Tri-state cylinder heads

W

white88stang

New Member
Jun 29, 2005
10
0
1
Millersport, Ohio
#1
Anyone running the tri-state Floo-Tech cylinder heads? They seem to be reasonably priced, but I didn't know what you got for the money. I am looking for around 350HP with these. What do you think? Would they be as good as the GT40X or AFR heads?:shrug:

∑ 1.94" intake, 1.54"exhaust stainless swirl polished valves
∑ 180cc intake runners
∑ 62cc exhaust runners
∑ 58cc chambers
∑ Hi Performance springs (.550 lift hyd roller)
∑ PC seals
∑ Hardened locks and retainers
∑ High temp exhaust seats
∑ Manganese bronze intake guides phosphor bronze exhaust guides
∑ 5 angle valve job
 

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#2
Floo Tek

I have the same question. I am looking for similar HP numbers. I have a rebuilt stock 302 short block in the garage and am considering buying a set. The engine will go in my 68 Fastback.

I'm supposed to talk to Jim at Tristate tomorrow. I'll post what I find out.
 
#3
The valve springs suck on them heads that is the only thing wrong with them. Me and i buddy of mine have ran two sets now. One set on a stock bottom end 302 and the other set on his 347. They make very good power. With a stock bottom end your not going to see 350hp, that goes for and heads. We don't have any dyno numbers from the two motors. You will be happy with them if you get a set. But i would either buy the upgraded springs from them or have a different set put on.

What cam are you going to run?
 
#4
now 350 can be done with the rite cam and intake set up i had there smaller heads on a stock 302 200plus thousand miles on it with the 202 /160 valves on it and with a 373 and holley systemax intake and a 75 shot the car went 8.0 in the eight mile with stock injectors and meter 5spd car , i have there bigger heads on my 347 and i love them for the price spend the extra 100 dollars and get the spring up grade and make sure u have your cam specs when u order those heads so you know what kind of seat pressure your going to need for the springs if you get them i belive you will like them
 
#7
It is true that performance heads will not cause you to fail smog. You should see a slight reduction in CO and hydrocarbons, with a slight increase in NOX because your engine is actually running more efficiently.
 
#8
88mouse - thanks for the info. I don't know what cam I am going to use. I was thinking an E303, but I have been reading alot about CC custom grinds and the May 2005, 5.0 Mustang mag did an article on intakes and used a Comp Cams 258 Extreme Energy cam with really good results.

You say that I will not see 350HP with a stock bottom end, and that is the part where I start getting conflicting opinions. The same magazine tested box stock AFR 165's, 70mm TB, headers, and GT40 intake on a stock 302 and got 363HP at 5600 RPM and 391 lb-ft of torque at 3900 RPM with a tune on the dyno. That is exactly what I am looking for in my street car. I just don't want to spend $1400 on AFR heads when I could get the same results from the $800 ones I mentioned above.

I am new to modifying 5.0L EFI motors, so I was looking for some other first hand results on what to install. Right now I have 3.73 gears and an 89 A9P computer with 75mm PMAF, explorer upper intake and GT40 lower intake. The dyno guys I talked to in Columbus, Ohio recommended 30# injectors. I need to decide on a TB, but the 70mm sounds like a good size, (I have also been kicking around a 75mm one.) I will also need headers and 2-1/2" exhaust with X-pipe.

What is a realistic HP number with a dyno tuned chip?
 
#10
Looks like the only differents is that those^ heads are pedestal mounted. And have a little bit different intake runner. The link that i posted is what ls1beater has ran on his two motors that i helped him with.

I was asking around today boy the 350hp most everone tells me that its can be done. But I have yet to see one most that i have seen on a stock bottom end is 330.

Look into the TFS 1 cam with the tri state heads it made very good power on ls1beaters first motor.
 
#12
I'm in Ohio (around Columbus) and we don't have emissions checks, just trying to look to the future if it would happen. I don't want to have to pull the motor just pass it. I don't mind putting some bolt on stuff back on. Maybe I am worrying about it a little too much.

Thanks for the help on the heads. I am glad someone has used them with good results. It just make me nervous using no-name heads. I also know that flow number aren't the entire story, chamber design also play a big part in how much power the heads can make.

The guys at Tri-state tell me these heads compare with the GT-40X heads??? The flow numbers show the tri-state heads to be a little weaker on the mid lift exhaust flows.
 
#13
Most of the state are going to the type of emissions like we have here in nc. So as long as you know some body that will let you slide you won't have to worry about the tail pipe test. All we have to do here is open the hood and make sure everything is under there on 95 back cars.
 
#14
Ohio Emissions

white88stang said:
I'm in Ohio (around Columbus) and we don't have emissions checks, just trying to look to the future if it would happen. I don't want to have to pull the motor just pass it. I don't mind putting some bolt on stuff back on. Maybe I am worrying about it a little too much.

Thanks for the help on the heads. I am glad someone has used them with good results. It just make me nervous using no-name heads. I also know that flow number aren't the entire story, chamber design also play a big part in how much power the heads can make.

The guys at Tri-state tell me these heads compare with the GT-40X heads??? The flow numbers show the tri-state heads to be a little weaker on the mid lift exhaust flows.
Click to expand...

I don't see emissions coming back in Ohio. They discontinued it around 2 years ago down here in Cincinnati and mothballed all of the E-Check stations.
 
#15
88mouse said:
All we have to do here is open the hood and make sure everything is under there on 95 back cars.
Click to expand...

You might want to avoid the Exxon station on Memorial Drive in Greenville then. They went over my Stang with a fine tooth comb including lifting it and giving me a hard time because I only had 2 cats instead of 4. :notnice:

My new inspection place is a lot more liberal. Cats not required. :nice:
 
#16
Maryland Stang said:
You might want to avoid the Exxon station on Memorial Drive in Greenville then. They went over my Stang with a fine tooth comb including lifting it and giving me a hard time because I only had 2 cats instead of 4. :notnice:

My new inspection place is a lot more liberal. Cats not required. :nice:
Click to expand...

Don't really know if I should put this out there. But i am a NC state inspector.I love being able to inspect my on car.:nice:
 
#17
when buying heads ! its the same as getting head!! you get what you pay for ! :rlaugh: in other words! why not just buy the afr's or edlebrocks! something tested and proved!! id rather spend a little bit more cash and get something I'm happy with then get some junk your not going to be happy with when your done with it! i know sometimes its hard to come up with the cash for these projects! so if you don't have it all right now save up some more and buy them when you have the cash! that's just my opinion!!! its your car and your money! but those are my thoughts!
 
#18
fastford91 - I usually completely agree with you. I have done just that on my other projects, but I am just trying to weigh $500 versus an additional 20HP or whatever the difference might be. That was the purpose of this post, to see if anyone had used them and then try to determine what the HP difference might be against the more expensive heads.

I am looking at a pair of used AFR 165's for $1K, but that is a crap shoot when dealing with used heads that have unknown mileage, and or care taken of them. I can get the new AFR 165's for $1380 and free shipping all day long, but is it worth it??????????
 
#19
I've heard good and bad about those heads. Really, the only good is the cost. The bad consist of bad springs, valves, excess flash in critical areas, subpar flow numbers etc.

From what I have read, the best way to approach those heads is to buy them bare and put all of your own hardware and machine work in them.

You should not expect them to perform nearly as well as the eddy's, tfs or afr's...atleast not in stock form.
 
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