I've never trusted a mag base anything. If I have to use a mag base dial indicator, I'll typically repeat the measurement several times before I'm confident with it. I always prefer a clamp-base, which is basically what you've done there.
That's clever. I hope it works!
I've never trusted a mag base anything. If I have to use a mag base dial indicator, I'll typically repeat the measurement several times before I'm confident with it. I always prefer a clamp-base, which is basically what you've done there.
I had the same problem with the last one I stabbed Lars. Sorry I didn't catch your post sooner. What I gathered was happening in my case was the disc alignment tool wasn't getting the disc perfectly centered and the input shaft wouldn't engage both the pilot bearing and the clutch disc. So what I did was worked the trans in until I could see the spline begin the engagement w/ the disc, then I wedged a board between the seat and clutch pedal to release the disc while I worked the input shaft into the pilot bearing. Went right in. Many, many foul words on that one. Lesson learned.
I had the same problem with the last one I stabbed Lars. Sorry I didn't catch your post sooner. What I gathered was happening in my case was the disc alignment tool wasn't getting the disc perfectly centered and the input shaft wouldn't engage both the pilot bearing and the clutch disc. So what I did was worked the trans in until I could see the spline begin the engagement w/ the disc, then I wedged a board between the seat and clutch pedal to release the disc while I worked the input shaft into the pilot bearing. Went right in. Many, many foul words on that one. Lesson learned.
Nice build! Whenever you're stabbing a transmission by yourself it always helps to take a pry bar down there with you. This way when the trans is almost all the way in, you can just pry the clutch fork forward slightly to get the tranny to go that final 1/2". I was fighting vibration problems with a 3550 once and I must have pulled it out and reinstalled that trans at least 4 times by myself. I used a nice sized floor jack each time and it was a pretty smooth operation. Of course, I was using a stock type aluminum bellhousing, I have no experience with the steel bells.
Great job so far! And I LOVE your shop...I will use your shop pics as inspiration to build my own like that some day! lol
Uh yeah I think that pans gonna rub with the shifting of the engine/transmission. I'd fashion some sort of rubber bushing that wont make vibration but will keep it from rubbing a hole. Maybe even a piece of rubber tubing cut long ways. Or shave some of the K member away. Anyway, good to see you're making progress.
Stock bells are a lot easier to install. I can't help but wonder if it was worth it to bother with this one or not. Hopefully I'll never need it. Thanks for the compliment. It's nice not laying on my back in gravel, I'd done that before and I never want to do it again.
We'll see, depends on which way the engine twists. I have no play at all with the motor mounts. Only thing I could possibly do is shim the trans tail shaft up a bit to get it away from it, drop the K member and grind on it, or buy a tube K member. However I have spent about as much as I want to on this project. I just want to get the engine fired and drive it. Been waiting for that since February when I paid for the engine.
Also just ordered a MM clutch quadrant, FWA, and cable. Fortunately the parts pile for the car is getting smaller. Not looking forward to installing the quadrant though. I did it a few years ago on my 89 and all I remember about it is how hard it was to do.
I've been real fortunate on both foxbodies I've owned this has already been done. But I have heard its a damn nightmare. If you have a short friend with small hands make him do it.
putting in a new quadrant isn't too bad. Taking the little "paw" off is the gripe of it all, getting that spring to let go of the plastic is a royal PITA!
Did Woody hook you up with that pan along with the engine, or did you buy it separately?