voltage output.replaced damaged vacuum lines,sprayed either looking for engine rpm changes,cleaned mass air sensor,tried a mass air sensor thanks to another person being very helpful,checked continuity from block to groung wire from ground wire to chassis from ground wire to neg post.I did all I new to do and felt comfortable doing.I new nothing about fuel inj. when I started but have learned a lot. A carb. system is very simple most times to work on and is all I have every fooled with. Reading your post and trying things was a great help to me,it was very eye opening.
I was begining to think I needed to pull the Ford E cam out and go with another one,I do want everyone to know it seams to be a very streetable cam and can run and idle good.
Unplugging the mass air sensor would give me a good idle but top end was bad.This does not mean it is bad though.I cleaned mine and tried another one,This could be a couple of hundred dollar mistake replacing this unit when not needed.

[jrichker]

What is your current idle speed?
What was your ignition timing?
Did you dump the codes?
Do you have a Cold Air Intake?
Was the MAF sensor you swapped from another Mustang that had no problems?

[aete2]

Great work every one this helps alot thank you !!

[98BLKGT]

I have a surging idle on cold start only (500-1500rpm). As soon as it begins to warm up, my idle is perfect (See idle vid in signature). Am I correct to say that the only things to blame could be the IAC or the timing. I already have the idle adjustment plate and a new alternator.
What are some other things that could be wrong on a cold start and not on a warm engine?
BTW Car idles fine around 600-700 RPM with the IAC disconnected.

[savegoodautonfg]

1. My idle is set to about 850-900 rpms, and when im driving only sometimes for some reason after about 5 minutes or so, i'll stop and let my foot off the clutch and the rpm will stay at 2,000 rpm and not go down unless i turn the car off and then on again. This is happening too much lately. Any ideas?

2. This is a different problem but, also, for as long as i can remember when im driving and i let off the gas and take my foot off the clutch and drop it in nuetral or whatever the car's rpm stays up higher then idle then when i come to a complete stop, after a second then it will drop to regular idle.


any ideas?

thanks in advance

also when i disconnected the IAC connector the idle did'nt change at all?
is'nt it suppose to?

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by savegoodautonfg

1. My idle is set to about 850-900 rpms, and when im driving only sometimes for some reason after about 5 minutes or so, i'll stop and let my foot off the clutch and the rpm will stay at 2,000 rpm and not go down unless i turn the car off and then on again. This is happening too much lately. Any ideas?

2. This is a different problem but, also, for as long as i can remember when im driving and i let off the gas and take my foot off the clutch and drop it in nuetral or whatever the car's rpm stays up higher then idle then when i come to a complete stop, after a second then it will drop to regular idle.

any ideas?

thanks in advance

also when i disconnected the IAC connector the idle did'nt change at all?
is'nt it suppose to?

Read the very first post in this tech note: it has all the answers. Once you have completely read it, print it off and read it again. Then take a highlighter and mark the sections that pertain to your problem. The answer is in there.

[AnthonyR23]

will someone check out this post.. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthrea...77#post6841277

[873Stang]

i got it down to 800rpm but when i turn it dies????

do 02 sens have to do with idle

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by 873Stang

i got it down to 800rpm but when i turn it dies????

do 02 sens have to do with idle

Once the engine warms up enough for the computer to go into closed loop, the O2 sensors have a great effect on idle.
Go back to the first post and read on how to dump codes. You may have some codes that need attention.

[joncash]

Here's another checklist success story: I went throught the list step by step, and it ended up being the salt and pepper shakers. My surging problem had been bugging me for about a year and a half. The cause ended up being the Ford recall jumper harneses. If your car has them, pitch them in the trash. Here's a good link for more info (I don't think it's been posted on this thread):
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=85
I'd suggest following it just for preventative maintenance.

[90TwilightGT]

I have an E303 cam, and the idle has always been a little rough. Every once in a while if you could tell you have to give it gas or it's going to stall... really only for a second when the car first started and then it was fine from then on!

So recently the car has been doing fine, but when it warms up, if I go into neutral, it would die down to about 500 and try about 3 or 4 times to go up to about 1500 and die. It goes VROOM.... VROOM.... VROOM.... *clunk* or something of the sort.

One time I was coming home and I shifted out of forth gear and went to neutral just to coast for about 1/4 mile downhill to my turn. The second I put it in neutral and let off the clutch it did the above mentioned... and finallly stalled at about 20 MPH.

Soooooo.... I cleaned the TB, and I also cleaned the idle air which seemed to REALLY help steady the car at about 800-900RPM, and it was great. However, the car died once when I first started it, as the E303 cam always has.

My problem with the driving around and stalling the second I shift into neutral is finally gone for the most part.

Any way to tackle this thing so it doesn't stall at all?

[90TwilightGT]

Sorry double post.

[jrichker]

The first post has all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix you idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.

[98BLKGT]

So my cold idle surging continues. The IAC and timing are not a problem. If anyone has any other ideas that could relate to cold idle only, let me know. For now I will keep going through the general idle problems.
Can a vaccum leak be out of question if my car idles good when warm?

[Gcoupe]

bad azz dragon

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by 98BLKGT

So my cold idle surging continues. The IAC and timing are not a problem. If anyone has any other ideas that could relate to cold idle only, let me know. For now I will keep going through the general idle problems.
Can a vaccum leak be out of question if my car idles good when warm?

Yes. Cold engines enrichen the fuel mixture, making them a little less sensitive to mixture variations. When the engine warms up & goes into closed loop, there is much tighter control over air/fuel ratio.

[Red88 RICK]

Im not exactly sure if anyone has wrote this in this thread Before but i have beeen a victum of this surging Idle so i jumped the DLC and did the flash test KOEO test and got code 63 TPS signal open so i took off my TPS which was new from autozone and tested it it should have 5000 Ohms when probling i think sig rtn and TP signal and when probingsig return and Vref you should have 0-5000 Ohms varing with tps location anywho long story short i hooked up a tps we found in the shop and tested it first put it on the car and surging idle GONE! New parts dont mean good parts...now im dealing with another problem code 94. blahhhh!

[93lxdm78]

Need help hear my car has been running crappy for a while idle and stalling issues
just got a pmas 75mm mass air from anderson and its been ok for 1 week today the check engine light came on and I ran codes and got

66
and
67

I saw 66 mass air voltage to low how do I fix that ? my mass air is new and its pluged in wires look fine

And 67 I think because I didn't have my clutch pushed in