[zeusmoto]

hey guys this is zeus for those who have forgot me i am finally back after an extremely harsh winter up until now.
anyways i am looking at completely going through the stang checking everything to see if it works etc. i bought the car with and s-trim an a lot of other mods i am not a mechanic and dont know a whole lot about how to fix cars but i know that my car hasnt been healthy for a while, example i get 7 1/2 miles to the gallon and i am fairly conservative with the gas. my idle has always been a problem along with the motor dying after hard stops at lights or anything, i dont know where the MAF is please someone help me out. also what should i do to make sure that my car is healthy what should i check and how etc. with hissin and Jrichker i figured that i was asking the guru's. please someone help i want my stang running strong but i need some help from you to help suggest what to do to check and fix it

thanks
(im glad im finally back)

[jrichker]

Look for the MAF on this picture...



Picture courtsey of http://www.leemotorsports.com/f350/5...partsguide.JPG

Read through the pages of this sticky & you will find lots of good information

[jaymac]

1st, a suggestion: dirty fuel pump sock (filter). I replaced mine when upgrading my pump (it was BLACK), and instant "smooth-as-glass" idle...

Second, a question: to clean the 10 pin connectors, what should I use?
Electrical contact spray and di-electic grease? WD-40?
Thanks as always for good info!

[big_tiger15]

ok i think i found my pcv i would take a pic to show yall but my camera wont fit lol. Is it right in the middle of the intake manifold? Its pretty much inline with the intake runners?
If that is the case then friggn' autozone gave me the wrong pcv valve.
Which one should i buy? Oh and I took my IAC and wow my TB has a horrible path for the air to go in and out the IAC. Im in the process of opening up my IAC ports.

[jaymac]

yes, that's the right one. Go back to autozone and tell them to get you the right one, or go to ford (prob. more $$)

[rick@crossroads]

This worked for me. 1. disconnect battery for 30 minutes. 2. Disconnect plug to idle air control on front of throttle body. 3. connect battery. 4. Start car and set idle with adjustment screw to the RPM you want. 5. Shut down car and wait two minutes. 6. Reconnect idle air control. Shut off all accessories, radio, A/C EVERYTHING. Start car and let it idle for two minutes then shut it down. 7 Wait two minutes, then put ALL accessories ON and start up the car and run for two minutes. Shut car off. Wait two minutes, start car up and see how it does. Hope this helps someone.

[vristang]

Great sticky but because of the name I didn't realise hi idle was included here. The motor is still fairly new. I set the idle per the instructions on a website I was refered to by Hissin50. It worked great and the idle was fine at 900.

Then I reset the timing. As I adjusted the timing the idle increased. I tried to reset the idle following the same process, buty ran out of travel in the idle set screw. I had the screw completely removed and the idle was still at 1000rpm.

After driving a little the idle does not drop below 1100-1200rpm. Jricker made a comment earlier that leads me to believe that the tps would cause this. I would think this to be true even at the retarded timing level I was running when I made my first idle adjustment?

The current timing setting is great. The motor pulls very well until I chicken out, which is about 3500 with the fresh motor. It may be happier with more advance but that would bump my idle even higher.

Do the idle adjusting plates help restrict airflow through the IAC? I saw one here, but it doesn't say much about it.

Oh yeah I am getting codes 33, 44, and 94. Most likely cause that stuff is no longer on the car.
Any help would be much appreciated.

[big_tiger15]

Originally Posted by vristang

Great sticky but because of the name I didn't realise hi idle was included here. The motor is still fairly new. I set the idle per the instructions on a website I was refered to by Hissin50. It worked great and the idle was fine at 900.

Well I saw opened up my IAC hole a lil bit. Till I could fit my thumb in both thru both ways. god it was gunky in there I spent 15 minutes cleaning everything. When i got the car started it idled around 1100 which is of course is to high. I havent tried to reset the idle yet but I pray it works. Here are some pics of the gunk and how small the IAC hole is.

Does anyone have a part number on the PCV? Could the car idle high because of a vaccum leak?

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by big_tiger15

Well I saw opened up my IAC hole a lil bit. Till I could fit my thumb in both thru both ways. god it was gunky in there I spent 15 minutes cleaning everything. When i got the car started it idled around 1100 which is of course is to high. I havent tried to reset the idle yet but I pray it works. Here are some pics of the gunk and how small the IAC hole is.

