[COBRAIIW]

I am changing back to my 4 speed, the C-4 has seen better days.
The 77 was originally a 4 speed, and I never took out the pedal, so it's not going to be hard to change back, or so I thought!
The shop that I took my RAD-4 to says that they can get the seals, synchros, and bearings no problem, but the gears are badly worn and they can't locate any new ones.
I picked up another RAD-4 for $100, and took it to them, maybe they can make a good one from two. I hope the gears are good in that one.
I bought a clutch kit from summit racing, part no. MU30-1, and the balancing shop told me that the pressure plate bolt pattern doesn't line up! AAARRRGHH!
I thought that the guy who owned the car before me had used the flywheel from the '86 HO engine that was in there, which was a 157 tooth, so i asked them to count the teeth.
They said it was a 148 tooth. ???????
I thought that the flywheel had the same as the 141 tooth automatic flexplate!
Anyhow, I am looking to find a 10 in. 10 spline 1-1/6 in dia shaft clutch kit.
Summit racing says that that is the kit that they show in the books, but obviously not.
Pheonix has one listed, does anyone know if that one is correct?
....and does anyone have new RAD-4 gears?

I miss my 4 speed.

[Steel Steeds]

This is just one of the many reasons so many people convert to the T-5...

[COBRAIIW]

I might do that in the future, but from what I've read, it involves some fabrication work.

[Steel Steeds]

The transmission crossmember needs to be fabricated, or there are a few pre-fab units floating around out there. I bought one but it didn't work for my application (used the Fox bellhousing, instead of the II version), so I sold it to someone else. Aside from that, and enlarging the hole in the transmission tunnel for the shifter to fit through, it was a bolt in.

[Dano78]

Originally Posted by COBRAIIW

They said it was a 148 tooth. ???????
I thought that the flywheel had the same as the 141 tooth automatic flexplate!
Anyhow, I am looking to find a 10 in. 10 spline 1-1/6 in dia shaft clutch kit.

Yep that's right, 148 Tooth for a II V8 Flywheel. Yeah I dunno what to say about the clutch situation. If you had cores, you could probably send the pressure plate and disc out to be rebuilt. RAM clutches use to carry a clutch kit for the V8 IIs, but not sure now...

[feeble]

Several of us on MustangII.net have been able to get V8 clutch kits for the II from Ft Wayne Clutch. They will reline the disc as dual friction for $100. They will also rebuild if you have a core. Unless you find old stock on someone's shelf, this is the only source for clutches that I am aware of.

[kcobra302]

i bought a kit from fort wayne last summer. very nice clutch, huge improvement over any stock set. went with kevlar unit. when i get home tonight i will see if i can track down the part numbers for you.

[COBRAIIW]

Thanks!

[JSH68]

Originally Posted by COBRAIIW

I am changing back to my 4 speed, the C-4 has seen better days.
The 77 was originally a 4 speed, and I never took out the pedal, so it's not going to be hard to change back, or so I thought!
The shop that I took my RAD-4 to says that they can get the seals, synchros, and bearings no problem, but the gears are badly worn and they can't locate any new ones.
I picked up another RAD-4 for $100, and took it to them, maybe they can make a good one from two. I hope the gears are good in that one.
I bought a clutch kit from summit racing, part no. MU30-1, and the balancing shop told me that the pressure plate bolt pattern doesn't line up! AAARRRGHH!
I thought that the guy who owned the car before me had used the flywheel from the '86 HO engine that was in there, which was a 157 tooth, so i asked them to count the teeth.
They said it was a 148 tooth. ???????
I thought that the flywheel had the same as the 141 tooth automatic flexplate!
Anyhow, I am looking to find a 10 in. 10 spline 1-1/6 in dia shaft clutch kit.
Summit racing says that that is the kit that they show in the books, but obviously not.
Pheonix has one listed, does anyone know if that one is correct?
....and does anyone have new RAD-4 gears?

I miss my 4 speed.

If you need a 148 tooth ringhear for the stock rad4 flywheel, get in touch with Phil Schmitt. He advertizes on the mustangII.net site. He should have some (I know because I made them for him). I make a batch every now and then and he retails them for me.

[COBRAIIW]

I might just do that, the ring gear wasn't so great, but still usable.
The previous owner had multiple starter problems, but didn't say what was the cause. Probably using the incorrect starter.

[$50COBRAII]

Originally Posted by COBRAIIW

I might just do that, the ring gear wasn't so great, but still usable.
The previous owner had multiple starter problems, but didn't say what was the cause. Probably using the incorrect starter.

You can remove the ring gear and flip it and back on.

[Wart]

Originally Posted by $50COBRAII

You can remove the ring gear and flip it and back on.

If the ring gear can be removed without damage it may be able to be reinstalled rotated 45 or 135 degrees. Most ring gears have a relief cut into the teeth so the gear really shouldn't be flipped.

Usually ring gears are removed by creating a localized weak point and fracturing the ring.

Removing the ring without damage may (probably/more than likely) require heating and expanding the ring. Heating the ring could be real interesting since it's so firmly squeezing a big heat sink. Take a little more than a propane soldering torch.

[Tazz]

If the ring gear does not have a chamfer on it, you can flip it over and re-use it. It will take some work to do this. You will need an Arbor press with adjustable fingers and an oven that can reach 450F. Center the flywheel and use lift blocks to get it off the main table about 2". 6 to 8 adjustable fingers are moved in to the edge of the flywheel and rest on the ring gear. Pull like crazy to press the gear off. Heat the ring gear to 450F for 1 hour. Flip the flywheel over. Reset the adjustable fingers. Here is where you have to work fast. Place the hot ring gear on the flywheel, lower the press until you make contact, and pull the handle to press the gear on. You can use a hammer and 1" round aluminum rod to finish seating the ring gear.

[COBRAIIW]

I just verified that the kit I got from summit, which was Zoom, is absolutley NOT the right kit.
I ordered MU30-1.
Holes do NOT line up, and it appears to be too large overall.
I am calling Ram clutches, the have two kits listed.
O.E.M. kit is part number 88501
Powergrip kit is 98501.
since I put in the 351w, I'm opting for the powergrip kit.
Look at the photos to see the MU30-1 problem.

edit;
I just called Ram, both kits are discontinued.
Calling Ft. Wayne next.

edit;
Ft.Wayne clutch kit is available! but not for much longer. 1-800-258-8243
part number is 07-009
the tech guy said that you could also use the CA0025 kit, which is for the 79-83 mustang, it has the same diameter, and spline, and spacing, but hole redrilling would be required either on the pressure plate, or the flywheel.
I hope all this info helps someone else out too!

[feeble]

I went through all of this last year, that I can find, other than FT Wayne clutch, there is no other supplier right now for the V8 clutch for the II. Here is a copy of my invoice, included clutch disc, pressure plate, TO bearing, bronze pilot bushing and alignment tool.

[kcobra302]

i have not been able to track down my reciept. its probably in the car but i am in the process of cleaning the winter gear out of the garage to get to the car.

like i said earlier, the fort wayne clutch works really good. to bad they will not be offering it anymore

found the receipt:

part number 07-009 - 76-78 mustang 302" 5.0l - kevlar dual friction - $270.31