I have a partial solution to your excessive cable length. FOund a 92 mustang in the junkyard with a 5 speed still in it. Going back tomorrow to grab the transmission. However. The cable should route out the firewall and over and loop the drivers engine mount and then back to the mount on the transmission. guess they want the cable to have a long bend instead of a tight one. Once I get the trans out - I'll take a picture of the swivel bracket that mounts on the transmission further back from the clutch fork.
1992 LX Build thread!
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haven't been able to take pictures, but have a question. do you have the swivel post on your bellhousing? it should be just behind the clutch fork. I was running out of time pulling the gear box and I'll be busy this weekend, but if you only have the post sticking out on the bellhousing - then i guess we need to get the swivel piece. it's held on with a snap ring. didn't have that tool in my arsenal yesterday anyways, but if all you need is the piece that pins through that and accepts the cable - it went in my pocket yesterday.
I was able to grab the small piece that mounts to the sivel and accepts the cable.
I was able to grab the small piece that mounts to the sivel and accepts the cable.
looking back at the photos above - looks like you do have the swivel piece mounted on the bellhousing. cant see if it has the piece attached to the clutchfork - but I know that i acquired the piece that mounts to the bottom hole and attaches to the cable. It's a 3 piece deal - a pin, the bracket and a cotter pin to lock it in.
Delray: yes i do have the swivel, the part i need is the piece in the first picture, and seen mounted at the bottom of the 4th picture. i also need the pin and needle, but those can be sourced easily or replaced with a nut and bolt.
Dogbone Cable Upgrade on 2.3L Mustang - Ford Mustang Forums
Dogbone Cable Upgrade on 2.3L Mustang - Ford Mustang Forums
realtripp
New Member
I looked at that stainless one on the other site and I think I will make a few up someday (I am a machinist).
thanks for the link.
thanks for the link.
And after reading your post again I'm pretty damn sure you ha e what I need Delray
Yep. I got what you need. bracket, pin and needle. PM me your address and I can have it on it's way in tomorrow's mail.
Funny thing is that on the link you posted above - my small dog bone cable broke a few years ago and i did the same thing with the bolt. i did rob the dog bone that was on the junkyard car - just to have - but i think i'll stay with my bolt - been working really good. I'd suggest this mod as my cable snapped on me in rush hour bumper to bumper traffic...forcing me to get off the highway and have a few cold ones at my favorite bar while traffic died down.....driving home was fun - only had to restart the motor once - hit all the lights green except one.
thanks again Delray!
now im looking for the relays i need to repair the IRCM. i found one seller online that carries them, but they require a miminum order and minimum shipping, and dont want to have to spend $30 to get a $3 part. just a little aggravating. so does anyone know of anywhere else that may have them? the part is below
Bosch 0332014162
now im looking for the relays i need to repair the IRCM. i found one seller online that carries them, but they require a miminum order and minimum shipping, and dont want to have to spend $30 to get a $3 part. just a little aggravating. so does anyone know of anywhere else that may have them? the part is below
Bosch 0332014162
have no fear.
sending these with your care package:
these are OEM ford 40 amp relays. looks like you may have to trim the edges down some of the conncetor blades to solder them to the module but that shouldn't be too difficult with some tin snips .
well, been crazy busy lately and havent had much time to work on her. but we tested the IRCM and are replacing the realy now, thanks again Delray. i got the linkage hooked up as well, just having an issue with a mushy clutch feel. also got the sensor spliced back into the system. but sometime between starting the project and today, the starter went out. it seemed to try to start the first time we tried it, but then just the click. pulled it off the bellhousing, and no spin even. just the click. so all thats left to do is:
hook up the reverse/brake lights, connect IRCM when i get it back, replace starter, and replace front struts. also hoping the Taurus fan will eliminate my AC problem
hook up the reverse/brake lights, connect IRCM when i get it back, replace starter, and replace front struts. also hoping the Taurus fan will eliminate my AC problem
well, been crazy busy lately and havent had much time to work on her. but we tested the IRCM and are replacing the realy now, thanks again Delray. i got the linkage hooked up as well, just having an issue with a mushy clutch feel. also got the sensor spliced back into the system. but sometime between starting the project and today, the starter went out. it seemed to try to start the first time we tried it, but then just the click. pulled it off the bellhousing, and no spin even. just the click. so all thats left to do is:
hook up the reverse/brake lights, connect IRCM when i get it back, replace starter, and replace front struts. also hoping the Taurus fan will eliminate my AC problem
Looks like you are getting there....
Damn starter......always something.
I may make a suggestion on the starter that you might like.
They will rape you for the new starter for the 91-93 starter because it has the solenoid on the starter like old school Dodge and Chevy's. They work fine until they get older and the heat gets into them. Up till 89 (not sure on 1990) on the 2.3 - they had the old school starter where the solenoid is on the fender and just the motor on the starter. funny thing is on the newer mustangs - you will see tht they still have the same solenoid on the drivers inner fender by the battery. Its the same one as they used on my '88. the only difference is that they run the main power wire on the full battery positive lug and have a small chaser wire that connects to the switched side of the solenoid and piggy backs along the power wire down to the starter and then connects to the solenoid on the starter. Like I said - its a double solenoid system that isn't needed. The fender solenoid is the same as the one for the 88 where the main power os on the other big lug and a single big wire runs to the starter only.
Autozone wants a small fortune for the newer starter (like 150 bucks) and less than 50 for the older one). My starter went out in my 93 late one night and I needed it to get to work in the morning - so I grabbed the starter out of my 88 vert and bolted it in. left the small wire loose and not connected and hooked up the main wire to the starter and swapped the main lead on the fender solenoid to the big lug that the other small wire was hooked up to.
