HOW DO I CARB. MY 5.0?

Celeb · Sep 10, 2009

BK_CAULEY said:
for whatever reason i cant stand carb conversions. i cant even stand it when people delete the a/c. hell im looking at ways to make an 84 project car efi now.

How about a nice set of aftermarket headers...is that a no no too? lol just kidding

BK_CAULEY · Sep 10, 2009

302 LX Coupe said:
How about a nice set of aftermarket headers...is that a no no too? lol just kidding

heck no. i just love keeping cars semi stock functioning. modding the drivetrain is way cool but im seeing more and more gutted race car foxes and its getting rediculous.

Guilty93 · Sep 10, 2009

let me poke my $2.92 in here real quick. pros of fuel injection.... if you drive daily with a reasonable cam and have oh.... 1500ft of altitude variance and 40 degrees of temperature shift at any given time then yes efi will out preform a carb every time. boosted car? sure efi all day. cons... some people like to be able to see both valve covers or are ocd about symmetry or find $500 for an intake to just be a rude asking price. not to mention MAF TB EGR spacer injectors fuel rails ect. with a carb yes you have to tune it if you dont know how then its something new for you to learn (kinda the point of modding in the first place). and with heavy mods or bigger injectors you have to have efi tuned too.

im not saying that a efi isn't more practical but if we were to do everything the practical way we would all just drive honda civics. i enjoy tinkering with my car and carbs are perfectly reliable i would say more so than efi (in the which is more likely to leave you on the side of the hwy category). and i understand that some of you like to just in your 500hp turbo'd foxes and turn the key and go without so much as a warm up and that is perfectly fine. but please dont bash us grease monkeys that enjoy big cubes and secondaries. ....in that same breath i TOTALY agree with JR. IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO A CARB SWAP (or anything for that matter) DO IT TASTEFULLY!!!

Rich Essy · Dec 3, 2016

Celeb said:
EFI to Carburetor Conversion

Introduction
This article is for anyone with an '86-'95 Mustang that is contemplating converting from the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) to a carburetor.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Why Are You Converting?
The first question you should ask yourself is why. Why do you want to go from fuel injection to carb? If your car is a daily driver that is fairly stock then you are just wasting your time and money. Your gas mileage will decrease, you will lose some low end torque, you will lose some drivability, you will increase your exhaust emissions, and decrease the value of your car. If you have a street/strip car and are looking for a cheaper way to build more power then a carb setup might be for you. If it is a race car and you don't care about drivability then a carb is a smart choice. Don't get me wrong,

On the Black Harness:

----GROUND #97 (tan/light green - 18ga) to a suitable chassis ground. This creates the ground for the primary side of the fuel pump relay.

---Wire #39 (red/white 20ga) to the temp sender.

---Wire #31 (white/red 20ga) to the oil pressure sender.

---Wire #361 (red 16ga) to #16 (the wire you ran to the ignition turn-on above). This creates the positive voltage supply for the primary side of the fuel pump relay.

Only other thing that you need to do is when wiring in the fuel pump itself. Just get the polarity right on the two wires that are coming off the stock EFI pump. I cut them and extended them out to where my Holley Blue is.

On the underside of the car, you can disconnect the O2 sensors and oil level sensor (side of oil pan) and pull that harness out too. I didn't mess with it, but you could rewire the oil level sensor to still be operational if you wanted.

After that, you should be good to go! As far as wiring the ignition, you'll have to run wires to the positive side of the battery and chassis ground as well as wire the pickup to the distributor. If you've got an MSD, the diagram can be found at: MSD Ignition

