Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I droped my 67 off over there today. Let me first just say one thing. I am an idiot. I forgot to bring my digital camera with me. I'll bring it when I got to pick the car up and hopefully they will let me snaps some pics of the place for you guys.
Now that being said, I got to take a tour of the place and let me tell you guys that they have a very clean and organized shop. They make all of the suspension parts right there with quality materials. They also have an impressive show room.
I talked with Danny about some different ideas concerning the suspension kit like the spring perch as well as the Shelby/Arning drop and coil-over setups. I like the way that Danny thinks. He builds for reliability and drivability.
As far as the upper arm goes, it is geometrically the same as a stock A-arm except it is 1/4" shorter. This difference can be made up with shims. I can't remember if he said the shims are included in the kit or not. The reason for shortening the arm is because of tire clearance issues with the quarter pannel. Puting the 1/4" shim in returns the arm to factory positioning. The ball joint in the upper arm is a stock Mustang 4 bolt ball joint and can be replaced if it wears out with a standard ball joint. With regaurds to a 1 1/4" or more arm relocation, he said the arm should have enough travel in it to not bind the ball joint and that there most likely wouldn't be a need to use some sort of negative wedge kit to correct the ball joint angle. The A-arm assembly is constructed so that the pivot shafts can't unscrew themselvs. Danny said that this is a problem with some of the tubular A-arms that some companies make.
The plate that they mount for the lower arm helps to tie the front end together and reinforces the front core support. He told me they will also include smaller pieces of metal which will go on the top side of the core support to spread the load more evenly around the areas where the bolts go through.
One thing about this kit some people may not like is that it is neccesary to remove the housing/bracket that the strut rod is connected to. I'm not sure if everyone realizes this so I just wanted to say that if this isn't an area you are willing to modify then this kit isn't for you.
Danny showed me the mystery bushing material that he was talking about. It really does seem like some type of plastic. They buy it in raw stock form and have the bushings they want machined out of a solid piece of material. It appears to be a fairly strong material.
Interesting side note, I talked to him about an integral power steering box for our
Mustangs and he said that they have plans to make one. He said they would like to have it done by the time the next SEMA rolls around but nothing is for sure. They have a lot going on and don't know when they will be ready to start working on this.
I give these guys a big double thumbs up.
Now that being said, I got to take a tour of the place and let me tell you guys that they have a very clean and organized shop. They make all of the suspension parts right there with quality materials. They also have an impressive show room.
I talked with Danny about some different ideas concerning the suspension kit like the spring perch as well as the Shelby/Arning drop and coil-over setups. I like the way that Danny thinks. He builds for reliability and drivability.
As far as the upper arm goes, it is geometrically the same as a stock A-arm except it is 1/4" shorter. This difference can be made up with shims. I can't remember if he said the shims are included in the kit or not. The reason for shortening the arm is because of tire clearance issues with the quarter pannel. Puting the 1/4" shim in returns the arm to factory positioning. The ball joint in the upper arm is a stock Mustang 4 bolt ball joint and can be replaced if it wears out with a standard ball joint. With regaurds to a 1 1/4" or more arm relocation, he said the arm should have enough travel in it to not bind the ball joint and that there most likely wouldn't be a need to use some sort of negative wedge kit to correct the ball joint angle. The A-arm assembly is constructed so that the pivot shafts can't unscrew themselvs. Danny said that this is a problem with some of the tubular A-arms that some companies make.
The plate that they mount for the lower arm helps to tie the front end together and reinforces the front core support. He told me they will also include smaller pieces of metal which will go on the top side of the core support to spread the load more evenly around the areas where the bolts go through.
One thing about this kit some people may not like is that it is neccesary to remove the housing/bracket that the strut rod is connected to. I'm not sure if everyone realizes this so I just wanted to say that if this isn't an area you are willing to modify then this kit isn't for you.
Danny showed me the mystery bushing material that he was talking about. It really does seem like some type of plastic. They buy it in raw stock form and have the bushings they want machined out of a solid piece of material. It appears to be a fairly strong material.
Interesting side note, I talked to him about an integral power steering box for our
Mustangs and he said that they have plans to make one. He said they would like to have it done by the time the next SEMA rolls around but nothing is for sure. They have a lot going on and don't know when they will be ready to start working on this.
I give these guys a big double thumbs up.