I managed to find a almost brand new starter in the yard later for 15 bucks - still clean and had the stickers on it. Grabbed it and have been enjoying it ever since.
To me - it's a better application all the way around seeing that it's cheaper to replace and a much better design - especially since the exhaust is near the starter. Plus all the wiring is basically there - unhook the small wire at both ends and hook up the big wire to where the small one went on the fender solenoid. I also like the fact that I don't have a live main wire loose all the way down to the starter all the time.
just a suggetion!
thanks! i actually ordered one off of Amazon lastnight. brand new, not reman shipped for $85, and i have $30 in giftcards so it worked out well. now ive run into an issue on my girlfriends Mustang- did i mention she drivesd a 1992 2.3 LX as well? 
but noticed the AC had been squeaking, than yesterday the AC belt sheared right off. replaced the belt, along with some other little work, and noticed the squeaking is coming from the compressor clutch locking up. seems like the bearings are most likely worn out. deal is, she cant spend the coin on a new clutch, and im not going to fork it out right now either, and it was 101 degrees today. and its barely May. is it possible to just replace the bearing?
but noticed the AC had been squeaking, than yesterday the AC belt sheared right off. replaced the belt, along with some other little work, and noticed the squeaking is coming from the compressor clutch locking up. seems like the bearings are most likely worn out. deal is, she cant spend the coin on a new clutch, and im not going to fork it out right now either, and it was 101 degrees today. and its barely May. is it possible to just replace the bearing?
Question: I assume with a/c not engaged the belt is fine and makes no noise. I assume the squeak shows up after the a/c is engaged? If so, is it immediately or does it take a few minutes and the compressor locks up?
If that is the case - then the problem lies in the lack of air flow accross the condenser (hint: need the bigger fan). I assume it's converted to 134a and the heat is building up and the fan isn't cooling the condenser enough and what happens is that the pressure builds up too high on the high side and locks the compressor up resulting in the belt squal and eventual breakage.
I know from personal experience. I control my fan manually and if I don't turn it on when I turn on the a/c the the compressor will run for a few minutes then lock up. I have to shut the a/c off immediately and then run the fan for about 30 seconds and then turn on a/c and all is fine.
If it is the bearing and makes noise all the time....it can be replaced - but I'll warn you - it is a major PITA to do in car. I had to replace the clutch on mine and kept it on the car (at the time it still had R-12 on the system and I didn't want to pull it off or convert. The issue is that you remove the nut on the front of the compressor and there is a snap ring in the back of tht housing that needs to come out - not difficut if the compressor is out of the car - but not fun still in the car - plus getting it back in afterwards is fun too! But it is do-able - just really...really...really not fun. after the clutch part is off - I think it's three bolts that pull off the pulley system.
I just hope your issue is the 1st one - tht it works ok for a few minutes then locks up - because all it needs is the bigger fan to solve the issue.
yup, its the first one. i didnt think over-heat would cause a lock-up. it will run fine for a few minutes, then bamb, lockup and squeal. time to order her a Taurus fan to match the one on my car i guess
EDIT: just realized shes running her stock alternator. i know its not ideal, but will the stock alternator run a Taurus fan? stock stereo, etc. i dont think the Taurus pulls as much as the Mark VIII
Yep - you would be suprised how much pressure will build up on the high side without the fan - i watched my high side gauge hit almost 600 once with the air fan not going. Once it gets near that pressure the compressor just cant force it anymore and that causes the lock up and eventual belt squeal and breakage.
As for the alt, it'll probably handle the load - but you might be in the red zone - especially if it's at night and raining. The alt will probably last awhile but you will be loading it near it's capacity and eventually it will fail - but you probably can get a few months or so on it. I would be planning on the bigger alt conversion for the future. If you cant find a cheap one around there - let me know... I find a decent one in the yards every month or so and they sell them for 20 bucks with a 30 day warranty. I could snag one for ya - just dont know if the shipping would be worth it. You definitely need the bigger fan - especially down south - your a/c cold air will hit 40 degrees on the recirculation selection
Now that I think about it I was starting to charge it when it started to squeal and the pressure went way above safe. And I will plan on the new alt for her, I paid somewhere near $110 for mine if I remember correct. I'm gonna go ahead and order her fan. The Taurus fan should be enough, correct me if I'm wrong. I don't want to go the Mark VIII route on hers
Taurus fan should work good. it's close in flow to the Mark VIII fan - probably will be fine...but you know me...i like overkill for me .... lol.
I'll find out how much a 3G weight is - i know that shipping USPS on a ranger header thats around 15 lbs is 15 to 20 bucks. Can't be much more than that.....Like I said - i run accross almost new ones in the yard for 20 bucks every so often - so if i spy one that looks good and you are interested in it - looks like we can get you one for under 50 bucks. wont make it to the yard this weekend but next weekend i will. I just scored one tht looks brand new that I'm gonna wire into my 69 Charger in the next few weeks.
I'll find out how much a 3G weight is - i know that shipping USPS on a ranger header thats around 15 lbs is 15 to 20 bucks. Can't be much more than that.....Like I said - i run accross almost new ones in the yard for 20 bucks every so often - so if i spy one that looks good and you are interested in it - looks like we can get you one for under 50 bucks. wont make it to the yard this weekend but next weekend i will. I just scored one tht looks brand new that I'm gonna wire into my 69 Charger in the next few weeks.
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