5 lug / suspension swap progress
- Thread starter Snikt89GT
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onefstsnake
New Member
you should be able to JB Weld a nut on there and get it out.
Or you could slot the top and get it out but that could get shavings into the caliper.
Everything else looks great.
Or you could slot the top and get it out but that could get shavings into the caliper.
Everything else looks great.
GSP393
New Member
Looks good, nice wheels too. I'll be collecting stuff to do my 5 lug swap, I need some 94-95 spindles and I want some wheels that only come in 18x9.
Looks like it just really comes together with the wheels on. I'm pretty happy about the look. I'm glad I decided to paint the rotors. They would look fine now, but when they rusted it would show through big time with these wheels.
Only a couple minor things left to do before being finished. Have to wait for the new banjo bolts to arrive though.
Only a couple minor things left to do before being finished. Have to wait for the new banjo bolts to arrive though.
90
Active Member
I think it was around 100-105$ each for the 245s and 90-95 for the 235s from tirerack
I'm waiting for a $3200 check to show up in the next couple of weeks. I'm planning on Steeda stage 1 and 2 suspension kits, Ford Racing 5-lug conversion kit, and 10th anniversary Cobra 17x9 wheels with new tires. I'm smiling from ear to ear watching your car take on its tranformation. 
Red calipers FTW! I love the way they look on mine.
Good call on painting the inner rotor, btw. I have to do that on mine. The rust really comes through the wheel. heh.
Good call on painting the inner rotor, btw. I have to do that on mine. The rust really comes through the wheel. heh.
It does look good. What suspension setup do you have? How much is it dropped?
I think i'm going to put the car on the ground tonight so I can see how it looks and get the distance measurement I need to jack up the arms to normal ride height. Have to torque the lower control arm bolts at ride height and setup the tie rod spacers.
I have Steed Sport springs and Tokico Illumina struts. I didn't do a before measurement but it looke like it dropped about 1 inch. I need to order a set of lower control arms, I noticed the bushings are cracking.
Ok I put the car on the ground and I just took some confusing measurements. It seems like the drivers side is sitting higher than passenger.
Keep in mind this is with a tape measure, so not 100% accurate.
Drivers --
Ground to fender lip (straight up through center cap on front wheel) - 27 1/2in
Bottom of center cap to fender lip - 16 3/4in
Ground to bottom of fog light hole - 11 1/2in
Passenger --
Ground to fender lip (straight up through center cap on front wheel) - 27in
Bottom of center cap to fender lip - 16 3/8in
Ground to bottom of fog light hole - 11 1/2in
Why would this happen? This is the first time the car is on the ground with the new springs. The CC plates aren't setup at all though, could this be due to the alignment being way off?
Keep in mind this is with a tape measure, so not 100% accurate.
Drivers --
Ground to fender lip (straight up through center cap on front wheel) - 27 1/2in
Bottom of center cap to fender lip - 16 3/4in
Ground to bottom of fog light hole - 11 1/2in
Passenger --
Ground to fender lip (straight up through center cap on front wheel) - 27in
Bottom of center cap to fender lip - 16 3/8in
Ground to bottom of fog light hole - 11 1/2in
Why would this happen? This is the first time the car is on the ground with the new springs. The CC plates aren't setup at all though, could this be due to the alignment being way off?
I would not worry about measurement until you drive the car for a bit and let eveything take a set. Plus due to the build quality of these cars, I doubt they will ever be exactially the same.
Before you tighten the A arm bolts, I would roll the car back and forth and bounce it a few times.
Ok, so when the car is on jack stands and you try to jack up on the a-arm it just picks the car up. So how are you supposed to get the arms at ride height to torque them?
What I like to do is drive the front up on ramps and level the rear with jackstands under the axle. Then get under there and torque everything up.
I don't have any ramps, I guess i'll try to come up with something.
I looked at the springs some more and it looks like the driver one is a little more forward down in the lower perch than the passenger one. Do you think this will even out while driving and under load?
From my experience of installing various aftermarket suspensions on different car makes, the measurements will always be off at first. You need to drive the car for a few miles on freeway, street, and some turns. I would say about 50 miles total. Then go back and measure. Everything should be seated by then. Seeing how the suspension you installed are not adjustable coilovers, you won't be able to adjust ride height for fine tuning. All you can do is check to see if the springs are seated correctly on their perches. If everything else is nice and tight, that might be the way the car stays. One more thing, check that all air pressures on the tires are matching. You never know, a few more pounds of air could throw your measurements off.
