[willyv]

Great thread! Thanks for the documentation. Very clean install!
I'm doing the same conversion but with a 93 Mark and the factory AOD. I'm using a Martz front clip. Wish I could weld like you- I had to hire it out.
I cut the side reservoir off my oil pan and brazed up the hole. Looks great but in retrospect, the capacity may be too small now. Guess I can section the bottom. Nice oil pan- lots of baffles and a very tite windage tray.
I looked for headers but had no luck. Pass side is pretty open but the steering shaft limits the drivers side. I was able to use Marauder exaust manifolds to clear the steering and they look like they'll flow pretty well. Looks like they were made for the car.
I'm using the stock intake and throttle body. I don't like the rear throttle body but do like the intake tubes. I figure I can work on the performance stuff once every thing else works.
I started my 65 FB with a 392 plan but once I got the 4cammer in the engine bay..... wow! It's worth the brain damage to get there, although I may have to choose my fights.
What are you doing for an FI wiring harness?
Thanks again for the post.

[wicked93gs]

the Marauder manifolds bolt up to the early heads? the reason I ask is because they usually list later 4valve headers under different part numbers....marauder manifolds would be perfect for me(at least for awhile...eventually it will be twin turbo and I will make my own manifolds)....I won be cutting off the resevoir...doesnt seem to interefere with anything...as far as the engine harness, I will be making it myself...the car will be run off of MegaSquirt, making a harness really isnt that hard(most MS kits come with a harness, but it needs to be trimmed and routed inventively) I have more updates coming tonight when I get a chance

[wicked93gs]

well, on monday I sold my T5...for $300....on tuesday I drove down to Alabama and picked up this T45 for $300(basically a straight trade)....the owner claimed he got it from a guy down in FL and supposedly it has just 26k miles on it...I picked up the steeda shifter from the same guy for another $100(more because I needed a shifter for it than because I wanted a STS right then) also got a free 26k Cobra clutch in the deal....but sadly enough its an 8-bolt flywheel...which according to the sean hyland book the mark viii motor should have....well, sean hyland is wrong....the mark viii engine is a 6-bolt crank...meaning I have to scrounge for a GT flywheel rather than a cobra...I will be using the clutch itself however...also still need to pick up a pilot bearing, TOB, and clutch fork before i can bolt this stuff together and drop it in and start making engine and tranny mounts...delays delays(currently have a deal in the works that should get me the GT flywheel and a starter though)


p.s. I know the T45 is a pretty crappy tranny, but it will bolt up and work well as long as I dont abuse it...I decided against hacking up the T5 to make it work when a straight trade was fairly easy to accomplish....also got a free 35th anniversary shift knob and handle with it...evidently they are in demand? I think its kinda ironic I'll be driving around with that knob in a '66

[willyv]

The Marauders fit fine. I think the different body on the newer Mustangs is the difference with the headers, as the 2V's don't interchange either.
Ports are about the same size as the stock exaust gaskets. I looked at some Cobra manifolds and they looked like wouldn't fit the drivers side. The late Mark left side should fit but the right is junk like the 93-95. I'll send you some pix but it will probably be a few days- somebody 'borrowed' my cameras and computer yesterday and I have to replace them.
Good move on the tranny- you were setting yourself for an awful lot of work adapting the T-5.

[wicked93gs]

well, I havet done my steering linkage yet so I should be able to route it differently...I can use as many joints as I need to clear whatever headers I decide to go with...presumably anyway, since I will be making my own linkage as well, rather than using a kit from someone(currently thats the plan, since I feel they charge too much for what is basically a straight shaft with a couple of u-joints)

[jlangholzj]

in case you didn't notice, i got measurements for you, check in tech!

[mrmustangman357]

why isnt this thread in tech, it is awesome build!

that t45 is a much stouter trans than the t5, i've rebuilt both and the t45 has much larger internals. prepare to cut that crossmember to fit that trans in though, but with the size of your nads taking on this project that shouldn't be a problem.

Good luck on the build

[mdjay]

Nice pics and cool build

Thanks for sharing

If not addressed already, you will want to consider retro fitting in the 67-70 front torque boxes. after the shock tower removal on a 65-66 cp/fb, the only thing left holding the front subframe on the car is the bottom of the cowl. down tubes from the firewall to the front sub are also recommended

[wicked93gs]

I had read about needing to modify the trans tunnel to fit the T45...so while dissapointing, its not surprising, not a big deal either...since a T56 with a .050 6th may go in down the road anyway, might as well do it now....when I get the time anyway

as for the Mustang II front end, well first off, after cutting out the shock towers I really dont believe they added any real structural support except for triangulation with the export braces...or rather let me rephrase that to say that I dont see any way any real load could be tranferred through the sheetmetal behind the shock towers....anyway, that being said my plans are to run extra support from behind the fender on the firewall down to the front frame rail and add some support to design my own export brace setup...I just need to buy some tubing and a chop saw, that along with the trans tunnel are on my to-do list...been working on my daily driver the last few weeks though...as for the torque box retrofit...I would love some more information on that, have a link by any chance?

p.s. didnt put the thread in tech just because I wasnt really sure how much tech was really going to be in it...I never seem to take enough pictures(mainly because it takes time i could be using to work)

[mdjay]

Torque Boxes

Well unfortunately I didn't document this on mine.