Celeb said:
EFI to Carburetor Conversion

Introduction
This article is for anyone with an '86-'95 Mustang that is contemplating converting from the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) to a carburetor.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Why Are You Converting?
The first question you should ask yourself is why. Why do you want to go from fuel injection to carb? If your car is a daily driver that is fairly stock then you are just wasting your time and money. Your gas mileage will decrease, you will lose some low end torque, you will lose some drivability, you will increase your exhaust emissions, and decrease the value of your car. If you have a street/strip car and are looking for a cheaper way to build more power then a carb setup might be for you. If it is a race car and you don't care about drivability then a carb is a smart choice. Don't get me wrong, a good well thought out carbureted combo is a very good system. But if you are switching to a carb just to solve your problems with EFI you might be surprised. A carburetor requires work to get it right. You may be trading in your problems for a whole new set of problems that you know nothing about. Before doing anything carefully weigh out your decision to remove the factory system from your car. In the end I hope that whatever decision you make turns out to be the best for you and your car. GOOD LUCK!!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mechanical Changes
Intake and Carburetor: Of course if you are converting from EFI to carb you must have an intake manifold and a carburetor. Just be sure to size the components to match your combination properly. The Building the Perfect Combo article on this website can help.

Fuel System: You will need a new fuel pump and pickup. Do NOT use the existing EFI pump. You can either use an electric low pressure pump designed for a carb (like the Holley red or blue pumps) or go with a mechanical fuel pump. In either case you must replace the fuel pickup on top of the gas tank with a purpose built pickup that does not include an in-tank pump. The Mustang Performance Handbook Vol. 1 includes plans to build your own pickup if you decide not to shell out the $100 that it takes to buy an aftermarket one. If you have a drag car it may be time to upgrade to a fuel cell or modify your existing tank for a bottom sump. At this time I also recommend you go with new fuel line from the tank to the carb. Use 3/8" minimum or larger based on your needs. Remember that many sanctioned race tracks will only allow up to 12" of rubber fuel line so go with aluminum wherever possible, and keep the lines in-between the frame rails for safety. To use a mechanical fuel pump you must change the front timing cover on the engine to one that accepts a bolt-on fuel pump. You may also need a fuel pump eccentric to drive the pump. My '88 motor had one from the factory but I have heard of some roller motors that do not have them.

Ignition: Replace the distributor with one from an '85 manual transmission Mustang. This distributor has a steel gear to be compatible with a roller cam. Also use a Ford Duraspark II ignition box. Follow the Ford Duraspark II Ignition System article on this website to hook it up right. A complete MSD distributor and box could also be used as a step up from the factory stuff.

Brackets & Linkage: Any fox body accelerator linkage will work as long as the car was equipped with a carbureted V8. Look for a '79-'85 V8 Mustang or an '83-'88 V8 T-bird if you go junkyard searching. You will also need the throttle cable bracket attached to the intake manifold and a throttle return spring.

Transmission: This is probably the most critical step of the whole process. If you have a manual transmission you have nothing to worry about. However, if you have an AOD automatic you need a TV (throttle valve) cable. You can purchase this from Lokar Performance (NOTE: this is the same cable that Windsor-Fox Performance carries except $25 cheaper from Lokar direct). Setup is critical so follow the instructions included closely. Setting up the cable wrong will lead to a burned up transmission in very short order.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Electrical Changes
The electrical changes described here are for a 1990 Mustang. All '89-'93 mass air equipped Stangs will be very similar. '86-'88 speed density and '94-'95 mass air Stangs will also be close but some changes will be necessary. The best method to keep the wiring straight is to purchase a Chilton's Manual that includes wiring diagrams. Compare your car's wiring to the 1990 Mustang wiring. By using this outline and the correct wiring diagram the job will be much easier.

Your car is divided into two harnesses; the EEC harness and the main or "chassis" harness. The EEC harness contains all of the computer related sensors, actuators, and such. It also contains some of the wiring for the air bag system. The chassis harness contains everything else; headlights, fuel pump wiring, instrument cluster, etc., etc. In order for the EEC to receive power from the battery, control fuel pump, and the airbag to work properly, the two harnesses must mesh together at some point. There are 4 of these points:

--Two connectors near the computer (passenger-side kick panel). One is green, one is gray. Both are 8-pin connectors I believe. One is rectangular and the other is round.

