I have a 1965 that was an original 3-speed manual car that the previous ower has converted over to a t-5. It looks as though he has used the original bellhousing and clutch fork. I want to convert this over to a hyd clutch. Do I need to change out the a late model mustang bellhousing and clutch fork or is there a kit made to keep the original?
z-bar to Hyd clutch
- Thread starter tt400
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There is no inherent reason you current setup couldn't be driven by your wife. There's probably something wrong with it.
Coupla years ago I repaired the pedal bracket in a 69 428 Cobra Jet. Clutch was so bad I nearly had to use both feet to push it in to move the car.
Pedal pivots in the bracket were shot, and the clutch pedal pivot shaft was trashed.
I installed a new shaft, repaired bracket, and a Scott Drake roller bearing conversion kit. With no change to the Z-bar or clutch, it was then easy enough that a 12-year-old girl could have easily pressed and held the clutch in. Total cost in parts, about $60.
Coupla years ago I repaired the pedal bracket in a 69 428 Cobra Jet. Clutch was so bad I nearly had to use both feet to push it in to move the car.
Pedal pivots in the bracket were shot, and the clutch pedal pivot shaft was trashed.
I installed a new shaft, repaired bracket, and a Scott Drake roller bearing conversion kit. With no change to the Z-bar or clutch, it was then easy enough that a 12-year-old girl could have easily pressed and held the clutch in. Total cost in parts, about $60.
Headers would be unlikely to interfere with your clutch, everybody I knew in the 70's had headers and 4-speeds, including me. Power steering would have zero interference with your clutch. There has to be another reason to spend all that money on a hydraulic clutch.
If your problem is the pedal bracket situation I described, even a hydraulic clutch would work like crap until that's fixed. Fix the problem first. Then decide if a modification is needed.
If your problem is the pedal bracket situation I described, even a hydraulic clutch would work like crap until that's fixed. Fix the problem first. Then decide if a modification is needed.
PoppyMod
Member
Hi,
As commented by 2+2GT, Why change? put the $300, into some other improvement prospect. When maintained, the "Z" bar works just fine. It's a simple design, that's not prone "leaks" and seal replacement.
horseballz
10 Year Member
He is likely planning/referring to Borgeson power steering, although, if car is 64-1/2 to 66, Borgeson now offers a modified Z-Bar for use with their power steering boxes. For what it's worth, I really like my hydraulic clutch and prefer hydraulics to mechanical any day.
My $.02,
Gene
My $.02,
Gene
65fastbackresto
Active Member
I used Modern Driveline for my hydraulic setup
Call Bruce at 408-394-3944. He has a hydraulic cylinder relocation kit he can sell you (along with everything else) that`ll make your pedal where a 4 year old kid could push it down. It`s also mounted to the right side of the master cylinder which means it will never be in the way of further upgrades.
My car was pretty hard to drive before I did this same setup, now its fun.
Call Bruce at 408-394-3944. He has a hydraulic cylinder relocation kit he can sell you (along with everything else) that`ll make your pedal where a 4 year old kid could push it down. It`s also mounted to the right side of the master cylinder which means it will never be in the way of further upgrades.
My car was pretty hard to drive before I did this same setup, now its fun.
PoppyMod
Member
Yes, the hydraulic systems are very smooth as I have this system in my Etype.
If it it's true he's changing other components that may interfere with the traditional "Z" bar, then, a hydraulic system may be the way to go.
Bruce has a very nice hydraulic system. It was still in development when I made the conversion in 2009.
Happy Trails!
65fastbackresto
Active Member
He perfected it finally.
I had one of Bruce`s earlier setups and it was a pretty hard pedal, but he moved the hydraulic cylinder over to where its mounted directly under where the wiring harness goes thru the firewall about where all the brakelines are tied together. It`s pretty sweet now. I can snap some pics if yall wanna see it.
I had one of Bruce`s earlier setups and it was a pretty hard pedal, but he moved the hydraulic cylinder over to where its mounted directly under where the wiring harness goes thru the firewall about where all the brakelines are tied together. It`s pretty sweet now. I can snap some pics if yall wanna see it.
PoppyMod
Member
Hi,
I run a "Z" system, as well. So, what about the hydraulic setup, do you not like?
I have not seen a huge improvement. the setup is adjusted properly and has run flawless for the past 2 1/2 years. however the pros dont out weigh the possible cons. I run a toploader and the release piston mounts to the trans inside the bellhousing. any leak in there will require a lot of labor to fix. however I am ready to ditch the hyd for my old Z set if it ever happens. That is my only real complaint. also i am still a little annoyed with myself that i caved into this which required drilling holes in my virgin firewall to mount this thing.
65fastbackresto
Active Member
PoppyMod
Member
Hi,
I will offer, your definitive answer will com form Bruce @ ModernDriveline Give him the details. I did the conversion, but, chose to stick with Z bar. I don't recall a need to change hardware, when I discussed Hyd option.
