Should have been my first 11second pass.

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I had the same exact problem on my 331.

I used the dipstick in the stock location on the block, block had girdle. Girdle deflected dipstick into the counterweights of the crank. Crank sheered off dipstick tip. Dispstick tip went into oil pump, oil pump seized. Seized pump twisted pump drive into drill bit.

I pulled the motor, luckily I didnt damage the rotating assembly. I shut the motor off as soon as I lost OP. Everything worked great for months until I melted a pistion...but that was a diff strory a long while ago.
 
I know the pain. It sux, no way around it. Just suck it up and get back to it, thats all you can do. That or get out of the game.

I just keep on learning. Even after 25 years of fooling with cars.

We just finished our first Chevy roller motor, before that we had always used flat tapped 2 piece rear main blocks. We built the motor as we would a std 350. Mild 9.5 Hyd cam etc etc. Little did I know that GM changed up the balance for the later blocks. couterbalanced flywheel and 0 imbalance balancer. And you must have the entire assembly balanced.

Didnt find out til we had a slight vibration in the motor....had to take the whole thing apart and balance the whole assembly. My dad is 70 years old and together we have 70+ years of auto building experience.
 
One of my friends sent his virgin block to the Oreilly's Machine shop to 306 it. Then things changed in his personal life. He told me last night if I paid for the machining he owes I can have the block and pick it up from the machine shop. So I may be back in business sooner than I expected. We shall see.
 
Ended up going a slightly different route. I bought a virgin block and mains off a buddy. It's headed to the machine shop tomorrow. They will have all the pieces so they can machine the block to the pistons, crank, and rods.