I think it has to do with surface area. Cone filters are supposed to flow more CFM because the air has more ways to get through the filter. Putting a 4” flat panel filter in there would probably be like using a push mower air filter & be a big restriction. That’s just my opinion. Hope that didn’t come across as being a smart a**.
90stang5speed Rear Mounted Turbo Project Thread
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I would keep it inside. Yah most guys don't run a 800rwhp car in the rain, but hey @ least you could.
I do know of one application where the air filter would suck in water, and kill the MAF , and car would die. It was from direct tire/water spray. Remember thier is a lot of sucky-sucky going on with the turbo. Our tracks here are hideously dusty and dirty and I wouldn't trade a few tenth's for a toasted/motor/turbo.
Yeah I think the filter box is going to be a good thing even if it looks like something that that shoulod be under the hood of an International semi truck. I was talking to my import buddy with the VR4 about reversion & he sent me this link.
Tuning the LET - Exhaust
Its a pretty good write up I think. I wonder how hard it would be to make a peak hold gauge to measure exhaust back pressure. It would be interesting to compare peak back pressure to peak boost pressure. It seems that it would give some insight to if I need a bigger AR housing on the exhaust side.
Tuning the LET - Exhaust
Its a pretty good write up I think. I wonder how hard it would be to make a peak hold gauge to measure exhaust back pressure. It would be interesting to compare peak back pressure to peak boost pressure. It seems that it would give some insight to if I need a bigger AR housing on the exhaust side.
I like the article but it needs to be read carefully, most only applying to a front mount set up. Some of the info does apply.
2 to 1 was what we would shoot for on boost vs. back pressure.
I can simplify the a/r thing.
I look @ the a/r like a camshaft in an engine, you are picking the range of operation. If you want boost sooner a smaller a/r , and larger a/r for more top end. You will scarafise so top end power with the smaller a/r.
I looked @ the LS1 forum yesterday. What a mistake. There were guys that wanted to take the SAME turbo and run it in a front mount, then a rear mount set up and compare.
No correct rear mount unit would work well in a front mount, and the front mount would be to big the back. The farther back you go, the smaller the compressor and a/r you need. Move it forward and you need to get bigger.
You will win this battle because you are increasing the efficiency and making more with less.
All rear mount turbo’s I used were custom, hybrid units best suited for the rear mount. The key is making more power with less boost.
If you need to ram 30-50 psi in the motor, most of the time that will be out of the compressor maps of your unit, it will add heat by working the turbo to hard and hurt efficiency. I have seen more boost with little or no HP improvement when outside the map.
Buy a bigger turbo and run lower boost.
Rear mount is way different than front mount set up.
The key thing on the 90stang5spd build is the hedders and pipe are wrapped. Thermal expansion is what spools the turbo. If you were to run stock manfolds, you would see boost quicker when the engine is cold . The hedders un wrapped would allow gobs of heat out of them and kill the thermal expansion on you set up. Your engine combination may benefit from the hedders but not so much on the rear mount turbo.
Most guys buy the hedders first so we would not make a big deal if you had them, but would not recommend the either. I sure pissed of many aftermarket companies we talked to.
Nope, we don’t need hedders, custom cams, stock works great, no special intakes, and so on.
Even the new SVO has the turbo's away from the motor. It is starting to happen.
Most guys buy the hedders first so we would not make a big deal if you had them, but would not recommend the either. I sure pissed of many aftermarket companies we talked to.
Nope, we don’t need hedders, custom cams, stock works great, no special intakes, and so on.
Even the new SVO has the turbo's away from the motor. It is starting to happen.
Loftus,
If 2 to 1 back pressure to boost is the optimum setup, how & where do you measure the back pressure? I was thinking that I could use a cylinder compression tester & adapt it to be a peak hold back pressure gauge. I was thinking that if I drilled & welded a bung into the exhaust right before the turbo, it would give an idea of if I need to do anything with the AR of the exhaust housing.
If 2 to 1 back pressure to boost is the optimum setup, how & where do you measure the back pressure? I was thinking that I could use a cylinder compression tester & adapt it to be a peak hold back pressure gauge. I was thinking that if I drilled & welded a bung into the exhaust right before the turbo, it would give an idea of if I need to do anything with the AR of the exhaust housing.
not sure
Anywhere between the manfold/hedder and turbo,the pressure will be equal.
