[DaBlackStallion]

Hey Guys

I just started throwing a few codes and want to do some data logging on my gt i have an old xcal2 that ive had for a few years but never really used it.

Dose any one know the required files to do it.

my codes are p1151 and p1131. im sure its the o2 sensors, i just replaced the iac and tps and cleaned the maf this weekend im going to take off and clean the tb stuff.

any ideas

thanks

[patman0911]

It'd be a bit of a coincidence for them to both fail and start throwing codes at the same time unless there was some traumatic O2 sensor killing event that happened recently. You may want to poke around for a vacuum leak or anything else that might throw off the A/F ratios before you spend money on new O2 sensors.

[Night Shifter]

you're correct, its o2 related...weird that it would say both of your front o2's went bad at the same time like patman said....id check for a vacuum leak somewhere as well..

but, you might want to just go ahead and buy new ones anyway just incase they are actually getting ready do die on you....theyre only like $60 i think...or cheaper... i cant remember at the moment

[4tun8]

Drivability issues with the front o2 sensors or no? The fronts actually do something unlike the rears.....how is the car behaving?

[wmburns]

+2 with Patman0911 on this one. Long shot for both O2’s to fail/wear out at the same time. Pinpoint test H40 indicates this is most likely a vacuum leak.

>>H40 pinpoint test
H40 DTCs P1131, P1132, P1151 AND P1152: UPSTREAM HO2S NOT SWITCHING. DTCs P1130 and P1150: FUEL SYSTEM NOT SWITCHING AT FUEL TRIM (RICH OR LEAN)
Note: It is necessary to address all Continuous Memory Ignition and Misfire DTCs, if received during Continuous Memory testing, before addressing any KOER HO2S DTCs.
DTC/HO2S Reference List:
 HO2S-11 = DTCs P1131, P1132 and P1130
 HO2S-21 = DTCs P1151, P1152 and P1150
• Check intake air system for leaks, obstructions and damage.
• Check air cleaner element, air cleaner housing for blockage.
• Verify integrity of the PCV system.
• Check for vacuum leaks.

[DaBlackStallion]

Originally Posted by 4tun8

Drivability issues with the front o2 sensors or no? The fronts actually do something unlike the rears.....how is the car behaving?

For some reason recently it has not been doing the normal regular in motion idle at about 1000-1100 rpms then dropping to about 750 800 when completely stopped. Recently its been running like straight crap when idling. Now when coming to a stop it has been going up to idle at about 2000 rpms while slowing then dropping down to about 800rpms and when stopped idles normal but running a little ruff.

But while driving no noticeable change in power. Just eats more fuel.

[wmburns]

Monitor Long term fuel trim. Most likely will find it goes from Positive/negative values when going from idle to load. The reason is that at idle, the % of unmetered air tends to be greater.

The elevated idle RPM's could be from the extra unmetered air entering the intake manifold. There will be a delay as the IAC adjusts the idle to compensate.

Check the PCV system, PCV breather lines, valve covers, IAC bypass lines, in short, any place air can enter. If unable to locate visually, consider a vac leak detector.

Here is an example from Amazon.

Amazon.com: Vacuum Leak Detector: Automotive

[ceracer33]

swap the rear o2's to the front and see what happens. they are the same part, but the rears do not affect driving at all. if it straightens out, u need new o2 sensors. if it doesnt, u probably have a vacuum leak.

[wmburns]

Here is my take on why it may not be the best use of time/effort/money to swap the rear and front O2 sensors.

While the front/rear O2 sensors are similar, they do have different part numbers. The most notable difference is with the length of the pig tails. So swapping could cause fitment issues.

Next, if the front O2 sensor has more than 100k miles, it should be replaced outright. As O2 sensors age, their response time slows. This causes the PCM to not a quickly adjust for changing conditions. Increased fuel consumption can result. IMO, if a O2 problem is suspected and your car has more than 100k, save yourself some time and hassle and replace the front O2 sensors. Short of the MAF, the O2 sensors are one of the most vital sensors for a well running engine.

OK….. If the purposes of the swap is to save money, then IMO the first action in this case should be to look for a vacuum leak. Looking is free. If a vacuum leak is found, it will have to be repaired anyway.

Maybe my hands are too big or my arms are too short or not having a lift, I personally find it very difficult to get to the front O2 sensor connector. For that reason, I would not swap O2 sensors for diagnostic purposes (I would replace). It’s just too much work for a marginal return (again IMO).

[patman0911]

Aren't the connectors physically different too? Or are they just different colors - it's been a while since I've been up under there.

[wmburns]

Originally Posted by patman0911

Aren't the connectors physically different too? Or are they just different colors - it's been a while since I've been up under there.

From the factory the connectors are DIFFERENT. However, the after market Bosh connectors do not have the extra tab that prevents interchange.

In the case of factory O2's, the tab could be easily removed.

[DaBlackStallion]

Well im not going to clean the tb because there is some kind of solvent on it. but i think it may be a vac leak. Has any one ever used te propain detector? i cant find any vids about it online only the smoke.