--Two connectors near the driver's side hood hinge and right above the master cylinder. One is gray, one i

On the Black Harness:

----GROUND #97 (tan/light green - 18ga) to a suitable chassis ground. This creates the ground for the primary side of the fuel pump relay.

---Wire #39 (red/white 20ga) to the temp sender.

---Wire #31 (white/red 20ga) to the oil pressure sender.

---Wire #361 (red 16ga) to #16 (the wire you ran to the ignition turn-on above). This creates the positive voltage supply for the primary side of the fuel pump relay.

Only other thing that you need to do is when wiring in the fuel pump itself. Just get the polarity right on the two wires that are coming off the stock EFI pump. I cut them and extended them out to where my Holley Blue is.

On the underside of the car, you can disconnect the O2 sensors and oil level sensor (side of oil pan) and pull that harness out too. I didn't mess with it, but you could rewire the oil level sensor to still be operational if you wanted.

After that, you should be good to go! As far as wiring the ignition, you'll have to run wires to the positive side of the battery and chassis ground as well as wire the pickup to the distributor. If you've got an MSD, the diagram can be found at: MSD Ignition

Celeb said:
EFI to Carburetor Conversion

Introduction
This article is for anyone with an '86-'95 Mustang that is contemplating converting from the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) to a carburetor.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Why Are You Converting?
The first question you should ask yourself is why. Why do you want to go from fuel injection to carb? If your car is a daily driver that is fairly stock then you are just wasting your time and money. Your gas mileage will decrease, you will lose some low end torque, you will lose some drivability, you will increase your exhaust emissions, and decrease the value of your car. If you have a street/strip car and are looking for a cheaper way to build more power then a carb setup might be for you. If it is a race car and you don't care about drivability then a carb is a smart choice. Don't get me wrong, a good well thought out carbureted combo is a very good system. But if you are switching to a carb just to solve your problems with EFI you might be surprised. A carburetor requires work to get it right. You may be trading in your problems for a whole new set of problems that you know nothing about. Before doing anything carefully weigh out your decision to remove the factory system from your car. In the end I hope that whatever decision you make turns out to be the best for you and your car. GOOD LUCK!!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mechanical Changes
Intake and Carburetor: Of course if you are converting from EFI to carb you must have an intake manifold and a carburetor. Just be sure to size the components to match your combination properly. The Building the Perfect Combo article on this website can help.

Fuel System: You will need a new fuel pump and pickup. Do NOT use the existing EFI pump. You can either use an electric low pressure pump designed for a carb (like the Holley red or blue pumps) or go with a mechanical fuel pump. In either case you must replace the fuel pickup on top of the gas tank with a purpose built pickup that does not include an in-tank pump. The Mustang Performance Handbook Vol. 1 includes plans to build your own pickup if you decide not to shell out the $100 that it takes to buy an aftermarket one. If you have a drag car it may be time to upgrade to a fuel cell or modify your existing tank for a bottom sump. At this time I also recommend you go with new fuel line from the tank to the carb. Use 3/8" minimum or larger based on your needs. Remember that many sanctioned race tracks will only allow up to 12" of rubber fuel line so go with aluminum wherever possible, and keep the lines in-between the frame rails for safety. To use a mechanical fuel pump you must change the front timing cover on the engine to one that accepts a bolt-on fuel pump. You may also need a fuel pump eccentric to drive the pump. My '88 motor had one from the factory but I have heard of some roller motors that do not have them.

Ignition: Replace the distributor with one from an '85 manual transmission Mustang. This distributor has a steel gear to be compatible with a roller cam. Also use a Ford Duraspark II ignition box. Follow the Ford Duraspark II Ignition System article on this website to hook it up right. A complete MSD distributor and box could also be used as a step up from the factory stuff.

Brackets & Linkage: Any fox body accelerator linkage will work as long as the car was equipped with a carbureted V8. Look for a '79-'85 V8 Mustang or an '83-'88 V8 T-bird if you go junkyard searching. You will also need the throttle cable bracket attached to the intake manifold and a throttle return spring.

