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Driveline Vibration when I start moving. (T5)

This is a discussion on Driveline Vibration when I start moving. (T5) within the 5.0 Tech forums, part of the 5.0 Mustang category; In first or reverse when I get about half way off the clutch I get this ruff vibration I can ...

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-09, 07:08 PM
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Driveline Vibration when I start moving. (T5)

In first or reverse when I get about half way off the clutch I get this ruff vibration I can feel coming through the car. Anyone know what this could be?
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Old 10-28-09, 09:01 PM
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Worn out u-joints maybe?
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Old 10-28-09, 09:10 PM
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could be u-joints or tranny mount
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Old 10-28-09, 10:22 PM
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clutch chatter
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Old 10-28-09, 10:33 PM
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I'll take a look at the tranny mounts and U-Joints on Friday. I haven't felt anything like this since I got it a year ago and I Romp and Stomp on it not everyday but fairly often.
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Old 10-28-09, 10:34 PM
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Explain "Clutch chatter" if you wouldn't mind too.
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Old 10-28-09, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawbreaker5.0 View Post
clutch chatter
+1
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Old 10-29-09, 12:20 AM
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Clutch has been solid for well over 30K miles. And don't slip shift, power shift, grind, or shift hard at all. I ride her hard when shes in gear on the occasion but I baby the tranny as much as possible. Clutch is FRPP King Cobra clutch btw.
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Old 10-29-09, 09:08 AM
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It sounds like clutch chatter.
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Old 10-29-09, 01:15 PM
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Mind explaining "Clutch Chatter" ...
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Old 10-29-09, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DARCA View Post
Mind explaining "Clutch Chatter" ...
all i know is that it chatters going into first and reverse. the whole car shakes. i had a good website that explains causes of chatter, like oil on the clutch, wrong pinion angle, u joints. . .etc.
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Old 10-29-09, 05:51 PM
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Clutch chatter is basically the clutch skipping across the flywheel when you slip the clutch. There are a bunch of different factors that cause it, and any clutch can do it.

Basically just google search clutch chatter and you'll find more info.

This is clutch chatter right here
YouTube - Clutch Chatter
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Old 10-29-09, 05:56 PM
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In that video there was a lot of noise I noticed when it happened. Whats happening in mine is slight and more of a grinding (It feels a lot like putting sand between ur hands and rubbing them together if that makes any sense.) vibration. Its quite and not as noticeable as what was happening in the video. It only happens in 1st and reverse and it fads really quickly.

Last edited by DARCA; 10-29-09 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 10-29-09, 06:03 PM
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Its kool, Thanks for all the input though!
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Old 10-29-09, 07:21 PM
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You might look at your brakes for a seized caliper, or sticking drum. I know Im way off base from the others, but first and reverse are the only gears where you are moving the car from a stop, and your brakes could be grinding a bit... It may not be noticeable once the car is moving due to road noise, etc.

Last edited by 95BlueStallion; 10-29-09 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 10-29-09, 07:28 PM
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Awesome! Thanks for that, cause my car is gunna be on a lift tomorow as is so I'll just pop the wheels off an check out the brakes!
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Old 10-29-09, 11:00 PM
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my 4 banger with a t5 did simaliar to this i thought it was the trans? nope! clutch? nope again! then i replaced the driveshaft with an alum one. problem fixed! then i noticed while the drive shaft was out of the car the front u joints were sooooo soooooo shot i was like how the hell did it even stay together!peace








john
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Old 10-29-09, 11:39 PM
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Haha I was actually seriously about to order an aluminum drive shaft. Haha.
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Old 10-30-09, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOKEDYA View Post
my 4 banger with a t5 did simaliar to this i thought it was the trans? nope! clutch? nope again! then i replaced the driveshaft with an alum one. problem fixed! then i noticed while the drive shaft was out of the car the front u joints were sooooo soooooo shot i was like how the hell did it even stay together!peace








john

when you say shot. how bad were they? the only way i know how to check u joints is by rotating them and if they feel rough or choppy as you turn then they're bad. is there another way to check them that i don't know of?
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Old 10-30-09, 01:35 AM
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A U joint shouldn't be able to move at all when it is in the car.
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Old 10-30-09, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ID89GT View Post
A U joint shouldn't be able to move at all when it is in the car.
exactly! i was always told to take the drive shaft (while in the car)and see if you can move it up or down if so there usually bad.Lawbreaker5.0 mine were so bad that when i removed the drive shaft there was no rubber in the ujoint and there was like 3/16 - 1/4 gap in the joint! some might not beleive me about this and i knew i shoulda saved a pic!peace






john
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Old 10-30-09, 10:40 AM
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There are at least 2 types of U-joint failure, one of them often being the cause of the other. It helps to understand how a U-joint works and what it does.
A U-joint has 4 roller bearings that allow 2 straight shafts to turn/flex while the shafts are not in a straight line with each other. It also keeps the shafts in a proper off angle alignment to each other.
1-One failure (sometimes only subtly and gradually noticeable) is caused by the roller bearings becoming dry (from lack of lube) and/or rusted, causing them to bind and not allow smooth movement/flexing..
A-This causes the 2 shafts to force the movements of the binding bearings, creating a sometimes slight or dramatic vibration that is not at all good for the output bearings of the transmission or the the input shaft bearings of the differential, depending on which U-joint is failing. The rollers in the bearings will eventually crumble/grind themselves into dust, or worse.
B-This is often the beginning of the cause of a second type of failure:
2-Worn/ground up/missing rollers inside the bearings causing the U-joint to become loose and not keep the alignment of the 2 shafts correct creating an off balance/off true vibration.
A-This is also very bad for your transmission and/or rear end. As they continue to wear it can lead to many, many problems including the earlier mentioned bearing stress, broken yokes, dropped driveshaft, etc, etc.

U-joints are some of the most important, yet most overlooked/neglected parts of your driveline and can cause a lot of unseen damage when not kept in good working order. When your driveshaft is out of the car, hold the output shaft/yoke (the part that slips in and out of the transmission) and hold the driveshaft at an angle to it and slowly spin the shaft to notice the mechanics of how it works. This will help you understand why the U-joints are so important and why driveline angles are so critical. The more dramatic the angle, the less smoothly the workings of the U-joint.
Sorry for the long post, I just thought it was important and I hope someone with more knowledge can elaborate on/correct anything I've stated.
HTH
Gene
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-09, 04:34 PM
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Ok, This is a good excuse to buy an aluminum drive shaft and some new U-Joints!
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Old 10-30-09, 06:37 PM
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if your not making serious power go get a 1997 2WD areostar van drive shaft!IT'S GOTTA BE A 96/97 AND IT CAN NOT BE A 4WD ONE! Thats what i put in my 4 banger it was $20 from u pull it junk yard.You will need to change the rear u joint $15 for the best one napa had! The only down fall is the areostars alum drive shafts arent as big in dia as a FRPP one or an aftermaket.But like i said if your not makeing tons of power it will be fine!Looking at your mods in your sig you will be ok with this drive shaft.peace








john

Last edited by SMOKEDYA; 10-30-09 at 06:38 PM.
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