[bikefreak600]

wow man you have a big project, keep up the good work

[wicked93gs]

heh, I dont have nearly as much work on this nightmare as when I started...was just a stripped down shell, within a couple weeks if I'm lucky I should have it stopping and steering...at the very least I'll have it stopping(thats one advantage of manual brakes I guess)

[wicked93gs]

my progress today was pretty good for being a weeknight....


tonight I got the front brakes plumbed(ignore the line going up...it was a test line, making sure I could make the tight radius bend I needed to clear the VC without kinking the line...I did without too much issue...note: the 85 master cylinder I pulled from the junkyard may have been good...but since this cast aluminum rebuilt unit was only $17 I couldnt resist the chance to save a pound or so(and have a MC that will never rust)

the clearance here is about 1/8"....I actually had to grind on the MC just a touch...I could probably grind another 3/16" away if it turns out I need to...I personally don't think i will have to


did a quick and dirty restoration on the pedals and pedal support....mainly because I'll be tearing them back out again at some point to do my hydraulic clutch setup...as well as a roller bearing conversion....I need a damn gas pedal though...havent had any luck finding one


my 5.0L UPR fuel rails fit fine as far as injector spacing goes...no manifold interference either...I just need to fab some mounting brackets for them and they are good to go

[wicked93gs]

well, another productive junkyard day for me....


this is a gas pedal assembly from a 97 mark viii...5" pedal centers with the gas pedal 2" lower than the brake...the same as an 05+ mustang(I measured) although on the 05 the gas pedal is actually 1 3/4" lower...so I need to space the pedal out anther 1/4" or so...the pedal itself however is hideous...I'll need to find some pedal covers that actually look good....


my wilwood porportioning valve came in today...mocked up and half plumbed in this picture...I wont be using hinges on this car...hood wll be a full pin on


the throttle cable from the same mark...I can sit in the drivers seat and actuate the throttle body...makes the car seem a lot closer to completion for some reason


I found a big block truck in the junkyard as well with a C6...took me a few minutes to figure the U-joint out(first time I've had to do it) but at $7 its a tenth the cost of a new one...and for the record it does fit the T45

[wicked93gs]

spent the day today pulling off the entire front suspension, painting it, and re-installing...wish I had done it the first time around, would have been much simpler...I still have to touch up the paint on the frame,





it looks decent now...its more rust prevention than show though...this is after all going to be a driver, not a show car

p.s. in other news while I had the wheels off I measured the backspacing on them...it actually ended up being 4.25" which doesnt mean much since I'm not planning on using these wheels....however since the tires stick out 1/2" past the fenders on either side with the lincoln rear end, it means that if I use 4.75" backspaced wheels I will get the correct spacing....although maybe not if the width increases...uggh, I hate wheels and trying to find the right size...luckily they are last on my list...the rear end will most likely be changed again before I ever get to that point...I've been playing with the idea of an IRS 8.8" assembly from a Mark VIII lately

[wicked93gs]

not too much progress lately, been busy with other stuff


I fond what looks to be an old grant wheel in the junkyard on a 65 F100, so I pulled it and installed it on my column...seems to fit fine...temporary wheel only, this is rather ugly and not what I want...but for $10 it lets me concentrate on other things for awhile


the other day while at work I was able to pick up a scrap of stainless for free...I'll be using it for my console...but I will be brushing it with a wire brush an coating it with some type of coating to take off as much of the shine as I can...I want it to look like brushed aluminum when I get done with it(or fairly close) I suppose I might be able to paint it with aluminum paint with an actual paintbrush?

[wicked93gs]

well, no pictures today, but I installed my pilot bearing, block spacer plate, and clutch today, used a new throwout bearing and a 96 mustang v6 clutch fork(evidently clutch forks are the same for ANY T5(v6 or not) as well as the T45...also dropped the engine and tranny back in for the last time(it was PITA for some reason and didnt want to go in today..took 4 hours) I also decided I was unhappy with the mark viii gas pedal I was using simply because it put the throttle cable out too low...so I test fit one from a 72 mustang, it looks like it should work perfectly....also test fit my 01 Cobra exhaust manifolds...a good fit...though it looks as if the steering linkage will almost certainly have to be 2 part...at this point the only mechanical things left to do to the car are the driveshaft(easy enough)steering, and the clutch fork actuation...havent decided on whether I want cable or hydraulic...leaning toward hydraulic since it wont be much more and allows me better routing options...other than that, all my moving parts are finished(still have the cooling system, electrical, and fuel before the car can start however, then interior, body, and paint before the car is finished) I'll get some pics up this weekend

