[kschmidt]

I have a 308 with stage two trick flow cam , trick flow trackheat heads with 1.7 rollers,trackheat upper and lower intake with 1inch spacer, msd 6al full ignition ,76m throttle body matching mass air wth 30lb injectors,255lph in take fuel pump with bbk ajustable fuel pressure grade set at 43 my question is what typ of timing is everyone using. I see threads on useing spout in and spout out. When setting timing with spout out do i set with engine at at idle to 36 or 38 lock it down and leave? If i am going to put spout back in i see people are setting all the way up to 16 to 21 then put spout back in.dO I bring rpm's up at all to do any timing Can you please help, anyone. p.s i will be putting a 150 shot wet system on it later but i want to get the car to run it's best first before i do so

[2002BLGT]

Originally Posted by kschmidt

I have a 308 with stage two trick flow cam , trick flow trackheat heads with 1.7 rollers,trackheat upper and lower intake with 1inch spacer, msd 6al full ignition ,76m throttle body matching mass air wth 30lb injectors,255lph in take fuel pump with bbk ajustable fuel pressure grade set at 43 my question is what typ of timing is everyone using. I see threads on useing spout in and spout out. When setting timing with spout out do i set with engine at at idle to 36 or 38 lock it down and leave? If i am going to put spout back in i see people are setting all the way up to 16 to 21 then put spout back in.dO I bring rpm's up at all to do any timing Can you please help, anyone. p.s i will be putting a 150 shot wet system on it later but i want to get the car to run it's best first before i do so

set it to 10-13 degrees at idle with the spout connector OUT , then lock the distributor down , recheck to make sure its on 10 and then put the spout connector back in , back it down to 8 or 9 on the 150 shot

[vikingpower]

yes you have to pull the spout out before you measure or change the timing. When you are done put the spout back in. The timing you run is dependent on your C/R and cam timing. I used to run about 16 with a TFS1 cam, TW heads, and stock pistons. Now I have 8cc dome Probe pistons in my new shortblock so I've had to back it down to 8-10. You can use the old hot-rodder technique of backing the timing off until the pinging stops, thats what I do.

[mtlman22]

isnt the spout in and out method only for Base timming? the CPU is still going controll the amount of advance .

[fox bodies rule]

Originally Posted by mtlman22

isnt the spout in and out method only for Base timming? the CPU is still going controll the amount of advance .

You are correct. The stock setup is 10* at the crank, spout out, which keeps the EEC from adding or pulling timing while you are trying to set the base, which is done at idle. The EEC base timing table will give you a max of 21* and the WOT table will get you to 26*. I have left out all of the other variables the EEC uses in the interests of clarity. These numbers are straight out ot the stock A9L .bin file timing tables and contrary to what some will tell you they DO include the 10* base in their totals. So let's say you want 31* total at WOT. 26*-10* base leaves you 16* that the computer will give you leaving you looking for 5 more*. So, if you don't have a way to tune the EEC or a programmed chip, then pull the spout jumper, crank the distributor around to 15* BTDC, lock it down and put the spout jumper back on. You now have a computer that thinks that it is giving you 26* total but you have changed the base and actually have 31* total; 15* at the crank plus the 16* from the EEC. The EEC assumes that your base setting is always 10* which is why you can get away with adding more base and the EEC won't try to adjust it out. If you set yours to 36-38 at the crank with the spout out and then put the spout back in you would actually have 42 to 48* advance at WOT which is a good way to blow holes in the tops of pistons.