My whole suspension was 1500 for all Upr stuff eibach spring coilovers in front viking spring coilovers in the back with strange struts and shocks fully adjustable rear upper and lowers
Progress Thread Almost ready for the road, Need input for parts!
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That's awesome that you found your old high school car and there is no $ amount you can put on sentimental possessions. Going on this journey to rebuild the vehicle to better than ever condition will only make it sweeter. I have no input on suspension as I am too building a car and haven't crossed that bridge yet so I'll be watching and learning with what you guys figure out.
God bless you and thank you and your family for your service. Below is something that I read and has stuck with me when I was planning service for my Father at the Washington State Veterans Cemetary (USMC Vietnam Vet).
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Thanks to all that gave some, thanks to some that gave all!
God bless you and thank you and your family for your service. Below is something that I read and has stuck with me when I was planning service for my Father at the Washington State Veterans Cemetary (USMC Vietnam Vet).
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Thanks to all that gave some, thanks to some that gave all!
I think I have just about made up my mind.... I think I'm going to sacrifice some on the 60 ft times and not make the car's suspension so geared towards drag, with the amount of Hp this motor showed at the dyno shop along with the rear end and gears I have put in it I think it will perform nicely. With that said, I am looking at going with the Strange adjustable shocks and struts, a set of upper and lower control arms in the rear, and these for racing springs,Ford Racing M-5300-C, I know its only 3/4 in the front and 1/2 in the rear but the old one are worn out and I am not going to run 4 cyc shocks just for another 10th in the 60 ft. I think with this set up when I throw my other wheels and tires on I will be happy when I can still corner and pull a good lat G with out spinning...... When I get the body back and start mounting all these parts I will post new pics.
I have a set of ford c springs I can sell to you maybe they still have the isolators and they are in good shape I can pm you some pics this afternoon
Hey friend, just coming back to view this build thread - Agian, thanks so much for your contribution to all of us in this free country. I'm Airforce and sometimes feel that many folks back here are clueless of the many sacrifices that some make to keep this country free as we know of it.
It seems as if you've got a pretty good idea of where you're going with this car. One thing I would add, being that I have made the mistake before myself, is to truly assess what you really want this car to do for you and then stay true to that direction. Often we can spend so much unecessary money on these things and for the most part get NO real use or return for the expense.
Like said above: handling and drag is hard to achieve because one car needs to be loose and the other car needs to be stout or stiff. You probably want the best of both worlds but i'd focus on the main purpose of use otherwise you may just be disappointed on both forms of use.
Looking at the photos: I see diff pulleys and water pump on the motor. Did you go away from the underdrives pulleys UDP's? And What water pump did you finally use?
It should be a fun car to drive! I drove a friends 347 equipped notch and that thing was NUTS! on the street. IMO, on the street, handling would be premium with 400 plus ponies. These cars were just not the best designs for this getti-up.
Be safe.
Dwayne
It seems as if you've got a pretty good idea of where you're going with this car. One thing I would add, being that I have made the mistake before myself, is to truly assess what you really want this car to do for you and then stay true to that direction. Often we can spend so much unecessary money on these things and for the most part get NO real use or return for the expense.
Like said above: handling and drag is hard to achieve because one car needs to be loose and the other car needs to be stout or stiff. You probably want the best of both worlds but i'd focus on the main purpose of use otherwise you may just be disappointed on both forms of use.
Looking at the photos: I see diff pulleys and water pump on the motor. Did you go away from the underdrives pulleys UDP's? And What water pump did you finally use?
It should be a fun car to drive! I drove a friends 347 equipped notch and that thing was NUTS! on the street. IMO, on the street, handling would be premium with 400 plus ponies. These cars were just not the best designs for this getti-up.
Be safe.
Dwayne
The reason for the change in pulley is if you look in the pic of the motor in the back of the truck, it was on its way to the dyno guy to tune it so i had to come up with a set up to just run the water pump. best option was to run an old v belt set up, water pump is ford racings hi vol pump. Now it has the udp set up on it(got new pulleys because the sliver ones in those pics were worn out from 70k miles.....
Car is running driving, motor is in brake in period so no 1/4 mile passes yet. Tore back in go the motor, larger heads/more aggressive cam, went to 1 3/4 headers, also upped the jets on the carb and took the motor back to the motor dyno. 515hp 502 tq at the flywheel. Also dialed in the HGM Comp-u-shift computer, that unit is worth every penny if you have a plated race car. Makes driving on the street comfortable and lowers et's and 60ft times at the track. Amazing that you can lower and raise the trans PSI for each shift and also change shift points based on rpm or mph or both along with throttle %.
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