New Edge(1999-2004) Mustang Owners with 20" + Wheels!

I'm looking to buy some wheels for my 2003 GT that I'm putting a Maximum Motorsports Max Grip Box Kit on that will lower it 1 1/2" - 2 inches. For the track I'm going to run 17" wheels with some BFG R1's but for street I'd like to run 20" + wheels. Can you post a pic of your ride with them on and some tire/wheel specs along with any suspension mods you've done like lowering the car?

Thanks 'Stang Brothers!

John

Ok let me put it this way:

You can have a Show car, you can have a Race car, but you can't have both in one.

Building a street/race suspension car then adding 20"s is asking for trouble, rubber-band size tires on a hard suspension car is going to destroy 20" rims.



or easiest wording possible, 20"s iz gay on a stang
 
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Mines in the shop getting a little fender bender fixed:nonono: but I just got my new wheels and they will be on when I get it back:D . Ill snap a few pics and post em for you. It will be about a week or two though. They are Ruff Racing 280's, 20X10 rear and 19X8.5 front. Got em on eBay through VQ Motoring. They have them in 3 finishes: chrome, titanium, and black. Heres the address:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RUFF-RACING-RIM-WHEELS20-280-Chrome-350z-G35-Tire_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ66486QQihZ011QQitemZ320163869369QQtcZphoto.

Wheels and tires were $1780+$150 shipping. I had 17x9 Steeda ultra lite chrome but 2 of them got damaged in my little accident so I decided to upgrade in the process. I figure they will fill out my wheel wells a lot better without having to lower it that way I don't have to worry about tearing up my front splitter on speed bumps and parking stops etc.

OBTW... Do what you want! After all it is your car and you have to drive it.:nice:
 
Ok let me put it this way:

You can have a Show car, you can have a Race car, but you can't have both in one.

that all depends on what you consider a "Show Car" and what you consider a "Race Car"

Nowadays you can have low 10, high 9 second cars and not have to ditch all the amenities that most cars at those levels have to. You can still run awesome times with full interior, system, etc.

Its more a matter of having the money to go both ways, most choose either or because they may not be able to do both to their expectation, or some do a little of each at a time, might do some performance one month, the next theyll throw some look good stuff on there, and get to their goal eventually.
 
he went with DD up front and rear, and the rears are not wide, thus why it looks so out of place. plus looks like hes running small tires on there. fronts should be tucked in or even with the fender, and the rears should be even or no more than 1/2" past the fender.

18" are as large as should be fit on any SN95 chassis. SN197's (05+)can get away with 20's because their overall wheel well diameter size. Foose runs nothing smaller than 20's but thankfully, as far as i know, nothing larger either.

anything bigger and it screams "Ghetto Fabulous" which is not what the mustang should be screaming.

DD? Daily Driver? Huh?

Rear wheels are 275/45/18. Same with the front. Wheels are 9.5" wide.

I installed some of the stuff from the MM Max Grip Box I have and F'ed up and forgot that the Wilwood Superlite 6 Big Brake kit won't fit the stock wheels I have in the car so my friend Rodger let me use the 18's he had in his car.

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Here's a picture with the 18's on after I installed the stuff on my car.

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I think that when you black out the center it makes the wheel look smaller. The rear looks fine width wise and with the stiffer spring rates tomustang is right. The 20's would be destroyed the first time you hit a pothole with the lower profile tires so I think I'll stick with 18's. 9.5's in the rear with a 275/40/18 and 8 or 8.5's 245/45/18 in front. Not sure if I'll go chrome, brushed or blacked out. What do you think?

John
 

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9.5's in the rear with a 275/40/18 and 8 or 8.5's 245/45/18 in front. Not sure if I'll go chrome, brushed or blacked out. What do you think?

Those aspect ratios are much too tall. Depending on the brand/drop lowering spring you're using, a 45 on the front and a 40 on the rear will tend to scrub the wheel well frequently.

On my way to work, there's a certain right hand "sweeper" turn that, at 70mph, will always scrub my driver's side rear wheel well. Keep in mind that I have a 30 series tire on the rear too, although I'm running H&R SS springs.
 
Those aspect ratios are much too tall. Depending on the brand/drop lowering spring you're using, a 45 on the front and a 40 on the rear will tend to scrub the wheel well frequently.

On my way to work, there's a certain right hand "sweeper" turn that, at 70mph, will always scrub my driver's side rear wheel well. Keep in mind that I have a 30 series tire on the rear too, although I'm running H&R SS springs.

Any suggestions from the man in the know? LOL!:D

I'm going to run 18's but I want to fill the well. The 18's on the rear are fine and even under hard cornering don't rub so I think I may stick with those but I'd like a little less sidewall maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch less. For the fronts I'd like to pull the backspacing in a bit so that they tuck the fender and not go with such a wide tire for better turn in. With the widths that I listed what would be the best tire setup?

John
 
Any suggestions from the man in the know? LOL!:D

I'm going to run 18's but I want to fill the well. The 18's on the rear are fine and even under hard cornering don't rub so I think I may stick with those but I'd like a little less sidewall maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch less. For the fronts I'd like to pull the backspacing in a bit so that they tuck the fender and not go with such a wide tire for better turn in. With the widths that I listed what would be the best tire setup?

John

I'd personally go no larger than a 35 series, front and rear. I have a 35 on the front and a 30 on the rear, and I still scrape the driver's side, front and back, on hard right sweeper turns. If you're not into corner carving, then you may be "ok," but a 45 is surely too tall. The 40 might work, but the 45 should not even be considered.

What brand of spring are you using now? (that will make a difference in how much the wells are "filled")
 
I'd personally go no larger than a 35 series, front and rear. I have a 35 on the front and a 30 on the rear, and I still scrape the driver's side, front and back, on hard right sweeper turns. If you're not into corner carving, then you may be "ok," but a 45 is surely too tall. The 40 might work, but the 45 should not even be considered.

What brand of spring are you using now? (that will make a difference in how much the wells are "filled")

Hypercoils. 450 in front and 350 in back. Mind you, I still have an inch adjustment down on the LCA pick up points on the K-Member and the coilovers are adjustable so I can lower the car that way too although right now the bumpsteer feels just right so I'll probably stay with the Front LCA height and coilover height I'm at!

John
 
I'd personally go no larger than a 35 series, front and rear. I have a 35 on the front and a 30 on the rear, and I still scrape the driver's side, front and back, on hard right sweeper turns. If you're not into corner carving, then you may be "ok," but a 45 is surely too tall. The 40 might work, but the 45 should not even be considered.


Well that really is up to the width of the tire.
You can't just generalize sidewall size like that.
 
OK! Now that the dust has settled.....:rlaugh:

The plan is 18's! Any suggestions for some light, cheap, wheels that will clear big brake calipers? Traditional 5 spokes kind of like the cobra R's!

The plan for the tires is BFG KDW's rear 275/40/18. The ones I have on now are 275/45/18 and work well and don't rub but they look a little tall in the sidewall so I think 40 series will work. If not then 35. Front 245/45/18. The ones on there now are a bit wide and stick out of the fenderwll about a 3/4 to an inch. I want to tuck them so I think the 245's should work out nicely! Thoughts?

John