New Engine won't start, HELP!!!!

[99FiveOh]

I've had times when my battery was almost dead and the motor would turn VEERRRYYY SLLLOOWWWLLYYY, but it would still fire up. So as long as it's a nice constant spin on the engine, I don't see that as your problem.

Have you tried spraying some starter fluid in there to see if it'll catch? If it tries to stat with starter fluid sprayed down the throat then you know it's fuel related, if not, then it's a timing/ignition problem.

Where are you located, maybe one of use can come give you a hand with it.? Just an idea.

 

[crogers813]

I've had times when my battery was almost dead and the motor would turn VEERRRYYY SLLLOOWWWLLYYY, but it would still fire up. So as long as it's a nice constant spin on the engine, I don't see that as your problem.

Have you tried spraying some starter fluid in there to see if it'll catch? If it tries to stat with starter fluid sprayed down the throat then you know it's fuel related, if not, then it's a timing/ignition problem.

Where are you located, maybe one of use can come give you a hand with it.? Just an idea.

I am in Alvin TX, just south of Houston on 288. BUT, I hope I might have found the problem. I decided to take the dizzy out and micro the gears, make sure everything was in spec, and I pulled the factory tape and mesh wire cover down away from the casing, and the insulation on all the wires was gone. 4 exposed wires at least 3 inches long. I'm hoping this is enough that although the plugs were sparking, they weren't firing completely. IDK, I just hope a new dizzy will fix it.

 

[99FiveOh]

Well, you got 2 hours to get down to the parts store and get a new dizzy before they close! Get movin'!!!

 

[HISSIN50]

I'm getting enough fuel that when I checked the plugs, you could smell the gas and they were damp or wet depending on which cylinder.

Did you clean them all up? Wet plugs don't fire very well.

I would do as Richard noted. If that doesn't help, put a jumper cable from the engine to the neg battery terminal.


EDIT: Your most recent post hadnt hit when I opened this. Good luck with the PIP wiring. If it still cranks slow, then see above (PIP wiring and slow cranking are separate issues).

 

[crogers813]

Did you clean them all up? Wet plugs don't fire very well.

I would do as Richard noted. If that doesn't help, put a jumper cable from the engine to the neg battery terminal.


EDIT: Your most recent post hadnt hit when I opened this. Good luck with the PIP wiring. If it still cranks slow, then see above (PIP wiring and slow cranking are separate issues).

Still no go, crap. Yeah, I cleaned all the plugs and I left them out about 20 minutes so the built up fuel could dissipate.

 

[99FiveOh]

Did you get the new dizzy yet?

I can tell you right now from the position of wiring coming out of the distributor that your timing isn't right. That plug should be more to the right, I"m thinking around the 2 or 3 o'clock position. Something in your method of finding TDC isn't correct.

 

[crogers813]

Did you get the new dizzy yet?

Yeah, new dizzy is in. Still no joy.

 

[crogers813]

Yeah, new dizzy is in. Still no joy.

That's what I thought, but the new dizzy base is built different than the stock one was. It has a flat bar on the side that only allows it to go in one way, and turn only so much.

 

[crogers813]

Did you get the new dizzy yet?

I can tell you right now from the position of wiring coming out of the distributor that your timing isn't right. That plug should be more to the right, I"m thinking around the 2 or 3 o'clock position. Something in your method of finding TDC isn't correct.

I'm going to swap the innards from the new one to the old one, and see if it will work that way.

 

[99FiveOh]

Yeah, that sounds weird! How in the hell do they expect you to time your car if the dizzy doesn't "allow" it to turn as far in any direction you wish!? I like my factory Ford unit with it's little notch in the base, helps to figure out how it should go in.

Here's a pic of mine for reference:

after seeing mine, I guess I was wrong about the position of the wiring harness coming out of the dizzy housing. Yours and mine aren't that far apart.

 

[crogers813]

Yeah, that sounds weird! How in the hell do they expect you to time your car if the dizzy doesn't "allow" it to turn as far in any direction you wish!? I like my factory Ford unit with it's little notch in the base, helps to figure out how it should go in.

