[83 Capri 5.0]

Originally Posted by Slo 5.0

Will you take a pic and draw on it where the pcv valve is? i dont know where it is. i have a 1990 5.0

It's in a tough place to get at, right straight behind the upper intake in the the lower intake. A 3/4 in (approx.) hose goes to it from the upper. Got to reach down in there to get at it.

[HISSIN50]

also, i find it easiest (on a fox) to stand on the driver side to remove it. to get the screen below the grommet and valve out, a magnet works for some; i use a pair of really long needle nose pliers. a curved dental pick would work too. if you buy a new screen ahead of time, you can see what it looks like and how to grab ahold of it.

good luck.

[Slo 5.0]

thanks for the help, i found it.

[dvs bullet]

Originally Posted by HISSIN50

also, i find it easiest (on a fox) to stand on the driver side to remove it. to get the screen below the grommet and valve out, a magnet works for some; i use a pair of really long needle nose pliers. a curved dental pick would work too. if you buy a new screen ahead of time, you can see what it looks like and how to grab ahold of it.

good luck.

Just a little more on that, my basket was really stuck in there ( I mean really stuck!!!!) I ended up using a tool that I made to get it out. I use a bolt that I welded a screw on the end of it, the screw really digs in on the basket and the bolt head give you something to grab on to. If it helps any one

[HISSIN50]

Originally Posted by dvs bullet

Just a little more on that, my basket was really stuck in there ( I mean really stuck!!!!) I ended up using a tool that I made to get it out. I use a bolt that I welded a screw on the end of it, the screw really digs in on the basket and the bolt head give you something to grab on to. If it helps any one

good point - i have known of people having luck with the screw method as well.

[83 Capri 5.0]

Originally Posted by 83 Capri 5.0

I have a cold start idle problem that lasts for about 5 mins of driving then is fine or if I shut it off and start it up again couple of times it seems to go away as well. It doesn't do the standard high idle at start anymore, rather it now surges up to 1500 RPM and the down to 100-400 RPM. If you don't give some throttle, it just dies.

I have replaced the Idle Air Bypass
Cleaned the ACT, Mass Air filiments
tested the temp sensor at 180* it reads the right ohms (as per a Chilton manual)
I should probably check it cold and clean Pin 10 as suggested in this thread.

What else should I be looking at?

Checked the Temp Sender cold and its is open, should show 58k, so says the manual. So I will change and post the results.

[67coupe]

Ranchero,

If that doesn't do it check the 12vdc to the heater on the O2's. One smack of wiring on headers wipes out the fusible link hidden in the wiring on the engine side of the firewall where the main puter harness goes through. This will cause the o2's to slowly go out of tolerance and the puter flips out. check this if the car's running really rich a idle too. Ranchero got nailed when first installed and the '93's done it too. I actually ended up soldering on a stereo inline fusible link and installing a 20a fuse to make the repair quicker.

Can you elaborate on this? I've been fighting a fairly rich/rough idle for a few months now. All sensors are new and less than 30,000 miles old. Even shade tree data logged the ACT and ECT. They looked fine. Engine pulls 19.5 in vac at idle. The problem can be partially solved by resetting the computer. After a few thousand miles of driving, part throttle response and gas milage decrease, and the car once again settles into a rich idle. Where is this fusible link located and how can I fix it?

Thanks

[darthcual]

Although u mention vacuum lines i would specifically mention pcv valve and the pre-formed hose that goes with it because this seems to be an extremely common problem. As others have stated.

[White88T-Top]

Don't know if these 2 would help but...
1. Replace fuel filter
2. Dont forget the Seafoam

[jimilane]

Originally Posted by 83 Capri 5.0

I have a cold start idle problem that lasts for about 5 mins of driving then is fine or if I shut it off and start it up again couple of times it seems to go away as well. It doesn't do the standard high idle at start anymore, rather it now surges up to 1500 RPM and the down to 100-400 RPM. If you don't give some throttle, it just dies.

I have replaced the Idle Air Bypass
Cleaned the ACT, Mass Air filiments
tested the temp sensor at 180* it reads the right ohms (as per a Chilton manual)
I should probably check it cold and clean Pin 10 as suggested in this thread.

What else should I be looking at?

........

I bought a car that wouldn't start until about the third time. Then it would not have the fast idle after it finally started. It turned out to be the computer. It had a Cobra computer. The Cobra computer is set up a little different.

[cheddarbacon]

Bar ba que sauce

[dvs bullet]

WOOOOOHOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!! Thanks Jrichker, every one else!!!!! my Idle prob is cured!!! My mass air meter was filthy! and I needed a new IAC motor. The combination between the two really made a mess!! thanks every one for your all advice

[RYC CUKR]

Well here is what I did to cure the surging idle.

