Updated TCP G-Bar triangulated 4-link...

reenmachine

reenmachine

Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Jun 27, 2004
1,256
2
38
San Diego, CA
#1
I just received my new TCP catalog and I've got to say that the new updated G-bar triangulated 4-link looks pretty dern nice. I can do without the billet aluminum lower arms on the higher-end version, but they make a steel-armed version with pivot balls at the ends as well. This should go a heck of a long way towards reducing bind for those who are concerned about it, which I really don't think you need to be unless you're trying to squeeze every last tenth out of your car at the track. Honestly, for a street car I'd probably save the $ and go with the polyurethane bushing lower arms. $1739 for the complete kit is starting to be awfullly attractive.

My question is, has anyone managed to get a rear-exit exhaust up and over this thing?

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#3
mustangpt said:
I have installed it, I'm starting on exhaust fab soon and dont see anyway to go but under the axle especially if the vehicle is lowered.
Click to expand...

Is that what you plan on doing?

Did you buy the housing from them, or weld the tabs on your own? Were there clear directions on how to do this and proper placement?

Also, which links did you choose?
 
#5
68GT500KR_Vert said:
I'm putting the exhaust under it. This guy runs a 3" exhaust. He runs a 4-link, and it takes up the same physical space. I running a Magnaflow 3" exhaust kit with the X-pipe.
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You know, that doesn't look bad at all -- in fact I kind of like it. It's very similar to how you run the exhaust under a Cobra IRS (see pic), and I always liked the way that looked. Don't know why I had an aversion to doing it this way with a solid axle. Less bends = better flow anyway.

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#6
i heard through the grapevine that TCP is planning on selling pre-bent tail pipes for the G-Bar kits. it can be done but i think it depends a lot on how low the car is, if it'a only a inch or maybe two below stock ride height it should work fine lower than that and i don't think there would be any way to make rear exit exhaust work unless you run it under the axle.

i should be ok when i do my cougar though since i have about 4-5" more room than a mustang would. this is the same system i've been posting everywhere for a few weeks now.

i plan on going with the base kit as well with the poly bushings and probably the link end sway bar and not the high dollar bar.

i had an idea for this system as well to make a 3 link/torque arm system from it by deleting the upper links and adding one of the TCP torque arms with the x-cage subframe kit and either a Fays2 or Evolution watt's link. i think it would work well, at least on the cougar, i'm not sure it would work as well on a stang though. i'll have to do some measuring once i get the cougar and start working on it and of course after i get the G-Bar system installed, i'd really like to see if it would work as a future upgrade but i'll be using the g-bar as is for quite a while though.
 
#7
Pete, TCP has a jig to setup the weld on brackets, don't know if it's in the catalog or not but it is on the website. you'll have to download the technical data sheet PDF at the top of the G-Bar page but it's in there.
 
#8
bnickel said:
i heard through the grapevine that TCP is planning on selling pre-bent tail pipes for the G-Bar kits.
Click to expand...

That would be perfect.

bnickel said:
i plan on going with the base kit as well with the poly bushings and probably the link end sway bar and not the high dollar bar.
Click to expand...

I think the poly bushings are the right choice for a street car. Less harsh ride, no adjustability to worry about, and you'll never notice the bind. I'd even start without the sway bar and wait to see if you felt you needed it after driving the car for a while.

bnickel said:
i had an idea for this system as well to make a 3 link/torque arm system from it by deleting the upper links and adding one of the TCP torque arms with the x-cage subframe kit and either a Fays2 or Evolution watt's link.
Click to expand...

And then you'd have the RRS three link kit.
 
#9
I will eventually have this kit as well. I like the high dollar sway bar option because it will leave more room behind the axle for my EFI pump and filter. I originally have interest in the middle kit but the more I think about it the more I am leaning towards the basic kit for the reason Pete said. There is very small benefits for my application with spherical joints, probably not even enough to tell the difference. There is someone on another forum that ran the exhaust over the axle but on the outside of the coil overs. It looks like it would work well.
 
#10
reenmachine said:
That would be perfect.



I think the poly bushings are the right choice for a street car. Less harsh ride, no adjustability to worry about, and you'll never notice the bind. I'd even start without the sway bar and wait to see if you felt you needed it after driving the car for a while.



And then you'd have the RRS three link kit.
Click to expand...



actually the torque arm on the RRS system is way too long, it's better now that they've changed the front pivot point to a sperical link instead of the poly bushing they had before but it's still long and doesn't have enough movement at the front to realy prevent bind, even with the new link. personally, i think it's a pretty poor design, it was a good idea but the execution was flawed.

a shorter torque arm would be better and would actually work more like a 3 link the way i described it. like i said though i'd have to do a lot of measuring to make sure the geometry would work right and to be honest i'd have to buy a chassis/suspension book to make sure all the calculations were right.

the lower links and the torque arm are fighting over just about everything. with the TCP torque link and their G-Bar the lower links and the torque link are very close to the same length so they won't be fighting over things like instant center and stuff. i've also thought about making more a true 3 link with it as well, just add the third link to the top of the diff and connect it where the connect the upper links on the G-Bar, it would be a short 3rd link but would in reality be very close to what the 05 mustangs have, not that is optimimum by any means but for a purely street car it's not a bad compromise.
 
#11
I welded the tabs on my own housing. I think this is the best way to go if your going to be lowering. this way you can set axle at ride height and get proper pinion angle with the links in a neutral location. i also used the poly bushing version.
 
#15
fastcoupe68 said:
Updated TCP G-Bar triangulated 4-link. Opinions on using this setup in a drag vehicle, Pros and cons??? Anyone feel free to chime in on this
Click to expand...



it would work well for drag racing especially on a street/strip car, if it's adedicated drag car you might be better off with a parallel 4 link, don't get a street rod rod type 4-bar though, they don't have the adjustments you'll need to get the car launching right.
 
#16
bnickel said:
it would work well for drag racing especially on a street/strip car, if it's adedicated drag car you might be better off with a parallel 4 link, don't get a street rod rod type 4-bar though, they don't have the adjustments you'll need to get the car launching right.
Click to expand...

On a street strip car, how would this 4 link compare to a setup like this:

Maier 165 leafsprings
Strange adjustable shocks
Caltracs or Comp engineering slide-a-links
New bushings, shackles, etc
 
#20
I know that a dedicated 4 link is far superior to all ( In a Drag situation). There adjustability is endless. but there are alot of stock suspensioned fox bodied mustangs going very fast on there stock styled setups, just wanted opinions on the tcp setup, not what was better or worse then the tcp set up. Any opinions on power levels with the tcp 4 link. Hey Reenmachine, opinions? on all of this
 
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