Transmission: This is probably the most critical step of the whole process. If you have a manual transmission you have nothing to worry about. However, if you have an AOD automatic you need a TV (throttle valve) cable. You can purchase this from Lokar Performance (NOTE: this is the same cable that Windsor-Fox Performance carries except $25 cheaper from Lokar direct). Setup is critical so follow the instructions included closely. Setting up the cable wrong will lead to a burned up transmission in very short order.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Electrical Changes
The electrical changes described here are for a 1990 Mustang. All '89-'93 mass air equipped Stangs will be very similar. '86-'88 speed density and '94-'95 mass air Stangs will also be close but some changes will be necessary. The best method to keep the wiring straight is to purchase a Chilton's Manual that includes wiring diagrams. Compare your car's wiring to the 1990 Mustang wiring. By using this outline and the correct wiring diagram the job will be much easier.

Your car is divided into two harnesses; the EEC harness and the main or "chassis" harness. The EEC harness contains all of the computer related sensors, actuators, and such. It also contains some of the wiring for the air bag system. The chassis harness contains everything else; headlights, fuel pump wiring, instrument cluster, etc., etc. In order for the EEC to receive power from the battery, control fuel pump, and the airbag to work properly, the two harnesses must mesh together at some point. There are 4 of these points:

--Two connectors near the computer (passenger-side kick panel). One is green, one is gray. Both are 8-pin connectors I believe. One is rectangular and the other is round.

--Two connectors near the driver's side hood hinge and right above the master cylinder. One is gray, one is black. They are both round, 8-pin connectors. One of the connectors does not utilize all 8 pins.

The first thing to do is the part that's the most fun! LOL Disconnect the battery (of course!). Remove the computer and the EEC Power relay that sits directly above the computer. On the 60-pin connector that plugs into the computer, remove the black plastic "cap" which holds the wire bundle at a 90 degree angle to the connector. Unplug the two 8-pin connectors mentioned above, unscrew the bare wire ground and you should be able to pull the harness up into the engine compartment. The oval-shaped grommet will come with the harness, so use a screwdriver to pop it out of the hole.

Once you've got that done, everything you need to remove is under the hood. Just start at one end of the harness and work your way around and disconnect everything you come to that attaches to the EEC harness. As a minimum, you're going to have to remove the upper intake to get to all this. This should include the following items:

--TAB/TAD solenoids
--EVR solenoid
--MAF meter
--Air Bag connector below MAF
--Round 8-pin connector below MAF
--EVP solenoid
--TPS
--IAC
--All 8 injectors
--Water temp sender
--Oil pressure sender
--TFI module
--ACT
--ECT
--Carbon canister solenoid
--ground at starter solenoid (single pin connector)
--Two connectors located near brake booster

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but just disconnect everything you come to and the entire EEC harness will pull out. You will be shocked at how much all that copper weighs..LOL

Once you've got everything out, it's time to start re-wiring. All the re-wiring will take place at the two connectors by the brake booster that you unhooked earlier. This is how you will tap into the chassis harness and get things like the fuel pump working again. Best way to accomplish this is to tap into the wires just below the connectors. I use those little plastic splice connectors...works great. Be sure to tape up the open ends of the connectors to prevent water from getting in there.

If you've got a Chiltons with the wiring diagrams in it, I will include the reference numbers for each wire if you'd like to look them up.

On the Gray Harness:

---Wire #16 (red/light green - 16 Ga) to the ignition trigger/turn-on lead. On my MSD it's the thinner red wire.

---Wire #11 (Dark Green/Yellow - 20 Ga) to the negative side of coil or the "tach out" port on an MSD. This is the line to your stock tach.

On the Black Harness:

----GROUND #97 (tan/light green - 18ga) to a suitable chassis ground. This creates the ground for the primary side of the fuel pump relay.

---Wire #39 (red/white 20ga) to the temp sender.

