[pyroman]

I'm going to replace the steering box one of these days with a rack and pinion. I'm aware of aftermarket racks from Flaming River and TCP (although I hear Flaming Rivers are junk). However, they are quite expensive. What other options are there? I've heard that steering racks from some Chrysler cars like the Neon can be mounted in our cars I think. Anyone done this?

Also, has anyone ever attempted to make their own? I imagine building a manual rack wouldn't be too difficult provided you have access to the right equipment.

EDIT: I just saw a similar thread below. Well consider this an elaboration.

[camachinist]

Back when the race car was relatively stock chassied (front half), we put a Pinto R/P in it. The early flex-shaft version. It's worked fine all these years. I wouldn't do it on a street car simply because of the liability. I'm glad those companies providing the aftermarket units have lots of liability insurance

Simply, we swapped the spindles side for side, retaining the drum brakes, and went from a strut rod to trailing arm and built a cross-member to mount the RP. This picture shows the modern-day (if mid-80's is modern day) version. You can still see the original crossmember, but I went back to a forward strut rod when I built the MacPherson struts. Everything is homemade. No failures in over 20 years of racing. No way would I run it on the street but that's me.

I'm sure there would be a way to adapt the myriad of OEM racks out there to a more modern design. One positive side effect of the Pinto setup is the steering wheel still has a running horse on the horn blow, except it's a Pinto

[Edster]

I've read that the R&P conversion gives you a larger turning circle, something I would not want to sacrifice.

[camachinist]

That can be true and is adjusted by both the length of the rack as well as the distance from the spindle steering attachment point to the spindle centerline. I purposely lengthened the latter to lessen the effects of steering inputs since the car was used mainly for going in straight lines. The steering always has felt solid, even at over 120mph and during high speed braking when bracket racing.

Another issue is engineering to mitigate bump steer, which can be a potential issue with some rack conversions. Getting those centerline distances accurate is so important. I had some minor bump steer with the OEM suspension but engineered it out when converting to MacPherson struts by lengthening the lower control arm. Worked great.

[unrealmach1]

I started to do a Tauras rack conversion and then got a great deal on a Unisteer rack. It is Awesome. They advertise no bumpsteer and no turning radius loss. I said it before and will say it again. Unisteer was by far the best company to deal with during my resto. Always talked to a live person and any issues I had they fixed no hassle.

[BarnStang]

I thought the unisteer rack DID also suffer from a loss of turning radius...I looked around the site but could not find any reference to turning radius for the 66 mustang kit. We are getting ready to order one of these racks for a customer's car. Would be great to confirm this.
Also, I spoke with one of the sales reps and was asking if there were any current promotional codes for the online store. He disclosed to me that the November special will be $250 off the 65-66 Mustang power rack. It's not yet posted on the website, but will be calling him back today to check.

[68EFIvert]

I am using a Steeroids kit and like it. There is some loss in turning radius but nothing that effects how I can drive the car. Parking takes a little more planning.

[69gmachine]

Unisteer offers 2 completely different racks, the power version is based on the GM J car rack as is used in the majority of kits. I don't know anything about the manual rack except that it is end steer like a typical late model Mustang rack, although much shorter. The J car rack does result in a slight increase in the turn radius, but the stock design is bad to begin with compared to a modern car. When the procession of Mustangs on the MMA tour had to make a U turn in the street, virtually every classic Mustang had to back up for a second attempt at the turn.

I'm working on the next generation suspension and steering design (my own) based around Wilwoods new forged 2" drop ProSpindle and aluminum hub with 2 piece rotors. I designed a bolt on rear steer (drop) arm for it that has a much shorter length specifically designed to work with the shorter throw of r&p steering. The steering arms are finished and the caliper brackets are being machined this week. I made 2 different designs; one using a 12.72 x 1.25" rotor with the C5 Corvette PBR caliper, and another using the Mustang Bullitt/Cobra PBR caliper with a 12.19 x 1.1" rotor (which by the way fits perfectly with brand new pads). They are designed to use '94-'04 17" wheels without spacers, and I've already test fit a 17x9" Mach 1 knock off. The smaller rotor/caliper will fit inside 16" wheels, but I don't know if the backspacing of vintage type wheels will allow them to fit inside the fender lip.

[Steve69]

Barnstang, Did you find out anymore on the Unisteer Discount? Im considering the same rack for my 69.

Thanks