1992 LX Build thread!

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Bansheeman6100

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Mar 15, 2011
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17
#1
so my other thread, research on it and working on the Mustang has gotten me very driven in getting this car to the point ive been wanting to for years! the car has been parked for 2 years, after the radiator hose blew in traffic and she over-heated. i went to work on her and she atarted right up, no smoking, no odd idle, no water in oil. nothing. i was sure i had a blown head gasket. i've spent most of my project money on my F150 as of late, and shes done for now and gas prices are starting to hurt a little so i figured it was time to get the Mustang up again! im picking up a T5 and everything else neede minus pedal assembly from a 86 SVO on Friday, and will get that project rolling. and i want to do exhaust at the same time, but am not sure yet as i plan on swapping a 2.3T motor in at some point in the future. the other route ive been looking at recently is just leaving it N/A for awhile. swapping in a Ranger cam (dont feel like spending a few hundred on a nicer one), Ranger header with high-flow cats and Flowmaster Delta 40, removing air-silencer. what do yall think? what kind of power improvement would those roughly net? the car also needs a bit of paint touch-up and lowering springs, fresh tint will be going on in the following weeks. here are a few pics. this was after her first bath after 2 years, so she needs a little more cleaning as well. im on the budget of a broke soldier, so where i'd love to use nice new performance parts, its really not very feasible at the moment. thanks for the help and input! HOOAH :flag:

View attachment 193796
View attachment 193797

and the truck ive most recently been dumping money into
View attachment 193798
 

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#3
yep that is the air restriction - you definitely want that gone. you will probably get your horsepower up from 110 to 130 to 140ish with those mods. you could also up your injectors to 17 lb/hour from the 15's you have now. It'll help in the power department but will give the computer fits for the 1st week or so as it tries to learn the fuel - my CEL was off and on for a few days while it figured itself out.
 
#4
Delray Dude said:
yep that is the air restriction - you definitely want that gone. you will probably get your horsepower up from 110 to 130 to 140ish with those mods. you could also up your injectors to 17 lb/hour from the 15's you have now. It'll help in the power department but will give the computer fits for the 1st week or so as it tries to learn the fuel - my CEL was off and on for a few days while it figured itself out.
Click to expand...

hmm, figured the cam would be a little better. but i guess i will start collecting parts. the cam swap seems pretty easy overall, new lifters at the same time. i want to swap to forged pistons too, but not sure how feasible that is without removing the engine. and the injector idea seems like a good one. and as long as this thing is N/A, im trying to keep my MPG acceptable.

and how exactly would i remove the silencer? try and pry it out?

and my CEL is already dinging. my heater core was leaking so i bypassed it and the sensor in the line near the firewall. i think thats what set it off
 
#5
#6
to remove the restriction, if you look at your pic - the tube has an inner part and and outer shell. right where the hose clamp is, you can see where the inner is shoved up and a small lip where it contacts the outer shell. it's a bitch to start, but I used a flat head screwdriver to wedge inbetween the two pieces and force the inner part down into the center part of the hole - eventually I got enough of the inner part mashed down and was able to get a set of locking pliers on the inner piece and got a good grip and was able to pull it out. once you start to get it out, it'll come out fairly easy, but it is a bitch at 1st. I believe there are 2 pieces - one mased in on each side. once you get one side out you can use something like a piece of wood or something lease and force the other one out from the side you removed.

The bigger injectors will lower your MPG a little. I have a used set that I tried, if you want them you can have them for the cost of shipping.

Cam swap is fairly simple.

As for the CEL - could be anything - most of the time it's a failing O2 sensor. You can get the code readers for Ford OBD1 fairly cheap - like 5 bucks, it'll tell you what the computer thinks is wrong.
 
#8
thanks, i've got a buddy with an OBDI reader. i've done a lot of work with OBDII in my truck, but still getting used to OBDI. and hpw did you like those injectors? and i may take you up on that offer. my only issue with gutting the current cats is that i have to pass emissions in my county, thats my issue.

and i have good things about the Dynomax super turbo and they can be had cheap, so i think thats the route i will go for muffler
 
#9
20 ounces of acetone in an almost empty tank of gas - then fill the tank full of the 87 octane. drive the car for a day and get the engine nice and warm before you go to emissions. Shold pass with flying colors. Did that trick when we had to pass here in Florida. The car was a 280zx turbo car with a gutted cat.

The acetone blends with the fuel to make it burn more efficiently (also helps a little in power) - results in lower emissions.

As for the injectors - it ran great after the computer sorted it out - the computer took some time to relearn because it was programmed for the 15# and the squirt was more than it expected - so it would cut back the fuel resulting in it feeling wierd, kinda jerky - it finally learned it and smoothed out - but i remember it took a few days and the CEL would go on and off till it learned it. They came out of a 96 Grand Am with 25K miles - so they are good in that department. If you swap - keep the stock injectors and swap them in for emission testing as the 17's will be richer.
 