---Wire #31 (white/red 20ga) to the oil pressure sender.

---Wire #361 (red 16ga) to #16 (the wire you ran to the ignition turn-on above). This creates the positive voltage supply for the primary side of the fuel pump relay.

Only other thing that you need to do is when wiring in the fuel pump itself. Just get the polarity right on the two wires that are coming off the stock EFI pump. I cut them and extended them out to where my Holley Blue is.

On the underside of the car, you can disconnect the O2 sensors and oil level sensor (side of oil pan) and pull that harness out too. I didn't mess with it, but you could rewire the oil level sensor to still be operational if you wanted.

After that, you should be good to go! As far as wiring the ignition, you'll have to run wires to the positive side of the battery and chassis ground as well as wire the pickup to the distributor. If you've got an MSD, the diagram can be found at: MSD Ignition

I know this is an old thread but I have a question .

I have an 89 and the black plug doesn't have a tan green wire, I did find the tan/green at the relay. can I just snip the tan/green at the relay and ground it?

RaggedGT · Dec 4, 2016

Rich Essy said:
I know this is an old thread but I have a question .

I have an 89 and the black plug doesn't have a tan green wire, I did find the tan/green at the relay. can I just snip the tan/green at the relay and ground it?

I see you are New here.
So First thing- Welcome to Stangnet

Second thing- as you already know, you have been digging up Old threads ,the main thing to know about old threads is that most of the members have more than likely left the forum and will not reply.
My recommendations to you would be: go to the fox forum and post your own thread asking these questions . There are plenty of helpful guys there with tons of carb knowledge

Again welcome to Stangnet

General karthief · Dec 4, 2016

I got an 89 and that tan/green wire is nothin but trouble.

jrichker · Dec 4, 2016

Rich Essy said:
I know this is an old thread but I have a question .

I have an 89 and the black plug doesn't have a tan green wire, I did find the tan/green at the relay. can I just snip the tan/green at the relay and ground it?

I have a question: why convert an EFI car to carb? Is the a strip/race track car only?

CarMichael Angelo · Dec 7, 2016

jrichker said:
I have a question: why convert an EFI car to carb? Is the a strip/race track car only?

Says the Hawk,.....ready to swoop down on the mouse........

General karthief · Dec 7, 2016

I thinks he gots scared away

a91what · Dec 8, 2016

Don't worry the Book of Face will have plenty of misinformation for him to hack the car with.

What an old thread.

mikestang63 · Dec 9, 2016

a91what said:
Don't worry the Book of Face will have plenty of misinformation for him to hack the car with.

What an old thread.

I HAVEN'T SLEPT IN DAYS................DID HE SNIP THE TAN/GREEN WIRE?????

Canyouhearmatt · Jul 29, 2019

mikestang63 said:
I HAVEN'T SLEPT IN DAYS................DID HE SNIP THE TAN/GREEN WIRE?????

Guys I'm dealing with this now. Yes I dug up an old thread but the question was never answered. I can't get my fuel pump to cut on and yes I got the car carb converted already. I started to remove all the wiring and followed the new wiring instructions up to the this black plug where it's all not making sense now. Can someone please help me please!

Canyouhearmatt · Jul 29, 2019

Also this is the thread that pulls up with the correct key terms on Google, if we can have an answer here it would probably help alot of people in the same situation

RaggedGT · Jul 29, 2019

I think @jrichker did a efi to carb swap write up somewhere on here, he may pop in and drop some knowledge

jrichker · Jul 29, 2019

Canyouhearmatt said:
Also this is the thread that pulls up with the correct key terms on Google, if we can have an answer here it would probably help alot of people in the same situation

You must be one of those people that paint mustaches on pictures of beautiful women. Carving up and EFI car to put a carb on it is desecration of a piece of fine machinery.

Since I feel that way, normally I wouldn't bother trying to help someone destroy a car. However, since one of Stangnet's good members mentioned my name, I will post the tech not on how to do it the right way.