[rpk]

I would use the cobra IRS. There are more off the shelf performance parts for it. Plus it is bolt in with a DVS kit. I have a t-bird IRS in my 67 fast back and using 17x8 bullets from the new edge mustangs. They did stick out but my body guy flared out the rear quarters,without using wheel flares. Also if you want the cobra brakes out back there is a caliper relocation bracket you will need from North Race Cars. You'll have to change the rear hubs to cobra hubs too.

[jlangholzj]

W000000000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[wicked93gs]

well, I'd like to use the cobra IRS, but there is no way I'm paying more for a kit to install that rear end than I am for the rear end itself....if I can find one, I'll build the needed brackets myself...regardless if I use a cobra IRS I would need both late model wheels and wheel flares(no big deal since I was wanting to flare my fenders anyway, I can just buy some pre-flared fiberglass front fenders when the time comes)

[rpk]

Hi ,the irs is nice,but mostly just candy.My next build will be a 4 link with coil overs,tough,cheap and easy

[wicked93gs]

alright, for those of you that missed my posts that took forever to load...more pictures...



as you can see, my 01 Cobra manifolds fit perfectly fine....installing the gaskets was a PITA though...since 2 bolts on each side were directly above the mounts and below the manifolds...took about 45 minutes a side just to install the gaskets


another overall shot of the car...havent been working on it as much lately since I had to move it to a storage unit...a glorified car port


random shot of the finalized shifter location...I think the 35th anniversary shift knob is a nice touch


also took out my mark viii gas pedal and installed this today...its from a 70 coupe I found in the junkyard...poor car...I figured part of it would live on


shot of the clutch fork area....I have to find some way to mount a slave cylinder here somewhere...I figure a hydraulic clutch will be cheaper than a cable clutch...and from my experience with building my brake system I figure I can handle the challenge


note the cables in this picture...there is the throttle cable...but the other to cables are from the IMRC control box which I mounted on the back of the driver's side head...I couldnt find a Cobra or 97-98 Mark box(earlier marks used vacuum actuators....but since I am using a 98 manifold...it requires electro-mechanical actuators) I used a box from a FWD continental instead...it seems to work fine(I hope) it connects perfectly anyway


the finally installed(temporarily) intake manifold, I cleaned up the plastic(phenolic) IMRC plates that came with the 98 manifold and installed new intake and exhaust manifold gaskets


yesterday I went to the mustang and ford show here in ashville and found my local speed shop was selling a cut to length driveshaft for $60...mild steel, but I think its a good option since this rear end is temporary anyway

I now have working brakes...working throttle....just a few mechanical things left to go and I can move on to fuel and cooling....the steering linkage(speaking of which, I finally picked up a steering column support, got it from a 68 galaxy in the junkyard....it will take minor modification but should work fine) I still need clutch actuation...and the driveshaft....then the engine will be connected to the wheels and I'll be able to stop and steer...the basics

[wicked93gs]

some more progress today(no pictures yet though)..
I picked up a mark VIII radiator and after trimming away some plastic it fits right down between the frame rails...still need to pick up the matching an and open up the radiator support to flow more air to the core(and I decided I wanted to set the radiator back under the radiator support to keep maximum room in the engine bay

I also ran my new EZ-wiring kit and tore out all that remained of the stock stuff(a whole tailight harness)...I cant actually wire anything up until I get my ECU and EDIS-8 unit but most of the wiring is where it needs to be

I also measured for my driveshaft today...it ends up being 52 7/8" from pinion flange to transmission output...I did this because yesterday I picked up a cut-to-length driveshaft...and today I found an aluminum driveshaft from an aerostar...tomorrow I'll drop off the aluminum unit to get it shortened and balanced(I'll end up taking theother one back)