Here's a pic of mine for reference:

after seeing mine, I guess I was wrong about the position of the wiring harness coming out of the dizzy housing. Yours and mine aren't that far apart.

Yeah, that's what I got back too as well. I'm wondering if my pointer bracket is bent or something, maybe when its pointing 0 it's not quite 0?

Any other suggestions on how to approach the timing, cause I've done and tried everything suggested, and it still doesn't start. Should I try opening the TB some to let more air in? Replace the IAC? any other suggestions? crapola

Here's where I stand

New Page 1

 

[crogers813]

Could sitting for a month while doing the build turn the gas? I had the fuel lines disconnected and sealed the ends in plastic ziploc bags to prevent seapage, but maybe thats the problem?? idk

 

[toyman]

Still no go, crap. Yeah, I cleaned all the plugs and I left them out about 20 minutes so the built up fuel could dissipate.

AND, this is with the replacement dizzy you picked up this afternoon?

Something is being overlooked or we are making assumptions about things that haven't been clarified.

For example, precisely what did you do to confirm the TDC of #1 piston?

 

[KamiKaziDK]

voltage regulator?

 

[99FiveOh]

The car will start with no alternator period, so the voltage regulator would have no affect on starting issues. (unless the battery is dead!)

 

[KamiKaziDK]

ah, ok. I've never had a problem with one in a fox body or sn, I just know on my 65 that it wouldn't start with a bad voltage regulator. Would the TFI cause it to happen?

 

[crogers813]

AND, this is with the replacement dizzy you picked up this afternoon?

Something is being overlooked or we are making assumptions about things that haven't been clarified.

For example, precisely what did you do to confirm the TDC of #1 piston?

Screwdriver in the plug 1 hole, O on the harmonic balancer. Stab the new Dizzy with the rotor aligned with the #1 on the cap. Slight twist counterclockwise to get the 10degrees for Ford. Marks also line up with Block and Distributor shaft mark.

I appreciate the help, and I still need it, but also please make certain you don't think me an idiot. I've built many a motor, but all carb. before this one.

 

[toyman]

Screwdriver in the plug 1 hole, O on the harmonic balancer. Stab the new Dizzy with the rotor aligned with the #1 on the cap. Slight twist counterclockwise to get the 10degrees for Ford. Marks also line up with Block and Distributor shaft mark.

I appreciate the help, and I still need it, but also please make certain you don't think me an idiot. I've built many a motor, but all carb. before this one.

Just trying to help. I may be mistaken but what you just described could also be the top of the exhaust stroke. How about one more rotation of the crank and restab the distributor to the #1 spot.

 

[crogers813]

Just trying to help. I may be mistaken but what you just described could also be the top of the exhaust stroke. How about one more rotation of the crank and restab the distributor to the #1 spot.

Yeah, I've tried it both ways. I just took all the plugs out, cleaned them, dried them. Blew the cylinders dry with air, and restabbed the dizzy. Stabbed it both ways. Still not a bit of difference.

I'm done, I don't know what else to try. It;s getting towed to a shop on Monday I guess.

Is it possible to compression test a motor that hasn't even run yet? I wouldn't think so since the rings haven't seated yet, but I'm not sure. I've never had to comp test a new motor, only old ones.

 

[99FiveOh]

Just trying to help. I may be mistaken but what you just described could also be the top of the exhaust stroke. How about one more rotation of the crank and restab the distributor to the #1 spot.

Yes! I once worked on an old 68 Cutlass I bought for 200 bucks. I was about to throw a hammer through ALL the windows when my cousin came and helped me out. Turns out I had it 180* out, everything lined up, but I was at the top of the exhaust stroke, I didn't realize there was a difference (I was 17 ).

Anyway, when the screwdriver just starts to come up on #1 cylinder, take it out and put your finger over the spark plug hole and feel for pressure pushing your fingure away. On the compression stroke both the exhaust and intake valves are closed and this is the stroke you want. On the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is open so no air will try to escape past your finger.

We don't think you an idiot. We all know too well that no matter how knowledgable you are with these cars, there's always some stupid little thing that'll bite you in the hind quarters!