Does anyone have a part number on the PCV? Could the car idle high because of a vaccum leak?

Yes, vacuum leaks can cause a high idle. All the little hoses get brittle over time and tend to crack and leak.

[vristang]

How about this.

When my timing is retarded to the point that I noticeably loose power, I can adjust the idle to where ever I want. Lower than the 900 that seems to be best, if I wanted to be dumb.

When I advance the timing and make no other change, I runout of travel on the idle set screw before I can get the idle below 1000rpm.

All of the hoses are in good shape as they have all been replaced.

If I had a vac leak wouldn't it still have the same effect with retarded timing?

I checked for leaks yesterday, but will try agin this afternoon just to make sure.

Thanks
jason

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by vristang

How about this.

When my timing is retarded to the point that I noticeably loose power, I can adjust the idle to where ever I want. Lower than the 900 that seems to be best, if I wanted to be dumb.

When I advance the timing and make no other change, I runout of travel on the idle set screw before I can get the idle below 1000rpm.

All of the hoses are in good shape as they have all been replaced.

If I had a vac leak wouldn't it still have the same effect with retarded timing?

I checked for leaks yesterday, but will try agin this afternoon just to make sure.

Thanks
jason

Advancing the timing (within reason) makes the engine speed and vacuum increase on any healthly engine. If you had a small vacuum leak, advancing the timing would still increase the idle speed.

[big_tiger15]

I reset my idle and it still idles like boo boo with the AC on it doesnt surge as much but taking it out of gear and coming to a stop it falls on his face dies or "surges." I reset the idle to around 900 (thats as low as my TB would allow). so I give up with the AC on my car idles better without the IAC. I hate removing stuff like that, but if it does more harm than good...

[vristang]

Originally Posted by jrichker

Advancing the timing (within reason) makes the engine speed and vacuum increase on any healthly engine. If you had a small vacuum leak, advancing the timing would still increase the idle speed.

You were dead on jrichker. My problem was a vac leak. But it was a little tough to find it since it was coming from the lower intake manifold, on the lifter valley side. I was actually pulling full engine vac on the crankcase! Check out the pics, you can actually see the bottom surface of the head through the intake port of the gasket.

[Henpecked]

Ranchero,
I've set the dead stop screw on bottom of the TB, adjusted the TPS to 0.984, opened the bridge in the IAC and unplugged it and for the first time I have a steady 1000 rpm idle.Now for the questions,
1. Do you leave the IAC unplugged?(if I plug mine back up the idle goes to 1200 rpm's)
2.If you don't plug it back up is there anything bad going to happen to the motor?
3.If I wanted an idle of say 800 rpm's how do I adjust to that?

I can live with 1000 rpm's but would like to get to around 750 to 850 my cam is as follows if it helps 544-560,232-242 at .500 with a 112 lobe sep.

Thanks Scott

p.s. great thread!!!!

[vristang]

Originally Posted by Henpecked

Ranchero,
I've set the dead stop screw on bottom of the TB, adjusted the TPS to 0.984, opened the bridge in the IAC and unplugged it and for the first time I have a steady 1000 rpm idle.Now for the questions,
1. Do you leave the IAC unplugged?(if I plug mine back up the idle goes to 1200 rpm's)
2.If you don't plug it back up is there anything bad going to happen to the motor?
3.If I wanted an idle of say 800 rpm's how do I adjust to that?

I can live with 1000 rpm's but would like to get to around 750 to 850 my cam is as follows if it helps 544-560,232-242 at .500 with a 112 lobe sep.

Thanks Scott

p.s. great thread!!!!

With the 112 lsa you should have a pretty good idle, even with all that duration. (I assume a typo, and it s/b 232-242 at .050)???
Basically you unplug the IAC, set the idle where you want it with the set screw, then plug the iac back in. here is a site that details it better though.

Good luck

[Henpecked]

Your right about the typo too many keys not enough fingers : )

That fixed it !!!! for the first time in I don't know when this beast IDLES at about 900 rpm's Thanks!!

set the idle screw.set the tps at .098, bored the IAC motor slightly cleaned it and it worked.

