Please help fix the tick!

LaserSVT · #1 (**permalink**) 12-06-07, 08:23 AM

I cant stand the damn infamous 4 valve tick anymore Now that its cold out I can hear it more often. Used to be only on a cold start and then after a few min it would almost completly go away, almost. Now I can hear it whenever there is no load, always goes away under load. How do I get rid of it and could someone give me a ruff ballpark on cost. What exactly is the cause? Thanks guys and gals.

**SVT32VDOHC** · #2 (**permalink**) 12-06-07, 10:54 AM

Are you sure it isn't an exhaust leak coming from the donut gasket?? That is where mine was. I was sweating it out for nothing.

LaserSVT · #3 (**permalink**) 12-07-07, 04:43 PM

Yup, Im sure its not the exhaust doughnut. It did it before I put in the h-pipe and the pipe came with a new gasket and it still makes it. I know this is a common problem and would like some input from everyone who has delt with it. I know the sound is comming from the drivers side head, is it a bad lifter or valve guide? If it is eaither one do the heads have to come off or can the lifters and guides be replaced while the heads are on the motor?

32vofFury · #4 (**permalink**) 12-11-07, 09:44 AM

I know you may not believe me due to a lack of posts but i just came over from svtp. The problem is due to a warped valve guide. If you just replace the guide it will move again. You need to replace the heads with the ford revised heads. They have revised coolin passages that prevent the tick. Sometime if you take the valve cover off and re torque the cam caps it can quiet it a little. If you were to call SVT and ask they would say keep an eye on your oil levels and you should be fine. I personally have the tick and i will be doing the even flow cooling mod until i can save up enough money for the new heads. There are 3,000,000 posts over on svtp about this take a look over there. I hope i could help a little.

-Eric

LaserSVT · #5 (**permalink**) 12-11-07, 10:32 PM

Great, so I have to replace the heads

I dont want to get the 99+ heads because than I have to do intake plenum and other small annoying stuff. So whare can I get a good set of "B" heads that wont break me?

32vofFury · #6 (**permalink**) 12-12-07, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LaserSVT

Great, so I have to replace the heads

I dont want to get the 99+ heads because than I have to do intake plenum and other small annoying stuff. So whare can I get a good set of "B" heads that wont break me?

I have a friend that may have a set of cheaop B heads for sale. Let me check with him and I'll get back to you. I believe they were taken off because he went to a built motor not sure though. I'll try to get you more info

LaserSVT · #7 (**permalink**) 01-12-08, 10:19 PM

Well after doing exhaustive searches and talking to you guys I finnaly found the problem. I always thought the 03/04 tick was the same for all 4-v heads and could not figure out why if my heads were new they still did it. Turns out I have several bad hydraulic valve lash guides going out. A mechanic told me to use a large screwdriver and put it against various areas of the engine to localize where the sound is comming from. When I put the tip on the two bolts next to the spark plug wire covers on the valve cover the knock is so loud it hurts my ears, also the second to last bolt on the drives side valve cover. I wondered why if it was bad valve guides (not the lash guides) the sound went away after 1800 rpm and after the engine was nice and warm. It was still there at any rpm when cold (well to 4k, I never push it past that till at operating temp) so I figure since its several I will replace them all. After seeing a few pics and posts it is not all that hard I just have to buy the ford tool ($109), 32 valve lash adjusters ($17.90 each), and a valve cover gasket kit ($67). I guess its cheeper than new heads. I am an old pushrod guy and always said the sound was the same as a dying lifter. I will try a quick fix next oil change, run a quart of ATF in it for 5-10 min then fill it with synthetic blend 5w30 and some Lucas oil additive, mabey it will get unstuck

Since it will be awhile before I could afford it will sticking hydraulic valve lash guides hurt the motor?

**Gearbanger 101** · #8 (**permalink**) 01-18-08, 03:09 PM

If you do have to replace the heads, keep in mind, the Lincoln Mark VIII's use the same casting. You can ususally pick up an entire car for about $500-$1000 at the wrecker. Then you've got all kinds of spare parts.

Mystic1350 · #9 (**permalink**) 10-25-09, 05:37 PM

hey, did u ever get an answer about your problem hurtin the motor? i think i have the same exact problem currently
please letm eknow
thanks

Kilgore Trout · #10 (**permalink**) 10-26-09, 07:38 AM

My car ticks pretty bad with Motorcraft 5W-20 but with Mobil1 5W-30 you can barely hear it.

Try that...

Steve491 · #11 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 03:25 PM

My '97 Engine has 120,000 miles and doesn't tick. 5-20 Castrol.. last oil change..I'm not a fan of synthetic or synthetic blends. Motor oil is motor oil.!

beaststang · #12 (**permalink**) 11-17-09, 05:13 PM

On the 96-98 Cobra it always seems to be the valve lash adjusters, Trick Flow Makes HIPO replacements=Higher RPM's.............And you don't have to remove the cams!!!!!!!

jeremy canter · #13 (**permalink**) 11-17-09, 08:45 PM

all 93-97 ford/Lincon Mark 8's had B heads and are idenical to the 96-98 cobra heads/ only the cams were diffrent ( LESS LIFT ). the lash adjusters can be changed in the car buy removing the valve cover and using a special tool to press-down the valve to remove the roller and then pull the lash adjuster it's a easy job to do> just agravating and time consuming > you will have to remove the upper intake from the car to do this > the gaskets are REUSEABLE there is no need to replace them unless you tear them . if you really go to the extream you can use a little R/V sealant on them to help re-seal the motor > I pulled my whole top of my motor apart and only replace the head gasket's and bolts > I reused ALL THE OLD gaskets with a little R/V and the motor seal up tight as new and you can easally wipe the extra off with a clean rag > BUT USE AS LITTLE AS-POSSIBLE > to help keep from a messy clean up>

**Gearbanger 101** · #14 (**permalink**) 11-17-09, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremy canter

all 93-97 ford/Lincon Mark 7's had B heads and are idenical to the 96-98 cobra heads/ only the cams were diffrent .

They were actually the '93-'97 Lincoln Mark VIII (8). The Mark VII's (7) still used the old 5.0L HO.

As far as the cams go....the Lincoln and the Cobra actually used the same cams from '93-'98. The major engine differences lied mainly in the intake and ECU as well as the Forged Crank in the Cobra vs. Nodular Iron crank in the Lincoln.