66 Mustang Front Suspension Rebuild

[joedokes28]

I have a 66 that is in need of a complete front suspension rebuild. The car will mainly be used for cruising, but I want it to handle well and don't mind spending a bit extra for quality parts that will make a difference. The rear already has all new shackles, bushings, and 5 leaf mid eye springs. Here's what I have come up with so far and from what I have read here, seems to be proven. Please let me know what you think and where I can improve. The car is sitting on 17x8 wheels with 4.75" backspace and 235/45/17" tires.

The List:

Opentracker Street Upper arms
OpentrackerStreet Lower arms
Opentracker Roller spring perches
Steering kit with roller idler arm
Opentracker Adjustable (Roller) strut rods
KYB Front and Rear shocks
1 1/8" front sway bar kit
3/4" rear sway bar kit

Thanks in advance.

 

[enferno]

sounds like you have it covered, but don't forget about disc brakes! or new front springs!

 

[rusty428cj]

Sounds like a good plan. I have all the Opentracker front suspension including strut rods for my 1967 Fairlane and they are all high quality parts that you will be glad you bought.

 

[joedokes28]

I forgot to mention that I already have 620 springs. Disc brakes are definitely in the works as well.

 

[valley82]

Same setup I have including the tire size, the only thing I did differently was the TCP manual r&p.
Open Tracker components are very nice quality.
I'm getting very close to driving!!!

 

[dodgestang]

You do not need (or want) the rear sway bar.
I would use a more forgiving shock. When I switched from the KYB on the front of my 65 to the IAS shocks my performance improved AND the ride softened up a bit.

Also make sure you lower the a arms

 

[12sec67]

I have the 5 leaf mid eyes and noticed a difference right off the bat in handling with the rear sway bar.

 

[dodgestang]

I have the 5 leaf mid eyes and noticed a difference right off the bat in handling with the rear sway bar.

Oh I'm sure you noticed a difference

In my various mustangs the rear bar always induced too much oversteer IMO and the car was much more predictable on exit ramps without the bar. YMMV.

 

[DKN]

Are you familiar with the CPP Mini-Sub frame? It will be the last arms you ever buy for the Mustang. It will eliminate the strut rod suspension and all of the problems associated with it.

http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/2006/NewFiles/NovaSubFrame.htm

Danny Nix

 

[Opentracker]

Are you familiar with the CPP Mini-Sub frame? It will be the last arms you ever buy for the Mustang. It will eliminate the strut rod suspension and all of the problems associated with it.

http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/2006/NewFiles/NovaSubFrame.htm

Danny Nix

That's not true at all, what problems does it fix? There is little gain from the cars point of view with that set up other than the bit of an arch the lower ball joint goes through with the stock strut rod. You have to look at it like this, the spindle doesn't care what it's bolted too, if it moves the right way the car will have more grip. That deal only changes the looks of what's going on. Got to cut the car up to do it too.

 

[DKN]

That's not true at all, what problems does it fix? There is little gain from the cars point of view with that set up other than the bit of an arch the lower ball joint goes through with the stock strut rod. You have to look at it like this, the spindle doesn't care what it's bolted too, if it moves the right way the car will have more grip. That deal only changes the looks of what's going on. Got to cut the car up to do it too.

The strut rod moves front to back and causes a wandering and constant correction on the steering wheel when going over bumps and cornering hard. (Any time the lower ball joint moves front to back the caster changes, caster is what makes a car track straight.) This will be fixed. The car will definately drive better. Why do people add the Export brace and so on? because of defelection and compliance. You can not fix that unless you reinfoce the chassis and elimiate the big gooyey bushings. Untill you have driven a car with the mini-subframe you probably will not believe the gain. The gain is there. It is dramatic.

I am not trying to pick a fight, but many people have complained about the way a Mustang "wanders" when driven hard, or while on a rough road. This kit will fix that. If you have never expierenced this then don't use the mini-subframe. If You have ever cought yourself making corections to the steering wheel in order to maintain a constant turn, or going straight on a rough road, then I believe the mini-sub frame kit would make the car drive alot better.

Danny Nix

 

[dodgestang]

The strut rod moves front to back and causes a wandering and constant correction on the steering wheel when going over bumps and cornering hard. (Any time the lower ball joint moves front to back the caster changes, caster is what makes a car track straight.) This will be fixed. The car will definitely drive better. Why do people add the Export brace and so on? because of deflection and compliance. You can not fix that unless you reinforce the chassis and eliminate the big gooey bushings. Until you have driven a car with the mini-subframe you probably will not believe the gain. The gain is there. It is dramatic.

I am not trying to pick a fight, but many people have complained about the way a Mustang "wanders" when driven hard, or while on a rough road. This kit will fix that. If you have never experienced this then don't use the mini-subframe. If You have ever caught yourself making corrections to the steering wheel in order to maintain a constant turn, or going straight on a rough road, then I believe the mini-sub frame kit would make the car drive alot better.