Pulled codes

O2 sensors were going out so I replaced them
Cleaned my IAC, TB and MAF and ACT
Went around motor to check for vacuum leaks, found several specifically around throttle body to EGR spacer and upper intake. Used a can of starting fluid to spray around gaskets and hoses. Fixed all of my vacuum leaks.
Car now pulls 16" of vacuum at idle

Now the car idles pretty smoothly still a hiccup here and there. Might just go ahead and replace the IAC in the near future.

A big thanks to jrichker for starting this thread and to Hissin for makin it sticky

[Ranchero5.0]

Here are a couple quick pics of an IAC with the port mod sitting next to a stocker and the air die grinder I do it with.

For an elaboration on the o2's. The two white wires on the o2 sensor are for a the o2 heater. Without them working ,especially on longtubes the o2's cool off at idle and slow cruise and stop working correctly and the puter flips out. Use a paper clip or two and check for 12dvc between the two wires. No voltage, no heaters. Ford actually made a change and put the fusible link on the outside of the harness in the early 90's

Jamie

[Champ10187]

could a bad ground be cause for idle problems?

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by Champ10187

could a bad ground be cause for idle problems?

Bad grounds in a computer controlled engine will make all sorts of strange problems.

Here's the ground fixit test path...

1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator.

2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

3.) The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery. It is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire.

4.) All the sensors have a common separate ground. This includes the TPS, ACT, EGE, BAP, & VSS

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground) coming from the computer. This is different and separate from the O2 sensor ground. It is in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or head bolt.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around the wires and another for the module itself.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.

8.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it controls internally.

See http://www.fluke.com/application_not...1&SID=103#volt for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds

[90FoxBody]

For the kind of idle that surges when the clutch is engaged, or stays the same when the clutch is engaged and then raises to around 2500 RPM at the stop in neutral, I used this site to fix my problem and IT WORKED! I had a combination of a filthy IAC valve and throttle body as well as ten pin connectors. Thanks very much for your posts, they really did the trick for me. I wish you all the best of luck with your idling situations.

[big_tiger15]

I went out to look for theses salt and pepper shakers, and found nothing. I have a converted 4cyl and I didn't swap the motor. My car idles around 750 with a mild cam, but idles crappy when its not warm. O2 sensors maybe? Also I have the battery mounted in the back and I only have one 4 gauge ground running to the battery (bolted to the intake manifold). Is that enough?

[bluestang65]

Two thoughts:
Ford had a TSB for this where they would do one of two things...they would put a 6 inch jumper harness in the salt and pepper shakers, claiming that they were perhaps too tight resulting in a bad connection. IMHO this is perhaps not the best idea because you are adding two new connectors to the mix and thus two new potential sources of problems. I took mine out of the harness I am working with.
The other thing I know Ford used to do is put the IAB spacer in to allow for a little adjustment. If you go to a pick-n-pull salvage yard and paroose the Ford section, you might find one accompanied by a little yellow sticker somewhere under the hood. These help to get a little more air in and they are adjustable. Should be a Ford service part availiable from the dealer...they have a Ford p/n on them.

[DouglasOhio]

Fix= Bad 02's/dirty 02 harness, Dirty MAF, Dirty IAB, Dirty TB.
Awesome thread.

[davs5.0]

anyone know the ford part number for the idle adjustment plate?

[willys1]

Originally Posted by davs5.0

anyone know the ford part number for the idle adjustment plate?

I will look around for it.I bought one and put it on,my idle shot up to 1500rpm,,LOL,,I gave it to some guy on this web site.I'LL let you know by tomorrow if I find it...JRICHKER,,I have an idle problem..Just started happening,I just cleaned out my IAB and it still happens.When I start it in the morning it revs past a 1000rpm's then stalls..On the 2nd try it idle's fine..When its warmed up it idle's fine too(no surge) but if Im at a light or stuck in traffic it will be fine for 30 seconds then the rpm drops way down,,it stalls when in drive,if I put it in nuetral it idles at like 550-600rpm..This always happens now,,any ideas?(Its an aod,stock motor with bolt ons)

[davs5.0]

Willys, thanks anyways but I found it and ordered one. should have it today or tomorrow. I'll post up my results.

[willys1]

Originally Posted by davs5.0

Willys, thanks anyways but I found it and ordered one. should have it today or tomorrow. I'll post up my results.

Awsome I couldnt find it,but someone here on SN gave it to me so I knew it would show up!!,,My idle seemed fine today..I guess it needed a full cool down to compinsate for the cleaned IAB But it still stalls when I start it in the morning.....This thread is a great idea

[willys1]

Well its back again Everything was fine until I nailed it from a stop to 80mph..Then when I got to town it started in again,only now it doesnt go away