So Confused On Trick Flow Heads?

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I am sorry I read through most of the thread and have read your questions but I must have missed this. Are you you currently working with a stock short block or are you starting from scratch?
yup stock pistons and everything. so greg with the stock pistons could i run the 185 with the 58cc chambers or will i run into piston to valve clearance issues with a decent sized cam?
 
It is all about duration when it comes to piston to valve clearance. Lift is NOT the issue. You could run .700 lift with a 185 head with stock pistons if the duration at .050 is 220* or less. (assuming a 114*LSA) The cylinder head combustion chamber volume has ZERO effect on PTV clearance, only on compression.
 
It is all about duration when it comes to piston to valve clearance. Lift is NOT the issue. You could run .700 lift with a 185 head with stock pistons if the duration at .050 is 220* or less. (assuming a 114*LSA) The cylinder head combustion chamber volume has ZERO effect on PTV clearance, only on compression.

I agree with the first part but not the second. You mill a head to reduce chamber volume, which effectively brings the valves closer to the piston, at least to some extent.
 
You are correct, there are a couple different families of heads. You have the F.A.C. head now that have cnc'd chambers available in the 170cc or the 190cc runners. The 170cc head as 2 chambers available 58cc which will require pistons or the good old 61cc that will work on any stock short block up to .540" lift and of course that depends on the duration of the cam. The 190cc head only comes in the 64cc chamber and the dual spring (.600" lift spring). The F.A.C. heads are also available in the Street or the Track Heat versions. The Street heads still have the emissions ports, 3/8" rockers studs and they come with the single spring good up to .540" lift. The Track Heat heads DO NOT have the emissions ports, they have 7/16 rocker studs and they come with the dual spring good up to .600" lift.

The CNC'd family of heads you have the 185 and 205cc heads. They CNC'd heads come in different versions as well. To start off the list you have the Street ported 185cc that is available in the 58cc (once again requires pistons) or the 64cc chamber. Both heads come with the dual springs.

Then last but not least you get into the Race CNC'd heads which come in the 185 and 205cc runner sizes. The 185cc head only comes in the 64cc chamber and the 205cc head only comes with a 65cc chamber.

All of the cnc'd heads we offer come with the 7/16 studs and the dual springs.


I hope this clears up the offerings that are available in the Twisted Wedge line up.

so there is no way i can get the 185 with the 58cc chambers? i want to get the most compression from my stock bottom end
 
so there is no way i can get the 185 with the 58cc chambers? i want to get the most compression from my stock bottom end

That's why you get them from a one-stop-shop that can set you up with exactly what you need. TEA milled my 205s from 65 to 61 cc. Other places can do this too. Or, you can buy them and have a local machine shop mill them for you, but you'll probably end up having more money in that.

Don't know for sure but couldn't you just mill them down to 58cc? but I think that hurts the overall airflow a little though...(not totally sure my internet wisdom is not the greatest).

Depends on the head, the valve job, and how much you have to cut off the head to get the CC that you want. Milling my 205s did not have any negative affect on advertised flow numbers. Mine actually flowed a few CFM higher than advertised, at least on TEA's flow bench. I bet Rick or Gregg could offer more info on that.
 
I prefer to have a small chamber and then as much dish as I need to give me proper compression, but it also depends on the chamber shape and design (closed or open, heart, etc) I aslo prefer a Reverse Dome piston over a dish piston, modulars fords is the only area this changes..lol

A flat top and small cc chamber cylinder head will yield the BEST results, IMO. You maintain proper quench and the the flame travels in the complete area across the piston so you maintain complete combustion.
 
I prefer to have a small chamber and then as much dish as I need to give me proper compression, but it also depends on the chamber shape and design (closed or open, heart, etc)

I have heard this before and I find the logic behind it pretty interesting. I'd love to see a dyno test of identical motors, one with a dish piston and small chamber and the other with a large chamber and a flat top or even domed pistons, both resulting in the same CR.
 
yup stock pistons and everything. so greg with the stock pistons could i run the 185 with the 58cc chambers or will i run into piston to valve clearance issues with a decent sized cam?
With the 58cc head on a stock piston using a decent sized cam, yes you will have PTV issues. Your best bet is to stock with at least a 61cc chamber. If you would like to keep the compression up a bit talk to Fox Lake or total Engine Airflow and have the 185cc heads milled to the 61cc chamber.
 
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You won't come anywhere close to 330-350rwhp with GT40 heads, intake and cam.

Might crack 300rwhp if you're lucky....real lucky.
i know old thread but searching for some stuff today.

What about maybe not 330-350 rwhp but what about same setup and gt 40 or gt 40p heads vs TF 170s and the gt 40 heads having much more torque? I'll say this 75 mm maf, 70 tb, 24 lb injectors. Only difference is the afore mentioned heads between the same setup?
 
Yes you can get 330 rwhp with the gt 40 set up. If you cant then you are a f'n moron and can't tune and build your crap right. A good 306 with that will make easy. But whatever, I just build crap like this all the time for people and dyno tune them. So I have no idea huh. A little porting and time and yes you can. What the hell do you think Ford's X302 crate motor is?

But if you wdont want to do that the Trick Flow 170's and Trick flow track heat intake and the cam you talked about will do that for you just fine. There is a lot that goes into building a motor that people on here dont realize. yeah you can throw parts together and spend stupid amounts of money that you really dont need. Or you can take your time do your research and and the math to figure out your compression ratios and everything and have a good motor. Build what is going to make you happy and dont let other people tell you otherwise.

You can PM me if you want more info bro. I will gladly tell you a few H/C/I setups that will work for you and you can choose what you like.

If you want the best set up, In my opinion if you have a stock bottom end is AFR 185's and a Trick Flow stage 1 cam with the Trick Flow track heat intake, 24 lb injectors and mass air with a good tune.
dang looks like you were last seen 2015 I'd certainly like to pick your brain because I certain did back in 05 what you are saying here not to do and I'd love some advice for in the future with my current setup.