It's as simple as trimming two edges and welding them in place. The angles are all the same but the area is just a little tighter.

BTW the American Designer version comes welded together. So you need to spot weld remove them when installing. Kinda silly. However the Dynacorn version comes in pieces and they add the big block gusset that that others don't address.

Jay

[daddy oth]

wicked93gs, how is your build up of DOHC comin' along? i was planning of doing the same w/ my '66 coupe w/ engine and drivetrain out of '98 running cobra(daily driver).

what ifs kit did you get?

do you have to do any cuting on tranny tunnel in order to run t-45?

thank you,

daddyoth

[mrmustangman357]

bump any updaes?

[wicked93gs]

sorry, been offline for awhile guys, I have made some progress, to answer some questions, my progress is slow right now, but coming along, I have made the pasenger side motor mount backet(the thing took me 6 hours to make) the driver's side bracket I am currently working on, but its trickier with the steering linkage in the way of everything over there, currently I am using stock Mark VIII motor mounts(same mounts as a v8 4.6L cougar btw)I'll probably dissasemble them before I am done and replace the rubber with polyurethane....the transmission mount I will be making soon as well, once I think of a good way to do so....as for having to cut the tunnel....I dont think I will...right now I have 4 degrees of tilt without cutting anything...I believe if I cut the top of the stock transmission x-member(just notch out a 6" long part where it runs under the top of the tunnel) then I will be able to get 3 degrees without any more modifications, as for the kit I am using, its a Heidts kit

in other areas of the car...Monday I plan on starting my retrofit of the Fiero seats...looks like it will be pretty simple using the Fiero sliders which I will simply re-mount on some 3/16" plate steel and weld some studs to

[wicked93gs]

One other thing...while in the junkyard the other day I came across a few mark VIIIs...and noticd for the 1st time the passenger side exhaust manifold....which happens to be basically a log-style manifold....which interests me simply because its compact and I can use two of them and do some flipping to point them forward, cut off the collector size and re-weld the exit at the angle I need, also mount some turbo flanges on them, and voila! turbo manifolds for an investment of about $75(including flanges), log manifolds will also be able to clear the oil filter base/water pipe assembly, I figure since its going so slow right now i might as well make it even slower and do the turbo system at the same time....I'll start with a couple 14B mitsu turbos, which according to my calculations will flow well up until the mark VIII manifold begins to be a restriction ayway(around 6k RPM) getting 14Bs will keep it cheap until I'm ready to step up to a couple big 16gs or possily some 20gs(big 16gs most likely)

[Nibroc619]

hey guys, i recently own a 1968 mustang. im just finishing up with the restomod. however i was wondering what it would look like matte black. does anyone know of a place where i can find a picture of one to see if i like it or not? ive searched the web but cant find any... i would really appreciate the help. Thank You

[oh9mustang]

Looks good so far. What does a Junk yard DOHC cost? and what about the computer? When doing a car like this I found it much easier to buy a complete , running car, then you have all the STUFF you need. I like the front end parts, Don't you wish FORD would have done this a long time ago.

[wicked93gs]

a "junkyard" DOHC runs about $150 but I would say a rebuild is a necessity for one of those....a "salvage" yard engine is about $400-$1000 and come with a 3 month warranty on average....mine cost me $600 with 20k miles on it, but I found a mint engine some guy got from a salvage yard and just had sitting in his garage for about 5 years, tough he kept it up right...he was panning on dropping i in a cobra kit car, but decided to build a wild S2000 with a hayabusa v8 instead(evidently some guy builds a v8 block and crank for hayabusa heads....ends up with a 3.0L v8 making 350HP weighing 200lbs)

as for wiring harness and ECU..I will buld my own harness sine I am using Megasquirt(or more correctly Megasquirt 2 v 3.0) which actually has flex fuel sensor support built in(good for me since this will be a flex fuel car Ethanol/Gasoline) MS costs about $400 or so....and I dont need things like MAF sensor anymore(you can use one with megasquirt if you so choose...I do not so choose)...whjich simplifies the whole intake...the transmission I got for $300 with 26k miles....so all told the swap is $1300...plus $1300more for the mustang II kit....so its concievable someone could have a DOHC 4.6L mustang for $2500

