65-66 CUSTOM MADE FRONT COILOVER SETUP IN PROGRESS

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oh and the spring perch mounting tabs appear to be sufficiently reinforced on the underside so i don't see a problem there.

however, i did not notice the ball joint mounting flange until you pointed it out, that does look like it could use some work, it would be better if the tubes on the control arm were cut down the center and the mounting flange be welded into the slots, good catch there Ron.
 
Those little tabs are scary, considering they're holding up the weight of the car. Was there a reason they needed to be bent rather than a straight piece?

As for the rod ends, instead of explaining I'd suggest you read this.
Formula Student Germany: Pat's Column - Rod Ends in Bending

Those are ready made tabs from chassis works. They are 4140 chromoly steel and have reinforcement at the bottom(see bottom view pic below). They are not bended that's just the angle of the picture. If you look at another photo of the suspension before the coilover you can see they are straight. The curve shape they have was to move the spring perch outward 1/2" in order to change the coil and shock angle.


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I wouldn't be so quick assuming everyone knows what you know. Apparently not "everyone else" does when stuff like this keeps showing up. Old TCP yes, the new coilover mounts on the lower control arm with the force close to the balljoint, where it should be. No rod ends are in bending. Griggs and Ron Morris designs are the same. As for the old TCP design and similar ones, show me a car driven on the street and track regularly that have these suspension systems. So far I've only seen them in magazines, in-progress show-off threads, car shows, and manufacturer mock-ups. The link I provided showed you a failure, and that's a sub-500lb car. Besides, I wasn't arguing either method, just showing some info. Or should he plead ignorance in the event that those threads pop out of the arms? He asked for opinions, I'm giving them.

For someone being so concerned about ground clearance due to potholes, real-world road conditions and the like I don't see why you'd approve of those dinky coil over tabs holding up the car. They should go all the way across and have a hole to clear the coilover like the ball joint plate, or at the least should be straight and stout. Look at the old TCP design, that section is as thick as the arms. The ball joint plate welded in shear is not something to be ignored, either.

No so quick guys. Here is the sketch for the UCA see the tabs and the 3/4" cuts in to the tubes? they reinforce that plate quite well. Why not all the way across the tube? Because the angle of the plate will not allow a cut to be in the center of the tube and it will not have any meat on the tube side to weld at the front. Also my design incorporates a diferent version of mounting instead of the tabs ( see photo below) but for my beta version it was simpler to use chasis works tabs with plenty reinforment in the botom before the final version was finnish. The final ones are build using 4140 square 1" stock with threaded holes for the lower mount.

UPCA-CUSTOM9c.gif
 
ok, that's cool. like i said i didn't even notice it seemed less strong that it should have been until he pointed it out but since you have obviously added those tabs into the tubing it's obvioulsy stronger than it originally seemed. thanks for clarifying :nice:
 
ok, that's cool. like i said i didn't even notice it seemed less strong that it should have been until he pointed it out but since you have obviously added those tabs into the tubing it's obvioulsy stronger than it originally seemed. thanks for clarifying :nice:


One more thing. The final system will be chrome plate using a new process called "GREEN CHROME" it's actually and environmental friendly chrome process from Europe that actually seals the steel preventing rust from coming from the inside out thru the plating of the chrome, it's 1.5 times harder than normal chrome and achieves the "Blue/white effect in the finish.

Here is the sketch of the ball joint angle

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PARTS LIST FOR BOLT ON COILOVER 64-66

Below is a parts list for the coilover setup i just installed. This is just for the coilovers the UCA are not included and either is the shipping. Prices are from Autofab Race Cars, Summit and jegs are higher. This is a bolt-on application and springs are 550# suitable for a High performance street car with aweight around 1820 lbs in front axle. Check with QA1 for your particular setup. I will be posting later in the week the cost and parts list for the UCA and the cost and parts used for the LCA mods i performed in my car.

10GBF550 Coil-Over Spring, 550 lbs./in. Rate, 10 in. Length, 2.5 in. Diameter, Powder Coated Chrome, Each $56.99

BAR350K T- Bar Conversion Mount Kit, 3/4 in. O.D., 3.5 in. Length, Hardware, Converts Loop Style to T-Bar, Each $15.99

BAR500K T- Bar Conversion Mount Kit, 3/4 in. O.D., 5.0 in. Length, Hardware, Converts Loop Style to T-Bar, Each $15.99

AFRC-T1310 Spanner wrenches set of 2 $17.99

QAP7888-109 Thrust Bearing set of 2 $22.00

DR4955P Coil-Over Shock, Aluminum, Clear, 14 in./11.125 in. Extended/Collapsed, Front/Rear, Eyelet/Eyelet, Each $144.99

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MAKE YOUR OWN RON MORRIS "ETI COILOVER" SETUP

Ok guy's, I just came back from Orlando, FL and a package was delivered by UPS and guess what? ,The Ron Morris ETI Coilover setup was sent to me even do i had canceled it. They gave me the $125.00 discount so the came out to be $750.00 + Ship. I will be returning it tomorrow cuz i have already built my own. But for those of you that want to build your Ron Morris replica here is the list of parts needed.

2 DR3955P (single adjustable) or DDR3955P (double adjustable)
Poly- 9 1/2 compressed’’- 12 5/8 extended 10 3/4’’--11 1/4 ride height

2 8CS500 8" extended 2-1/2” I.D. 500# COIL SPRINGS Chrome Plated

2 BAR500K t-bar

Plus you have to make the top plate and the bottom reinforment ring for both sides. I had a complete set build by a machine shop that i have no use for them now.

Sorry for not posting pic's but lost my camera and GPS in Orlando last saturday. I will borrow my son's camera before i ship them back to post some pic's.

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i agree a coilover mounted on the LCA is a better design but the C/O mounter on the UCA still allows a height adjustment. a UCA mounted spring has a wheel rate that is 50% of the spring rate and a LCA mounted spring has a wheel rate of 85% of the spring rate
 

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