Run it first, and like the rocker arms , cam , manifolds ,cryo bar on intercooler only mess with it IF there is a problem or poor performance.
The 2 to 1 thing was used to determine the correct combinations for the bolt on kit where hundreds of kits would be massed produced, and had a "stock"
motor and combinations of parts.
Anywhere between the manfold/hedder and turbo,the pressure will be equal.
Run it first, and like the rocker arms , cam , manifolds ,cryo bar on intercooler only mess with it IF there is a problem or poor performance.
The 2 to 1 thing was used to determine the correct combinations for the bolt on kit where hundreds of kits would be massed produced, and had a "stock"
motor and combinations of parts.
Agent 47
It was these neat side window/scoop deals from agent 47.
Yours are done so it was for the other kids to see.
@ the end I noticed they are sn95 and 05 and newer.
It was these neat side window/scoop deals from agent 47.
Yours are done so it was for the other kids to see.
@ the end I noticed they are sn95 and 05 and newer.
bentley429isBAC
10 Year Member
I was able to get a little work done on the Scatter Shield / Heat Extractor. The lower section of the Scatter Shield is only tacked in Right now. I put a gromet around the oil feed line & relocated the oil return line with a gromet for that as well. The Heat Extractor fan isn't wired in yet & the ducting needs to be sealed up but, I wanted to get some pics up. Im going to try to get the tune up loaded and get a sound clip posted soon.
Here is the fan mounted to the Scatter Shield
View attachment scattershieldwithheatex.jpg
Here is the Heat Extractor duct all welded up.
View attachment heatextractorductwelded.jpg
Here is the lower section of the Scatter Shield tacked into place. You can also see the gromets for the oil feed & return lines.
View attachment scattershieldlowerssect.jpg
And Here is the Heat Extractor duct mounted to the Scatter Shield.
View attachment heatextractorfanducting.jpg
Here is the fan mounted to the Scatter Shield
View attachment scattershieldwithheatex.jpg
Here is the Heat Extractor duct all welded up.
View attachment heatextractorductwelded.jpg
Here is the lower section of the Scatter Shield tacked into place. You can also see the gromets for the oil feed & return lines.
View attachment scattershieldlowerssect.jpg
And Here is the Heat Extractor duct mounted to the Scatter Shield.
View attachment heatextractorfanducting.jpg
This may be true, but I also see it as, the air is going to be sucked down into a 2 1/2" tube anyways, the only thing that changes is where its being filtered at, it may not work like that though, im not sure..
Idle Rev & 2 Step
I was able to get a short clip of the idle, rev & 2 step. I have a lot of tuning to do yet but the 2 step is working & so is the BOV.
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
I was able to get a short clip of the idle, rev & 2 step. I have a lot of tuning to do yet but the 2 step is working & so is the BOV.
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
Cobra912
Active Member
Smells lean lol. I do have a lean tip in issue that I need to work on. It idles between 14.7 -15.6 but, when I snap the throttle, it will lean out and pop through the intake. When I had a vac gauge hooked to the intake before, it had 14 in/hg. My boost controller is only showing 10 to 11 so I might need to check for leaks. My other idea is that the enrichment based on the rate of change in the TPS might need to be tweeked a little.
I have a question, and forgive me for asking if someone has already asked but,....How hot do you s'pose the top to your box will get?
I'm thinkin' melt the hell out of plastic hot.
Granted, running the fan will force the heat out rather than let it rise, but what happens after you turn the fan off? I'm thinking that (here I go thinking again) you're gonna have to run that fan for about 5-10 minutes after ea. run to blow the heat soak out of that turbo
I'm thinkin' melt the hell out of plastic hot.
Granted, running the fan will force the heat out rather than let it rise, but what happens after you turn the fan off? I'm thinking that (here I go thinking again) you're gonna have to run that fan for about 5-10 minutes after ea. run to blow the heat soak out of that turbo
Thanks Mike. My import buddy just emailed me with the same thought. I will have to keep an eye on that. maybe a fan controller like what some people use for their rad. fan might be something to look into. I could wire it to turn on when the box reaches X temp and stay on after the car is off until X temp is reached & the fan could then turn off and not melt. might need a jump start after that though.
sounds good but will sound alot better with a tune. i was at a car show it PA they had a loud exhaust comp and the 2 steps were crazy, they had 2ft flames and were popping so loud they set off car alarms 40ft away.
how much boost are you going to run?
how much boost are you going to run?
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