Danny Nix

I don't have any bushings in my strut rods, I have a heim joint.
Can't disagree about firming up the flexible chassis on the car....with sub frame connectors, export brace, and MC bar.

PS - please use spell check...all that red underlining when I hit quote hurts my eyes

 

[Opentracker]

The strut rod moves front to back and causes a wandering and constant correction on the steering wheel when going over bumps and cornering hard. (Any time the lower ball joint moves front to back the caster changes, caster is what makes a car track straight.) This will be fixed. The car will definately drive better. Why do people add the Export brace and so on? because of defelection and compliance. You can not fix that unless you reinfoce the chassis and elimiate the big gooyey bushings. Untill you have driven a car with the mini-subframe you probably will not believe the gain. The gain is there. It is dramatic.

I am not trying to pick a fight, but many people have complained about the way a Mustang "wanders" when driven hard, or while on a rough road. This kit will fix that. If you have never expierenced this then don't use the mini-subframe. If You have ever cought yourself making corections to the steering wheel in order to maintain a constant turn, or going straight on a rough road, then I believe the mini-sub frame kit would make the car drive alot better.

Danny Nix

A rod end strut rod and a roller lower arm will be smoother than that mini kit, cost a lot less and there's no cutting or welding. I would like to see some real world test results from the swap. Again, you have to know what the upper and lower ball joints are doing under joust and rebound and how much bind there is in the system. Getting rid of the strut rod isn't a big deal, getting rid of the binding is. That rubber spring perch isn't going to help things either.

 

[CraigMBA]

The rubber spring perch is a deal breaker on it's own.

John, your spring perches are a Godsend. Since 1986 I tried and tried to get rid of that vulcanized piece of trash that would last 20K or so before they disintregrated or worse.

I've got a fully rollerized or spherical bearinged front end today (including the pitman arm) so I think I'm good. But you started it!

 

[joedokes28]

So my next question is, how much difference is there between the opentracker rollerized arms vs the regular opentracker arms in a street application? I.e., is the performance increased enough to be noticeable enough to justify the cost on city streets?

 

[Opentracker]

So my next question is, how much difference is there between the opentracker rollerized arms vs the regular opentracker arms in a street application? I.e., is the performance increased enough to be noticeable enough to justify the cost on city streets?

There is a difference but no, it's not worth it IMO on a street car. I like selling parts but it is overkill and I try to steer people away from them. Some folks like overkill though from the amount of roller arms that I know of that are on the street. They do make the cars ride smoother but it's not as big of a change as going from a rubber spring perch to a roller one. Going from a rubber idler arm do a roller idler arm brings a lot to the car too. From what I have found, the four things that make the biggest change are the two roller parts (spring perches and idler arm) along with a larger front sway bar and a performace alignment. No matter what kind or how many parts you put on the car, it won't drive well if it's aligned to spec. or factory settings. With those four mods on a tight front end, the car will drive more like a newer car.


Check these out -

AMC roller perches

AMC Roller UCA Before

AMC Roller UCA After

AMC Roller LCA

I was asked by some AMC guys to come up with some roller parts, so I did. They look and work just like the Ford front end pieces.

 

[DKN]

A rod end strut rod and a roller lower arm will be smoother than that mini kit, cost a lot less and there's no cutting or welding. I would like to see some real world test results from the swap. Again, you have to know what the upper and lower ball joints are doing under joust and rebound and how much bind there is in the system. Getting rid of the strut rod isn't a big deal, getting rid of the binding is. That rubber spring perch isn't going to help things either.

I have driven both set ups. Have You?????
You only make the shock and spring pivot with less resistance, like a softer shock. Ther are alternatives to a ruber shock perch, but that will not make the car drive as good as a mini-sub frame kit. Instead of BASHING somthing you have not driven, go find out for youself. Many of our customers have the Mini-subfame kit along with the open tracker perches, yet everyone I have ever talked to said that the Mini-subframe kit made a dramitic improvement. Some cutomers even had the bearing conversions to get rid of the strut rods, and then put the mini-subframe on. Gues what the mini-subframe was thier favorite. Just try one before you knock it.

I did not come on hear and bash you parts. What qualification do you have to say the mini-subframe will not make a big improvment. Drive one and offer an informed opinion. I have never herd anyone say that it was not a huge improvement after they installed one.

You are admittedly steering people away from a product that you have never driven. Did I do somthing to make you angry???

I think everyone has the right to thier own opinion about what to buy, and what works best for them.

Danny Nix

 

[valley82]

WOW chick fight!!!!!!!

 

[enferno]

yeah no kidding.

might want to watch what you say, even if you think opentracker is wrong, considering his products and he's pretty damn well known for his knowledge and his objective opinions. might piss some people - possible customers - off if you bad mouth him too much

 

[2bav8]

The mini-subframe setup is at best, as good at a set of strut rods with heim joint and lower control arms with spherical bearings plus a lot more work and money.
There is definitely a better way...