EFI to carb swaps

Revised 10 Aug 2017 to add comment about using an in-tank fuel pump from an 85 5.0 Mustang

A word of warning on EFI to carb swaps: don’t expect to pass emissions in any state that does comprehensive smog inspections, because it won’t happen. Some states will not title or issue license plates to cars that have been converted from EFI to carb. Be aware that you are violating several Federal laws concerning the removal of pollution control equipment. If you operate the vehicle on public highways and get caught by state or federal law enforcement (doubtful, but possible) you could be subject to fines and imprisonment. You won't get any more power from a carb than you will from a properly maintained and tuned EFI system.

The following information is intended for informational purposes only. Operation of a motor vehicle modified in such as manner as described below should be limited to off road use only.

Doing the swap; you must know how to read electrical diagrams and wire circuits to properly do the swap. Don’t take shortcuts or cut corners in the fabrication of the electrical or mechanical assemblies. If you do NASCAR quality work, the car will look good, run good and be as reliable as a carb’d car can be. Take pride in a job done with excellence.

If you are one of those few people who do excellent work, please disregard my negative comments. They are not intended for you.

Quality, quality, quality…
Some of the motivation of my negative comments about EFI to carb has to do with the quality of electrical workmanship. A lot of the wiring “repairs” that I have seen on the road and in the junkyard looks like road kill. The other part of my negative view stems from people who can’t grasp the operation and tuning of EFI. Carbs have their own set of requirements and some learning is required to get the best performance. Every car is different and each installation needs to be tuned to get the best performance. Putting an “out of the box carb” or one from someone else’s car isn’t the way to success. There is no auto compensation for small variations in carbs like there is for EFI. Just throwing a carb on a car because you won’t bother to learn how EFI works is a poor excuse.

Now that the rant is over, here’s some practical advice…

1. Do not use an EFI in tank fuel pump with a carb. You will never get the pressure/flow regulated properly. If the add on pressure regulator fails, you will flood the engine with gas and wash all the oil off the cylinder walls. That will cost you big time $$$. Either go full EFI or use a tank/fuel pump/fuel lines out of an 85 or earlier Stang. The in tank electric fuel pump from an 85 5.0 Stang can be used since it is only 10 PSI and not 40PSI+ output pressure that an EFI pump delivers.. Fabricating your own setup is possible but there are some snags to overcome.

2. Do not attempt to leave the EFI computer in place in an attempt to control either the electric fuel pump or ignition. Doing so qualifies you for the “Road Kill Mechanics Award”.

3. If you try to use your current tank, you will need to pull the fuel pump out and fabricate a pickup tube & strainer sock to replace the fuel pump. Or you can have a sump fabricated and welded onto you existing tank. Many welding shops will not weld fuel tanks because of the dangers involved if the tank isn't purged properly.

4. You will need an external electric fuel pump unless you change the timing cover for one with the mechanical fuel pump mount on it. The external pump will have to be mounted below the bottom of the tank to get the siphon effect needed to keep the pump fed sufficiently. Rip all the EFI wiring out, and the computer controlled fuel pump won't work. You will need to add a relay & switch and wire in the existing inertia switch for an external low pressure electric fuel pump. Do not try to wire the fuel pump without the relay. The 15-20 amps the pump pulls will overload the circuit. This will take power away from other items on the same circuit or cause the fuse or fuse link to blow.

5.

6. You will need to run some new fuel feed lines or braided hose. The 3/8" aluminum tubing works well, but you will need a flaring tool and bending springs to fabricate the lines. Braided hose is easy to run and route, but is much more expensive. It is about $3.50-$4.00 a foot plus the end fittings, which are $3-$4 each. Fabricating hose assembles can be difficult, but anyplace that makes hydraulic hoses can do it for you for an extra charge. See http://www.amazonhose.com for more information.

