- Mar 15, 2011
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well just replaced the fan on hers, and same issue- radiatir fan does not come on at all. so i have another damn IRCM or controller to track down and fix/replace
well after a long and very busy summer, ive got some more work done. i picked up a 2001 Cummins and have been having fun with that recently.but
i tore apart the IRCM, and tested all the components. the Relay tested good, but found what seemed like a failure farther down the line in the controller. so i bought a new IRCM and installed it, along with a new starter and cut out the old transmission lines today. next, and hopefully last up is to replace the front struts. and does anyone know if i will need to remove the wheels to do so?
and after replacing the IRCM, i turned the air on, and the fan did not kick on, so im not sure if it fixed the issue yet.
If you can get the entire rotating assembly instead of just the pistons on the cheap do it. The turbo rotating assembly has beefier rod journals that can handle more stress. It will all bolt right into a non turbo block although on a non turbo block you need to drill the oil return, the spot on the block is allready there. Thats a great deal on the big valve head, I rarely see them go less than 500.
hey glad to see you are back....been busy myself - getting ready to paint my stang
wow, congrats man! yeah, between the new truck and a promotion in the Guard that has been keeping me pretty busy i just havent had time. also: the 105ish degrees for the last 2 months doesnt help motivate me either
i HEAR YA ON THAT!!!!
Put my '93 in Black primer a month ago, found out that spraying in the hot afternoon causes problems with the sprayer. Hoping to paint the car over the holiday weekend. Still trying to decided on color - down to British Racing Green or a Darker Blue. Leaning on the green at the moment.
if it's a lifter ticking/rattle noise - it'll go away with a little run time, lifter has drained and will pump up eventually - sometimes it'll take a few miles to get it gone - just be easy on the RPMs.
Not sure on adjustment of pedal heights. i know the clutch and brake are even on mine
use a FWA.The 5.0 cable isnt compatible with the 2.3 linkage. been there and done that with my last 2.3 t5 swap. I ended up using a stock 2.3 cable, FWA, and triple hook quad. I could have gotten away without the FWA, but it came with the quadrant so I used it to fine tune my pedal.
Temp gauge sending unit is located on the drivers side back of the block - right near the oil sending unit. it is very possible you knocked it off while doing the swap - as it is right there near the clutch stuff.
As for speedo- number of things it could be - but gear should e-clip on end of cable and slide in and bolt down smooth. I would think that the cable should be the same from auto to manual - i know gears are different.
Yes - the sending unit in the heater is for the fan - the one in the block is gauge only. check to see if its connected. Other thing is when you replaced it - did you get the sending unit for gauge or fan controller or idiot light. if connected and its an idiot light or fan - it'll read cold till it's hot (or hot enough to turn on fan) and then peg the gauge. You can check gauge movement by grounding wire and turning key on. gauge should move instantly. if so, then you know the sending unit is bad or the wrong one.