#10
Delray Dude said:
20 ounces of acetone in an almost empty tank of gas - then fill the tank full of the 87 octane. drive the car for a day and get the engine nice and warm before you go to emissions. Shold pass with flying colors. Did that trick when we had to pass here in Florida. The car was a 280zx turbo car with a gutted cat.

The acetone blends with the fuel to make it burn more efficiently (also helps a little in power) - results in lower emissions.

As for the injectors - it ran great after the computer sorted it out - the computer took some time to relearn because it was programmed for the 15# and the squirt was more than it expected - so it would cut back the fuel resulting in it feeling wierd, kinda jerky - it finally learned it and smoothed out - but i remember it took a few days and the CEL would go on and off till it learned it. They came out of a 96 Grand Am with 25K miles - so they are good in that department. If you swap - keep the stock injectors and swap them in for emission testing as the 17's will be richer.
Click to expand...
gotcha, thanks. i'll just hollow out the cats after i pass emissions, then deal with the rest next year when it has to pass again. but i'll end up taking it all out for the transmission anyways, thats why i was asking. but i'll just weld on a new muffler while im under there
 
#11
just talked to the guy im picking the T5 up from on Friday, and he has a complete engine out of a 86 SVO that was totalled with only 12k miles, anda few t-coupe's as well. i very well may come home with a engine too :rlaugh:

and if not this trip, i will probably go back. i decided im gonna drive the car with the T5 and N/A and see how i like it. i REALLY want to go turbo, but also really want to retain some kind of MPG. so we will see what happens! im comtemplating shaving the head, putting a A-237 cam in and throwing forged pistons in. then if i decide to turbo just get a complete setup from a t-coupe and bolting it on along with the EEC. i just am hesitant to swap in a whole new engine. i'd like to build mine and turbo it. the crazy part of my bran wants to put a DOHV volvo head on

and i still need a clutch pedal assembly and clutch quadrant if anyone has any
 
#12
just picked up the T5 and bought a new clutch set and cable. came with a Hurst short throw, driveshaft, crossmember and mount, and the aluminum separator plate. now all i need is the pedal assembly, shifter boot and bezel and quadrant i believe. and anyone know the recomended fluid for the T5 and capacity? he said automatic transmission fluid, but i wasnt sure
 
#13
only use automatic transmission fluid. THe T5 has very fine needle bearings in it - using gear or will not work - it's too think to get in and lubricate the bearings and will destroy the transmission.

not sure on the capacities - i'll find that somewhere - but i think you fill untill you hit the upper drain/fill plug on the passenger side.
 
#14
Delray Dude said:
only use automatic transmission fluid. THe T5 has very fine needle bearings in it - using gear or will not work - it's too think to get in and lubricate the bearings and will destroy the transmission.

not sure on the capacities - i'll find that somewhere - but i think you fill untill you hit the upper drain/fill plug on the passenger side.
Click to expand...

gotcha, thanks. i wasnt sure if i fill it on the side or i believe i read somwhere that it was filled from the shifter area. and will any DEX/MERC work?
 
#15
either works fine - i think I used mercron.


If the trans has been sitting for a bit - filling up from the top before you seal the shifter is fine and will pre-lubricate the shifting shaft - but trying to do this in the car is a pain - hard to get all 4 bolts off thru the hole in the floorboard (and more importantly back in).
 
#16
so me being an idiot bought a clutch set for a 1992, not an 86 SVO, which is what the transmission is. so i need to return it and buy the right one. and do i need a new speedo gear?

and on the driver side it looks like theres a plug missing, right below the shifter. its open. what plug will i need for that?

EDIT: i believe its the VSS,

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...BWD_3460630-P_1179_R|GRPSENSAMS_521824903____

and i wonder if that will plug into the harness, or if i will have to splice the connector
 
#17
well i ended up breaking down and buying a pedal assembly off ebay. comes with a UPR quadrant adjuster installed and a cable in perfect condition for $125. most of them online were that much or more and really didnt want to pull one out of a yard and have to remove it myself
 
#18
and maybe this is a problem thats common, or someone can ad some insight. one of my running lights doesnt come on when i flip them on, either running of full headlights. but it works fine for the turn signal. it just doesnt want to stay on for a running light. any clue?
 
#19
bad bulb most likely - they have two filaments inside the bulb - one for the running light (lower light filimant - not as bright as the other one - and a higher one for turn signal / brake. I suspenct you replace the bulb you'll be ok
 
#20
Ahh, thanks! I figured they were the same. And got the Mustang home today! Gonna start tearing the transmission out and get moving. Need to drop off the flywheel to get re-surfaced and waiting on the pedals, and assorted parts like shifter boot, speedo gear, etc.

Also had a very strange problem on the drive home. The temperature was all over the gauge. Ranging from right below half way to almost in the red. I had the fan hard wired so it stayed on the whole time. Reason being is it doesn't seem to want to kick on, need to figure that out too
 
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