[ONEBADPNY]

i have a problem with mine since i installed a granatelli 75mm my car surges up and down cold or hot. it takes about 2 or 3 minutes to find the steady idle. i have cleaned everything now going to try stock meter next.

[ONEBADPNY]

well iput a stock meter back on and it runs great. so i guess i had two bad meters from granatelli.

[vristang]

Originally Posted by ONEBADPNY

well iput a stock meter back on and it runs great. so i guess i had two bad meters from granatelli.

Did you replace the 2-wire sensor or the tube?

Just curious which was the problem source.

Congrats on finding the solution!!!

[ARMAGEDON]

I am 99% sure the surging idle that I had was being caused by the stator on the distributor. I replaced the dist. and have 5 hours of drive time on the car w/ no surging.

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by ARMAGEDON

I am 99% sure the surging idle that I had was being caused by the stator on the distributor. I replaced the dist. and have 5 hours of drive time on the car w/ no surging.

Did you ever dump the codes and get a code 14 (- Ignition pickup (PIP) was erratic)? Just curious...

[TenorPlayinGuy]

never got the codes when My moms 94's stator went out. Whenever you run the code, it gets cleaned up somehow before it shows it. but the check engine light sure was on when the car wouldnt start.

My car has bad grounds. Thats another one that should be added to the list. I fixed my ground from the battery to the motor mount, and VOILA no more surging, or messed up mornings when the car wont start.

[PrimerdFury]

I'm sure this won't help very many people but I am happy that my idle was restored even though this is a pretty unique situation. When I put my engine back in my car I took it to the dyno. They said I was running really lean and turned up my fuel pressure. After many failed attempts at restoring my idle, i eventually discovered I had forgotten to reattach the ground to my O2s. After that my car was running super rich...so I checked my fuel pressure and it was at like 70psi. Anyway...turned it down to what it is supposed to be at and my car idles perfectly.

[Look Its Aaron]

Got the surge demon with my new LX.

Got codes 41, 91 and 34, while KOEO. I replaced my O2 sensors, and got code 41, and 34 still.

The oxygen sensor is not all the way in (I heard a lil exhaust leak) would that still trip code 41?

The idle on a cold start is about 1k, then drops to about 700 and stays there. When the car gets to running temp is when it starts to surge. When at a stoplight it goes from about 500 - 900, sometimes even shutting off.

I cleaned my TB, IAC, and EGR, but still surging.

Any suggestions?

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by Look Its Aaron

Got the surge demon with my new LX.

Got codes 41, 91 and 34, while KOEO. I replaced my O2 sensors, and got code 41, and 34 still.

The oxygen sensor is not all the way in (I heard a lil exhaust leak) would that still trip code 41?

The idle on a cold start is about 1k, then drops to about 700 and stays there. When the car gets to running temp is when it starts to surge. When at a stoplight it goes from about 500 - 900, sometimes even shutting off.

I cleaned my TB, IAC, and EGR, but still surging.

Any suggestions?

Code 34 Or 334 - EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the flange side of the EGR by mouth. If it leaks, there is carbon stuck on the pintle valve seat, replace the EGR valve ($85-$95).

If the blow by test passes, and you have replaced the sensor, then you have electrical ground problems. Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on the EGR and the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1 ohm. Next check the resistance between the black/white wire and the negative battery post. It should be less than 1 ohm.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.

Let’s put on our Inspector Gadget propeller head beanies and think about how this works:
The EGR sensor is a variable resistor with ground on one leg and Vref (5 volts) on the other. Its’ resistance ranges from 4000 to 5500 Ohms measured between Vref & ground, depending on the sensor. The center connection of the variable resistor is the slider that moves in response to the amount of vacuum applied. The slider has some minimum value of resistance greater than 100 ohms so that the computer always sees a voltage present at its’ input. If the value was 0 ohms, there would be no voltage output. Then the computer would not be able to distinguish between a properly functioning sensor and one that had a broken wire or bad connection. The EGR I have in hand reads 700 Ohms between the slider (EPV) and ground (SIG RTN) at rest with no vacuum applied. The EGR valve or sensor may cause the voltage to be above closed limits due to the manufacturing tolerances that cause the EGR sensor to rest at a higher position than it should.

This will affect idle quality by diluting the intake air charge

Look for a vacuum leak - that would account for the idle problems and the code 41.