7. For some help fabricating your own stainless steel hose assemblies, see
8. http://www.turbinefun.com/Stainless_Braided_Hose_Assembly.asp

9. For stainless steel braided hose and fittings for automotive use:

10. See http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=stainless steel hose&dds=1
11. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=stainless steel hose&dds=1

12. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...hall&searchTerm=stainless+steel+hose&x=18&y=4

13. See http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Product...rformanceProducts/FittingsProducts/index.htm for more information on High performance automotive hose products

14. AN fittings require a 37 degree flaring tool. A standard automotive or household plumbing tool is 45 degrees and cannot be used with AN flare fittings. If you do, the flare is subjected to too much stress when the fitting is tightened, and is likely to fail or leak.

15. See http://www.mscdirect.com/ , http://www.mcmaster.com/ or for the flaring tool you will need . Prices start at $85 and go up

16. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000013509163
17.

18. http://www.mcmaster.com/#flaring-tools/=b4fxc3
19.

20. Last time I was in Summit racing, they had a 37 degree flaring tool for less than $40. It may or may not be a catalog item.

21. While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Duraspark or similar ignition system. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Duraspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=127 for more information. Cost is about $400, which makes the 85 Mustang reman units look really appealing.

Duraspark II ignition diagram:

Diagram courtesy of /www.billwrigley.com

See http://webpages.charter.net/1bad6t/duraspark.html for more help.
Note the ballast resistor shown in the diagram: you’ll need that too
If you use a coil from a 78 or later Mustang, you don't need the ballast resistor. The stock 89 Ford/Mustang ignition coil does not need a ballast resistor

A simpler HEI ignition that uses the same distributor and fewer parts can be found here. This is an excellent resource, and I suggest that you add it to your Internet Favorites

Ignition systems for the Duraspark Conversion

After you have completed the Duraspark distributor conversion by following this thread. CLICK For Non-Fuel Injection Now how about something easy for the ignition. Here is the DS distributor running a GM 4 wire ignition module. Now you get modern electronics (same as the $$$ HEI Distr has)...

www.binderplanet.com

22. Tools needed:
23. Crimp tool for connector pins $9-$30 AutoZone, NAPA, Advance Auto Parts or other store
24. 100-150 watt soldering gun (recommend WELLER 8200PK soldering gun kit 100/140W) $30 at Lowes or $40 at Home Depot
25. 3/32”-1/8” rosin core electrical solder, 1/4 lb roll $6 at Ace Hardware, Home Depot or Lowes
26. Assorted sizes of heat shrink tubing. Buy long pieces and cut length to fit. It is cheaper that way. http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=346&CFID=169547&CFTOKEN=34300345
27. Hot air gun to shrink the tubing ($30-$40) Home Depot
28. Jeweler’s screwdriver kit $5 at Ace Hardware
29. Assorted automotive wire, 18-16 gauge 10’-20’ foot spools in different colors. $5 a roll at Advance Auto Parts.
30. Ford connector pins AutoZone, NAPA or other store $5-$10 for a kit of 10-12 assorted pins

31. You will have $110-$150 in materials and tools if you don't already have them.

32. The water temp and oil pressure signals feed from the sender to the main harness through the 10 pin EFI engine harness. To utilize these senders, you need to identify the wires and find a way to reconnect them to the main harness after the EFI engine harness is removed. You need a weatherproof quick connector to join the sender wiring to the main harness.

33. See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.

34. The injector power pin is the VPWR pin in the black 10 pin connector.

35. You will need to construct a wiring harness from the ‘85 carb distributor to the Duraspark box if you go Duraspark, or other distributor to coil wiring.
36. The voltmeter picks up its signal from the switched voltage present on the instrument panel, so you don’t need to worry about that.

37. The fuel tank gauge is also independent of the computer wiring.

38. AutoZone wiring diagrams can be found if you are willing to dig through the self help repair section of their website. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...3835D6CFF5E3A5037BBBD332CF445FF.diyprod2-b2c3

39. How to solder - see

View: http://youtu.be/uaYdCRjDr4A
This is an excellent how to do it.

