[fdrulis]

I have a 70 coupe 351w. i replace the battery, solenoid, and checked the ground on the engine. The starter won't crank nor is there any power to any lights on the car. Every once in a while, the car will get power, but if I try to start it, I loose all power. Don't think it is the starter switch, but I don't know if there is a fusable link anywhere that would cause this. Any thoughts?

[BarnStang]

Battery cables/connections...check that first.

[fdrulis]

I checked, and cleaned all of the battery cables and the connections on the solenoid. I am at a total loss.

[6Stang7]

Is the battery grounded to the body as well?

[BarnStang]

Are you getting the solinoid to click every time you turn the ign switch from RUN to START?
Where the positive battery cable attaches to the solinoid, there should be a ring terminal there that feeds power inside the car. Make sire that is a good connection. Make sure your batt cables where they go into the batt terminals are not corroded/loose/poor connection. Not just the where it attaches to the battery itself.
If you are not getting the solinoid to click when you cycle the key back and forth between RUN and START, and you are certain the cables/connections are good, then either the battery is dead or you have some problem with the the START circuit. CHeck a little more and post back.

[fdrulis]

Thanks. I do not get any clicking sound when I try to start the car. I will replace both cables this weekend. I do have a wire that is attached to some sort of relay (not sure what it is) to the battery side of the solenoid. So this is what feeds the power to the inside of the car? Does this feed the ignition switch inside the car also? If so, could this little relay be bad? Can I connect that wire directly to the battery side of the terminal? Thanks.

[Tim65GT]

No power to any lights and no solenoid engagement indicates a problem with the battery/cables. The relay was likely added for auxiliary lights or accessories. It shouldn’t affect your starting issues.

[2+2GT]

Do you by any chance have the crappy battery terminals that look like this?

If so, get a set of repro OEM types, or at least the auto store ones that have the terminal moulded on.

[fdrulis]

All, thanks for your help. After replacing the battery cables, battery, solenoid, checking and cleaning all connections, and a lot of head scratching, I finally found the problem. The wire connecting the ring terminal on connecting to the black feed that goes to the ignition switch, fuse panel, and the head lights, was broken, but the plastic coating was still in tact, so I did not find the break until I started checking all of the wiring with an OHMs meter. What fun! Thanks again for all of your help.

[woodsnake]

thanks for posting the solution!