[Look Its Aaron]

Originally Posted by jrichker

Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the flange side of the EGR by mouth. If it leaks, there is carbon stuck on the pintle valve seat, replace the EGR valve ($85-$95)

Blow into the part that connects to the EGR spacer right?

"if it leaks" Meaning i the air goes through that lil baloon lookin thing inside the EGR?

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by Look Its Aaron

Blow into the part that connects to the EGR spacer right?

"if it leaks" Meaning i the air goes through that lil baloon lookin thing inside the EGR?

Blow into the hole in the EGR valve that doesn't have the pintle sticking out. That will test the pintle valve's ability to properly seal and not leak.

[jimilane]

My IAC needed replacing due to a low spring tension on the plunger inside the IAC housing. It was dying on startup, then would run with a "hunting" idle, 200-300 rpm), after restarting. I bought a new IAC and it took care of the problem. The new IAC had a much stronger spring tension.

Jim Lane

[gt40_2003wes]

thanks alot guys this checklist relly helped me alot.

[billheis]

Thanks for making this a sticky. An interest side note. Ive tracked mine down to bad O2 sensors and have to wait till payday to get some. So I disconnected the IAC motor and when it goes into closed loop its reading rich and then jacks the timing to full advance and of course the idle goes up

[TrophyHead]

How are you guys getting the 10 pin connectors apart? The salt and pepper shakers. I've been trying for an hour and already snaped 2 clips off. What a pain in the ass. I took the plaque off with the Torx bits.

Any tricks?

[Cobra5.0Jeep]

anyone have the link that gives the directions on adjusting the idle ? I did a search and i didn't find it.

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by Cobra5.0Jeep

anyone have the link that gives the directions on adjusting the idle ? I did a search and i didn't find it.

See the very first post in this thread. It is in there...

[ONEBADPNY]

well i am still have idle problems again. i only seem to have a problem on start up. every time i start my car, cold or hot, it will surge from 1500 to 500 almost dying. i don't understand why it suddenly started this but can a vacuum leak cause this? it runs and idles fine after say 3 or 4 mins. tops. but it happens everytime i start it. really sucks when you stop to get gas and then you cann't leave til you your car starts to idle right.

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by ONEBADPNY

well i am still have idle problems again. i only seem to have a problem on start up. every time i start my car, cold or hot, it will surge from 1500 to 500 almost dying. i don't understand why it suddenly started this but can a vacuum leak cause this? it runs and idles fine after say 3 or 4 mins. tops. but it happens everytime i start it. really sucks when you stop to get gas and then you cann't leave til you your car starts to idle right.

Have you worked your way through the checklist at the first post on this sticky? I revise the checklist whenever someone posts a new item that fixed their problem, so it changes periodically.

[mike0227]

I found my surging idle thanks to your notes regarding MAF turbulence.

Although my CAI was in fender well it appears turbulence was ocurrred due to design of filter. Filter is a cheap cone filter that can be purchased as pep boys, autozone etc.and has the top of cone open (K&N does is closed) this must have caused turbulance at MAF sensors. We resolved problem by first moving it into engine compartment then taping end with duct tape. I will be replacing this filter with a K&N and put it back in the fender soon.

Thanks for your insight.

[subcreep]

Okay, haven't seen my problem on here yet. I just bought a '92 LX HB. It is cammed, and BEEFY! It's only died at startup once, but it was really cold out. The problem is when the engine is warm sometimes it will jump to 1500 rpms when it's idling. Most of the time it idles fine (right around 800 rpm's, but it comes down to idle slowly. Anyway, I am going to tear into it this weeked. Please advise, as I really don't want to just tear intoit without some sort of guidance.

[347lxvert]

i was going through the checklist, will my car give out error codes if the check engine light is not on, because my idle surges intermittently and the light does not come on, but my car is running super rich.

thanks in advance

[vristang]

Originally Posted by 347lxvert

i was going through the checklist, will my car give out error codes if the check engine light is not on, because my idle surges intermittently and the light does not come on, but my car is running super rich.

thanks in advance

You can get trouble codes without the cel coming on.

Always start with the codes.

Good luck

[347lxvert]

i was just told by autozone that 96 and newer were the only mustangs that you could get the codes from w/o the CEL being on, any ideas?

[vristang]

Originally Posted by 347lxvert

i was just told by autozone that 96 and newer were the only mustangs that you could get the codes from w/o the CEL being on, any ideas?

On the A9L in the 5.0 mustangs (fox bodies), the computer can throw codes, but never trigger the cel. I assume this is what you mean? For example, when the O2s start to get out of range, the cel will not trigger (atleast in most cases).
Or, are you trying to pull codes from the computer without using the cel light?

Personally, I would not be too quick to trust the word of a guy who works at a parts store. Don't get me wrong, I have met several parts counter clerks who really knew their stuff. However, the vast majority seem to have very little experience and are still learning.
All I am saying is that you need to consider the source. For example when the Ford dealership that blew the fuse in my stereo while performing a brake inspection, told me that it wasn't their fault and that the stereo was not installed properly, I knew they had no idea what they were talking about.