40. Soldering pigtails onto existing pins is road kill quality work as far as I am concerned. Take some time to study the way the Ford connectors are assembled and you will find that a small jeweler’s screwdriver will release the pins from the connector shell. New pins and a crimping tool are available from the Standard Motor Parts or Bendix Electrical parts line that the NAPA & Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts stores carry. Ask any auto parts store about Standard Motor Products or Bendix Electrical wiring parts. Those that carry them will be able to get the parts you need. AutoZone has a cheap kit with 10 pins for about $5. Just enough pins to leave you short when assembling a connector.

41. One of the interesting things about the Ford OEM wiring diagrams is that the connector shape on the drawing matches the connector shape in the car. That makes it easier to identify connectors and circuits. OEM Ford diagrams are available at for an 85 Mustang at http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result....edia=&mscsid=2M838NG3R5SR2MCS00A3HVE05T03C501 or can be found in the Chilton series of auto repair manuals for Mustangs.

42. The following is an excellent idea from a fellow Stangnetter who tackled the wiring plan the right way. He obtained the wiring diagrams from an 85 carb'd V8 Mustang and laid them out side by side with the diagrams from his car. He then traced out each circuit and the wire colors and connectors associated with them. After tracing the circuit and connectors for a circuit, he laid out the changes he needed to make. One circuit at a time made a difficult big job into many smaller easy to manage jobs.

43. Copied from pikapp33.
JR’s comments: I have heard that there have been quality problems with some of these Richporter distributors, but that may be a limited quantity of the units.

I recently changed my EFI mustang back to carb with MSD ignition, to save some money and go for a more simplistic approach. I researched, and found the best stock type distributor to use was from an 83 Bronco 5.0, which is a Duraspark (magnetic pickup, same as what MSD dists use), making it possible to use the 2 wire MSD trigger input, and also has a steel gear to work with the EFI hydraulic roller cam.

I chose to use a Richporter FD30 ($85). Then added a BWD C194A Cap Adapter ($12) to use the Fox style dist cap/wires (the Richporter comes with cap/rotor, which I didn't use; other brands come without and are cheaper, but have a core as well; no core on this one). And then a BWD D166 rotor ($6) to match the cap adapter. I also chose to buy the MSD 8869 adapter wire ($20ish) to connect the dist to the MSD harness for my 6AL. All together about $125, much cheaper than the MSD billet dists, and am very happy with the quality of the dist and the way the setup worked out.

The Richporter FD30 distributor is available at Advance Auto Parts ($90) & O’Riley’s ($81)

Canyouhearmatt · Jul 29, 2019

I've seen you and your high horse about EFI ....its an old technology and it was Ford's first introduction on a motor that lost horsepower by being restricted by emmissions from what I can see and also...I've read that same reply, multiple times on different forums, I need a new answer. And also also, I got the car this way...so seriously...u compare EFI to a beautiful woman...k...with corroded connectors and chewed wires...so hot buddy....

Canyouhearmatt · Jul 29, 2019

I get it tho??! And I got the car running now .a simple reply would of been, just do this wiring to the connector under the seat versus the "black connector in the engine bay" ...I get it now..the curtains have been pulled the choir sings lmao

Boostedpimp · Jul 29, 2019

My92cashtrap · Jul 29, 2019

Angry man is angry...

General karthief · Jul 29, 2019

Canyouhearmatt said:
I get it tho??! And I got the car running now .a simple reply would of been, just do this wiring to the connector under the seat versus the "black connector in the engine bay" ...I get it now..the curtains have been pulled the choir sings lmao

A simple reply? converting efi to carb correctly and safely is not 'just connecting one wire'. When dealing with a conversion done by someone else is sketchy at best.
You were given step by step instructions on how to do it properly so you could check out the work done by the previous owner
And I think you should appreciate the fact that he took the time to give you this info even though he does not advocate efi to carb swaps but wants to help members get it done properly and safely.
I think you should reevaluate your attitude.

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