[wicked93gs]

alright, I get a chance to show some more pictures, and to update my progress a bit...enjoy!(or not)





first up we have the mark VIII radiator...I cut the support out to allow air to flow over the entire core...I figured I may as well use the entire mark cooling system just as it came from ford....except for the coolant overflow tank...I think I will modify the mark power steering resevoir tank instead and use that in its place since it will look cleaner(and I dont have power steering)





here we have new wiring...I used an EZ wiring kit that I got off ebay...it was listed for a 67 bronco, but I figured that was close enough...I wanted plenty of wire to work with...I am trying to get away with just the engine harness in the engine bay coming through the firewall, everything else will be routed around the frame somewhere








and here we have my modified stock column mounted and connected to the rack via my beautiful homemade steering linkage I made from ebay parts...total cost of about $110...much better than the $250 Heidts or R&C wants...for an uglier kit to boot...for the shaft itself I cut up a steering shaft from a 67 F100 I found in the junkyard...I figured I would give at least part of it new life


my oil filter relocation kit...still no idea where I am going to put it...I'm going to have to change the lines though...these end up kinking because the frame rail is so close...I'm thinking some flare fittings and hydraulic hoses...cheaper than the SS line route and just as effective...I say that now but most likely I will end up just going SS like I usually do...I had to go SS in my turbo neon with the oil filter relocation kit because these lines leaked...the lines will cost twice as much as the kit, how sad




and last but not least my aluminum shortened aerostar driveshaft...4" in diameter...total cost $107($15 for the shaft in the junkyard...92 to get it shortened)

[krash kendall]

This build should be a stickey...

.....really, I mean it.

[StangDreamin']

Originally Posted by wicked93gs

my oil filter relocation kit...still no idea where I am going to put it...I'm going to have to change the lines though...these end up kinking because the frame rail is so close...I'm thinking some flare fittings and hydraulic hoses...cheaper than the SS line route and just as effective...I say that now but most likely I will end up just going SS like I usually do...I had to go SS in my turbo neon with the oil filter relocation kit because these lines leaked...the lines will cost twice as much as the kit, how sad

I know it's too late for you now; but, I'm just getting the "sandwich adaptor" and filter mount from $ummit; along with some AN fitting and hose for my truck's 5.4.

Also, no offense, but after looking at the pictures of this part of the build; all I can say is "YOU SUCK! I HATE YOU!" for having all that room to run the relocation kit!

Luckily, I can at least SEE my oil filter; but, with the P/S hoses, steering box, tranny cooler lines, front differential carrier and associated bracketry, left half-shaft, and about 155,000 other things in the way; I ended up buying a filter wrench with a 3" hand-grip, and can only move it aprrox. 1/16th of a turn at a time before banging into something else.

If I can ever get a day to myself, and can get the sandwich adaptor to clock right when tightened down (so the hose fittings aren't pointing at the exhaust manifold); the filter's going in front of the core support and below the bumper, more-or-less behind the left tow hook.

Times like this; I miss my old F100; with enough room underhood to get at all the stuff hanging off the sides of the FE.

[wicked93gs]

I do have a question that concerns me here....if you notice where this U-joint connects to the column shaft, instead of welding the connection(no room and it needs to come apart) and because this isnt a double D shaf, I drilled a hole through the entire joint and shaft and use a nut and a bolt to secure it...a 6mm bolt to be exact...I would like an opinion on whether this bolt will be large enough diameter to prevent shearing as I am driving down the road...right now its a grade 8 bolt...but it is an area of concern to me...I'll probably drill it bigger o be on the safe side once everything is apart again for paint

other than that the steering is crisp and responsive...the last thing left to do as far as moving parts go is a cable clutch conversion(and cut my coils down...but I cant do that till I get fenders)

[mustang50v8]

i know its a bit late for this info, but if you are still looking at putting a marauder intake on your motor it will not work. the intake ports on the heads are different as your motor and 96-98 cobra motors have "B" heads and all 4v motors 99+ (cobra, marauder, avaitor, mach 1) are "C" heads. yours has a variable length intake runner system where an actuator opens flaps to change the the runners at a certain RPM.