[wicked93gs]

alright, more progress and more pictures, finally finished(or almost) the motor mounts, heres some pics







I will re-do this one soon to match the other


no idea what car these are from...I'm assuming a crown vic...just found them on a junk 4.6L

overall picture of the mounted engine in the bay...

picture inside of the shifter area...I have yet to make the tranny mount brackets...they will attach to the frame rails though using a SN95 crossmember


and an overall picture of the car...the first I have even posted...for obvious reasons


if anyone could tell me what the hell wheels I have I would appreciate it...they are 16"

[wicked93gs]

remade the passenger's side mount bracket to match the driver's side....all thats left now is the tranny mount

[jlangholzj]

:b anana::ban ana:



way to go dood! project is looking like its coming along nicely now! geese.....next thing you know, you'll be drivin it

[wicked93gs]

what I have so far for the tranny mount crossmember brackets

the brackets are just tacked in right now...I have to finish welding and add gussets before I trust this to support my tranny

its a SN95 crossmember by the way...the mount itself came from a 3.8L automatic mustang...evidently they use the same mount for all models from base to cobra

[StangDreamin']

Originally Posted by wicked93gs

and an overall picture of the car...the first I have even posted...for obvious reasons


if anyone could tell me what the hell wheels I have I would appreciate it...they are 16"

Outstanding pics all the way through; what a project!
Now, if it were me (ornery SOB-ing B*ST*ARD that I have been known to be at times); I'd try to find the stickiest tires available in 16", put some kind of bland paint job on her, and scare the Be-Jebus out of any idiots threatening me at the nearest track.
(But that's just me, YMMV)

As for the rims ("correct" term for those particular specimens, just read on); I've seen verrr-ry similar factory styles on early-90's S-10 Blazers, and from what I can tell, identical ones on a mid-late 90's Mazda Navajo.
(THINK: "2-Door Ford Exploder")
Don't know if they're factory Mazda, factory Ford, aftermarket (???) or what, but their looks tend to follow through on the 'theme' that you're building. I personally like 'em.

[nugget68]

Originally Posted by wicked93gs

alright, more progress and more pictures, finally finished(or almost) the motor mounts, heres some pics







I will re-do this one soon to match the other


no idea what car these are from...I'm assuming a crown vic...just found them on a junk 4.6L

overall picture of the mounted engine in the bay...

picture inside of the shifter area...I have yet to make the tranny mount brackets...they will attach to the frame rails though using a SN95 crossmember


and an overall picture of the car...the first I have even posted...for obvious reasons


if anyone could tell me what the hell wheels I have I would appreciate it...they are 16"

Bronco II/Ranger Wheels...

[wicked93gs]

well, today I modified the Fiero seat tracks and bolted them in, thought I would show how I did it...it was actually the simplest thing I have done so far....the front hole spread is close enough that you can just slot them out a little and it will line up fine...the back holes are another story...


you can see here where I simply cut off the mounting feet.....

moved them down to an 11" spread(front to back) and re-welded them
I then cut the head off of a 7/16 fine thread 2" bolt(making it a stud) and welded it in...

making sure it was 14" spread side to side

at the front I welded bolts in....the finished product looked like this...though one of the bolts wasnt perfectly straight, it still worked

and here we have them installed, now I need to re-cover them with some mrmike covers, and install some speakers in them...modifying the fiero brackets has one huge advantage for tall people....I am 6'3" and if I put the seats all the way back I cant even press down the clutch all the way(though I dont have the clutch assembly installed yet)

edit: the adjustment mechanisms are on the inside of the seat where they are not as visible, and now I have seats that dont hurt my back if I drive for over an hour(though I have yet to ever actually drive this thing

[wicked93gs]

well, today I went to the junkyard looking for a 7/8" bore master cylinder....for my planned 4 wheel manual disc setup...and I found one in an 84? thunderbird...the ports are on the passenger side...but oh well, I'll deal with that later....anyway, as I was walking through the junkyard I saw a couple 94 mark VIIIs that have been there for a couple months...but I then stumbled on a 98 mark VIII as well...jackpot! I've been looking for one because I wanted the intake manifold...anyway some pictures...ignore the oil and dirt...I just need to clean and paint it....






when everything is tightened down there is about 1/8" clearance between the TB and the PCV valve boss in the valve cover...yikes! may need to clearance the valve cover slightly before bolting everything together



here's my clearance(or lack thereof) between the master cylinder and the drivers side valve cover(ignore the hole punched in it from whoever removed the engine...the valvetrain stuff is all fine...just need a new valve cover, regardless I think I will be able to trim a small amount off of the master cylinder to increase clearance slightly...oddly enough I dont think the brake lines will be an issue as long as I use tight radius bends