Tweecer?

Charlie Allen

15 Year Member
Jan 7, 2008
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My 1995 GT with an AODE has been a labor of love for the past 8 months. I bought the car from the classifieds, drove it home and have been transforming it into a 1/4 mile drag car. The NHRA class I will running is stock. The motor must remain as Ford built it, stock heads, cam, stroke etc..........The trans is an AODE with a 9 1/2" Edge convertor with 5.14 gears and a 9x29.5 slick. The car must weight 3400lbs with the driver. It needs to run in the high 12 to low 13 second area. The car is ready to race minus a tune. I have purchased a Tweecer RT, downloaded the programs and read the 47 pages of instructions and manual tips. Before I install and tune, I would love to see several of your programs (tunes) for a similar combination. I would like to use a proven program for a very stock engine. Anyone willing to share???
Thanks in advance
Charlie in SoCal
 
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Hello Charlie

Since you drag ... I'll focus in on that kind of application :D

Here is a tip or two to get your noobie Tweecer self tuning feet wet :rlaugh:

I'd get a Wide Band so you can dial in your fuel ... right on the money :nice:

Spark ... I'd start with 36 total
and
Get it all in by 2500

Fuel ... I'd start with a ratio of 12.25 to 1.00

You can slowly lean it out
and
+ or - spark at the strip as needed

You can kill the tip in spark retard :banana:

In a nutshell ... You match the value in that scalar with what ever
amount of total spark you run in your main spark table :)

Good Luck Charlie :nice:
and
Welcome to the world of Self Tuning :spot:

Grady
 
You need to run 12s or 13s on the stock motor at 3400 lbs? I don't see how that's remotely possible with our motors. Do they let you run a blower on the stock motor maybe? If you aren't changing the major engine components, a tune won't net you much power anyway.
 
When he gets his fuel right ;)

I'll bet the biggest steak in Fort Worth, Texas :D

He runs the quickest ET in the range of 34 to 38 degrees total spark

For years and years ...........
My SBF's have made the best WOT power in that area :)

Grady
 
I'll give it a go next time I've got a stockish car on the dyno - in my experience with the stock iron heads (and as was the case last nite) power stops building around 28-30deg and beyond that detonation sets in. As you know every car is a bit different though so YMMV but that's why we dyno, to find the limit of each combo.

Wes
 
I'll give it a go next time I've got a stockish car on the dyno - in my experience with the stock iron heads (and as was the case last nite) power stops building around 28-30deg and beyond that detonation sets in. As you know every car is a bit different though so YMMV but that's why we dyno, to find the limit of each combo.

Wes

Yes Wes

Way ... Way back there :rolleyes:

When the heads had NEVER came off my little GT :D
and
It was bone stock :(

First thing I did was bump up the spark at the dizzy 6 degrees

I was like :eek: :bang:

What is all that ping about :scratch:

I will say this :)

Later on ... I self ported a set of E7's and worked the chambers a bit :D

I got my Tweecer while I had that combo and found I quit making WOT
power at 36 ... saw it in the dlogs ... don't ya know !!!

Now to be honest :)

You gotta ask ........

Was the reason I could run the 36 degrees

because I modified the chambers
or
because I had the fuel fatter

:shrug: :scratch: :shrug: :scratch:

But those old iron heads made power ... well ... kinda sorta :)

Lets just say ... They made ... all they could muster ... at 36 :rlaugh:

Grady
 
Ah I would bet the smoothed over chambers cut out a few potential hotspots and let you go a bit higher. Like you saw, stock castings leave a bit to be desired. :-D

I like the class the OP is running in. It's amazing what you can do with stock parts. I've had the opportunity to tune for a few people in similar classes. There are a lot of nice tricks you can pull to really make stock stuff move. And of course the age old driver mod always does wonders!

Wes
 
Thanks for the replies boyz...........I will get the tweecer installed and get a handle on it real soon. This weekend I will check the OEM 100,000 mile valve springs, (replace if needed) and Thursday nite, hit our local 1/8 track for the maiden voyage. 8.50-8.70 would be the goal for the half track.