[wicked93gs]

I know that now...I ended up with a 97-98 mark manifold, it will work well enough for me for now anyway, well after I get it cleaned up and powdercoated

[wicked93gs]

well, today I went ahead and installed a Steeda clutch quadrant/firewall adjuster/adjustable cable kit today...this is the first revision...later ones to follow till I get it exactly the way I want it...a note...this quadrant is a double hook quadrant..you probably would not be able to use the firewall adjuster with a single hook quadrant...triple hook quadrants probably wouldnt work either, there is not enough vertical room to do this as I would like to begin with, regardless of aftermarket fox/SN95 quadrant used...anyway, on to the pictures....


nothing special here, just a shot from the tranny area....I did realize though that I need to get a cable retaining clip eventually


the cable is routed behind the motor mount bracket and I ground off the tab on the mounting bracket and mounted it directly to the inner fender(though I dont even know why this bracket is needed)


it enters the firewall here, a bit off from other conversions I have seen....I drilled a 1 3/8" hole here to fit the firewall adjuster in...my pilot it broke however so I ended up scuffing the metal a bit...oh well, more touch up to do....I do still need to add some type of firewall re-inforcement...possibly some angle iron that can attach to the cowl pinch joint as well as the firewall






some under the dash pictures of the pedal modification...this is the part I am unhappy with...while it works the pivot action of the quadrant is not ideal since the pivot point is below the stock pivot it causes the issue of travelling in an arc while pivoting...reducing the amount of travel in the pedal...or effective travel....however there is currently not enough room to mount the pivot correctly....I have been consiering cutting the cowl area(since it will be blocked off anyway) and raising the quadrant




I do have a question however....I have about 3/4"-1" of movement at the clutch fork when the pedal is depressed, I am pretty sure this is enough to engage the clutch, but thought I would ask...I know in my eclipse 1/2" is enough on a slightly shorter fork...so any help there would be appreciated


p.s. while I was welding the bolts on the clutch arm, I had forgotten I needed to disassemble it....so I melted the bushing...heh, oh well, was going to upgrade to a roller setup anyway...te whole assembly needs to come aprt again anyway for paint

[Silvertooth]

Wow!!!!!!!!!! Nice work.I am the guy in the teal mustang that bought the t5.The net makes it a small world.
You have come a long way. Nice work.

[krash kendall]

A week with no update? What-up bro? Some of us are living vicariously through you!

[wicked93gs]

heh, dont worry, I'll install a mark viii fan today...it will take a whole five minutes to do too(I've been sick this week so my parts aquisition isnt up to par) but at least it will fill up the engine bay some more

hey silvertooth, hows it going? hows the t5 working for you? this thing is creeping along it feels like to me, after I re-do my quadrant setup though, thats it for moving parts and I can focus on fuel and cooling system and wiring...then the thing will at least start and move under its own power

[wicked93gs]

alright, just finished installing my mark viii an...since I'm using a mark viii radiator...there were zero mods...it was dissapointing to me...just two bolt, no cutting, no welding, no shroud trimming...ah well, I did find something I could modify anyway though....I'll get to that when I post that picture...


for those of you who haven't seen a mark viii fan...they are pretty big...presumably they are one of the highest flowing stock fans(if not the highest)



I still have plenty of room in the engine bay...I was kinda hoping it would fill it in more...I could fit my turbos up here if I didn't want them to be remote mount for better weight distribution




and here I found something I can modify to work better...notice the slight gap between the shroud and the radiator? the factory didn't do a very good fitment job...I'll be filling this gap with some of that foam stripping that is sticky on one side(like what comes with a cooktop to install between the glass top and the countertop) might as well get the best cooling I can out of the setup

[Silvertooth]

Originally Posted by wicked93gs

heh, dont worry, I'll install a mark viii fan today...it will take a whole five minutes to do too(I've been sick this week so my parts aquisition isnt up to par) but at least it will fill up the engine bay some more

hey silvertooth, hows it going? hows the t5 working for you? this thing is creeping along it feels like to me, after I re-do my quadrant setup though, thats it for moving parts and I can focus on fuel and cooling system and wiring...then the thing will at least start and move under its own power

The t5 is perfect.I think I told you at the time.That I had just pulled the engine and installed a timing chain,seals,etc and was going to install the t5 and be done with the mustang,well..............it now has,GT40P heads,trick flow stage one cam,A9L, and 3.73,s and crane ignition.I just can,t leave anything alone.
You really are making good progress.I,m glad I found this thread.Keep us posted.It,s looking great.