Thanks for catching that FastDriver. I thought it didn't sound right. However, I would like to add one more thing. Guess I should stick to stud mount (all I ever used).
When spinning the pushrod while hand tightening the bolt - As soon as you feel resistance in the pushrod, this is zero lash. Stop. Then check torque on rocker arm bolt as previously mentioned.
Strype, with this new information, I would definitely check the valves again.
Yeah, it's hard to explain this without showing someone in person. My method (and I know methods are like A-holes) is spinning the pushrod very lightly. Now, if you grab ahold of that SOB and force it, it'll spin well past 0 lash, but if you spin it lightly, when it's seated on both sides it'll stop. Just a technique.
And Strype, the timing stuff mentioned is only going to get you into the ballpark. Once you get her running, you'll have to pull the spout connector and run a timing light on her to dial in the base timing. I think you've already got that, but I just wanted to clarify so that there's absolutely no chance you'll go romp on it with the timing possibly too advanced.
I can't remember exactly, but I want to say there's about a 30* window, in crank degrees, to either side of center of the rotor. If you're outside of that window, the spark could jump to one of the adjacent cylinders, and the car won't start.
Chris