P.S. 35-38 degress total has worked on every 289-351 SBF I have ever owned.
This motor is a little short of that at 12 initial, but I guess that is why I
bought a Tweecer .
 
If you are talking about Trophy Stock class, then there are guys running high 11s. That class is way out there and highly competitive. I've talked with some of the guys who run in that class, and they really bend the rules, but stay legal. They run stock heads that are tricked out to stay just within limits. They also mess with the camshafts quite a bit. They have to run stock total duration and lift, but they adjust the ramp angles on the cam to make more power. Most cars running in stock engine classes are extremely light. I see a lot more fox bodies in those classes. I don't know how the rules are now, but the last time I checked most of them were running C4 trannies, or T-5s.

Kurt
 
Charlie ... Charlie ... Charlie

Step on up into the 21st Century :D

Hey ... I really do understand as I'm a bit long in the tooth as they say :rlaugh:

Seriously ... forget about the carb jets, dizzy springs & bob weights :)

You now tune with your finger tips :Word:
and
You don't even get them dirty :nice:

You're gonna have fun with all that new fangled wizardry :banana:

You can tell that little silver box to do EXACTLY as you wish :spot:

Fuel AND Spark can be adjusted by ......
RPM
Load
Engine Coolant Temp
and more :eek:

Hey ... We couldn't do that back ... In The Good Old Days :nono:

Grady
 
A sn95 with stock motor runnin 12's, and an auto at that. Sorry boys I ain't buyin that.
We're talking about a car that runs what 15.1 stock. Even if you strip the car down to a tin can I can't see a tune taking off almost 2 seconds.
 
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Seriously, how is that REMOTELY possible with 200hp @ 3400lbs??? Those numbers = 15 sec 1/4 mile, maybe 14s with a really good launch. I need some kind of proof. Are you talking 1/8th mile? Because that would be more like 18sec 1/4 which is slower than stock, so I'm way confused.
 
Dear Zero
I am talking 1/4 mile. We will see Thursday evening. Our local 1/8 mile track is open for test and tune. I will hope for something around an 8.50.........I will get back to all of you.
 
Here is the update. Went to our local 1/8 mile track Thursday evening. Leaves the starting line with great 60' times, 1.790 was the best of my 3 passes. Rpms fine to 5000 and stops, just like the key was shut off, it then shifts and pulls great until 5000rpm and again noses over very hard. Best ET with this huge nose over issue, 9.14. Ordered the Crane valve spring kit from Summit yesterday, and should have the tweecer installed by next weekend. Overall, I was very pleased with the outing. I believe that tuned and pulling to the 5500rpm mark, low 13's to hi 12's will not be a problem.
 
Hello Charlie

Since you drag ... I'll focus in on that kind of application :D

Here is a tip or two to get your noobie Tweecer self tuning feet wet :rlaugh:

I'd get a Wide Band so you can dial in your fuel ... right on the money :nice:

Spark ... I'd start with 36 total
and
Get it all in by 2500

Fuel ... I'd start with a ratio of 12.25 to 1.00

You can slowly lean it out
and
+ or - spark at the strip as needed

You can kill the tip in spark retard :banana:

In a nutshell ... You match the value in that scalar with what ever
amount of total spark you run in your main spark table :)

Good Luck Charlie :nice:
and
Welcome to the world of Self Tuning :spot:

Grady
Hi I need some of your help and I would also pay for it if needed I live in fort worth area too and I have a tweecer on my Turbo fox that I can't seem to tune because I'm new to it could u help either email me at [email protected] or u can text or call me 682 552 4945 my name is Sam Thanks allot
 
Please contact me I need help bad on this tune I got it close but I know I'm off because my headers get red when I drive it


Is there a dyno tuner anywhere near you?

I skimmed through the thread so I may have missed something. I did not see mention of a wideband meter. It is nearly impossible to tune without some indication of AFR or EGT. I'll even go so far as to say completely impossible for someone who is not a tuner.

You should take your entire setup (including laptop and software) to a tuner and setup an appointment to have that thing tuned before it is irreparably harmed.