[mustang11]

my temp guage reads hot when the engine is cool enough to touch. It starts at cool than works up to hot. People told me to take the radiator cap off and try to get rid of air. when i did that coolant shot out of the radiator cap. when i stop the car the coolant in the reservoir was gurgling. when i pinched the little hose that goes from the reservoir to the radiator cap the gurgling stoped. i recently replaced my thermostat. i dont know very much about this subject so i dont know if this is normal.

[ttocs]

wait, it start off hot?

You have not changed any of the gauges to white face and had to remove any needles have you? It sounds like your needle could be on wrong.

[yukisho]

Well like others said in your previous topic, get some aftermarket gauges. It'll save you a lot and will give you an exact temp. As for the gurgling, I came across that when I replaced my radiator. I found out that I over filled my radiator with coolant(yes, you can do that). Run your car for about 15 minutes with the cap off of the radiator, don't pump the hose this time though. Let it cycle the coolant. Watch the coolant level make sure it's moving. If it's not moving then you have a water pump issue and it could be dead.

Just my 2 cents from experience.

[mustang11]

sorry for the dumb ? but where is the coolant level

[mustang11]

no i meant the air coming out of the vents starts hot and then gets cooler

[toyman]

Originally Posted by yukisho

I found out that I over filled my radiator with coolant(yes, you can do that).

Really???

It's only overfilled if you want to leave the cap off while it warms up without overflowing. If the radiator is filled to the top the coolant and with the cap on flows to the reservoir when the pressure reaches 16 psi. This will ensure that air is not sucked back into the system when it cools.

You really don't want air space in the rad.

[yukisho]

Originally Posted by toyman

Really???

It's only overfilled if you want to leave the cap off while it warms up without overflowing. If the radiator is filled to the top the coolant and with the cap on flows to the reservoir when the pressure reaches 16 psi. This will ensure that air is not sucked back into the system when it cools.

You really don't want air space in the rad.

I know, I had to leave the cap off while it was on so I could get the coolant filled up. I have bad sight at night and had gotten to the end of the install at night, so it was hard to see how much coolant I had in there. Was more of a personal problem

[nmcgrawj]

Why did you start a new thread?


1.) Get all the air out of the system. Easy to do.

2.) Get a new sensor for your gauge.

3.) If that doesnt work....im gonna lean towards a head gasket being popped

[soulfried]

I have the same problem as Mustang11, but when I accelerate the gauge goes down, then back to real high. Think it's the gauge going out. The car runs fine, but want to be sure. Check the water level every time before I run it, and only twice has it been a little low.

Same thing is going on with my oil gauge, locked at zero, used to stay in the middle while I was driving and goes to zero at a stop.

Planning on switching to better gauges, anything else to pay attention to/replace while I'm already in there? Going to replace the sending unit, but any other hints as what to look for?