To pull the codes do a search for responses posted by jrichker (it may even be in this thread). He has a very detailed post on how to pull the codes, even if you do not have a code reader.

just my opinion though
jason

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by subcreep

Okay, haven't seen my problem on here yet. I just bought a '92 LX HB. It is cammed, and BEEFY! It's only died at startup once, but it was really cold out. The problem is when the engine is warm sometimes it will jump to 1500 rpms when it's idling. Most of the time it idles fine (right around 800 rpm's, but it comes down to idle slowly. Anyway, I am going to tear into it this weeked. Please advise, as I really don't want to just tear intoit without some sort of guidance.

See my comments in the first post in the sticky about a faulty TPS.

[Green93Hatch]

I have an E cammed car, and it likes to run very rich and stumble sometimes when i am hard on the throttle. It also idles rich. i guess i need to check the IAC, but i did dump the codes. I was wondering if anybody knew anything about codes 44 and 94? any help on these would be greatly appreciated

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by Green93Hatch

I have an E cammed car, and it likes to run very rich and stumble sometimes when i am hard on the throttle. It also idles rich. i guess i need to check the IAC, but i did dump the codes. I was wondering if anybody knew anything about codes 44 and 94? any help on these would be greatly appreciated

See the first post in this Sticky and Ranchero5.0's comments about what to do for idle problems on cars with aftermarket camshafts.


Codes 94 & 44 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection. Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...nks-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...1eecPinout.gif

[mjlee4usmc]

I have an 88 GT that has been modified. I'm not sure what all was done to it as everything was done before I bought it. It did have a Holly 670CFM Street Avenger with a performer 302 intake, MSD 6A Ignition sysyem and MSD 8582 Distributor. Cam is not stock and the AOD was replaced with a C4 Pro Street trans. I had to have everything taken off (except the cam) to make it meet the new emmissions laws. Now I have the surge and idle stall. The shop that is working on it says it is the cam and trans causing the problem or possibly the ECU. Any Better Ideas?

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by mjlee4usmc

I have an 88 GT that has been modified. I'm not sure what all was done to it as everything was done before I bought it. It did have a Holly 670CFM Street Avenger with a performer 302 intake, MSD 6A Ignition sysyem and MSD 8582 Distributor. Cam is not stock and the AOD was replaced with a C4 Pro Street trans. I had to have everything taken off (except the cam) to make it meet the new emmissions laws. Now I have the surge and idle stall. The shop that is working on it says it is the cam and trans causing the problem or possibly the ECU. Any Better Ideas?

Read the very first post in the sticky if your car is EFI. Everything that I got from the contributors to this sticky has been edited and summarized in it.

If your car is carb'd, sorry, I can't help you.

[vikingpower]

Does disabling the EGR effect the idle? I've tried all this other stuff mentioned here and none of it has helped. When I swapped cams I blocked the exhaust passage from the heads and unplugged the EGR and I cant get the damn to idle under 1500 RPMS.

[jrichker]

Originally Posted by vikingpower

Does disabling the EGR effect the idle? I've tried all this other stuff mentioned here and none of it has helped. When I swapped cams I blocked the exhaust passage from the heads and unplugged the EGR and I cant get the damn to idle under 1500 RPMS.

No.

Unplug the IAB and see if adjusting the idle screw will bring down the idle below 600 RPM. If it won't, the odds are that you have a vacuum leak. Remember that adjusting the idle screw changes the TPS adjustment.

Try this... Currently there is some dispute about setting it at .99 volts being worth the effort, but anything less is probably OK. All you need is less than 1.0 volt at idle and more than 4.25 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). You'll need a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job.

The Orange/White wire is the VREF 5 volts from the computer. You use the Dark Green/Lt green wire (TPS signal) and the Black/White wire (TPS ground) to set the TPS

Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50

When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks. Set it at .97v-.99v, the closer to .99v the better.

(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)

1. Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.

2. When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

3. Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery lead for 10 minutes.

4. Check the procedure for your year, on my 90 I have to turn the idle screw until it just touches the tab, then insert a .010 feeler gauge and give it about one more turn. Then you adjust the TPS voltage to .98v, reset the computer. Start it up, if the idle is to low then turn the screw in until it is just right, then readjust the TPS voltage to .98v and reset the computer and start it up. The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer whenever the idle screw is changed.

[dirtstev]

Man am I glad I found you guys. I came off the freeway this morning w/ the throttle stuck @ 2000+ rpm and it wouldn't stop till I turned the engine off. I've recently cleaned the TB & replaced my vaccuum lines so it looks as though it's the TPS. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I just realized that there was no "check engine" light either. Is that another clue?

[vristang]

Originally Posted by dirtstev

Man am I glad I found you guys. I came off the freeway this morning w/ the throttle stuck @ 2000+ rpm and it wouldn't stop till I turned the engine off. I've recently cleaned the TB & replaced my vaccuum lines so it looks as though it's the TPS. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I just realized that there was no "check engine" light either. Is that another clue?

It is worth pulling the codes still, as the CEL (check engine light) is not always triggered.